Only in Japan Go — Transcripts
Summaries + full diarized transcripts
2018-10-06 · Ep 352 · 1h 3m

Tsukiji Fish Market's Moving Day October 2018

TokyoTsukiji Market ClosureMarket RelocationStreet FoodTokyo History
Summary

Tsukiji Fish Market's Moving Day October 2018

Overview

On October 6, 2018, John Daub visits Tsukiji Market in Tokyo on its official moving day. The inner wholesale market closed to the public on September 30th, and between October 6th and 11th, the market operations are relocating to the new facility in Toyosu. John walks across the historical Kachidoki Bridge to document the final days of the inner market, observing trucks moving equipment and the heavy security preventing public entry.

While the inner market shuts down, John explores the outer market (shotengai), which remains open. He interacts with tourists and shop owners, capturing the mixed emotions of sadness and celebration. Some shops are holding clearance sales on fresh fish and mentaiko (spicy fish roe), while others like Sushi Zanmai continue business as usual. John provides historical context on Tsukiji's origins as reclaimed land and discusses the impact of the move on legendary sushi chefs like Jiro Ono.

This video serves as a historical record of the transition, clarifying that while the wholesale auction moves, the outer market's restaurants and shops intend to stay. John promises to return to test the sushi quality and explore the new Toyosu Market once it opens later in the week.

Highlights

  • 00:00:00 John introduces the moving day from Kachidoki Bridge.
  • 00:01:55 View of Tsukiji Market from the bridge; discussion on the drawbridge history.
  • 00:04:35 Historical context: Tsukiji means "reclaimed land"; market moved here in 1935.
  • 00:06:39 Confirmation that the outer market is not moving.
  • 00:14:13 Observation of natural gas-powered carts used inside the market.
  • 00:22:19 Visit to Namiwake Inari Shrine, built during land reclamation in the 1600s.
  • 00:26:02 Shops in the outer market clearing out stock; uncertainty about future.
  • 00:32:02 Story of the first Yoshinoya originating in Tsukiji because fishermen didn't want to eat fish.
  • 00:36:48 Clearance sale on hon maguro (bluefin tuna) and negitoro (minced tuna).
  • 00:47:34 Encounter with "Crazy Boy" shop owner selling mentaiko at fire-sale prices.
  • 00:55:36 Sushi Zanmai remains busy; president known for buying first tuna of the year.
  • 01:01:24 Final thoughts: Tsukiji neighborhood remains, market moves to Toyosu.

Timeline / Chapters

Japan Travel Tips

  • Outer Market Status: The Tsukiji Outer Market remains open even after the inner wholesale market moves to Toyosu.
  • Toyosu Access: The new market opens October 11th; it is about 2 kilometers from Tsukiji via Harumi-dori.
  • Dining: Sushi and kaisendon (seafood rice bowls) are still widely available in Tsukiji; shops source from Toyosu.
  • Timing: Visit early for the best selection, though the outer market is lively on weekends.
  • Transport: Kachidoki Bridge connects Tsukiji to the Toyosu side; Ginza is a short walk away.
  • Etiquette: Inside the wholesale market (when open), no large bags, no touching products, and watch for vehicles.

Japanese Language & Culture Notes

  • Tsukiji (築地): Literally means "reclaimed land." The area was reclaimed from the sea in the 1600s (Manji era).
  • Namiwake Inari Shrine: Built 1658–1661. Dedicated to Inari Myōjin to protect land reclamation workers from waves.
  • Market History: The fish market moved to Tsukiji in 1935 after the Great Kantō Earthquake (1923) destroyed the previous market in Nihonbashi.
  • Yoshinoya Origin: The first Yoshinoya beef bowl shop started in Tsukiji because fishermen preferred meat over fish after working with it all day.
  • Ninja Rats: John jokes about the legendary "ninja rats" of Tsukiji that could climb power lines, wondering if they will move to Ginza.

Food & Drink Guide

  • Sushi: Still available in the outer market. John plans to return for a sushi episode. 00:07:19
  • Kaisendon (Seafood Rice Bowl): Various shops selling colorful bowls of seafood on rice. 00:54:43
  • Mentaiko (Spicy Fish Roe): Sold at clearance prices by "Crazy Boy" vendor (500–2,800 yen). 00:47:34
  • Hon Maguro Don (Bluefin Tuna Bowl): Sold for about 2,800 yen during clearance; normally higher. 00:36:48
  • Negitoro (Minced Tuna): Packed in bags for freezing; sold cheaply during move. 00:36:48
  • Sushi Zanmai Set: Nigiri set with maguro, kai, anago, uni, ikura, sweet shrimp, egg for 3,000 yen. 00:55:36

People

  • John Daub: Host and narrator. Provides historical context and interacts with locals.
  • Matt: Tourist from Amsterdam. Sad about the market closing.
  • Naima: Tourist from Italy. Visiting for two weeks.
  • New Yorker Fan: Recognizes John from YouTube; discusses mentaiko deals.
  • Security Guards: Enforcing closure of the inner market gate.
  • Shop Owners: Including "Crazy Boy" selling mentaiko and Sushi Zanmai staff.

Key Takeaways

  • The inner wholesale market closed to the public on September 30, 2018, and physically moves October 6–11.
  • The Tsukiji Outer Market (restaurants and retail) remains in place and continues business.
  • Toyosu Market is only about 2 kilometers away, but the move impacts logistics for older chefs like Jiro Ono.
  • Tsukiji as a neighborhood predates the market (reclaimed land from 1600s) and will continue to exist.
  • Clearance sales offer unique opportunities to buy fresh seafood at low prices during the transition.

Notable Quotes

  • 00:01:55 "Tsukiji Market sort of had a ninja rat problem. I've heard that the rats of Tsukiji were very nimble..."
  • 00:04:35 "Tsukiji actually means reclaimed land. So the kanji, if you can read the Japanese kanji, it means reclaimed land..."
  • 00:16:46 "If I was a rat and I was displaced, I would go to Ginza too. If you're going to be homeless, you want to be a Ginza homeless person, right?"
  • 00:32:02 "All of the fishermen don't want to eat fish... The last thing they want to eat is fish. So what did fishermen want to eat? They would eat gyūdon or ramen..."
  • 01:01:24 "Say goodbye to Tsukiji Market, everybody... Tsukiji is older than the market. Tsukiji goes back centuries. Tsukiji is going to be okay."

Related Topics

  • Toyosu Market Opening
  • Tsukiji Outer Market Food Tour
  • History of Tokyo Fish Markets
  • Sushi Zanmai Tuna Auction
  • Kachidoki Bridge History

Search Tags

#only-in-japan-go #tsukiji #toyosu #tokyo #fish-market #sushi #kaisendon #mentaiko #travel #japan #john-daub #築地 #豊洲 #寿司


Full Transcript

00:00:00 John Daub: Hey everybody, it's a bright and sunny day in Tokyo, and I just wanted to take you today to Tsukiji Market. This is the last—well, yesterday was the day that it closed to the public. This is the day that it officially closes. Nobody could go into Tsukiji Market from September 30th. It was closed to the public on that day, and from the 6th to the 11th, Tsukiji Market is going to be moving to the new market in Toyosu. Relocation is going on right now. So on the other side of the river, you can see Tsukiji Market. This is Kachidoki Bridge, a very historical bridge in the city of Tokyo that crosses from Toyosu to Ginza.

00:00:41 John Daub: Wow, the wind's really picked up here in Tokyo. On the end of the bridge right there—follow my finger—this is all Tsukiji Market, and this is what's shutting down and being relocated. Hey, so we're gonna cross the bridge right now and make our way across to Tsukiji Market. There is a lot of action. I'll tell you right now, there's a ton of trucks going by, and you can kind of smell the fish. A lot of these things probably haven't been moved in a long time, some of these stands and stuff. I wonder how the area is gonna react to it—not just the fishermen and the market and the sellers, but also the environment. Tsukiji Market sort of had a ninja rat problem. I've heard that the rats of Tsukiji were very nimble; they were able to climb phone lines and power lines and get through tight places because, well, they're ninja rats.

00:01:55 John Daub: So there we are. It's hard to see because the sun is right behind it, but that right down there in the center is Tsukiji Market. Right there—that's a brand new bridge, by the way, so they can get the balance a little bit better. I love this bridge. Kachidoki Bridge is pretty neat. This bridge used to open up as a drawbridge, but it no longer does that since tall boats cannot come in down the Sumida River. I think it's been like that for maybe three decades or longer. All right, here we're getting closer now. Now we can kind of see Tsukiji Shijō, which is the name of the market.

00:02:48 John Daub: It's a Saturday afternoon here, so people are a lot more relaxed. There's no business guys; the locals in the area are out and about. But you see some people taking pictures, so there are tourists here, kind of saying goodbye to the market. We're getting close to the entrance. This is where you would go in order to wait in the morning for the tuna auction. I have a lot of really fun memories—just waiting, I don't know if they're fond though. Let's just put it like that—waiting for the tuna auction to start. We got there at 2:30 in the morning and we would sit down uncomfortably for an hour and a half or longer until they called us in to go and see the auction, which lasted about 15-20 minutes for us to see anyways.

00:03:47 John Daub: Just saying, okay, now we're very close to Tsukiji Market. You get a better view because the sun is—it's hard to balance here. Okay, there you go. You get a better view of Tsukiji Market from the Sumida River. We're now very close to the market, and there she is—closed now. Loads and loads of trucks going by. I believe they're moving some of the stuff, but I thought I would take a quick look-see since I live in the area. How is Tsukiji Market going to change? I can tell you a couple of things that I know right now.

00:04:35 John Daub: All right, how will Tsukiji Market change? Well, yeah, OCD Stig writes and I'm sad. Yeah, I'm kind of sad too because this is such a big part of the identity of Tsukiji. But you know, Tsukiji was here before the Tsukiji Market. You guys know that, right? Tsukiji Market came in after the Great Kantō Earthquake of 1923, which devastated the city back then. Tsukiji Market was in Nihonbashi at the time in Tokyo, and they moved from there after the earthquake. I believe it was 1935 they moved it to this spot, and I don't know when it officially opened—I think it was around 1935 or so. But since then, it's been here, the fish market for the city of Tokyo. Tsukiji, but Tsukiji has been here a lot longer than the market. Tsukiji actually means reclaimed land. So the kanji, if you can read the Japanese kanji, it means reclaimed land, and I guess it was like in the 1600s that the land was reclaimed.

00:05:41 John Daub: No, no, just mind you, nobody can go in. This is the entrance and here's information for visitors. This is where you would go for the tuna auction, but now it's all closed down and only workers can go in there and just people that are on the move. Just pretty interesting. So there you go. There's the market and there's a lot of stuff happening. The inner market is this way. So when we did the fish auction, we would go this way and then it was taking place in there. A lot of movement—well, there's always a lot of movement, but you can see the trucks packing up, taking a lot of the stuff inside the market over to Toyosu to officially move much of it.

00:06:39 John Daub: Oh man, and you can smell the fish. It's a big whiff, but those who came for the tuna auction will remember this building right here is the place where you would sit and wait for hours before you were let in to go and see the tuna, the freeze-dried tuna. I can hear the announcements going on. We're going to walk around. So the inner market is closed; the inner market is moving. The outer market—this is a big question. A lot of people have been asking me over the last couple of months. The outer market is not going anywhere. All right, the outer market will still be here.

00:07:19 John Daub: Hey, how you doing, Ash? You can be assured that if you come to Tsukiji in October, even though the market's over in Toyosu, which is about one and a half or two kilometers this way—it's almost like a straight shot—you could be assured that you're going to get pretty good sushi in this area for a long time to come because this is still the origin of Tsukiji. This is still where a lot of the good restaurants are, and they're going to be probably setting up a branch over on the other side. But I bet you they keep their head offices right here because, you know, historically, this is where you want to be. I'm going to be here on Tuesday to eat sushi at one of the shops and I'm going to be doing some research to kind of get a feel on what the outer market is going to be like going forward. How will the outer market be affected by the move? The market's now two kilometers away. Things like Jiro Sushi—his shop is at Sukiyabashi Jirō, which is straight this way about one kilometer, and in the movie he takes his bicycle and rides to the market. Well, guess what? He's going to have to ride another few kilometers longer to get to the market to get his fish now. So I guess a lot of people haven't really thought about how that's affected him.

00:08:51 John Daub: All right, I can see there's a ton of shops and a lot of activity here, so I'm going to just hang a right here and we're going to follow the course inside of the market. Still a lot of people in the area. I can smell the fresh fish. Here's a Tsukiji fish shop right here, one of many. You can see the forklifts; people are moving, but the fish isn't going anywhere. They still have shops here and they still sell, so these shops didn't close. It kind of feels in this area—it kind of feels like the vibe is that it is closing; you get a vibe, kind of a sadness to it. It kind of feels like this is the end.

00:09:50 John Daub: All right, it looks like a group of people up there. I wonder what's going on—a lot of moving. So a lot of the older sushi chefs are going to have to make a longer trip to get their raw ingredients, and that means that's going to be a struggle, I think, for some people that have made their businesses here in this area because a lot of the foot traffic is going to be moving to another area. Here we go. This is the exit. This is where a lot of the action happens in the outer market, and you can see there's tons of stands. There's lots of people; not much has changed here. There's still businesses because it's the weekend. There's a lot of people taking pictures, trying to remember what it was like. There's a lot of memories here for people, especially locals who have families for generations that have been in this neighborhood—the last two or three generations. It's been right here.

00:11:10 John Daub: Now I can see there's the inner market and there's the gate, and they're not letting anybody in—gotta have a permit. So letting anybody in? Maybe we can go take a look up the cops; the cops telling people they can't go in. Hey, Joe, sister. Oh, thank you very much. There's a security guard there. He's really waving people off. He's doing a good job of just saying no to the people. You got some backup guys backing them up, and they're keeping the public out. The public was no longer allowed to go into the tuna auction and the inner market from September 30th, so it's been closed for over a week now.

00:12:03 John Daub: They do have some signs in English: no photos—that means on the inside. Do not touch the fish, the cabbages, the knives, the forklifts. It's kind of obvious. There are some rules like avoid walking together in large groups—kind of single file—but photography was prohibited inside. Watch out for vehicles passing through. It was kind of dangerous inside. I remember having some close calls also down here. There's a sign from Tsukiji here in the inner market: "Please don't follow Japanese guides after tuna auction." Yeah, there've been cases reported that take you to restaurants and make you treat the bill. So there were some bad tour guides in here. So after the auction, which was up to you—nobody actually guided you when you did the auction. It was something that the city allowed people, tourists, to come in and look at the tuna auction. And then when it was done, you're on your own. And then there were guides who would come in and kind of pull you into the restaurants. No suitcases—you couldn't carry bags with wheels, for example; it just got in the way. And I guess they had accidents with people leaving it and the trucks knocking them over.

00:13:21 John Daub: Yeah. So this is the gate. There's a lot of equipment. Look, I bet she's moving equipment out from a shop. They got hung up there. He's moving equipment out, taking it to a moving van on the outside and then probably shipping it to Toyosu on the other side. You see a lot of these trolleys taking the stuff from the shop to trucks to ship to the new market. Hey, Gretchen's here. Hi, John. Do they do canned tuna? I love canned tuna. No, but I might have some sushi after this.

00:14:13 John Daub: Check it out—they're getting a free ride. If you ride on one of those, I wonder if you need a permit. I guess they just let you in if you're riding one of those. Oh, look, they're getting a free ride. No, it's not fair. Wait, you're not going to see a lot of sights like these much longer. These old carts have been going back and forth for decades through the market like this, just transporting things from one place to the other. They're powered by natural gas, I believe, which is food-friendly. You didn't want exhaust fumes because it would ruin the fish. So all of these vehicles—none of them were powered by gasoline. Trucks were not allowed into the inner market, not into where they were selling the fish, but those little scooters—I think what they're called—they had a name to it, but the little scooters were allowed in because they were gas-powered by natural gas.

00:15:10 John Daub: And now they're going to be the new Mario Karts. By the way, everybody, Mario Karts got sued by Nintendo, and yeah, they're not going around the city right now either. That happened about 10 days ago. So bye-bye Mario Karts. There's a lot of stuff that you guys should know. Now that there's a ton of stuff that they got to clean up—it's going to take forever to move, but the moving days officially are starting from today to the 11th. They're going to be on their way out. Silly nom-noms for some sushi afterwards—is the outer market staying or is that moving also? So silly nom-noms, thank you very much. We got more people watching the live stream right now—moving day from Tsukiji.

00:16:02 John Daub: What I can tell you about the outer market is there's no plans right now for any of the shops to move. But the more successful shops, I think, are going to be opening up branches in Toyosu most likely. But the head offices are always going to be here. Historically, they've been here. The head offices have been here because this was Tsukiji Market, and you know, this is Tsukiji Market. This is the historical place. You're going to want to have a shop here even though the market has moved. This doesn't mean that this stops being a place for fish. It's right on the river and it's got a history going back to 1935, and the fish market has moved before—historically, before it was here in Tsukiji, it was in Nihonbashi.

00:16:46 John Daub: Excuse me. There's a lot of dust in the air. I think it's because they're moving stuff that hasn't been touched for decades. I wonder whether there's some worry that the ninja rats of Tsukiji are going to be moving towards Ginza—the Ginza, all the brand shops: Cartier, LV Louis Vuitton, Bvlgari. They're kind of worried that those rats are going to make their way into the high class. Because if I was a rat and I was displaced, I would go to Ginza too. If you're going to be homeless, you want to be a Ginza homeless person, right? I mean, no one wants to be homeless, but if you have to take your pick, you're going to pick first class all the way. I figure the rats are going to make their way to Chūō-dōri into Ginza, and there's lots of underground passages, and the ninja rats will find a new home.

00:17:51 John Daub: I'm not quite certain what they're going to be doing with this inner market. I guess eventually it'll be a museum, and they'll probably start building shopping malls and high-rise buildings, which is what you can see behind. Do you see that? That's Kachidoki on the other side of the bridge, and they're building tons and tons of high-rise apartments on the other side of the Sumida River, which sits right there. That's where the Olympic Village is going to be. So there's a lot of stuff happening over that direction, and I bet you people are going to want to live a little bit closer. So they're going to put some of the high-rise apartments on this side because this is prime real estate. Who would not want to live a five-minute walk to Ginza? I mean, come on.

00:18:32 John Daub: This is what it feels like to be inside the cell. Hold on to it. I need a metal cup to rattle this with, but it's pretty cool to see. The inner market is very, very busy. There's a lot of movement, a lot of stuff happening. My nose is running. There's a lot of dust in the air. You can smell the fish. You can smell styrofoam—something that you use a lot of; smell of styrofoam that also might be something broken up styrofoam in the air. These are the final looks of Tsukiji Market on moving day.

00:19:32 John Daub: Yeah, I know it's not good for me. And this is security guard standing. He's standing firm. So there's where you cannot enter. He's guarding hard. He's packing heat. I don't know if he's packing to eat, but it is pretty exciting to be here. I'm going to come back here in a minute. I'm going to do this live stream for about 35 minutes and answer some of your questions about Tsukiji Market. There's some more styrofoam containers, and they're just moving the stock out from the inner market—I guess to trucks on the other side or to shops, and they're just getting the stock and moving it to restaurants, maybe to buyers. I'm not sure exactly, but there's a lot of stuff happening. There's a lot of activity and a lot of tourists here taking pictures right before they close—a lot of people coming just to check it out for the last time. They'll come and stand in front of the gate for a couple of minutes, take a picture, just I guess reminisce, and then they'll leave.

00:21:15 John Daub: Yeah, it's like the fish paparazzi. These guys really like the fish market. There's some people posing for a photo in front of the gate. This is the last time you can do that, I guess. They're just going to remove everything. You can see the inside of the market from here. Do you see underneath the canopy? There—and I remember filming the Tsukiji episode for the Only in Japan main channel and just spending several hours inside of there trying not to get hit by moving vehicles, and it was so busy. No media crews here. I believe that they kind of took all the video that they needed yesterday. This is the day after, which I think is even more interesting. It's tons and tons of activity. Well, it's always been busy here. It's just this is the kind of activity where everything is going outbound and nothing is coming inbound—except for more styrofoam containers.

00:22:19 John Daub: I will come maybe we'll come back here a little bit later, but I want to take a look at the outer market and just kind of get a feel for what it's like right now with the market out of commission. This is the sushi shrine, and this I know is not going anywhere. So before you eat your sushi, you could pray here, or fishermen would pray here, or sellers would pray here. But this is famous for being the sushi shrine because it was right outside the gate of Tsukiji. And it's still a place if you're near Ginza, you can walk here in 10 minutes. It's still kind of a cool place to check out. It's called Namiwake Inari Shrine, and I'll read it here. It is said that Namiwake Inari Shrine was built during the Manji era, 1658 to 1661. That's when this is reclaimed. This is when the reclaimed land was—so Tsukiji means reclaimed land. It happened in the mid-1600s during the years of the Manji era when land and the entire Tsukiji was reclaimed. Oh, there it is. The work ran into difficulties due to waves. It is said, however, that after the image of Inari Myōjin was floated on the sea is worship and the land reclamation work was safely completed. So this was out of respect for the people building the reclaimed land.

00:23:46 John Daub: Well, they're taking pictures like return. Even the drivers are taking selfie shots to remember what it was like before. If you go in here, you will be able to see some sushi. Maybe I haven't been in here in years, but I'll be back here. Oh, this is yeah—says the name of fish, and you can see fish right there: sakana. So this is where you would pray for fish. Yeah, and a lot of tourists are coming in here too. I don't want to spend too much time here, but I thought I'd just bring you in here for a second. Right outside of the Inari Shrine is the outer market. Let's take a walk down the street. This is the gate to the inner market right there, and now we're going to move to the outer market. Take a right.

00:25:18 John Daub: All right. Call me Dusty Ninja—love the videos and live streams. Thank you very much. Put that towards the sushi money for Tuesday. I'm going to be definitely getting some sushi, and I'll be back here on Tuesday to spend some time. This is the outer market to Tsukiji. Lots and lots of boxes. You can see that, and they sell more than fish. There's that—looks like pumpkin, kabocha. So they sell more than fish, and you can see here there's a lot of movement. Yeah, packing—interesting.

00:26:02 John Daub: So you can see the shelves are empty. Do you see that? The shelves are empty. They're putting it away and they're moving these out. Wow, it's empty. Check out the empty spaces. A lot of empty spaces inside of the shops. So the shops seem to be relocating or moving. They kind of are getting a sense that business has been dropping, I guess, and it doesn't look promising without the fish market. All the tourist traffic to the market is going to be going to Toyosu—that's for sure. So that also means like a lot of the tourist stuff probably is going to be moving too. You can see those magnets and little stuff like that—trinkets a tourist would buy, some chopsticks and bowls—but that's all moving because there's no more tourists.

00:27:12 John Daub: Wow, and you can see—check it out—they're just like a lot of stuff is being torn down. They're just removing everything from the inside of the shops. And I guess eventually these shops will become—these shops here in the outer market will be torn down. And then I bet you the property is so valuable they're going to put high-rise apartments here. It's hard to say for sure what they're going to do with this. But if you can see behind me, these are like shacks—you see them taking some of the stuff out, probably going to be disposing it, destroying those buildings and putting up some new building there. You know, before the 2020 Olympics, and this is just part of the nature of Tokyo. Nothing really sticks around for a long time.

00:27:57 John Daub: There I am right there, the shadow. You can see a big fish. I wonder if they're going to sell this fish. Anyone want to buy fish? This is versus you shop here on the corner, and the sushi shop is not going anywhere. Hey, Cecil—thank you very much. Watching your live streams just makes me want to buy a ticket right now and go to Japan. Welcome. Please do. We get a lot of people coming to Japan right now before the Olympics, and there's a really exciting vibe—just not much excitement here though. A lot of people are relocating. There's another moving truck in the distance. Hey, Joanne—use me for yummy food. I will be using this for yummy food, trust me. You know, and if I could find some street food or something to eat, maybe I'm going to pick something up. But right now just see a lot of moving. Check it out—let's go take a look at this moving truck.

00:28:58 John Daub: Usually on the weekend, this kind of activity does not exist. This place is just really quiet or full of tourists. But today, tons and tons of trucks. Use the money to battle Godzilla—nice idea, Chris. Oh, check it out—he's washing. It looks like he's moved all the stock out. He's moved all of his stock out, and now he's, I guess, getting ready for the move to Toyosu as well. He's washing it down. So we're live in Tsukiji Market and just kind of walking the streets as the market moves to Toyosu just to see how everything is shaping up. I like to think of this as a historical reference in the future. Maybe we'll look back at this video and go, "So that's what Tsukiji Market was like on moving day."

00:30:18 John Daub: Anyways, on moving day. I will take the fish, writes Gretchen. Gretchen, I think it's going to be hard to send it to you. You're going to need a bigger box—it's a Jaws reference: you're going to need a bigger boat. So let's walk a little bit further from the entrance, make our way this way. Once again, I'll be back here on Tuesday for some action, some fish action. Going to be making a sushi episode. Check out those guys. A lot of shops are closed. It's hard to say if it's because it's a weekend or just because there's no action. So you're going to walk now through the outer market, which is still open. There are a lot of people here. This is where the outer market officially kind of starts, and you can see people are open. They're selling stuff. There's a lot of tourists here, a lot of visitors. There's a lot of hungry people. I could smell the sushi, the vinegared rice.

00:32:02 John Daub: Let's go down a little bit down the street and then we'll make a right down one of the alleys to see how they're doing. There's some taco. One of the things that left us with the closing of the market—it's sad too. The first Yoshinoya—you guys know beef bowl? Yoshinoya is a big now international brand for beef bowl. And the first Yoshinoya was inside of Tsukiji Market, and I asked about this. All of the fishermen don't want to eat fish. They spend their days with fish—they fish it out of the sea, they look at fish, they smell fish, they smell like fish. The last thing they want to eat is fish. So what did fishermen want to eat? They would eat gyūdon or ramen—they would eat anything but fish. And that was one reason why the beef bowl Yoshinoya started in the 1930s here inside of the Tsukiji Market. And that one inside the inner market is now closed, sadly. Yesterday was the last day to go to the Tsukiji Yoshinoya. And yeah, that's sort of the history behind the beef bowl—they just didn't want to eat fish. I mean, would you want to eat fish every single day? Look at it, smell it—it's kind of hard to live the fish life.

00:33:41 John Daub: Toby is responsible for this, writes Reverend900. I'm coming to Japan in November—bad to see it go before. But yeah, you know, it is bad if you didn't get a chance to see it. But on the bright side, I think the new Toyosu Market will be able to handle the traffic a little bit better. I'll tell you something: visiting Tsukiji Market was always a little bit tough. It was stressful because there was so much traffic and it was just chaos. And the thing with outside visitors was that it kind of added this X factor where accidents could happen because you kind of understood the pattern of stuff. It's like the highways in Mumbai—there's no lines on the roads in India. So people are just weaving, and then you throw in somebody from the United States driving in India—it's just chaos because they have no idea how the ecosystem of driving in India goes. It was the same thing when the tourists came into Tsukiji—they really didn't know how it worked.

00:34:41 John Daub: You get a hon maguro don for... I live here. You live here? Yes. Okay. You get a hon maguro don on rice for about $25, but that's with miso soup. I guess this is pretty reasonable—I mean, for Tsukiji. It doesn't get better than this, right? So the outer market seems to be buzzing. Are you recording? Yes. Are you doing live? I'm not doing live. I'm a YouTube fan from Italy. Oh, buongiorno. Buongiorno. Hi. Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you too. Naima? Naima. Nice to meet you, Naima. Nice to meet you. Yeah. I'm right now introducing the market. This is the last day—well, yesterday was the last day. But this is the... Yeah, everything... It's sad. It's very sad. How long are you visiting Japan for? I'm visiting Japan for two weeks. Oh, wow. Okay. Awesome. You had the last dream. It's kind of sad. Did you get to see the market? No. Did you get to go inside the market? No? That's too bad. I have some good memories in there, but it's very crazy. So you're staying here for two more weeks? For three? Yeah. So you can go next week to the new market. Oh, careful. Yeah. On the 11th, I think. It'll be crowded, but maybe we'll go. What are they selling here? It's nice to meet you. Thanks for saying hi. Thank you. Bye-bye. Bye. Have a nice day.

00:36:48 John Daub: So let's see what they're selling. Whoa. I guess they're not selling this. All right, he's selling the last of his stock, I think. He's doing it pretty reasonable, so there's a line. Wow. I'm going to go to the market. Whoa. What? He's just getting rid of his stock. So he's got all this stuff in boxes, and he's just getting rid of it at really cheap prices. Gretchen, you want me to send you some of this? He said you could put it into the freezer. Wow. How you doing? Last of the stock. Everything must go. That's it. I'm sorry. I'm sorry. I'm sorry. Oh, no. He lost one. I'll ask. I'll just ask. I'm just curious. He's saying 600 yen. What? That's really cheap. So that was... So this in the bag is 2,800 yen, which is actually hon maguro, so that's cheap. That's really cheap for hon maguro. Wow. He's saying last one, last one. Oh my word. Oh my word. That's a lot of negitoro. That's minced tuna. Wow, he's really packed that in there. Wow. It's good till tonight. Just put it in the freezer or the refrigerator. Oh sorry. He said that if you put it in the freezer it's good for a month. He just said. Hey Carlos Mitra, get some clearance fish. Yeah. I don't know Carlos, I don't know if I'm gonna get some clearance fish. But I appreciate that Carlos.

00:39:50 John Daub: Alright, let's see how much this is. This is a lot of fish. Let's see how much this is gonna be. What do you guys think? Let's see how much he's got here. He's putting a lot of force to close that down. That thing's gonna bust open. I guess he taped it down. He taped it down. There's so much in there. He taped it down. That's awesome. The news is right here in front of the stand where they're selling stuff on clearance. Thank Victor. Thank you. Thank you. I wish I could just get like one sushi. I don't really want to put a lot—we have a small refrigerator at home. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. The one reason I don't buy it is there's actually a long line. I was not in the front; I was just reporting on it. That's pretty crazy—you can see the action going on right there. It's neat to see.

00:42:37 John Daub: Hello! How you doing? Good! Live stream, eh? Yeah, we got 700 watching. Oh, that's cool. What's your name? Matt! Oh, hey Matt! How you doing? Where you from? Amsterdam. And are you sad too about Tsukiji Market closing? Yeah, I'm pretty sad. It's moving eastward, right? Yeah, it's moving to Toyosu. It's about 2km that way. But I'm not sure if all these people can fit or have a shop or can afford the new rent and all the other stuff. So it's kind of unsure what's going to happen. But I'm getting the feeling that this shop right here is closing down. But I'm not sure. Did you see the protests going on? No, where's that? The protest here, the whole vendors and... You can't protest progress, but I guess you can. Tokyo's got a history of moving the fish market around. It moved like 4 or 5 times. It moved here in 1935 because of an earthquake in 1923. And now they're moving... I'm here specifically to try the uni ink bun. Oh wow, no. It's like this crazy... I don't know where you see contraptions. I don't know, where would that be? But it's probably around here. I just wonder if it's still open because of all this stuff closing down. Oh yeah. Are they closing this entire area? This is the outer market. No, actually the outer market will be fine. But I think they're closing down because this is their stock. They cannot get any more from this market. Oh. So the sushi shops will be able to get the sushi from Toyosu starting on the 11th. The new market opens up on the 11th. But I believe for them, their business was based on getting it fresh, like walking here. And now to go there and back and forth, maybe makes it harder for them to operate. It doesn't make sense to operate here. Is it far away though? Like how many kilometers would that be? Actually, if you just take the Harumi-dōri, you just go straight and you're in Toyosu. Oh, okay. So it's just like 2 kilometers I think. That's doable. But for somebody, like I was saying earlier in this livestream, like Jiro, Jiro Sushi. Yeah. He's 90 something, 98 or 100. Oh, he likes sushi! Yeah. He would take his bicycle here and now what's he gonna do? He's gonna ride another 2 or 3 kilometers to the market. Yeah, that must be painful for him. Well, he seems like he's in pretty good shape still, eh? Yeah.

00:45:24 John Daub: Hello. Hello. What are you doing? I'm asking a foreigner, well, until next week, right? So I'm asking a foreigner, what's going on? Is there a market out there? Do you have work yet? Do you have a restaurant yet? I don't know. What are you gonna do with this area? Tsukiji will stay here. You think? It should still be there. I want him to keep promoting this area. But a foreigner or a tourist isn't coming here, right? No, but they should come here because there's a restaurant here and it's kind of fun. You can't get in here, so they should come here to promote it. It's convenient, right? If you go to Ginza, this is very convenient. So the shop will stay open in the restaurant store? Keep serving sushi. I don't think anything's really going to change with the outer market, but I do get a feeling that right now there's a lot of uncertainty.

00:46:37 John Daub: Right, so you can't go to that store, right? That's right. That's a pity. So because it's a physical center, you can't have regular customers or tourists come in like this. So please tell them to come in this way. That's right. Yeah, it's like 750 people. It's run by the city, so the result is that the businesses have to adjust to that reality now. So if you do come into Tokyo, what he's saying is still come, ne? Kitte kudasai. Keep supporting your local vendor. Yeah, keep coming. Keep supporting the local vendors here. As you can see, a lot of these shops here have been here for a long time. A lot of these buildings here have a long history.

00:47:34 John Daub: He's really selling that. Crazy boy! Crazy boy! Super crazy boy! You've tried that one? Yeah, I've had it before, yeah. It's mentaiko. Yeah, mentaiko. Mentaiko is like spicy fish roe—it's really good. Yeah, it's good. Wow. That mentaiko is from the market, right? From here. There's a crazy boy in Tsukiji. Crazy boy? Crazy boy. That's cheap. It's 1500 yen right now, right? 500 yen price. Oh, 500 yen. No price. 500 yen. You can't eat that much. Crazy boy. Crazy boy. He's... You're from the channel, right? Crazy boy. Oh, yeah. Hi. How you doing? Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you. I actually saw your channel before I came here. Oh, really? I saw your video. Awesome. When I was passing by, I'm like... I've seen that guy somewhere. Nice to meet you, man. Yeah, where you from? New York. From New York. New Yorker in the house. New York. Wow. I see you guys. Yeah. Hey. Thanks for coming to Tsukiji. The market's closed. I know. But it's kind of neat to kind of keep the local businesses going and stuff. Hey, if you want some cheap tuna and fish eggs... Yeah. You can get on that, right? No. No. It's my first time here. Yeah. You should get some here if you're hungry. Yeah. It's like 15 bucks per small. It's doable. You can't buy it. It's too expensive. Yeah, but you just have to try a lot of it. It's a little bit expensive, right? Yes. You don't have to sell it. They're not selling a little bit; they're selling enough to put in a refrigerator for a month. You're not putting it in a fridge. No, no. The flavor is going to deteriorate fast. Yeah, you have to eat it pretty fast. I don't think you can freeze this. He's yelling, "Crazy boy, crazy boy." This is how we do it. Getting people to buy all of the stock before they close. So if you are in Tsukiji and you really like mentaiko, please come here right away. You're going to have a lot of mentaiko for an entire army. I'm going to continue eating. Okay, all right, brother. Good to see you. Yes, you're nice. Do you have a YouTube channel? I do, man. All right, go ahead, plug it away for all of us. Oh, I will plug it away. Yeah, if you want to see my Tsukiji fish market adventure here, it's probably not as good as the man himself. No, don't say that. But yeah, check out Reformat on YouTube. Re-for-mat. All right. With two Ts. Reformat with two Ts. Yeah, it may be interesting. It may be interesting. All right. Yeah, thank you very much. You're very welcome. It's an honor to meet you. No. Let's take a photo together. Sure, sure. Can't forget that. You want to be in the photo, you guys? Yeah, let's all be in the photo. All right, how does that look? No, not really. Let's try another one. Okay. All right. All right. Kreshi boy. That's how it's done. That's how you do it. All right, guys. Have a great morning. Take care. Good luck on your search. Thank you. I'm searching. Yeah. He's searching for a bun with uni and squid ink.

00:51:01 John Daub: So crazy boy is now getting rid of all of his stock. Now the pigeons have come in for the action. This seems to be the most buzzing place in the outer market today. Even the pigeons can smell dinner. Hey, watch out—there's a truck coming. Get out of the way. He made it. I'm going to show you some mentaiko. Okay? Okay? I'm going to show you. Where in the country? America. America? But he lives nearby. Mentaiko. Oh, this is mentaiko, guys. This is mentaiko—the spicy fish roe, fish eggs. How much is this? 2,000 yen. He is crazy boy. This is crazy boy right here. Crazy boy is right here. And this is ridiculously cheap. He is saying 1,500 yen, 2,000 yen—which is so, so cheap actually. Cheap cheap. That's a lot of mentaiko. So what are you doing next week? We are going to open our stores. Oh, you are going to open your stores? How long have you been here? 7 years. 7 years they had a shop here. Everything here is on sale. Oh. So if you are in Tokyo and you want some mentaiko, definitely come here. He is getting rid of everything at a ridiculously cheap price because he is crazy boy. This is the history folks. 2,800 yen. 2,800 yen. 2,800 yen. 2,800 yen. Ok 2,800 yen. 8,800 yen. 8,800 yen. Yeah, wonderful. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Alright, it's sad to see them go, but it's kind of fun at the same time to celebrate it with going. A lot of people are taking pictures. This is the day that Tsukiji market closes, and some of the businesses in the outer market are selling their stock at fire sale prices. Thank you.

00:53:41 John Daub: Alright, let's keep walking around, check out a little bit more. Now let's go this way—we haven't gone this way yet. He's saying half price. Now he's saying more than half price. So these are some of the deals that you can get. There's another shop that's still open. A lot of them are getting rid of their... It is sort of a sad day, but it's not like we didn't know that it was coming. The move was delayed by over a year and a half. So people could see it. And I think that was good that they kind of delayed the move a little bit—maybe not for some of the people, but the mayor, Koike-san, who's the mayor of Tokyo, made a pretty bold move and delayed it because she told of contamination in the new spot. But it took them a long time to decontaminate it, and now it's okay. But I'm glad that was not a very popular political move to delay the move. But you do what you gotta do.

00:54:43 John Daub: So we're now on the busiest street of the outer market. And we saw the inner market—they no longer allow people to go in there. That inner market closed on September 30th—the public. And now you need a permit to go in there. But you can still see that there's still a lot of businesses here selling kaisendon. These are some good looking kaisendon. And these will still be here. These shops will still be here. So if you do come to Tokyo, maybe you still want to make a trip here just to have kaisendon. The fish is going to be coming from the market just as fresh as it was before. And I've always said that Tsukiji is a good place to get sushi out here. But this wasn't the only place. All of the fish sellers, all of those from around the city would come to the same place. So even if you were in Ikebukuro, which is on the other side of the city, you're still getting pretty much the same fish. You are getting the same fish. So just because the market moved two kilometers away, that doesn't mean anything less.

00:55:36 John Daub: This is Sushi Zanmai. And that right there is the guy, the president of Sushi Zanmai, who buys the most—the first tuna of the year. He pays several hundred thousand dollars for it. And he has several branches around Tokyo and Japan. Wow. So you got fresh sushi here: maguro, kai, anago, uni, ikura, sweet shrimp and egg for 3000 yen. Nigiri set. Oh, it's gorgeous. And the shop's pretty busy. So yeah, business goes on.

00:56:22 John Daub: Alright, so whenever there's a crowd like this, there's something interesting going on. So let's take a look, okay? Something's happening. Something's happening. Oh, he's carving it. Oh. You have to go. Fear. Right now, I am your eyes and ears. Hear me now and believe me later: that there is a tuna. And they've now pretty much carved it all up. So you still see—so you can see the tuna making its way here to be sold. And you can see down there the heeyasu has mentaiko. I think it's a better deal to buy it in the other spot. And you can see the big blocks of tuna. Do you guys see that? That's akami. The deep red color is akami. And maybe a little bit of chūtoro on the side there. They will clean all of the meat out, which is good. They don't waste anything. And that ends up being put into something like this—like negitoro. Pretty cool.

00:58:06 John Daub: So the outer market is still buzzing, guys. If you are in Tokyo right now, not to worry. You'll still have sushi and that kaisendon. One of my favorite foods is kaisendon. It's just like—here's some good kaisendon here. It's just an amazing mix of, I guess it's a fish salad essentially in English—amazing mix of different seafood on a bed of rice. It's very colorful. And each one is special. But I guess it's the weekend. Some of the shops are closed and some of them are open. So you can see some of the sights and sounds that haven't changed.

00:59:12 John Daub: Alright guys, there you go. There's the sushi Tsukiji Market end of the road episode. Moving day. What did I learn? What did we learn? I'll wrap this up. We learned that the market will stay in business. We learned that... not everything is fish here. We learned that it is moving. There are lots of boxes, lots of movement, lots of things. It looks like the shop is moving as well—Edo-ya, Umi, I can't see the name. So they're moving the stuff here. That's a big cat. And there's Sushi Zanmai. There's the president. I once caught a fish this big. I think it was bigger than that.

01:00:19 John Daub: So what did we learn? We learned that yesterday was the last day for Tsukiji Market to be open. And today is the day that all the moving starts. The new market in Toyosu opens up on October 11th. But the outer market is still going to be here. And the sushi places will still be serving some delicious sushi. Sushi Zanmai is still in business. We'll see you again on Tuesday. I'll be here on Tuesday for the interview. Thank you.

01:01:24 John Daub: It makes it a lot more fun. Ginza is this way, guys. Ginza is a straight shot. And we walked... There you go. And we walked from that way. That is Kachidoki Bridge. Alright everybody, have a good day, good night, wherever you are in the world. Oh, there's Kachidoki Bridge. There's the bridge right there. That's where we started. Bye bye to Tsukiji Market. Hello to Toyosu. We'll go in there and take a look around as soon as the opportunity presents itself—sometime in October. So then you can get an idea. You know, a lot of people are planning their vacations to Tokyo, planning it to Japan. And you want to eat fish and you want to go to the fish market. I'm interested too. I'm kind of curious too. How is it going to change? And I can kind of get the vibe that a lot of the shops here don't have a place in the new market. They've got to end their businesses—like the mentaiko place that we saw there. He just can't get a place to sell his mentaiko anymore. But Tsukiji... Tsukiji will keep going on. Because you see... Tsukiji is older than the market. Tsukiji goes back centuries. Tsukiji is going to be okay. Tsukiji Market? Different story.

01:02:44 John Daub: Alright everybody, bye. Thank you so much for the support. Hit the like button if you like this kind of content. And if you like fish and you like sushi, hit the like button twice. Wait, that would cancel out your like. Just hit the like button once. Make sure you subscribe because... because it's better as a community, right? There you go. Say goodbye to Tsukiji Market, everybody. Thanks Gretchen. I don't think that cat will make it through customs. Or the fish. Bye everybody. Bye.

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