00:00:00 John Daub: Greetings and welcome to the Hachōbori neighborhood. How you doing everybody? This is Tokyo, an area not too far from where I live in Chūō Ward, the center of Tokyo. It's a 15-20 minute walk from Ginza, 20 minutes from Tokyo Station. You can catch the Hibiya Line or JR Sōbu Line here, heading toward Tokyo Station from Chiba. It's a beautiful area not overrun with tourists, and one I want to show you today. This is the Only in Japan Go channel—definitely subscribe for live updates. I've been doing live updates about traveling Japan, as a lot of people are worried about the coronavirus. I'll do another update soon.

00:00:30 John Daub: Here's Hachōbori represented in a Utagawa woodblock print from the Edo period. But Hachōbori wasn't established as a town until 1931, so it's relatively new. It's part of the Kyōbashi neighborhood, with lots of shrines and temples—you can see one right here by the bridge. This is Minami Takabashi. I was here two years ago looking for an apartment.

00:01:31 John Daub: Nice little shrine—locals come to pray and show respect. There's a torii gate (shrine gate). This bridge was built in 1932, with that Shōwa-era metal look. This is Kamejima Bridge, connecting to the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River) and eventually the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River). Over there is Tokyo's first man-made island, Shinkawa. Lots of high-rise mansions here—beautiful places to stay, but rent is high, so I didn't move. I love the peacefulness, the boats, the nice colors, and ducks enjoying this warm February 1st afternoon. Shortcuts here! Keep doing what you're doing, sir. Thank you for great information and entertainment. You're very welcome. Thanks for joining us.

00:03:06 John Daub: I'm taking you around this area. A lot of you are watching for the budget hotels here—that's why tourists come. Across the river is Dormy Inn, a budget business hotel under 10,000 yen or $100 a night, even cheaper off-season. They really knew how to make bridges back then. Tokyo's been restoring bridges along the Sumida for two and a half years. Next month, I'll live stream them. There's a lock to the Sumida to prevent flooding from typhoons or tsunamis. Tokyo is a city of canals, like Amsterdam on a map—many filled in for 1964 Olympics highways.

00:04:40 John Daub: This is the old track for Minami Takabashi, built 1932, a year after Hachōbori—hachō meaning eight towns, bori meaning moat. That's my bike—don't take it! Live streams are weird because they're live. The neighborhood's undergone restoration and renewal, with new businesses like this flower shop that smells great. Hachōbori is quiet, just a short hop from Ginza and Tokyo Station. Heading left to tell you about a festival, then looping to Hachōbori Nichōme by the station, home of the World's Best Banana Juice Stand—Japanese TV calls it that.

00:06:02 John Daub: At this intersection, quick left to show a temple on the right with a bizarre mid-January festival like a Naked Man Festival. Dudes and women run around nearly naked in a competition—tradition here for a long time at this jinja (shrine). It's a contest to see how long you can stay in freezing ice water. I missed it this time. Very quiet street—it's a Saturday with beautiful weather. Lots of temples and shrines were here but moved to Asakusa in the Edo period. Peaceful—you can get omikuji (fortune-telling slips) for about 100 yen.

00:08:44 John Daub: Temples and shrines made way for high-rises and residences. Hachōbori was a filled-in moat of eight towns from Kyōbashi. Not much online, but there's the world's most delicious banana juice—we're heading there. Small apartments? About $1,000 to $2,000 monthly, two-bedroom $2,000-$2,500 due to location. Beautiful balconies with great views. This is Shinkawa—Hachōbori has ichi-chōme to yon-chōme. Quiet side of the canal, heading to more city-like area near Ginza and Nihonbashi. Good for bento and strolling on a day like this.

00:10:57 John Daub: Looking back at Minami Takabashi where we started. Bridges along Sumida got restoration—Eitaibashi just finished, now with neon LED blue lights. Impressive buildings. Jumping this fence—Tokyo was heavily bombed March 10, 1945, losing history, especially Sumiyoshi, Morishita, Ryōgoku across the river. Wooden houses burned; 100,000 dead. Post-war, concrete shacks rebuilt into tower mansions in '70s-'80s. Everyday life: trucks, scooters, Uber Eats, FamilyMart.

00:14:10 John Daub: End of street leads to Takarachō, fringe of Ginza, 15-20 minute walk. Back streets have tons of izakaya (pubs) with incredible food—some gourmet, pricey courses. Old warehouse turned gyoza shop. Brewery with nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) fish cuisine, pricey but good, with all-you-can-drink/eat. Yakitori place, Maruetsu supermarket—rare in central Tokyo due to space. Old post-war buildings.

00:16:27 John Daub: 24-hour Fast Gym, yakitori, Hachōbori Station. Bike parking is free—convenience outside Ginza/Tokyo Station. Suburban feel despite 15-20 minute walk. Hibiya and JR lines. Super chats good—taking Kanae out to dinner before heading to Hokkaidō tomorrow. Live stream from Haneda. Loading vending machines at main intersection. Budget hotels, restaurants, Japanese pork izakaya, Famima, Wise Owl Hostel in old office building with bar.

00:19:09 John Daub: Old wooden building supported by metal—maybe WWII survivor. Tobacco stand, cement post-war. Slapped-together eras. Youth hostel, kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers) Osaka-style. Coffee, muffins, cookies in English—tourist-friendly. Mailing postcards for supporters. Chinese cuisine under 500 yen, chige (stew) miso-flavored spicy. Old 1950s building getting renovated—nice to see.

00:24:13 John Daub: Alleys show older buildings—charred from 1945 fires? Copper siding, rusted sheet metal on wood structures. Hachōbori sanchōme. New apartments over shacks. Balconies, trees replanted post-war. Some alleys still residential—residents resist change. Under construction, Opa Hotel, new mansion. Vending machines. Yakinku (grilled meat) with chibi gyoza (mini dumplings). Cracks from 2011 earthquake.

00:29:27 John Daub: Abandoned building with taped windows, cracks fixed, new AC. Cared-for plants. Old coffee shop, mame makki (bean something?). Construction digging history. Cheap beer $1.50 Asahi Super Dry. Spanish bar. Low-rise vs. new high-rises—sunshine issue above eight floors. Little cafes. Closed coffee shops, loco moco (Hawaiian dish), extreme milkshakes.

00:33:47 John Daub: Back streets feel like old Tokyo. Two-story izakaya with sake, shōchū. Cafes, restaurants for escaping chains like Akihabara McDonald's. New '90s/'00s concrete next to '70s groovy. Alley hidden spots open 5-6pm. Weekend quiet, not coronavirus. Trash day. Mom-and-pop like Matsuoka Tailor Shop, Niko Maru smiley bento shop in old building.

00:37:44 John Daub: Immersed in architecture showing city history. New glass facades over old. Building heights changed over decades. Lunchtime cafes closed—Roven cabbage rolls, hamburg steak curry set 1,000 yen. Yutan beef tongue grill, traditional izakaya. Family-run shoe shop, laundromat.

00:40:50 John Daub: Banana juice place! Japanese TV's world's best—long line even now. Hear them making it. Coffee Pub Bob—beer too. Old restaurant, plots from firebombing. Families rebuilt.

00:43:14 John Daub: Back at Hachōbori Station—wind messed audio, switched mics. Family restaurants. Kamejima-bashi (Turtle Island Bridge)—kame (turtle), jima (island). Audio issues sorry. Banana juice line—made fresh, best ever.

00:48:43 John Daub: Famous Hachōbori banana juice from Sona—on Japanese TV, no photos inside. Locals recognized channel. Delicious—not overpowering, like milkshake. Small reason to visit: explore post-war to modern architecture, Edo roots. Hachōbori from 1931, eight towns moat in Kyōbashi. Hibiya Line '60s. 600 yen organic imported bananas.

00:52:06 John Daub: Izakayas, family spots generational. Main street chains like Komodo Soba—cheap katsu don 640 yen. Denny's Japan. Covered Hachōbori ichi-chōme to sanchōme. Kamejima Bridge polite buses. Ukiyo-e master Sharaku lived here—140 prints in 10 months 1794, mysterious alias.

00:58:40 John Daub: Sky Tree view. Shinkawa historical man-made island. Oaska fishermen for shogun. Thai spot Bangkok Pony. Opa Hotels, Indian curry. Italian bombshells? Hi Mandy—o-daijini (get well soon).

01:02:28 John Daub: Little Shinkawa park. Looped route. Police station—cross carefully. Shinkawa first man-made island. Met island owner in past live stream. Recap walk. Old Takabashi marker. Sakura tree—not blooming till March. Chūō-ku manhole. Could you live here? No Starbucks—local vibe.

01:08:17 John Daub: Shrine with ice water naked festival mid-January. Old shop, unique bird/fish house pre-WWII survivor? History sense.

01:11:15 John Daub: Great end—peeling paint, architecture pre-war? World Fair 2025 Osaka—Kevin excited. Homeless situation evolving with Olympics. Chill neighborhood near home—bike often. Tomorrow Haneda to Sapporo.

01:15:18 Derek: [In-person encounter] Ran from Kami-Fukuoka. You found me card.

01:15:18 John Daub: Earthquake alert at 2am—Kanae kicked me. Derek from Australia since Dec 15, leaving Feb 11. Osaka New Year's, Seoul, Nara deer, Nakasendō, ume (plum) blossoms. Hokkaidō Yuki Matsuri (Snow Festival). Warm winter closed ice hues early. Masks sold out—bring your own. 100 left at home.

01:20:12 John Daub: Thanks for finding me—part of show history. Packing for Sapporo. Kiki super chat for airport. Bike here—photos. See you tomorrow Haneda domestic. Enjoy bridge. Bye everybody.