Only in Japan Go — Transcripts
Summaries + full diarized transcripts
2018-07-24 · Ep 288 · 12m

Tokyo's Yanaka Ginza Old Town Street View

Tokyostreet foodlocal shoppingtraditional Tokyoold town walking
Summary

Tokyo's Yanaka Ginza Old Town Street View

Overview

John Daub takes viewers on a relaxed walking tour of Yanaka Ginza, one of Tokyo's most charming and well-preserved traditional shopping streets. Located in the historic Yanaka neighborhood just minutes from the Yamanote Line, this narrow 175-meter arcade offers a stark contrast to the neon-lit chaos of Shinjuku and Harajuku. John explains that Yanaka survived both the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake and World War II bombings, making it one of the few places in Tokyo where visitors can experience the atmosphere of old Japan. The video captures the authentic, unhurried rhythm of a working-class neighborhood where family-owned shops have operated for generations.

The tour showcases the street's unique character through its shops, food stalls, and—of course—its beloved cats. John highlights local businesses including a butcher shop, seafood vendor, vegetable shop, traditional liquor store, and numerous handicraft vendors. He samples cat-themed soft serve ice cream and explores the mix of traditional crafts, affordable goods, and nostalgic atmosphere that make Yanaka Ginza a favorite among those seeking "real" Tokyo. The video also touches on practical visitor information, including station access, operating hours, and recommended activities.

Highlights

  • 00:00:07 Introduction to Yanaka Ginza as a refreshing alternative to central Tokyo's chaos
  • 00:01:20 John explains the "Ginza" name origin and station access from Nippori or Sendagi
  • 00:01:57 Historical context: Yanaka survived WWII bombing and the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake
  • 00:03:07 Traditional family-run shops including butcher, seafood, and handicraft vendors
  • 00:03:42 Shops begin closing around 4:35 PM — an important tip for timing visits
  • 00:04:46 Peach season: fresh momo (peaches) at 200 yen each
  • 00:05:25 Cat-themed gachapon (capsule toys) for $3-4 each
  • 00:07:34 Traditional Japanese tableware shop with beautiful patterns, plates from about $7
  • 00:08:05 Traditional zori (sandals) and an impressive traditional gate
  • 00:09:12 Zakuro Lamp House café with unique retro atmosphere, open 11am-8pm
  • 00:10:15 John enjoys cat-themed soft serve ice cream, melts as he films

Timeline / Chapters

Introduction (0:00-0:45)

  • John introduces Yanaka as a slower-paced alternative to Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Harajuku
  • Explains he doesn't visit often enough and wants to share this hidden gem

Arrival at Yanaka Ginza (0:45-1:20)

  • Views the entrance sign; notes the street's modest 175-180 meter length
  • Contrasts with Takeshita Dori in Harajuku

Station Access & History (1:20-2:37)

  • Nippori Station (Yamanote Line) and Sendagi Station (Chiyoda Line) access
  • Yanaka's historical significance: spared from WWII bombing and 1923 earthquake

Shopping Street Tour (2:37-7:01)

  • Family-run butcher shop, seafood vendor, liquor store
  • Handicrafts, wind chimes, karaage shop
  • Cats spotted on rooftops
  • Yaoya (vegetable shop) with peak summer peaches (200 yen each)
  • Cat-themed gachapon (3-4 dollars each)
  • 100 yen shop (Cando/Daiso competitor) and supermarket
  • Arts and crafts shops, traditional tableware vendor

Traditional Crafts & Architecture (7:01-9:12)

  • Traditional Japanese plates (~$7), teapots
  • Old cleaning shop, traditional zori (sandals)
  • Impressive traditional gate
  • Zakuro Lamp House café with retro lights

Street Food & Wrap-up (9:12-12:22)

  • John purchases and enjoys cat-themed soft serve ice cream (300 yen)
  • Technical difficulties (screen blacked out briefly)
  • Final advice: visit for about an hour, try street food, stay cool in summer

Japan Travel Tips

  • Getting There: Take the Yamanote Line to Nippori Station or the Chiyoda Line to Sendagi Station. Both are a short walk from Yanaka Ginza.
  • Timing Your Visit: Arrive earlier in the day (before 4 PM) to ensure shops are open. Many begin closing around 4:30-5:00 PM.
  • Budget: Street food is affordable—soft ice cream was 300 yen ($3), gachapon 300-400 yen ($3-4). Traditional crafts and tableware offer good value.
  • What to Eat: Try the karaage (deep-fried chicken), taiyaki snacks, soft serve ice cream, and seasonal produce like summer peaches.
  • What to Look For: Handcrafted goods, traditional Japanese tableware, cat-themed souvenirs, and the area's famous cats lounging on rooftops and streets.
  • Atmosphere: Yanaka is quiet and traditional—perfect for a peaceful stroll away from tourist crowds. Bring your camera for cats and charming old-town scenery.
  • Combine with Nearby Attractions: Yanaka is near Ueno, Nezu Shrine, and other historic sites worth exploring.

Japanese Language & Culture Notes

  • Ginza (銀座): Literally means "silver mint," but also refers to Tokyo's most upscale shopping district. Smaller shopping streets across Japan use "ginza" to evoke that prestigious commercial feeling.
  • Yaoya (八百屋): Traditional vegetable and fruit shop; "yao" combines the characters for eight (八), ten (十), and thousand (千), representing abundance.
  • Karaage (唐揚げ): Japanese-style deep-fried chicken, typically marinated in soy, garlic, and ginger. A beloved comfort food.
  • Gachapon (ガチャポン): Onomatopoeia for capsule toy machines found throughout Japan. The sound mimics the act of twisting the dial and releasing the capsule.
  • Taiyaki (たい焼き): Fish-shaped cake filled with sweet red bean paste (anko), traditionally. Modern versions include custard, chocolate, and cheese.
  • Zori (草履): Traditional Japanese sandals made of rice straw or fabric, worn with formal kimono.
  • Noren (暖簾): Fabric curtains hung above shop entrances, both decorative and practical for shade.
  • Yanaka's Survival: The neighborhood's preservation from wartime destruction makes it one of Tokyo's most authentic historical districts, along with Yanaka's famous cat population, which has become a local attraction.

Food & Drink Guide

Soft Ice Cream (猫ソフト, Neko Soft)

  • Cat-themed soft serve in a cone; John paid 300 yen (~$3)
  • Available from vendors along the shopping street
  • John's reaction: "I think this is just absolutely necessary to get in a place like this"

Karaage (唐揚げ)

  • Deep-fried chicken sold at food stalls
  • A classic Japanese street food; savory, juicy, and portable

Taiyaki (たい焼き) — Cat Version

  • Fish-shaped cake with cat design
  • Filled with anko (sweet red bean paste) and green tea
  • Available from food vendors on the street

Fresh Peaches (桃, Momo)

  • Peak season during the video (July)
  • Sold at the yaoya (vegetable shop)
  • Price: 200 yen per peach (~$6 for a pack)
  • John's observation: "Slightly pricey, but they're going to be really good peaches"

Gachapon (ガチャポン)

  • Cat-themed capsule toys
  • 300-400 yen each (~$3-4)
  • John describes them as "gachapon your way into cuteness"

People

John Daub

  • Host and creator of Only in Japan Go. An American who has lived in Japan for over 30 years, John provides authentic, down-to-earth commentary on Japanese culture, food, and travel. His conversational style and genuine curiosity make complex cultural observations accessible and entertaining.

Key Takeaways

  • Yanaka Ginza offers an authentic, traditional Tokyo shopping experience that has largely disappeared from the city center
  • The neighborhood's historical preservation makes it valuable as a window into old Tokyo
  • Shops are family-run and generations-old; supporting them helps preserve traditional commerce
  • Early closing times (around 4-5 PM) are characteristic of traditional Japanese businesses—plan accordingly
  • Cats are everywhere in Yanaka—a beloved part of local culture and a major draw for visitors
  • The area is highly walkable and can be explored in about an hour, making it a perfect addition to a Tokyo itinerary
  • Street food and souvenirs are reasonably priced; the cat theme makes for excellent, unique souvenirs

Notable Quotes

00:00:07 "Things are just a little bit slower out here. It's definitely a change of pace from Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku on the other side of Tokyo."

00:01:20 "We all know Ginza. That's the very luxurious neighborhood in Tokyo. So it kind of borrows the name from that."

00:02:37 "It has that old, old smell to it. Like going to grandma's house."

00:03:42 "Another thing with this area, things might not be open as late as you would think they should be."

00:04:46 "Right now it's peach season. So you got a lot of really delicious peaches out."

00:05:25 "This is gachapon. Like cat hat. I don't know why, but it's really cute."

00:07:34 "The patterns are really nice. About $7 for these plates. Yeah, very nice side."

00:09:12 "This isn't your typical café, everybody. This is Zakuro, it's called... It looks like you can get some. It's a lamp house."

00:10:15 "This ice cream cone has the essence of cat on it. And I think that this is just absolutely necessary to get in a place like this."

00:11:53 "Yanaka Ginza is not that big. I think it's a really easy, navigable place that you can stop at if you're staying somewhere else in the city."

Related Topics

  • Old Town Tokyo exploration
  • Yanaka neighborhood walking tours
  • Traditional Japanese shopping streets
  • Cat-themed tourism in Japan
  • Summer food in Japan (peaches, ice cream)
  • Authentic local neighborhoods off the tourist beaten path
  • Japanese street food culture
  • Traditional crafts and tableware shopping

Search Tags

#only-in-japan-go #tokyo #yanaka #yanaka-ginza #old-town #traditional-tokyo #shopping-street #cats #street-food #japan-travel #nakamura #nippori #sendagi #yamanote-line #karaage #soft-ice-cream #gachapon #japanese-architecture #summer-in-japan #local-tokyo #neighborhood-walking-tour #taiyaki #peaches #momo


Full Transcript

00:00:07 John Daub: Things are just a little bit slower out here. It's definitely a change of pace from Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku on the other side of Tokyo. This is Yanaka, and it's not that far from the Yamanote line. Hey everybody, I'm going to give you a little bit of insight into the Yanaka Ginza and the shopping street here, which is a place I don't really go to enough.

00:00:45 John Daub: There's the sign up there. It's Yanaka Ginse is a shopping street that's about 175 or 180 meters long. There it is right there. This is a far cry from what you would get if you go to Harajuku's shopping street in Takeshita Dori. But the street does go straight and looks somewhat like the opposite of what you would get in Harajuku.

00:01:20 John Daub: There's a sign that says up there, Yanaka Ginza. And we all know Ginza. That's the very luxurious neighborhood in Tokyo. So it kind of borrows the name from that. Some of the things that you should know about Yanaka Ginza, the stations are Nippori, which is on the Yamanote line. You can walk from there, or you can go from Sendagi, which is another station.

00:01:57 John Daub: I guess that's on the Chiyoda Line. Yeah, that's the Chiyoda Line, which is the Green Circle. You can get there both very quickly and easily from those two stations. And the one thing that I love about this area is that it's very, very traditional. It's one of these places that was spared from a lot of the bombing in World War II, and it also survived the Great Kanto Earthquake.

00:02:37 John Daub: I believe it was 1923. I don't have any firsthand information on that because I wasn't there, but I was born in 1974. I'm going to take you down the street here and we're going to take a look at what Yanaka Ginza has to offer you. This is also a place where you can get a lot of street food.

00:03:07 John Daub: But you know, a lot of these shops here along the street are family run. Some of them have been in the family for generations. This is a butcher shop, some seafood. There's lots of handicrafts here. These are wind chimes. Oh, check it out. And believe it or not, it's about 4pm and some of the shops are starting to close up.

00:03:42 John Daub: Another thing with this area, things might not be open as late as you would think they should be. Things usually close up around they start closing up around 4:35 or so. Clock. It has that old, old smell to it. Like going to grandma's house. That's. Here's an old liquor store. Check that out.

00:04:13 John Daub: Oh, look at the cat on the roof there. I got a feeling that cat can stay in that position for hours. Very quiet here. Beef shop. Here's a fish shop. This looks kind of old. This is karaage. This is deep fried chicken that they have here. Wow. Karaage and other deep fried foods. There's a yaoya or vegetable shop.

00:04:46 John Daub: And right now it's peach season. So you got a lot of really delicious peaches out. Can check that out. Boom. One pack for about $6. That's 200 yen a peach. Slightly pricey, but they're going to be really good peaches. This is sort of funny now. They got. They have gotcha pon up here. And of course when you're in the old sections of Tokyo, it's going to be all cat stuff.

00:05:25 John Daub: So this gachapon is like cat hat. I don't know why, but it's really cute. They're about $4 each. Three to four dollars for each one. So you can gachapon your way into cuteness here. Oh, they got like this. This is cat taiyaki. So that's red bean paste and there's some green tea anko mixed in there.

00:05:57 John Daub: So might be something that we go back. You know. I'm gonna end this by getting some food, having some street food out here. But first I just want to give you a run through the street. So when you do come to Yanaka Gin you get an idea of what you what to expect. There's a supermarket here.

00:06:27 John Daub: There's also a hundred yen shop right here. And they're already starting to pack up for the end of the day. Oh, check it out. Of course they really love cats here. They're like little sushi maggots here. Looks like a typical 100 yen shop. This is Candu, which is the Daiso competitor. There's the end of the street.

00:07:01 John Daub: I told you it was short. So Yanaka. Yanaka ginza is about 100 meter, 180 meters, 175 meters according to the Internet. I didn't actually measure it myself. Lots of arts and crafts across the street from the hundred yen shop. You have a place where you can buy bowls, dishes and a lot of traditional Japanese tableware.

00:07:34 John Daub: The patterns are really nice. About $7 for these plates. Yeah, very nice side. They have teapots in there. Everything's pretty reasonably priced. Lots of retro looking Shops. This is a. It says cleaning. It says cleaning, but I don't. Doesn't look anything like a shop that has dry cleaning.

00:08:05 John Daub: Look at this. They have like rope tatami sandals. How cool is that? Very traditional. Whoa, check out the gator. Those deck gate is like, like 20 centimeters off the ground. Look at that. Fashion from another era. It's on Sal. I know. That was really crazy looking gate. I've never seen anybody except for Oiran, which would probably wear that.

00:08:41 John Daub: Check this, check this out. This is a really interesting looking cafe. You can see the like, kind of like retro looking lights, but they seem to have a lot of them. This isn't your typical cafe, everybody. This is Zakuro, it's called. And yeah, it looks like you can get some. It's a lamp house.

00:09:12 John Daub: That's what it's called, Lamp house. It's pretty cool. And this, this place is open 11am to about 8pm every day. I know people are ordering food. I'm seeing. Oh, it says here, do not take photographs. This is video. Does that count? Wow. So check the store out. Here's some more handicrafts.

00:09:43 John Daub: All right. All right. You guys have an image now. All right, welcome back. So I got this ice cream because it seems like. Oh, no. No image yet. Okay, well, let's try this one more time. All right. It says we're live. Yeah, my phone might be suffering from heat stroke. So this is what I just bought.

00:10:15 John Daub: Welcome back. I don't know if you even see this. Oh, look, it's already starting to melt. This ice cream cone has the essence of cat on it. And I think that this is just absolutely necessary to get in a place like this. So this cost me $3 for this soft ice cream cone. And yeah, this is where I got it from.

00:10:47 John Daub: Sorry, I'm melting. We apparently went black. The screen went black. And then all of a sudden I had to quickly maneuver because I'm starting to lose this ice cream real fast. That's good. But it has the theme of, of a cat, so. Well, I think a lot of you guys missed some of the live stream. Just the screen went black. That's why I got vanilla to even out the black screen parts of it. I do apologize for that. And I'm probably going to cut it out. But all in all, you know, Yanaka Ginza is not that big. I think it's a really easy, navigable place that you can stop at if you're staying somewhere else in the city.

00:11:53 John Daub: Jump on the Yamanote line. Go to Nippori and check out this area. You know, I think you can do it in about an hour. Get some street food. There's yakitori. There's ice cream. There's all sorts of stuff that you can try. Stay cool. Have some fun. All right, so I'm gonna give you the last 20 seconds.

00:12:24 John Daub: Turn around. Check out this amazing market for yourself. I'm melting. Ah, there you go. 20 seconds. It took me 20 seconds to turn it around. It's just.

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