00:02:28 John Daub: So we're going back a long, long time in history. I'm going to show you a little bit about this area and give you some of the history right now. Before we start, this here is the Akihabara station area. The station is quite big. It does an X right here. What you can see on this line is the Sobu Line, which goes towards Asakusa-bashi and out towards Chiba. And this is the Yamanote Line. Right here is the Kanda River, and this is very significant. I'm going to tell you why the Kanda River is very important to the city of Tokyo.

00:03:18 John Daub: Akihabara is very famous these days for being a manga, anime, mecha center, so to speak. It's true—it's a very important, almost sacred place for people who love manga and anime. But there's so much more to this place. The history of Akihabara as a location is that it was right next to one of the gates of Edo, the old capital of Tokyo. We're talking 18th, 19th century. Then there was a big fire in 1869. Tokyo had a lot of fires back then—you can imagine all the wooden buildings. A lot burned down; it was a common way of life in cities around Japan. In 1869, Akihabara and this area burned down. They rebuilt it, and that's when the name Akihabara came about. It wasn't called Akihabara originally—it was Akihabara [?], or Aki-bara-hara [?]. Akihabara kanji means autumn leaf field: aki (autumn), ha (leaf), bara/hara (field). I'll show you why.

00:04:51 John Daub: This is a picture of Akihabara in the 1880s. You can see the big clearing, a big field—that's Akihabara, what it means. A lot burned down, so maybe that's why there's a big field or hole in the middle of Edo. This is what it looked like before, and this is what it looks like now. It's pretty crazy—things have changed a lot since the 1880s. Akihabara Station opened in 1890, construction started in 1888. From this, the area really grew—once you put in a train station, things move quickly. Population and commerce increased. This area boomed because it was just outside the Kanda River.

00:06:05 John Daub: The Kanda River goes around the Imperial Palace—that's why it's significant, like a moat. Areas inside the Kanda River are closer to the palace; outside meant lower-level samurai. Even today, old-timer snobs feel if you live outside the Yamanote Line, you're lower class, less access, less money. Inside or on the Yamanote Line, you're better. Around 1995 or '96, they said okay to three stops away. This aristocracy feeling still exists. This road is Chuo-dori (central street), the main avenue through this side of Tokyo. Straight takes you to Ueno; the other way through Ginza to Shinagawa. In Akihabara, the most famous thing is this crossing—above it is the Chuo Line from Shinjuku to Ueno towards Chiba. Trains roll by every couple minutes.

00:07:52 John Daub: I told you this isn't just about manga and anime—I'm taking you on a real tour. Oh, there we go. It's a cool picture from the other side: Sega World, anime/manga billboards with the Chuo Line. Looks like a real city on the move. Before I cross to maid cafe alley, look at this. Historically, after World War II, Akihabara was where a lot of black market stuff was sold—outside government jurisdiction, no real government post-war, but people needed electronics and appliances. That image still exists, though overshadowed by otaku/manga/anime/game centers. Electronics is Akihabara's DNA back to WWII. Black market sparked entrepreneurship—still big here in maid cafes, mom-and-pop shops. People with ideas launch businesses; many family-owned forever.

00:10:07 John Daub: Kyushu Denki sells random parts—this isn't what you'd think of Akihabara in 2018, but it is. Walking alleys, it's filled with electronics like at a hardware store, all mom-and-pop. They love LED lights. These weights are part of Akihabara history. Little electronic stuff, used/recycled/sometimes new—competes with big stores. These shack-looking shops go back to WWII, all over in front of the station. The exit we came from is called Denki-gai (Electric Town). With entrepreneurship boom, home appliances came; when that got old, computers in the 1980s boom. Cross Chuo-dori, see 1980s remnants. Real estate taken, so entrepreneurs moved across.

00:13:14 John Daub: Tourism exploded—400% increase last 10 years. Shops sell tourist stuff like samurai t-shirts, magnets, squishies. Good to support locals. Now crossing Chuo-dori into the 1980s. Thanks for super chats—I'm talking so much, missing questions. Many owners sold to immigrants from China/Asia—you see it around Tokyo, like Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane) in Shinjuku, half Chinese-owned now. Quality different, not bad. Late '70s/1980s, computers/cameras boomed—Akihabara natural for home appliances. Result: computer parts stores. This is Maid Cafe Alley—hundreds of maids recruiting. They can't afford main street, go deeper.

00:16:16 John Daub: Good memories here under Chuo Line—not KFC, but mystery vending machine episode last Christmas. Bought presents there, interviewed CEO—check it out. Machines everywhere, but $10 each. Now walking to computer parts, then maids. Game centers been here forever, but foot traffic down—order direct now. Video games, UFO catchers (gacha machines). Slightly creepy gotcha porn, adult videos—part of 1980s. '70s was smutty area for adult stuff; computers brought it back to non-human sales. Hamada Denki sells electronics, SD cards—parallel imports cheaper than Yodobashi Camera. Tsukumo Electronics, ramen—used parts shops.

00:20:02 John Daub: Down this street, every computer part imaginable—I've hunted used computers here, no warranty though. Famous tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet) shop—$20, but good; lines before opening. After '80s computer boom simmered, online/Gateway disrupted—manga/anime boomed. Close to Jimbocho publishing (Shueisha, One Piece, Shonen Jump)—I visited editorial room, only journalist ever. '90s became otaku center; maid cafes replaced failing computer shops. Convenient off Yamanote, near publishers.

00:22:04 John Daub: Wide angle—not filming maids, but you'll see/hear them recruiting, especially tourists. Maid Dreamin'—McDonald's of maid cafes. Don't go anymore, but did for NHK 2008 with Patrick Galbraith, Kevin Cooney (Tokyo Kuni, original J-vlogger). Explored 10 cafes—they hate filming, charge media fee, aggressive managers. Maybe from '70s smut roots. Entrepreneur spirit: old computer shop now LED shop. Still old parts, maybe original Apple Macintosh upstairs. Fused computer/otaku—quieter back here, IOSIS used stuff, haggle. Maid cafes taking over.

00:26:06 John Daub: Never seen maid with QR code on back—scan for info? Crazy. Train rolling by—fixed my GH5 here, Panasonic repair. Weird maid cafes: ninja maids, vape with maids. Maid Dreamin' everywhere, not bad. Worth it? Maybe—fun, but no pics, privacy protective. Super Potato for retro games/consoles—memory lane for '80s gamers, original Atari.

00:29:41 John Daub: Lots of maid cafes, unique: vape, ear cleaning, vampire, boys as maids (fun for NHK). That's Maid Cafe Alley—worth detouring off Chuo-dori.

00:30:41 Noel: How you doing? Hi. Thank you.

00:30:41 John Daub: Where are you from? New York? I'm live streaming. My friend told you to chase me? You found me. How long here? Leaving tomorrow? Here since Monday. What do you think of Akihabara? Better than New York—Bronx, work Manhattan. No equivalent—no electronics like this; online killed them. Mom-and-pops still thrive. Name? Noel. Nice to meet you—gotta keep touring.

00:32:23 John Daub: At Home cafe chain—first in Don Quixote. Beautiful entrance, TripAdvisor recommended, maids on screen. Clear prices: discounts for students, kids free. Menu: drink/dessert/food sets. Cutie puppy curry, fruit parfait, omelet rice.

00:34:21 John Daub: Maid Dreamin'. Crossing to more alley—behind is Chuo-dori. Itasha (itai=ouch/painful, sha=car; anime-wrapped cars so beautiful it hurts). Shop where cut open gachapon with What's Inside. Oden vending—warm better; simmered dashi (fish stock), daikon, fish cake. Quick for otaku—no time, cheap energy before maids/manga. Abura-soba (oil noodles, no soup)—famous, always packed.

00:37:49 John Daub: Street hub of entrepreneurship—old/new shops off Chuo-dori. Circuit: Maid Cafe Alley was computer alley. Off-Broadway: At Home huge.

00:39:00 John Daub: Itasha: itai (ouch), sha (car)—beautiful it hurts. Epic photo back across street. Yodobashi Camera—world's biggest electronics store, city within a city. Buy new cameras there; I prefer Shinjuku for used. Softmap (Bic Camera competitor), Labi (Yamada Denki).

00:41:45 John Daub: If you saw my hidden Akihabara shrine video, you know where going. Used laptops. Japanese eggs orange, nutritious.

00:42:57 John Daub: Don Quixote (Donki)—staple, first At Home inside. Sixth/seventh floors game centers/retro. Cheap snacks for tourists. AKB48 cafe down here.

00:44:19 John Daub: Further from station, figures spill out—UFO catchers, old iPhones (suspicious), repairs. Street Fighter, old consoles (originals, black/white). Novelty, retro camp—Zelda, Mario music. Lucky fukubukuro (mystery bags)—One Piece 3000 yen. First maid cafe around here, towards Suehirocho. Flashing lights from 100V—shutter speed issue.

00:48:02 John Daub: Suehirocho Station smaller, easier than Akihabara crowds on Hibiya Line. Gachapon everywhere. Friend's Gachapon Kaikan—tons, weird: milk trains, hamsters, eggs (onsen tamago hot spring egg). Bought puppy-in-cup (200 yen)—cute dog.

00:57:47 Gachapon Kaikan Owner: I saw you on YouTube. Lots come here.

00:57:47 John Daub: Best gachapon shop—come! Thanks.

00:58:18 John Daub: Maids recruiting family into Maid Dreamin'. Powerless to cute maids. Secret shrine viral video—construction blocked entrance, now open from exit.

01:00:08 John Daub: Suehirocho—0.5km to Akihabara. Taiyaki (fish pastries, cheap street food). Possible itasha.

01:01:52 John Daub: Secret shrine accessible now—new marble, respect area. UDX expo hall. Cuddle cafe (lingerie, towel over eyes)—creepy.

01:08:24 John Daub: Recap history: 1880s field, 1869 fire, station 1890. Akiba Shrine moved to Taito/Ueno. Fukushima tasting market—veggies/peaches from inland.

01:15:17 John Daub: Like walking tours? Thumbs up—Shinjuku-Shibuya via Harajuku/Meiji best. UDX new, Gundam/AKB48 cafes.

01:36:20 Alan Welch: Hey everybody.

01:17:08 John Daub: Aerial: Gundam Cafe, AKB48. Yamanote/Keihin-Tohoku. Station 1890 changed area—outside Kanda (moat). Starbucks, Vie de France bakery. AKB48 Cafe/Shop—idols, food. Gundam Cafe stylish—good effects, merch, gachapon.

01:23:28 John Daub: Under tracks—Shinkansen to Ueno. Edo gate nearby, outside Kanda lower class. Yodobashi massive. Street food paradise—Sweets Paradise (ramen cake, apple pie gyoza). Creme brulee donut—yum. Takoyaki, croissant taiyaki.

01:29:49 John Daub: Got creme brulee donut. Hibiya subway to JR. Donut line—matcha cheap.

01:32:36 John Daub: Creme brulee donut crunchy—$2.30, shortens life. Max Coffee super sweet (Tohoku originally). Ramen cakes creepy-real.

01:36:26 Alan Welch: Cheers. Black coffee—no sugar.

01:38:09 John Daub: Nomi aruki (drink/walk) bad manners. Otaku hygiene... Goku statue. Lunch sets: Otoya karaage good. Washington Hotel train room. Secret bridge to Kanda River—locals' shortcut to Kanda Station.

01:44:10 Alan Welch: Never been here.

01:44:33 John Daub: Historical canal city. Old shrine, Vending Machine House of Horrors (with Peter von Gomm)—smells real. Kandagawa song. Mystery vending 1000 yen. Tsundere maid cafe (hot/cold)—NHK with Kevin Cooney. Tokyo Game Show 2013 (Alan cameraman). Walk Akihabara to Tokyo Station next. Thanks for watching—super chats!