The Miharu koma Legend of Fukushima
The Miharu koma Legend of Fukushima
Overview
In this episode, John Daub travels to the quiet, mystical town of Miharu in Fukushima Prefecture, located on the highway between the sea and the mountains. The town is famous for a specific legend and a traditional craft: the Miharu koma (wooden spinning horse). John explores a local workshop filled with antiques and handmade charms, uncovering the history behind these wooden horses which were once featured on Japan's first New Year's postcard stamp.
The video delves into the legend of the Miharu koma, dating back to the 8th century involving Shogun Sakanoue no Tamuramaro and spiritual master Enchin. John explains the symbolism behind the black and white horses, representing fertility/child protection and longevity respectively. Beyond the craft, John reflects on the value of handmade goods in the countryside versus factory-made imports, and the necessity of having a car to access deep rural locations in Japan.
During his visit, John encounters a Spanish artisan living temporarily in Miharu to study local techniques for his work with the Fiesta de las Fallas in Valencia. This cultural exchange highlights the global interest in Japanese traditional crafts. The episode concludes with John meeting friends Mia and Shige, and reiterating his goal to obtain a Japanese driver's license to explore more off-the-beaten-path locations like this magical town.
Highlights
- 00:04 John introduces Miharu, Fukushima, and the famous legend he is about to share.
- 01:09 Description of the town's magical, mystical atmosphere on a cloudy November afternoon.
- 02:05 Inside the workshop: antiques, lanterns, and the 1954 New Year's postcard stamp featuring the horse.
- 03:21 John displays a Miharu koma and compares it to the Daruma doll.
- 04:11 Reading the legend of the 100 wooden horses carved by Enchin for Tamuramaro.
- 05:53 Explanation of the two colors: black for childbearing, white for longevity.
- 08:46 Staff demonstrates a traditional handmade dance mask available for purchase.
- 10:51 Discussion on the value of handmade crafts versus factory imports.
- 17:17 John explains why he needs a driver's license to access places like this.
- 23:24 Interview with a Spanish artisan studying in Miharu for the Fallas festival.
- 29:21 John reunites with friends Mia and Shige before signing off.
Timeline / Chapters
- 00:00 Introduction to Miharu, Fukushima
- 01:09 Arriving at the workshop and atmosphere
- 02:05 Exploring the antique-filled shop
- 03:21 Introducing the Miharu koma horse
- 04:11 The Legend of Miharu koma (Tamuramaro and Enchin)
- 05:53 Symbolism of black and white horses
- 08:46 Traditional dance masks and pricing
- 10:51 Value of handmade craftsmanship
- 15:27 Conversation with staff about family history
- 17:17 Reflection on rural travel and driving in Japan
- 19:50 Walking around town and viewing another shop
- 23:24 Meeting the Spanish artisan
- 27:55 Thoughts on cultural exchange and visas
- 29:21 Meeting friends Mia and Shige / Outro
Japan Travel Tips
- Transport: Rural areas like Miharu are difficult to access by train. John emphasizes that a car is necessary to reach deep, magical villages off the beaten path.
- JR Pass: The Japan Rail Pass is useful for major cities (like Takayama), but popular train-accessible spots are often overrun with tourists.
- Driving: Obtaining a Japanese driver's license is challenging but recommended for exploring the countryside safely and freely.
- Souvenirs: Handmade crafts like Miharu koma are affordable (e.g., 2000 yen for masks) considering the labor involved.
- Season: November offers crisp air and potentially early snow, adding to the mystical atmosphere of mountain towns.
- Shrines: Look for hilltop shrines in these towns; they are often power spots for praying for success, fertility, and longevity.
Japanese Language & Culture Notes
- Miharu koma (三春駒): A traditional wooden spinning horse toy from Miharu, Fukushima. It is a designated Traditional Craft of Japan.
- Nengajo (年賀状): New Year's postcards. The Miharu koma was featured on the first government-issued memorial stamp for these in 1954 (Showa 29).
- Daruma (だるま): A traditional Japanese doll modeled after Bodhidharma, symbolizing good luck and perseverance. John compares the wooden horses to these.
- Showa (昭和): The era name corresponding to the reign of Emperor Hirohito (1926–1989). Showa 29 is 1954.
- Onsen (温泉): Hot springs. John mentions hitting another onsen (number 13) soon.
- Super Chats: Donations made during live streams. John acknowledges viewers Tam and Jim for their support.
People
- John Daub: Host and creator of Only in Japan Go. He narrates the journey, explains the history, and interacts with locals.
- Staff: Unnamed workshop staff who demonstrate traditional dance masks and discuss the family history of the shop.
- Artisan (Spain): A craftsman from Valencia, Spain, staying in Miharu for a month to exchange techniques related to the Fiesta de las Fallas.
- Mia: John's friend who appears at the end of the video.
- Shige: John's friend from Akita living in Fukushima, appears at the end.
Key Takeaways
- Handmade Value: Rural Japan still produces high-quality handmade goods locally, contrasting with mass-produced imports. The price reflects the time and skill involved.
- Rural Access: To experience the "real" Japan away from tourist crowds, a car is often required. Train access usually leads to overcrowded spots.
- Cultural Legends: Local crafts often have deep historical roots and legends (like the Tamuramaro story) that add meaning to the objects.
- Global Exchange: Traditional Japanese crafts attract international artisans who come to study and exchange techniques.
Notable Quotes
- 01:09 "It's like a very magical, mystical feeling to this whole town. Everything is really old."
- 05:53 "People believe that it grants you victory, blesses with babies, and cures disease."
- 10:51 "We're used to paying a dollar or something. It's cheap but that doesn't take into account the actual time required to make it."
- 17:17 "All the great places that you can get by train are overrun with tourists... If you want to go someplace really deep, you need a car."
- 18:26 "You just stumble upon stuff as you're walking around or traveling around. And you stop and have a curious look around."
- 27:55 "There's a lot of people who want to come and live in Japan. It's just not... You need to have a visa and a purpose, a home, and a job."
Related Topics
- Rural Japan Travel
- Traditional Japanese Crafts
- Japanese Folklore and Legends
- Driving in Japan as a Foreigner
- Cultural Exchange Programs
Search Tags
#only-in-japan-go #fukushima #miharu #miharu-koma #traditional-crafts #japan-travel #rural-japan #driving-in-japan #folklore #onsen #japan-culture #handmade #artisan
Full Transcript
00:04 John Daub: Hello everybody. I'm in a really local area of Fukushima. This is on the highway from the sea to the mountains. This area is called Miharu. I'm not really sure myself, but I put a map in the description and it's famous for a legend. And this legend is something I'm going to teach you. It's quite famous here in Japan. It's so famous they put it on the first New Year's postcard stamp. Yeah, that's where I am. If this gives you any indication of how cool the history is here, I'm going to teach you.
01:09 John Daub: I love this town. It's so quiet here. The air is cool and crisp. It's a kind of a cloudy November afternoon. It was snowing a little bit earlier. It's like a very magical, mystical feeling to this whole town. Everything is really old. That's where we're going in. You can see also the workshop. We look through the window where they're making these Miharu koma (wooden spinning horses). A lot of cool stuff outside. Are you ready to go inside?
02:05 John Daub: Let's see if we can figure out the legend. The legend of Miharu koma. Look at all the antiques in here. This is so cool. Oh, there's a picture of the first postcard stamp used for the nengajo (New Year's postcards), in 1954, Showa 29. Look at the lights, the lanterns up there on the roof. Wow. Lots of antiques in here. Everything made of wood. Look at the hats up there. I've never seen hats like this.
03:21 John Daub: Oh my god. Look at all the dust caked on it. Wow. So I want to show you what a Miharu koma is. It looks like this. Okay. It's Miharu koma. And you know, you've heard about the legend of Daruma. And I made a video about this a couple of months ago in Takasaki, Gunma Prefecture. And the Daruma brings good luck. It's all made out of wood, just like these.
04:11 John Daub: Miharu koma they have a story. Here's the legend in English. Okay, I'm gonna read it for you. It was plastered, let's tape to the wall here. The legend of Miharu koma. Around the 8th century, a gang of bandits lived in Mount Otakine in the Fukushima area. Shogun Sakanoue no Tamuramaro wanted to suppress them. His spiritual master Enchin, who established Kiyomizu Temple in Kyoto, carved 100 wooden horses to wish Tamuramaro a safe victory. Tamuramaro left Kyoto with those horses in his armored chest, so he put these in his armor for protection.
05:01 John Daub: The battle began but his soldiers were exhausted from traversing the long distance and struggled hard. Then suddenly from somewhere unknown, 100 saddled horses appeared. Tamuramaro and his soldiers jumped on them and charged the bandits. As soon as they won the battle, all the horses disappeared. The very next day, a man of the local village found a wooden horse which appeared exhausted from battle. That's the horse from the battle that he had in his chest. He found out that it was carved by Enchin and they believed those wooden horses helped the victory. They copied the wooden horses and gave them to the local children as a charm. It brought miracles. Those children grew up healthy and strong and those who could not have a child would conceive. Wow, so it gave fertility to mothers to have babies. It protected people.
05:53 John Daub: This is the legend of Miharu koma. People believe that it grants you victory, blesses with babies, and cures disease. I could use one of these. Miharu koma comes in two colors. The black horse is for childbearing and nurturing. I don't need that one. The white horse is for longevity. I need that one. Miharu koma was also well known as being chosen for the first New Year's memorial stamp by the Japanese government. That's the legend of Miharu koma as it's written on a piece of paper printed on the wall. It's pretty deep. So all you people who want to have a baby should buy the black one and the white one is for longevity. I need to live a long, happy, prosperous life. Oh look at these antiques here. We're gonna meet one of the makers as well. Look at the dust caked on it. This is a real deal. The two colors here from the story: black and white, fertility, longevity, success. I guess you gotta keep them together.
08:46 Staff: It's interesting, right? This is a traditional dance. It's handmade. Very famous. It's a dance from a long time ago. You can stick your tongue out of that one. It's old style. These are 2000 yen. All handmade. For adults and for kids.
09:44 John Daub: Wow, a lot of famous people have been here. This is such a picturesque little town. There's a shrine up on the hill where you can go and pray for success and fertility, everything. This is kind of a power spot, I think. But it's really cool when you have a little performance put on without any planning like that. Just so it happened. You see the workshop. There's a fireplace here, which is cool.
10:51 John Daub: These are basically charms. They're all handmade. What's really special is they're all carved out of one block of wood. It makes it stronger. It makes it really special. It's all hand carved. He was telling us earlier. That's why it's all hand carved. When you think about that, it's not made in a factory somewhere. He makes them here. He just carves them and carves them. He's been carving them for years and years. We have products that are stuff that's still being made by hand here in the countryside by the people instead of stuff imported from another country that was made in a factory. When we take a look at this stuff, we probably think they're made in a factory somewhere. The reality is that these are all handmade. The value of it... We're used to paying a dollar or something. It's cheap but that doesn't take into account the actual time required to make it. This is really small but probably quite complicated to make. Yeah. You feeling me?
12:15 John Daub: Really cool. Look at the detail on this. It's really solid. This is a charm. White is for longevity. Long life. Black is for protection of children. That's the meaning. For babies, yeah. Fertility and babies. These are to protect babies and bring good luck. This is to protect your life for a long time. I like that. I sometimes take... I don't know what the value of stuff is anymore but it's all made from wood from this area. When you think about it, yeah. It's actually probably pretty cheap. Look at the different sizes too. They get bigger and bigger. I think I'm going to get one. I'm so mesmerized with these. I love the antiques as well. Look at these old phones. Do they still work? Wow, it's like made out of pure metal. That can't be cheap. They really made phones back then. Everything these days is made out of plastic. You find stuff that's made out of wood and glass and metal. The way it's supposed to be. The roof here is pretty impressive.
15:27 John Daub: I started working as a farm worker. I started working in winter. Then it got cold. Winter earthquake. So your family has been here for a long time. Wow! How many generations? That's amazing. America was born 200 years ago. My country. I'm in the same place as your family. That's amazing. You're streaming a lot. I'm watching you on 400 yen right now. That's amazing. I've been living in Japan for 20 years. This is amazing. He speaks Japanese. Amazing. He speaks Japanese very well. My Japanese is not that good. It's good enough. It gets me by. It's really cool.
17:17 John Daub: I like this history. I like places like this. It's not easy to get here. I think this is why I'm trying to get my driver's license in Japan. Because you need to drive to get places like this. And Japan is filled with really wonderful places like this. Like magical, mystical villages in the mountains. And you need a car to get there. You can't get there by train or JR Pass. All the great places that you can get by train are overrun with tourists. Like Takayama in Gifu Prefecture. Takayama is a beautiful, magical place. Everywhere you look, there's like Westerners there. Because it's easy to get there by train. If you want to go someplace really deep, you need a car. I gotta get my license. Why is it so hard to get certified to get a license in Japan? Safety first, right? But as soon as I get my license, I'll be able to drive to places like this. And find really out of the way places. I mean, just look out the window. It's like a time warp, isn't it? This is like a different world, isn't it?
18:26 John Daub: I'm gonna come back and buy something. But first, I just wanna take you around town a little bit before I sign off. Isn't that place so cool? You just stumble upon stuff as you're walking around or traveling around. And you stop and have a curious look around. You find these mystical, magical places. Alright, up there on the hill, you can see the shrine. You see it up there? And there is where you can pray for all sorts of stuff. Longevity, babies, all sorts of stuff that people prayed for for hundreds of years. Very cool. Thank you. Thank you for the super chats. I saw Tam sent me a pretty big one. I appreciate that. I will... He asked me to get another battery for this stabilizer, which I definitely will need. I'm gonna order that on Amazon. So I appreciate that. And Jim as well. I appreciate always the support. There's lots of other stuff around here. I just wanna show you quickly, walk around this area and give you a glimpse of what you can see if you have a car.
19:50 John Daub: This is also another beautiful shop where they're making... This is what was on the postcard stamp. Look at it. So beautiful. So old. You know? And there's the Miharu koma, which is what he was making in the shop. It's just so... You feel like you're in another time zone. Like another area, another country. When you're in a place like this. It's such a big contrast to Tokyo. They're making stuff. So they really are handmade. Very cool.
20:52 John Daub: What are you making? Oh, hello. Oh, this? You're making this? Oh, wow.
21:01 Staff: Excuse me. Which country are you from?
21:05 John Daub: I'm American.
21:06 Staff: There's a Japanese person in America.
21:08 John Daub: Oh, really? I don't understand Japanese at all.
21:13 Staff: Oh, I see.
21:15 John Daub: It's difficult to speak Japanese.
21:21 Staff: Oh, yeah.
23:24 Artisan (Spain): I work in Valencia with the Fiesta de las Fallas (festival of giant paper figures). I am an artisan from Spain. I came because I think this type of figure has a lot to do with the Fallas. They are paper figures, although they do not burn, but they are also paper figures. So, for a month I have been receiving classes and exchanging work techniques.
23:47 John Daub: Wow, very interesting. I forgot Spanish. I learned Spanish in Guatemala, but I haven't used it for a long time, so I'll remember it when I use it a little. You live here?
24:10 Artisan (Spain): Yes, I live here for a month. I live in Valencia, Spain, but this time I am moving to Japan.
24:27 John Daub: What are you making now?
24:29 Artisan (Spain): I am making a bean-shaped daruma. I am making it with tin foil. I painted it with tin foil, and then I painted the skin, eyes, and ears. I painted the cup as well.
24:55 John Daub: Akoyama-san, sorry. A lot of celebrities have stayed here, right? Many famous people have been here before. You can see all the signatures of celebrities around Japan. So, where are you going to go in a month? Are you going back to Spain?
25:30 Artisan (Spain): I will finish here, and then I will go to the other side of the country with my friends. And then I will go back to Spain.
25:52 John Daub: Do you want to stay here? He doesn't want to go back to Spain. He wants to stay here. I'm used to it. I've been living in Japan for 20 years. I'm in Tokyo now. I lived in Iwaki 20 years ago. Oh, Iwaki. Near here. It has changed. It really looks like a different city. You can't speak Spanish or Japanese, so I have to explain it to you in English. Wonderful. So, that's so cool. Thank you. You can check out the channel Only in Japan on YouTube. Is there any rice? At the end of the shop, there's a blog. valenciadecartonpiedra.blogspot.com. Very cool. This shop is also very interesting. These are being made for the season right now. Very nice. Better than a Christmas tree. Christmas trees are pretty nice.
27:55 John Daub: All my other channels are live streaming. Now, live streaming. That was nice. That was interesting. I don't know if anybody who speaks Spanish or Japanese can understand that, but he's been here for a short period of time. He's helping out and learning about this culture. He's going to tour around the country afterwards and go back to Spain. But he doesn't want to go back to Spain because he's very used to living here. His Japanese is really good. Hopefully, he can find a way to stay here. There's a lot of people who want to come and live in Japan. It's just not... You need to have a visa and a purpose, a home, and a job. So, I hope you enjoyed this little miniature episode in this small town somewhere in Fukushima Prefecture. If you have a car, you too can make your way here and buy a Miharu koma and be a part of the legend. It's up to you. Get your Japanese driver's license and start driving.
29:21 John Daub: I hope Mia-san is not gone. Oh, Mia-san, you left. Okay, I'll come back. They're gone. Do you think they just left me here? Oh, no. Oh, there you are. I'm glad. Wow. So, this is Mia. And Shige. Mr. Shige. From Akita but living in Fukushima. From Yamagata prefecture. Wonderful. What did you buy? It's for you. For me? Yeah, souvenir. Wonderful. Cool. So, we're gonna head off on the road and check out the next place. 13 onsen. We're hitting another one coming soon. So, wherever you are in the world, have a really nice day. The weather's turning out to be pretty nice here in Fukushima. So, see you next time, everybody.