00:00:02 John Daub: Hello everybody, welcome to Yasukuni Shrine at Kudanshita Station. Kudanshita is the heart of Tokyo, and if you know the name Yasukuni, you know it's in the news quite a bit, especially today. Because what we have all around us are 30,000 summer lanterns, summer chochin (paper lanterns). And it's Obon season, meaning we're right now celebrating our family members that have left us. That's Obon season, and this is one of the biggest summer festivals in Tokyo. It starts off the Obon season from about mid-July to mid-August.

00:00:55 John Daub: We're gonna see how good the signal strength is. We are at a festival, and we're gonna take you through and see what you're missing, because you might be missing a lot. How you doing everybody? This festival started in 1948, right after World War II. And I'm guessing it was because we lost a lot of people during World War II. So it's nice to have this festival as a reminder of how far Japan has come as well. I'm gonna be walking the distance of Yasukuni Shrine all the way to the main shrine area. It's pretty amazing, and there's a lot of people here. This festival attracts about 150,000 people—some websites say several hundred thousand, but it's about 150,000 according to the shrine's data.

00:02:08 John Daub: This festival is also known as being a notorious pickup spot where guys will nampa (chat up) women to try to get dates. I guess it's the start of the summer; it would be the first opportunity. I'm just reading what the news reports say—I was a little surprised as well as you. All right, let's go take a look. There is some street food, so there might be a couple bites. Join me as we walk through past 30,000 chochin lanterns. You can actually buy these and donate them. The big ones cost 12,000 yen, a little over $100, and the small ones about 3,000 yen or $25-30. I guess you have to do that about a month in advance—they get 30,000 applicants pretty quick because it would be really cool to have your name on one.

00:03:17 John Daub: Then come by with your friends and go, "Hey, that's my lantern." A lot of young people are here—university students come for selfies or with friends to celebrate summer. It is really crazy; there's a lot of people, and the selfie patrol is here on the left and right. Everybody's taking selfies. The lanterns are absolutely beautiful. Now all the websites talk about this festival in English—they announce when it's going to be and where—but none tell you the history and why it takes place. So Obon is a time in Japan where people pay respect to the dead. We have the dances called Bon Odori (Obon dances). A lot of people go back home to visit family, to gravesites and pay respects—some families clean the cemetery. It's a time to remember the past.

00:04:47 John Daub: And this is a great way to do it—just all this light. It's around 7pm and the sun is just starting to go down, so you have some light in the sky. This festival takes place during the rainy season, and all day and yesterday it was raining, so you didn't get a lot of good shots this year. But in past years, every now and then you'll have the sun setting and the lanterns come on for such a beautiful view. We're now approaching the main shrine of Yasukuni, and you can see on the left and right these chochin are just beautiful—chochin means lanterns in Japanese. In a couple steps, I'm gonna turn this camera around and look back at where we've walked. Wow, it's quite amazing, but we still got a ways to go.

00:06:08 John Daub: If you are in Tokyo, you want to come to this festival—Kudanshita is the closest station, or you can go to Ichigaya on JR and it's a 10-minute walk. Everyone has their selfie cameras out—what was it like 10 years ago with no selfies? Probably a lot more subdued. Alright, let's get close to the lanterns. Wow. It costs to buy six of them—that's how you make an impact; buy 10 and spell your name, like J-O-H-N D-A-U-B. Check that out—Only in Japan. That would be awesome; I should do that next year. Then 150-200,000 people walk by—pretty good advertisement. Of course it's always better to be here in person; hard to really feel what it's like at any festival, but you can get an idea of the sights and sounds.

00:07:39 John Daub: So I'm just gonna stop talking for a while—some say I overtalk on these live streams. I'm gonna let you absorb what it's like at this festival through the sounds and sights on your own. Alright, so the last time I was here was for cherry blossoms about three months ago, and you can see these are all cherry blossom trees—but now they're just leaves, normal trees. You have to know they used to be sakura. It's so beautiful in spring as well as summer now. You're getting the full breadth of what Yasukuni Shrine is like—spring, summer, fall with changing colors, winter maybe with snow. We're now inside Yasukuni Shrine where the shrine is right in front of us. On the left and right, the festival doesn't stop—the entrance we walked through is really beautiful.

00:10:30 John Daub: You see little chochin inside. Let's walk through some and feel more of what this shrine is about. Of course this is a World War II shrine—you can see pilots and people memorialized, sometimes with flowers, sometimes written words. This one says arigato (thank you); this has sake—maybe to remember drinking sake. Really beautiful. Thankfully the rain has stopped—this is the end of rainy season. These are the smaller lanterns, guessing 3,000 yen each. NZ17, there is some street food, so we're gonna walk back around and check options. It's crowded inside the shrine area, but not as bad—this is the museum behind me, pretty interesting and controversial, but worth checking if you're in Tokyo for a better sense of Japan's history.

00:13:01 John Daub: Oh look at that cute little yukata (summer kimono)—kawaii (cute). There are rules: no alcohol—they used to allow it during cherry blossoms but banned it now. The website warns young people: if you're out of line, like this notorious pickup spot for guys nampa-ing girls, you'll get kicked out. Lots of authorities to keep it safe—so ladies are safe, and that means I'm pretty safe too. Alright, there are some tourists—glad people noticed this festival. If you're in Tokyo now, stop by—from 6:30pm till 8:30pm, only two hours these lanterns are on. This is the last day, the 16th—starts on the 13th, so three or four days. There's omikuji (fortune-telling slips) like at every shrine—love the summer yukata; this is the season.

00:15:26 John Daub: Yesterday was Marine Day holiday, and in a live stream I took you to Monzen-Nakacho, about 15 minutes by bike, a traditional neighborhood. Today is the last day of this festival—not technically a holiday, so less crowded than yesterday, even though it rained hard. This is the main shrine where people pray—more lanterns over there. Let's walk, then loop for street food. It says no photographing—alright, camera away. This is the event poster—no harm showing that. I do see guys trying nampa—afraid to swing the camera; saw a couple strike out. How could you not be moved by the brilliance of the lights? There's just enough sky light—the blue with orange-yellow lights is so beautiful.

00:17:42 John Daub: Over here, beautiful flower arrangements. Alright, now back to the center for street food—if you like that, hit like. If we get 300 likes, I might get something good—this is audience participation. The Only in Japan Go channel is about to pass 500,000 likes total—that's half a million; your like might be number 500,000. There aren't many live streams or videos on this festival, Mitama Matsuri (spirit festival)—this is a YouTube moment. After this gate, back in with big lanterns—not too crowded yet; early and raining all day. These are hardcore fans. We're short of 300 likes for street food—come on. After this gate, Lantern Town.

00:20:30 John Daub: Wow—from the stairs, a meter higher, great shot of people walking left and right. Quite a sight—you see the torii (shrine gate) up there. This is the Mitama Festival, part of Obon—started 1947, so 73rd time. Takes place 13th to 16th—history not super clear online, but as an Obon festival at a shrine, it's to remember lost family members. That should explain it. Kanai (Kanae Daub) is working, teaching ballet—she might join later. I've never been to this festival before. We're at 212 likes—short of street food threshold; throw a like. Now it's dark enough—look up, lights crossing from spotlights hitting low clouds. Not a laser show, but nice—maybe symbolic.

00:23:28 John Daub: Japan does great recycling—glass, plastic, burnable, non-burnable. Here's a spotlight—powerful lantern with generator. More selfies. Best seat in the house looks fun. Let's cross the street—normally full of traffic, but today Jedi knights direct. He's a Sith Lord with red lightsaber—the force is strong. Yasukuni used to have more street food and drinking, but when something happens, Japan bans everything—one person ruins it for all. Like the drone ban after one guy flew onto the PM's roof—they banned all drones for a year and a half.

00:26:12 John Daub: Welcome back—we're congested. Here's festival games—catch fish with paper scoop, hard for kids. Ring toss, cork gun—Doraemon in the middle. Rules on the tree: no drinking, no speakers, no drones. For new viewers, 30,000 lanterns at Yasukuni—afraid to go center with all cell phones killing signal. This back area is for eating—less crowded. Let's try center. Wow, lots of food—I'm the only one gimbal live streaming, getting attention: "Are you a YouTuber?" Yes, bringing the story to the world.

00:29:15 John Daub: Really crowded—don't know if I'll get food; lines insane, 10-15 minutes, not moving—not enough food for the crowd. Jaga butter (potato with butter), beef steak—smoke rising, looks good, smells good—long line though. Butter potatoes (butta jaga) most popular. Oh my, trapped—sea of people. Takoyaki (octopus balls) looks good—lines everywhere. Signal holding—love to but can't. Gotta go with the flow—holding gimbal like Olympic torch; everyone's looking. Found beer—longer line. Things I do for live streams—signal haywire here. Lesson: don't live stream food area—insanely crowded, took five minutes to escape.

00:35:21 John Daub: Worst human traffic in Tokyo this year—cherry blossoms were bad too. Japanese yukata—nice to see fashions like at fireworks; unique patterns, matching obi (sash) colors. Mix and match neat. Video breaking up? Refresh. Hello—how are you? Good. You're watching live? Crazy, huh? Really beautiful. Wanted bon odori (Obon dance)? It was earlier—maybe rain. Yesterday awa odori (Awa dance). From Portugal? Martin from Nosh—raided my stream before, staying in Roppongi. First time here—notorious pickup spot, guys striking out. Everyone behaves—shrine website warns out-of-control youth get removed. Good to see you, Martin.

00:38:50 John Daub: Don't know if I can get back in food area, but nice we looked before signal tanked—we hit 300 likes. Really beautiful and crowded—gonna walk around, end stream soon, find less crowded spot for signal. This center is for Bon Odori—summer dancing, but not today, maybe rain or crowds. They have dances like Nebuta from Aomori, Awa Odori from Tokushima Shikoku—made a video years ago; Japan's largest dance party. Now sun down, stunning—different than 30 minutes ago when trapped in food area. Trying for food but lines 10 minutes—not festival food from conbini (convenience store).

00:41:16 John Daub: If blurry, refresh—congested area. Yukata (summer cotton kimonos) less than expected. Gift shack not crowded. 5G will solve signal for Olympics next week—one year countdown. Sky was prettier 5-10 minutes ago, bit bright—brought out yellow lanterns. Mitama Matsuri—sacred area, be respectful, no yelling, selfies ok. Kid with lightsaber again. You're getting the idea now sun's down—we've streamed 45 minutes; different than earlier with deep blue sky and orange lanterns—cool/hot colors striking.

00:45:23 John Daub: Wide-angle lens here—hope you learned and enjoyed this meaningful Tokyo festival; Yasukuni festive in seasons. If not, like, subscribe, notifications on—only 15% have bell on "always," not "personal"—YouTube stats show it. More Jedi knights waving sticks—dangerous. Alright everybody, good day, good night wherever you are. Hope you enjoyed Mitama Festival—if in Tokyo, check it out.