Only in Japan Go — Transcripts
Summaries + full diarized transcripts
2018-10-08 · Ep 353 · 1h 28m

Japan's Best Autumn Spots and Things to do

TokyoHokkaidoTochigiKanagawaKyotoNaraWakayamaIshikawaNaganoNiigataToyamaFukuiAkitaFukushimaTottoriGifuAomoriYamagataShigaOitaKumamotoEhimeKagoshimaIwateHiroshimaautumn foliagetravel tipsday tripsfood
Summary

Japan's Best Autumn Spots and Things to do

Overview

In this live stream from October 2018, John Daub addresses the surge of questions regarding the best places to visit in Japan during autumn. As the summer heat fades and October begins, the country transitions into koyo (autumn foliage) season. John breaks down the progression of autumn colors, which move from north to south—contrary to cherry blossoms—and offers strategic advice for travelers looking to experience the season without getting lost in crowds.

The discussion covers a wide geographic range, starting from Hokkaido's Daisetsuzan National Park where autumn arrives earliest, down to day trips from Tokyo like Nikko, Hakone, and Kamakura. John highlights specific gardens within Tokyo, such as Rikugien, before moving to the Kansai region, comparing the crowded tourist circuits of Kyoto with quieter, rustic alternatives in Wakayama and the mountains. He also details the culinary side of autumn, featuring seasonal ingredients like matsutake mushrooms, kuri (chestnuts), and yaki-imo (roasted sweet potatoes).

The session concludes with a Q&A segment where John answers viewer questions about rail passes, language learning strategies, earthquake frequency, and even the best city to live in Japan. Whether you are planning a trip for November or just curious about seasonal life in Japan, this stream provides a comprehensive guide to making the most of autumn.

Highlights

  • 00:03:20 John explains how autumn colors move from north to south, unlike sakura.
  • 00:04:38 Detailed breakdown of Tokyo day trips: Nikko, Hakone, and Kamakura.
  • 00:09:46 Rikugien Gardens revealed as John's number one spot inside Tokyo.
  • 00:13:28 Kansai vs. Kyoto: Finding solitude in Wakayama and lesser-known temples.
  • 00:22:12 Autumn food guide: Chestnuts, sweet potatoes, and pumpkin specialties.
  • 00:25:52 The significance of matsutake mushrooms and winter hot pots (nabe).
  • 00:35:21 Mount Takao: The world's most hiked mountain near Tokyo.
  • 00:38:33 Viewer-voted top spots including Eikando, Tofukuji, and Oze National Park.
  • 01:05:15 Q&A: Language learning tips and rail pass advice.
  • 01:21:16 John names Hiroshima as the best city to live in Japan.

Timeline / Chapters

  • 00:00:01 Introduction: Autumn season overview and live stream welcome.
  • 00:01:31 Seasonal transition: Halloween marketing and end of summer.
  • 00:03:20 Geography of autumn: Hokkaido and color progression.
  • 00:04:38 Tokyo Day Trips: Nikko, Hakone, Kamakura pros and cons.
  • 00:09:46 Inside Tokyo: Rikugien Gardens and illumination.
  • 00:13:28 Kansai Region: Kyoto crowds vs. hidden temples.
  • 00:19:24 Nara and Wakayama: Hiking and solitude.
  • 00:21:03 Central Japan: Nagano, Niigata, and the Sea of Japan side.
  • 00:22:12 Autumn Food: Harvest ingredients and street food.
  • 00:28:32 Personal Favorites: Fukushima, Mount Daisen, and night trains.
  • 00:35:21 Mount Takao: Accessible hiking near Tokyo.
  • 00:38:33 Top Spots List: Viewer recommendations and John's additions.
  • 00:52:19 Kyushu, Shikoku, and Tohoku: Regional highlights.
  • 01:05:15 Q&A Session: Language, passes, and earthquakes.
  • 01:21:16 Best City to Live and closing remarks.

Japan Travel Tips

  • Timing: Autumn colors start in Hokkaido (late September) and move south, peaking in Kyoto/Tokyo mid-to-late November.
  • Transport: For Tokyo day trips, the Tobu Line to Nikko is cheaper than the Shinkansen. Consider regional passes like the Tokyo Wide Pass (¥10,000/3 days) instead of a full JR Pass if staying local.
  • Crowds: Popular spots like Kyoto's Philosopher's Path are extremely crowded. Seek lesser-known temples in the outer rings or mountains (e.g., Jingoji Temple) for solitude.
  • Hiking: Mount Takao is accessible via train ($4) and offers a casual hike with street food. Go early to beat crowds.
  • Accommodation: Consider staying overnight in cabins or ryokan (traditional inns) in mountain areas like Wakayama or Fukushima to relax after summer.
  • Food: Look for seasonal menus featuring matsutake mushrooms, kuri (chestnuts), and yaki-imo (roasted sweet potato).

Japanese Language & Culture Notes

  • Momiji (Maple Leaves): The primary symbol of autumn foliage (koyo). Momiji specifically refers to maple leaves turning red.
  • Seasonal Marketing: Halloween has become a major marketing event in October since about 2010, filling a gap in the calendar between summer and winter holidays.
  • Food Culture: Autumn is considered one of the best seasons for food (shokuyoku no aki). Ingredients like matsutake are prized like truffles.
  • Language Learning: John recommends learning katakana first (used for foreign words on menus) to build interest, then hiragana. Think in Japanese syllables (consonant-vowel).
  • Earthquakes: In Tokyo, minor earthquakes occur frequently (every couple of weeks); locals are accustomed to them.

Food & Drink Guide

  • Kabocha (Pumpkin): Used in pastries, cakes, pies, and soups during autumn.
  • Kuri (Chestnuts): Often labeled as marron (French) on menus. Found in pastries, cakes, pies, soups, and as ramen toppings.
  • Yaki-imo (Roasted Sweet Potato): Street-side staple. Varieties include satsuma-imo and beni-imo (purple). Also found in cheesecakes and McDonald's milkshakes.
  • Matsutake (Mushrooms): Fragrant and expensive, often imported from Canada. Steaming rice with matsutake smells like autumn.
  • Nabe / Sukiyaki / Oden: Hot pot dishes that start simmering in late fall, using fish stock and various ingredients.
  • Ayu Fish: Street food available at Mount Takao.

People

  • John Daub: Host and creator of Only in Japan Go. Provides expert commentary on travel, food, and culture based on 30+ years of living in Japan.
  • Kevin Riley: Mentioned as a friend (Kuma's Kitchen channel) who knows spots in Wakayama.

Key Takeaways

  • Autumn foliage moves from north to south, allowing for a long season of viewing across the country.
  • While Kyoto is beautiful, it is intensely crowded; exploring surrounding prefectures like Wakayama or Nara offers a more peaceful experience.
  • Autumn is a critical season for food culture in Japan, with specific ingredients available only during this time.
  • Regional rail passes often offer better value than the nationwide JR Pass for focused trips.
  • Hiroshima is highlighted as an ideal city for living due to weather, food, walkability, and safety.

Notable Quotes

  • 00:01:31 "Summer kind of ends on September 1st—even though it's still hot—the beaches close and summer celebrations stop instantly."
  • 00:04:38 "For autumn leaves, you need a car—rent one if you can... driving Japan's roads for autumn colors is the best."
  • 00:09:46 "Rikugien Gardens is number one. Surrounded by neighborhoods, it's an oasis with a lake and man-made island—illuminated at night like Disneyland for nature."
  • 00:13:28 "Two Kyotos: touristy vs. outer ring for unique photos."
  • 00:25:52 "Mushrooms everywhere—matsutake (fragrant, expensive like truffles... steaming rice smells like autumn)."
  • 01:05:15 "Japanese lessons: flashcards for katakana first (read menus, foreign words build interest), then hiragana."
  • 01:21:16 "Best to live: Hiroshima (weather, food, people, walkable, safe)."

Related Topics

  • Cherry Blossom Season Guides
  • Tokyo Day Trip Itineraries
  • Japanese Seasonal Food Specialties
  • Rail Pass Comparison Guides
  • Kyoto Temple Walking Tours

Search Tags

#only-in-japan-go #tokyo #kyoto #autumn #koyo #travel-guide #japan-food #onsen #hokkaido #nikko #hakone #kamakura #rikugien #matsutake #yaki-imo #live-stream #john-daub #hiroshima #wakayama #nara


Full Transcript

00:00:01 John Daub: Good evening everybody. Welcome to another live stream. This is Tokyo, Japan. This is the Only in Japan Go channel. I am John Daub. This is the show. I've been getting more and more questions about the best places to visit in autumn. Since we're now in the beginning of October, the leaves are going to start changing here. The weather is turning from the summer heat. I live in the city of Tokyo, so I can feel it gradually getting cooler. Autumn is a completely new season and a different experience for visitors to Japan. Hey, welcome to everybody joining us on this live stream. I'm going to go over some top spots to visit here in Japan during autumn, but also take some of your questions. If you have stories to share or places you've visited in autumn, leave them in the chat or comments below.

00:01:31 John Daub: Autumn in Japan starts from the beginning. Summer kind of ends on September 1st—even though it's still hot—the beaches close and summer celebrations stop instantly. September is a transition month. Once October hits, you start to feel Halloween with jack-o'-lanterns, Dracula, Frankenstein—all the Western stuff in the shops. This marketing frenzy started about eight or nine years ago because October had little to celebrate, so marketers latched onto Halloween. If you haven't been to Japan in 10 years, you'll be surprised—it's everywhere now.

00:03:20 John Daub: Travelers ask: best places for day trips from Tokyo or Osaka? Let's start there, then look at the whole country. This is Google Earth, which I love. Autumn colors move from the top down, unlike sakura which go from south to north. Up in Hokkaido's Daisetsuzan National Park near Asahikawa—one of my favorites—autumn has already started.

00:04:38 John Daub: Day trips from Tokyo: Nikko, Hakone, Kamakura. Nikko is easily accessible from Asakusa on the Tobu Line for about $12—the cheapest way. Shinkansen is $40–50, or free with JR Pass. Pros: close, inexpensive, loads of history and culture. But for autumn leaves, you need a car—rent one if you can. Train station spots require buses or tours, which take time. There's a beautiful waterfall; buses go there, but it's stunning with crystal-clear skies and low humidity. Con: it's crowded like Disneyland—traffic jams, long lines. With a car, go off the beaten path; driving Japan's roads for autumn colors is the best.

00:07:40 John Daub: Hakone has stunning Mount Fuji views; Kawaguchiko (Lake Kawaguchi) and the Fuji Five Lakes are absolutely stunning, especially with momiji (maple leaves). Hakone has onsen and the Romancecar along the ocean. Kamakura is an easy train ride—hiking, temples, shrines like Kyoto. Ancient capital, older culture, close to Tokyo, Great Buddha—explodes with color in November (later than Nikko or Kawaguchiko at elevation).

00:09:46 John Daub: Inside Tokyo: Meiji Shrine, Ueno Park, Yoyogi are beautiful, but Rikugien Gardens is number one. Surrounded by neighborhoods, it's an oasis with a lake and man-made island—illuminated at night like Disneyland for nature. Not far from Yamanote Line at Komagome, near Ueno and Imperial Palace. Peaks second week of November, depending on weather—like sakura.

00:13:28 John Daub: In Osaka/Kansai: Nara, Himeji Castle—Kansai wins for beauty but is crowded, driven by Kyoto. Thousands of temples/shrines like Higashiyama (Kiyomizu-dera, Ginkaku-ji, Heian-jingu), Philosopher's Path—stunning canopy of leaves mid-November. Crowded due to tourism boom, but still beautiful. Avoid big spots; go to mountains, countryside, lesser-known temples in guidebooks—rustic, surrounded by color, crisp air, scent of fallen leaves. Two Kyotos: touristy (Philosopher's Path, Arashiyama) vs. outer ring for unique photos. Jingoji Temple—hour by bus, hike in, off-beaten-path real Kyoto.

00:19:24 John Daub: Nara is stunning—hike trails following deer into nature. For more, Wakayama mountains—ancient temples, no tourists. Kevin Riley (Kuma's Kitchen channel) knows spots there. Seek solitude, relax after crazy summer—get away from crowds, stay overnight in cabins.

00:21:03 John Daub: Tourist circuit like Takayama (Gifu), but try Nagano, Niigata, Toyama, Kanazawa/Fukui countryside on Sea of Japan (Nihonkai) side—late October, few tourists. Akita Prefecture too.

00:22:12 John Daub: Autumn means more than leaves—it's food. Pumpkin (kabocha), chestnuts (kuri or marron—French for kuri; in pastries, cakes, pies, soups, ramen toppings, roasted street-side). Sweet potatoes (yaki-imo, satsuma-imo, beni-imo purple varieties)—cheesecake, pie, McDonald's milkshake. Purple joins orange/brown for autumn colors. Harvest moon foods too—rice staple, big deal.

00:25:52 John Daub: Mushrooms everywhere—matsutake (fragrant, expensive like truffles; imported from Canada; steaming rice smells like autumn). Late fall: nabe, sukiyaki, oden simmering in fish stock. Autumn/winter best food months—binge on it all.

00:28:32 John Daub: Personal favorites: Rikugien for quick city walk to feel fall. Last year: Fukushima mountains (onsen, ryokan—not exclusion zone); Mount Daisen (Tottori)—extinct volcano like half-size Fuji, easy hike by Sea of Japan, drone-friendly. Returning soon for NHK Journeys in Japan. Off-beaten-path, night train (Sunrise Izumo).

00:35:21 John Daub: Mount Takao (Takao-san)—world's most hiked mountain near Tokyo ($4 train, over an hour). Go early to beat crowds; casual hike, street food (ayu fish), family-friendly—back to hotel quick if tired.

00:38:33 John Daub: Sites' top spots (thumbs up): Eikando Temple (Kyoto, mid-Nov); Tofukuji (bridge Tsutenkyo); Icho Namiki (Ginkgo Avenue near Meiji); Oze National Park (Fukushima, now—weekday hikes); Nasu Highlands (Fukushima); Daisetsuzan (Hokkaido, now); Kawaguchiko. Others: Mount Asahi (Hokkaido); Oirase Stream/Lake Towada (Aomori/Tohoku); Yamadera/Risshaku-ji (Yamagata); Kurobe Dam/Gorge (Toyama); Shōrūji (Shiga Zen garden); Kenroku-en (Kanazawa).

00:52:19 John Daub: Kyushu: Aso (Oita/Kumamoto hikes, onsen). Shikoku: Dogo Onsen (Matsuyama), Takamatsu park, inland nature—cheap flights from Narita. Yakushima: 3–5 days, mountain huts. Tohoku trains: steam engines near Lake Towada/Odate, Morioka-Akita—tunnels to autumn fireworks, nature comes to you. Sagano Scenic Railway (Kyoto, $6, Hozukyo Ravine).

01:05:15 John Daub: Q&A: Kanazawa's Kenroku-en top garden. Korean spas vs. Japanese bathhouses—haven't tried. Kumano Kodo pilgrimage (Wakayama to Ise/Koya-san, 7–9 days, now)—on list. Japanese lessons: flashcards for katakana first (read menus, foreign words build interest), then hiragana—think in Japanese syllables (consonant-vowel). 5 days: Tokyo +1 day trip (Nikko/Kamakura). Earthquakes: every 2 weeks in Tokyo, used to them.

01:21:16 John Daub: Best to live: Hiroshima (weather, food, people, walkable, safe). No American junk food cravings—home is where I am. Passes: regional like Tokyo Wide Pass (¥10,000/3 days Shinkansen) over full JR if limited area.

01:26:13 John Daub: Thanks for super chats, support—check comments/live chat/Patreon for more autumn tips/photos/stories. Live tomorrow at Tsukiji. Good night, everybody.

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