Tokyo's Castle Town Day Trip Kawagoe Historical Walk
Tokyo's Castle Town Day Trip Kawagoe Historical Walk
Overview
John Daub takes viewers on a comprehensive day trip to Kawagoe in Saitama Prefecture, often referred to as "Little Edo" (Ko-Edo). Starting from Kawagoe Station, John and his wife Kanae walk approximately 25 minutes through modern shopping streets to reach the historical district. The video serves as a practical guide, showing exactly how to navigate from the train station to the main attractions without relying on buses.
Along the way, John highlights the contrast between modern Kawagoe and the preserved Edo-period architecture found in the castle town area. He explores the famous kura-zukuri (warehouse-style) buildings that survived a major fire in 1893, explaining the historical significance of the area. The walk is punctuated by numerous food stops, showcasing Kawagoe's specialty: sweet potatoes (imo), as well as local craft beer, traditional sweets, and street food.
This video is particularly useful for travelers looking for a manageable day trip from Tokyo. John provides real-time commentary on crowd levels, noting that weekends are extremely busy, and offers tips on what to eat, where to walk, and how to handle the logistics of visiting a popular tourist destination outside the capital.
Highlights
- 00:00:02 John introduces Kawagoe Station and the plan to walk to the historical area.
- 00:01:07 Overview of transport options: Tobu Tōjō Line from Ikebukuro.
- 00:03:05 Introduction to the "Little Edo" atmosphere and specialized tourist maps.
- 00:09:41 Walking through modern Kawagoe; noting famous manhole covers.
- 00:12:10 Discussion of Showa era vs. Reiwa era and local shopping streets.
- 00:21:14 Arrival at Ko-Edo Kurari; sake warehouse and street food options.
- 00:26:39 Trying yaki dango and observing traditional nōren curtains.
- 00:32:33 Entering the historical district; explanation of the 1893 Meiji fire.
- 00:50:52 Tasting hojicha and genmaicha ice cream.
- 01:05:12 Visiting the Clock Tower (Toki no Kane) and discussing crowd lines.
- 01:18:29 Enjoying smoked bacon and Koedo craft beer in an alley.
- 01:28:08 Final tips on visiting Kawagoe and avoiding weekend crowds.
Timeline / Chapters
- 00:00:00 Introduction at Kawagoe Station East Exit.
- 00:01:00 Transport details and Tourist Information Office.
- 00:05:00 Walking through the station mall and shopping street.
- 00:12:00 Discussion on Japanese eras (Showa/Heisei/Reiwa).
- 00:21:00 Ko-Edo Kurari facility and sake tasting.
- 00:32:00 Entering the historical warehouse district.
- 00:43:00 Street performances and cultural displays.
- 00:50:00 Ice cream tasting and crowd observations.
- 01:05:00 Toki no Kane Clock Tower and street food lines.
- 01:18:00 Lunch break with bacon and craft beer.
- 01:28:00 Conclusion and travel advice.
Japan Travel Tips
- Transport: Take the Yūrakuchō Line to Ikebukuro or Wakōshi, then transfer to the Tobu Tōjō Line to Kawagoe. The trip takes about 40-45 minutes from Ikebukuro.
- Walking vs. Bus: While buses are available from the station (noriba 1-6), John recommends walking (25 minutes) to see the transition from modern to historical areas.
- Crowds: Weekends are extremely crowded. John suggests visiting on a weekday if possible, or arriving early.
- Cash: Bring cash for street food vendors and smaller shops; not all accept cards.
- Maps: Pick up a free map at the Kawagoe Station Tourist Information Office (East Exit). They even have specialized maps for Muslim travelers.
- Manhole Covers: Keep an eye out for Kawagoe's intricate manhole covers; there is even a "manhole card" available for collectors.
- Restrooms: Use facilities at stations or major facilities like Ko-Edo Kurari before entering the crowded historical streets.
Japanese Language & Culture Notes
- Ko-Edo (Little Edo): Kawagoe's nickname due to its preserved Edo-period architecture and history as a castle town.
- Kura-zukuri: Traditional warehouse-style architecture with thick walls and tiled roofs, designed to be fire-resistant. Many buildings in Kawagoe were rebuilt in this style after the 1893 Meiji era fire.
- Shōtengai: Covered shopping arcades. John walks through a long shōtengai before reaching the historical district.
- Nōren: Traditional shop curtains hanging at the entrance of stores. John jokes about saying "nōren de gozaru" like a samurai.
- Era Names: John explains how Japanese people often reference birth years by era (Showa, Heisei, Reiwa). Reiwa 1 started in 2019.
- Itadakimasu: Phrase said before eating, meaning "I humbly receive."
- Kanpai: The Japanese equivalent of "Cheers."
Food & Drink Guide
- Sweet Potato (Imo): Kawagoe's specialty. Found in various forms: ice cream, chips, waffles, and ishiyaki imo (stone-grilled sweet potato).
- Yaki Dango: Grilled rice dumplings with soy sauce flavor. John tries one for 100 yen at 00:21:14.
- Hojicha & Genmaicha Ice Cream: Hojicha (roasted green tea) is low caffeine; Genmaicha (brown rice green tea) is slightly bitter. John rates them highly at 00:50:52.
- Koedo Beer: Local craft beer brewed in Kawagoe. John tries a Session IPA at 01:18:29.
- Smoked Bacon: Sold from a street vendor; John enjoys this with his beer in an alleyway.
- Senbei Takoyaki: A sandwich combining rice crackers and octopus balls; noted to have a long line at 01:05:12.
- Anko Manju: Steamed bun with sweet bean paste, sometimes combined with sweet potato.
- Amazake: Sweet, non-alcoholic sake drink available at sake warehouses.
People
- John Daub: Host and guide. Provides historical context, food reviews, and logistical advice. Enthusiastic about walking and exploring off-the-beaten-path details.
- Kanae Daub: John's wife. Joins the walk, assists with navigation (though prefers not to use Google Maps), and tries food items like ice cream.
Key Takeaways
- Kawagoe is a viable and rich day trip from Tokyo, offering a distinct historical atmosphere different from the capital.
- The walk from the station to the historical district is manageable (25 mins) and offers insight into local life.
- Weekend crowds can be overwhelming; weekdays are preferred for a relaxed experience.
- Sweet potato is the defining food theme of the region, available in almost every form imaginable.
- The architecture is largely reconstructed after an 1893 fire, but maintains historical authenticity in style.
Notable Quotes
- 00:00:02 "Hey everybody, welcome to Kawagoe in Saitama Prefecture. This is the Kawagoe Station east exit, and we're going to take you to the historical area."
- 00:03:05 "Welcome to Kawagoe, the town where the Edo atmosphere still lives on."
- 00:09:41 "Kawagoe has incredible manhole covers—I love them."
- 00:26:39 "Udon shop with nōren (shop curtains)—no-ren, say like samurai: nōren de gozaru."
- 00:32:33 "Big fire 1893 Meiji era burned third of city—rebuilt in this style, well-preserved."
- 00:50:52 "Hojicha roasted good, genmaicha bitter gritty—90/100, 9/10, 4.5/5 stars."
- 01:18:29 "Mission complete—bacon and beer, Japanese craft. Itadakimasu in heart."
- 01:28:08 "Amazing day trip—history outside Tokyo. See you next time."
Related Topics
- Tokyo Day Trips
- Edo Period History
- Japanese Street Food
- Saitama Tourism
- Craft Beer in Japan
- Traditional Architecture
Search Tags
#only-in-japan-go #kawagoe #saitama #little-edo #day-trip #street-food #sweet-potato #historical-district #edo-period #tobu-tojo-line #koedo-beer #japan-travel #tokyo-travel #foodie
Full Transcript
00:00:02 John Daub: Hey everybody, welcome to Kawagoe in Saitama Prefecture. This is the Kawagoe Station east exit, and we're going to take you to the historical area, which is about a 25-minute walk from here. There are buses, but before we go, let's show you how to get around from the station to the buses. If you come here and don't want to walk like we're doing, this is where you start. Get here on the Yūrakuchō Line, which cuts across Tokyo, then take the Tobu Tōjō Line from Ikebukuro or Wakōshi—the blue line right there. That'll take you the rest of the way. After arriving, buses go to the historical area. But I'm a DIY guy; I like to do it myself. Here's a map of the city—everything's laid out in the station, with a good tourist information center.
00:01:07 John Daub: Just take a right to bus stands 1 through 6—noriba (platform). You'll get to where we're walking. They have a free pass—well, 300 yen, pretty cheap. Kawagoe has 350,000 people; it's a big town, 40-45 minutes from Ikebukuro. The train station's cool and busy on weekends as a popular day trip from Tokyo. You can see the old castle town history. Stick with us for 20 minutes and you'll see it in real life. Oh, golfing event—the Olympics golf will be here, and there's a famous Japanese golfer from Kawagoe. This is the east exit; on the right's a famous golf club, left is the Kawagoe Station Tourist Information Office with English maps.
00:02:51 Kanae Daub: Did you get a map? In Japanese? Oh, is that a map? She got something.
00:02:58 John Daub: I have a map here. Kanae, the internet loves your new hairstyle.
00:03:03 Kanae Daub: Thank you so much.
00:03:05 John Daub: Welcome to Kawagoe, the town where the Edo atmosphere still lives on. I'm excited—lots of people here. They have special maps for everyone, like Kawagoe Ko-Edo (Little Edo) map for Muslims—never seen that before. Routes for everybody. Kanae, you chopped off your hair—or the guide did. Looks good.
00:03:43 Kanae Daub: Thank you.
00:03:50 John Daub: I'll put a map in the video description so you can walk or bus it yourself. We're starting from the station this way—right, Kanae? A few people are attempting the walk. The station area's under construction, probably finishing before the 2020 Olympics since golf events are here. Whoa, weird American banjo band—unusual events just happen in Japan. If you need 100-yen shop stuff, batteries, or clothes, Uniqlo, ABC Mart, Muji are in the mall. Band's on the second floor. Wendy's Japan has the USA burger—massive. Butter chicken curry too—Wendy's innovating.
00:05:35 John Daub: We're cutting through this mall, following the train tracks. Kanae doesn't use Google Maps—she's anti-Google. I think we're going right. Harry Lynn says the shopping street in front of the station is super long and nice. Gamer Pro, to the lovely couple—thanks. Michael Halbey, thank you. We're walking all the way for you. Need exercise—I ate a lot. Lotteria has cheese cheese cheese burger—triple decker under $9. Ricky Timmer, in love with the burger? This crowd knows where to go. Danny, hi John and Kanae—have a nice day trip. Thanks, Danny.
00:07:28 John Daub: By the way, we're doing two live streams today. After arriving and checking the town, maybe share lunch, show more. Stick around—we're hitting multiple time zones. Do we go this way or follow tracks? Let's go shopping route. Kanae has the map—what's the Muslim map? We're cutting through to the historical area—is this the shopping street? Download Google Maps—it's the best. Joshua Kalbick, no wonderful donuts, but cream brûlée donuts here—they're good. Kanae forgot to give one to her dad and ate it the next day.
00:09:41 John Daub: This is pretty local—350,000 population, not all tourists want the old castle town; they shop and eat. If watching playback, skip to 20 minutes ahead—we'll be at the castle town. To get there, go through modern Kawagoe. Mario's Hiking Adventures, thanks—your November Japan trip for birthday? Might do meetups—busy with Fukuoka, Osaka next week, maybe Tokyo before Christmas holiday or Osaka with Kevin Riley. Little tofu shop—backwards, tofu. Kawagoe's famous for sweet potatoes and tofu. Three doggies on YouTube—let's go before the owner gets upset. Kawagoe has incredible manhole covers—I love them.
00:12:10 John Daub: Dropped my map—this one's better, Kanae. Shopping street—wrong direction? Sweet potatoes—Saiken Pork Advo Chronicles says they're legendary. There's Kashiya Yokocho (Sweets Alley) with sweet potato beer, chips, ice cream, cakes, candy. Been to Kawagoe before? Station only for a job, never tourist areas. Long walk—thinking bus. Turning on turbos—run? Green tea Listerine—weird. Shōtengai (covered shopping arcades) famous in Showa era till 1989. You were born end of Showa—Showa 62. I'm Showa 49. People ask birthdates by era: Showa, Heisei, now Reiwa 1 (started this year). Good for residents.
00:15:33 John Daub: Lots of doggies in sweaters—this path to Castle Town, we believe. No tourist info yet, just shops—shopping street very long. Doodoo couple and gorilla child—only in Japan. Security guards. Benevale, food and drink fun—lunch in Castle Town. Almost lunchtime, didn't eat. Famous good restaurants. Yesterday's livestream—no wine indulgence like that big cup. Neat shop—old Coca-Cola signs, sushi for $9 nigiri tray. 885 people waiting for Castle Town—no actual castle, just old Edo warehouses (kura-zukuri style?). Jennifer's Caldy—products with her face. Hair salons look like cafes. Awful UFO catcher—use end-over-end or triangle method. Smelled hojicha (roasted green tea)—low caffeine, good at night; matcha loaded, shook for days after chugging a whole bowl at 1998 tea ceremony meant for seven.
00:21:14 John Daub: Little warehouse—quick look. Ko-Edo Kurari new attraction, street food. Sake warehouse—big barrels, tasting? No cameras inside. Tatami sake barrel. Kanae can drink amazake. Jonathan Lim, thanks for coins—on a mission, saving lunch. Nikuman? Tea. Ramen shop crowded—sweet potato ramen? Crazy. Off schedule, hungry, thirsty—iPhone 11 Pro on Osmo 3 gimbal, 720p HDR livestream. Google reviews say car traffic through pedestrian area stinks. Sweet potato ice cream preview. Google said 25 minutes, but walking discovers uniques like Akariya yaki dango—sharing one. Smells good, steaming, soy sauce flavor—not sweet, salty, 100 yen great.
00:26:39 John Daub: Yukata pretty—follow crowd. Udon shop with nōren (shop curtains)—no-ren, say like samurai: nōren de gozaru. Dana Berry, trip March-April 2020—gotta come. People stay left for cars. Crazy H. Rayson, first time Japan Wednesday, five-year anniversary—congrats! Great day trip. Dana during cherry blossoms—beautiful, but prefer May warmer weather. Road changed, more flags—rare in Japan. Retro Saitama Coke vending machine, bottle. Pretty shrine—hoop for praying. Foot massage—ouch, hurts but feels better after. From pain comes pleasure—well-earned lunch, paid by you guys.
00:32:33 John Daub: 34 minutes in—no map, by feeling and crowds. Scenery changed—no paved street, fewer modern stores, Showa-era mom-and-pops. Building historical despite Miraitowa (2020 Olympics mascot). Big fire 1893 Meiji era burned third of city—rebuilt in this style, well-preserved. Kawagoe tart—egg tarts with sweet potato. Hill Pines espresso smells good. Pizza with rice in Edo building. Sweet potato waffles. Steven Tice, extra for snacks. Miss Helly Beach, Kanae's hair fantastic—she wanted shoulder-length, but okay, just hair. Dewey Chan, keep it up. Austin, aloha. Okinawa shop—concert, flashy lights from 50Hz flicker (use 50p/PAL). Okinawan dance—peaceful, homage after Shuri Castle fire.
00:43:13 John Daub: Shops put on weekend performances—Cultural Day holiday tomorrow. Here at last—old warehouses, Tourist Information Center. Free Wi-Fi. Kura-zukuri (warehouse style). Unagi, tamago sando—delicate egg sandwich, long lines. Museum. Cars headache—close streets Sundays, take trains. Mameya (bean shop). Now surrounded by kura-zukuri. Hate buses/cars—awful. Looks like amusement park. Ishiyaki imo (stone-grilled sweet potato) truck smoky. Yakitori secret sauce long line. Smoke nostalgic—not in Tokyo. Rickshaws. Little sports car. Emo mushi pan. People eat roadside—close streets! Chain looking old. Crossed to food side—gifts, tatami/kimono ball 2000 yen nice gift.
00:50:46 Kanae Daub: Anything you like?
00:50:52 John Daub: She's hungry. David Kimura, snacks—bago pork rinds? Hojicha and genmaicha (brown rice green tea) ice cream double scoop. Lines bad Sundays—took Sunday-Monday weekends as teacher for empty Mondays. Pocket Wi-Fi unlimited but battery dies—need external. Hojicha roasted good, genmaicha bitter gritty—90/100, 9/10, 4.5/5 stars. Brain freeze—sensitive teeth, absorb don't bite. Eat in alleys. Kawagoe vending machine. Absorb vibe of kura-zukuri after 1893 fire. Connection lags in crowded countryside—moving for signal. Clock tower ahead—more dango. Okara (tofu lees) doughnuts smell good. Koedo craft beer—small Edo beer.
01:05:12 John Daub: Clock tower—bells at 12 and 3, typhoon Hagibis (19) damaged it. Long line for senbei takoyaki sandwich. Steamed sweet potato anko manju—unusual, good combo moistens dry potato. Tons street food—Koedo beer 380 yen, Starbucks in wood Edo-style with garden. No photos inside some shops. Lawson family sweet potato chips—45-minute double line insane, 600 yen. Better manhole covers—fire dept one cool. Avoid line—find manhole card. Deadline insane.
01:18:29 John Daub: Grilling bacon—smells good, who says no? Tim Lawson, bacon! Get for Lawson family—line shorter. Koedo session IPA (marihana)—small Edo beer, reasonably priced, popular in Tokyo. Chemical-free? Sometimes okay outside Tokyo—Kanae's rules. Daily tourist spot weekends busy. Eat in alley—smoked bacon good, kanpai! Mission complete—bacon and beer, Japanese craft. Itadakimasu in heart.
01:28:08 John Daub: Hit like—appreciate sticking through signal issues. Hour-and-a-half Kawagoe—you're ready: how to get here, walk, what's on way. Bring money for street food, prepare for weekend crowds—weekday better. Amazing day trip—history outside Tokyo. See you next time—another livestream soon. Subscribe, have a nice day.