00:00:00 John Daub: Hey everybody, welcome to my neighborhood. It's now 5 p.m. here in Tokyo. You can hear the bells ringing. In Japan, they always ring bells at 5 p.m. as an indication for the kids to go home. There's a jingle to it, but I thought on this rainy day, there really isn't much I can show you in the city. So what I'm gonna do today is take you around my neighborhood and to a local shrine that I did not even know existed until about two hours ago when I was searching Google Maps for interesting places. It just came up as Kusanagi Shrine (草薙神社), a 10-minute walk from my house. I've been living here for 13 years and didn't know about this place. There's a reason why when I take you there—you're probably gonna find out. It is raining here in Tokyo.

00:01:06 John Daub: You can see these streets in my neighborhood—they're very narrow. I'm gonna take you this way to another narrow street. There are so many little streets with houses like this. This is old-school Japan, so these streets don't run on a grid system. There's a really nice new house—a big mix of old and new where I live. You can see a slice of everyday life. Somebody getting a haircut, and then the shrine is down here. Oh wait, no—it's one more down. See, it's hard to find. These are local Tokyo houses, apartments, businesses—sometimes they're probably making something in there.

00:02:19 John Daub: There it is—I just went past it. It's right down this street. I know I've walked by this a hundred, two hundred times and never gone down this street. You can see part of the torii (鳥居 gate), which indicates there's a shrine there. So I'm gonna turn the camera around and walk over towards it. This one is called Kusanagi Shrine, and nobody really knows much of the history. I found one blog entry and checked Japanese websites, but couldn't find much. Of course there's a vending machine right next to it—I might have to hit that; it's pretty cold right now.

00:03:04 John Daub: This is Kusanagi Shrine. As I got a little bit off the main street, I'm putting my umbrella down. Thank you, Matthias—good morning or good evening from Tokyo. We have here a really interesting little shrine, and I'm gonna get a closer look at the inside. I searched the internet and came up with a sort of explanation of what this shrine is. The history isn't really out there, so this may be the first time even in English or Japanese that anyone has reported about it. These shrines in between the houses are located everywhere in Japan—you'll be walking down the street and boom, there's a shrine between the buildings. It's kind of neat to live next to a shrine, a holy place where gods reside.

00:04:19 John Daub: This is what I found on Japanese sites—a very crude translation. Kusanagi Shrine is an eagle shrine from the former Sagami Road (相模), based on the Yamato Takeru (日本武尊) legend. The Kusanagi (草薙) relates to the Kusanagi sword (草薙の剣), one of Japan's three imperial regalia. From the Yamato Takeru era in the country of Sagami (相模国)—which is not in this area; I think it's in Kanagawa Prefecture, out in the mountains. It was a god who was devastated in the country and caught on fire in a hidden field. He got a bag from his aunt, opened it, and there was flint inside. He swept the grass with his sword, igniting it and burning the enemy. It's a really crude translation, but has to do with the sword in the countryside of Sagami. I used to take the Odakyu Line—there's a Sagami station, I believe.

00:05:53 John Daub: Basically, these local shrines—I think somebody founded them between the houses. Even on the internet, there's zero information on this place. It's so dark, it's hard to read the rock. It says Shinozaki, which is the area, but I don't see anything on the history—just names of people who sponsored or funded the shrine. It's a really calm and peaceful place, with an offering of sake (酒 rice wine) to the gods. The caretaker must be in this house, but nobody's home—I knocked to ask about the history, and nothing. In Japan, there are just so many places like this.

00:07:08 John Daub: As an American, we have churches, and most are very new—there isn't much history to the United States like here in Japan. Another local shrine in my neighborhood was founded in the year 700—that's 1300 years ago. It's crazy to imagine something that old still standing. In the US, we didn't have anything before 300 or 350 years ago—it was largely uninhabited land. Now America's built up, but the great thing about Japan is everywhere you go, you step into history. It's weird to just walk and boom, there's a shrine. I didn't know about this after 13 years of living here. I'm probably gonna come back and pray at another time. It's humble and wrapping around the streets between the houses, marked on Google Maps with zero history. Somebody does take care of it.

00:08:41 John Daub: That's a slice of everyday life in Japan in a small area of Tokyo. Pretty cool. That place is called Kusanagi Shrine, based on the legend of the Kusanagi sword from Sagami, an old swan legend. A lot of it I have no idea what it means, but sounds mystical—and that's good enough for me. When you come to Japan as a tourist in Tokyo, you'll stumble upon these little shrines—sometimes very small between two houses or in an alleyway like I showed you in Akihabara last year. They're hidden everywhere, really neat to find and discover. Locals don't even know—if you can find the history, great. I've lived here 13 years and had no idea. It's usually the oldest guy in the area with history passed down from his grandfather, who forgot to write it down because he was busy drinking shochu (焼酎 distilled spirit) at the local izakaya (居酒屋 pub).

00:10:18 John Daub: I remember going to Aogashima Island (青ヶ島), an island in Tokyo—I filmed an episode there this past summer. I asked people if they knew the history, and only three or four out of a population of 160 really did—the elders, passed down by word of mouth. That's how some of these little shrines are—somebody might have started it 300 years ago and passed it down. This is my neighborhood, about 10 minutes away on foot. On a clear day, this road goes straight to the Tokyo Skytree, which is pretty cool. But today it's cold with a winter chill. Cherry blossoms started blooming at Yasukuni Shrine on Sunday—now it's Wednesday, buds are out, flowers just starting to pop. The arrival of sakura (桜 cherry blossoms) is imminent.

00:12:13 John Daub: This is a main street—population of my town isn't very big, so not a lot of people. There's a ramen place—Nakachan—it's closed; I've never been. There's Chinese cuisine up there. People do try to find me during or after a stream to say hi—it happens all the time. Peter von Gomm is watching this live stream. We did a Christmas live stream a few months ago, and at the end, two people from Australia walked up, bright-eyed and smiling: "Hey!" We had a good time talking. Peter was with his son Joji—check out his channel; he has a nice video on pickles that'll crack you up. If you find me while live streaming, say hi—I like it. Someone emailed they saw Peter in Ikebukuro but was too afraid to say hi from Denmark. Peter would love it—you should tap him on the shoulder.

00:13:37 John Daub: This is a bakery—Angeline—I didn't know it existed. They have cakes and stuff; I'll come back when not freezing. No curry pan—it's French with cream stuff. Oh, yakisoba pan (焼きそばパン fried noodles in bread). I'm gonna go in and get that. Back—we're back. I got a yakisoba pan, still warm—they must have just baked it. I like to support local businesses, and with super chats today, I'll show you. We all know yakisoba (焼きそば fried noodles). My friends Simon and Martina just put up a video on making it, which inspired me. Yakisoba pan is one of the strangest bakery items in Japan—yakisoba shoved inside bread. This is $1.20 from a French bakery—a big thank you to super chatters. It's like spaghetti but soba with sauce, nori (海苔 seaweed) flakes, pork, cabbage—so good.

00:16:48 John Daub: Bakery items here are unique—hot dogs, croquettes with mashed potatoes deep-fried, sliced with tonkatsu sauce (豚カツソース pork cutlet sauce) in bread. This yakisoba pan is pretty good—from a local bakery run by a nice lady; everybody looked over 70. This isn't Harajuku or Shibuya—no crowds. I'm going to the vending machine, get a drink, answer questions, then end—I'm freezing. Not a female truck—male truck. Neat little cafe, but last order at 4:30 p.m.—who closes a cafe then? Reports of snow today, but didn't. Gonna get a hot drink and cut this out. This is one of the most impressive houses in my neighborhood—I've been dying to talk to the owner about its history. Looks like a castle; this family must have owned this plot for 500 years. Very beautiful, mysterious in the rain. Front door's metal—very nice.

00:20:50 John Daub: Old trick: buy a hot drink and put it in your pocket to keep warm—from my third Only in Japan episode on vending machines. You can see the rain's gotten in somehow. Fanta Fruit Blend—never seen this. This is a Pocari Sweat (ポカリスエット sports drink) machine. Mt. Fuji natural water (富士山天然水)—cool, but why buy water when all this area's water comes from Mt. Fuji? Kirin (キリン) has Mets (メッツ energy drink). Fire coffee's pretty good—no Monster; it's all Red Bull country. Itoen (伊藤園) makes the best green tea—this is my favorite from vending machines. Asahi (アサヒ) drinks—no Monster for Gretchen in Arizona. Oh, there it is—Monster. But I don't need to unleash the beast; I'm a natural beast. Gotta get something hot to keep warm. Thanks for super chats—I keep streams going longer so people don't miss notifications.

00:23:31 John Daub: This is Kirin—Royal Milk Tea, hot ones down here (red) vs. cold (blue). Looking for corn soup or azuki (小豆 red bean) drink—no luck. Wanda (和名) soft drinks—Tiger Woods did commercials years ago. Georgia coffee, hot chocolate? Most expensive is 120 yen—a bargain. Going for Royal Milk Tea—compromise between hot chocolate and coffee. Fingers frozen. Here we go—pleasing sound. It's warm—oh, my hands are done. 100% from Ceylon tea (Sri Lanka)—but ingredients have more than just milk and tea; made by Coca-Cola. 360 calories per 100ml—this 200ml is like 720 calories? Not bad sugar-wise. Sharing good news: Deborah will come to Japan next year—awesome.

00:27:44 John Daub: Everybody's coming—meetups end of March and April. Come by—cheers. Reminds me of train rides; I'd get Royal Milk Tea on platforms with a Seishun 18 Kippu (青春 18 きっぷ 5-day unlimited local train pass for ~$100)—crazy deal. Sit riding trains, watching scenery, local people—brings back memories. Meetups: quick one end of March, longer in April—maybe with Peter von Gomm, Jennifer, even Kevin in Tokyo. Be ready for live stream. Here's a bicycle store—typical mama chari (ママチャリ commuter bikes), one-speed, $100–140. Not denki assist (電動アシスト electric-assist)—those cost thousands; might as well buy a cheap car. Gretchen wants Monster—really trying to kill me.

00:30:07 John Daub: Famous confection store—I'll ask to film inside later. Gretchen in Arizona needs a kidney—half-facetious, but let me know. Downed it for you, but no Monster here. Ichigo milk (苺ミルク strawberry milk) surrounded by Tommy Lee Jones—monstery? No, disqualified. IOU on Monster—it's cold, and I turned into a monster last time; gross. Better if Peter drinks it. Back at the station—Yoshinoya where I did the Gyudon (牛丼 beef bowl) Midnight Express video. McDonald's Yorimaki (より巻き night menu): bacon burger, hash brown?, double fish fillet. They change menu three times a day. Haven't eaten there in five years.

00:34:15 John Daub: Goodbye—too cold, freezing, wet from rain. Glad to share the Kusanagi Shrine experience—local Tokyo shrine with history left in the dark; nobody knows, not even internet. Probably first or second video on it. Gyudon for $3.25 with raw egg—nice. Cherry blossoms next week—subscribe, hit notifications for Tokyo sakura madness. Check Only in Japan TV Facebook for meetup info—quick drink, say hi. See you next time. Bye.