Only in Japan Go — Transcripts
Summaries + full diarized transcripts
2020-11-21 · Ep 858 · 41m

Tokyo's Harumi Avenue Through Ginza Street View Adventure

Tokyostreet viewwalking tourginza shoppingkabuki theater
Summary

Tokyo's Harumi Avenue Through Ginza Street View Adventure

Overview

In this immersive street view adventure, John Daub takes viewers on a 30-minute walk along Harumi-dori (Harumi Avenue), one of Tokyo's major thoroughfares that cuts straight through the heart of Ginza. Starting near Hibiya Park and the Imperial Palace, John navigates under the Shinkansen tracks and past some of the world's most expensive real estate. The walk captures the atmosphere of a pandemic-era weekend in November 2020, balancing social distancing with the joy of exploration.

Along the way, John meets fellow YouTuber and neighbor Spencer, discussing the state of theme parks like Tokyo Disneyland and Universal Studios Japan during the pandemic. They touch on pop culture history, including James Bond filming locations from You Only Live Twice. The journey culminates at the iconic Kabukiza Theater, where John explains the history of Kabuki and the building's reconstruction.

The video also features a delicious stop for matcha kuri daifuku (matcha chestnut rice cakes) at a popular shop called Akebono. John shares practical travel tips, historical context about Ginza's development, and observations on Japanese car culture and infrastructure. It's a comprehensive look at a classic Tokyo route, blending food, history, and modern city life.

Highlights

  • 00:00:33 John spots the Shinkansen passing overhead while introducing Harumi-dori.
  • 00:01:50 View of the new Hibiya Midtown building and the modern Godzilla statue.
  • 00:06:02 John points out the basement entrance to the legendary Jiro Sushi at Tsukiyabashi.
  • 00:08:16 Chance encounter with neighbor and fellow YouTuber Spencer.
  • 00:09:42 Discussion on Tokyo Disneyland vs. Universal Studios Japan during the pandemic.
  • 00:11:31 Identification of a James Bond You Only Live Twice filming location.
  • 00:15:26 John stops to buy matcha kuri daifuku at Akebono.
  • 00:22:15 History of the Wako department store clock and the first Starbucks in Japan.
  • 00:27:18 Spotting a McLaren supercar on the street.
  • 00:32:49 Overview of Kabukiza Theater and its reconstruction history.

Timeline / Chapters

  • 00:00:00 Introduction to Harumi-dori and Imperial Palace view.
  • 00:01:50 Hibiya Midtown and Godzilla statue.
  • 00:04:01 Route explanation towards Tsukiji and Toyosu.
  • 00:06:02 Tsukiyabashi and Jiro Sushi location.
  • 00:08:16 Meeting Spencer.
  • 00:15:26 Daifuku shopping at Akebono.
  • 00:21:08 Ginza Chuo Avenue, Wako, and Sony HQ.
  • 00:27:18 Supercar spotting and approach to Kabukiza.
  • 00:32:49 Kabukiza Theater history and exterior.
  • 00:40:57 Conclusion and sign-off.

Japan Travel Tips

  • Weekend Pedestrian Paradise: Chuo-dori in Ginza shuts to traffic on weekends from 12:00 to 17:00, making it safe for walking but crowded.
  • Social Distancing: Even in popular areas, John maintains 2–3 meters distance; weekends can be busy so plan accordingly.
  • Transport Access: Harumi-dori connects Hibiya Station, Ginza Station (Ginza/Hibiya Lines), and Higashi Ginza Station (Asakusa/Hibiya Lines).
  • Kabukiza Viewing: You can enjoy the exterior and woodblock prints even if not attending a performance; performances run with distancing.
  • Food Stop: Akebono is a famous spot for daifuku; expect a line but it moves quickly. Price is around 100 yen more than elsewhere but worth it.
  • Cheap Eats: Fujisoba offers quick noodle dishes like tempura soba or katsudon soba for under 500 yen.
  • Photography: Tokyo Plaza Ginza has an observation point overlooking Tsukiyabashi intersection for great angles.

Japanese Language & Culture Notes

  • Harumi-dori (晴海通り): A major avenue cutting through central Tokyo, connecting Hibiya to the waterfront.
  • Kabukiza (歌舞伎座): The principal theater in Tokyo for kabuki, a traditional Japanese dance-drama.
  • Wakuchin (ワクチン): Japanese pronunciation of "vaccine," discussed in the context of pandemic recovery.
  • Hajimete (初めて): Means "first time," used when trying a new flavor of daifuku.
  • Shutoko (首都高): Abbreviation for the Shuto Expressway, built over rivers for the 1964 Olympics.
  • Anko (あんこ): Sweet red bean paste, a common filling for Japanese sweets.
  • Kuri (栗): Chestnut, a seasonal autumn flavor often paired with matcha.
  • Etiquette: Hand sanitizing stations are common at food shops; use them before handling food.

Food & Drink Guide

  • Matcha Kuri Daifuku (抹茶栗大福)
    • Description: Rice cake filled with matcha-flavored mochi, sweet red bean paste (anko), and a whole roasted chestnut (kuri).
    • Where: Akebono, Harumi-dori, Ginza.
    • Price: Slightly higher than average (approx. 100 yen premium).
    • John's Reaction: "Delish," notes the whole chestnut and roasted flavor.
    • Timestamp: 00:15:26
  • Tempura Soba / Katsudon Soba
    • Description: Buckwheat noodles topped with tempura or pork cutlet.
    • Where: Fujisoba (chain near Kabukiza).
    • Price: Under 500 yen ("one coin").
    • Timestamp: 00:32:49
  • Taiyaki
    • Description: Fish-shaped cake filled with sweet paste.
    • Where: Vending machine corner under tracks (noted as mostly closed).
    • Timestamp: 00:02:48

People

  • John Daub: Host and narrator. Provides historical context, food reviews, and navigation.
  • Spencer: John's neighbor and fellow YouTuber. Discusses theme park coverage (Disney/USJ) and pandemic conditions.
  • Kanae Daub: John's wife. Mentioned as the recipient of the fresh daifuku bought during the walk.
  • Toby (crow): John's named crow. Mentioned in passing regarding a "food and drink fund."

Key Takeaways

  • Harumi-dori is a strategic road connecting major Tokyo landmarks from the Imperial Palace to the bay.
  • Ginza's infrastructure, including the Shuto Expressway, was rapidly built for the 1964 Olympics.
  • The Kabukiza Theater has been rebuilt multiple times due to fires and earthquakes, with the current structure incorporating a skyscraper behind it.
  • Pandemic fatigue was setting in by late 2020, but Japan remained relatively open compared to the West at that time.
  • Street food like daifuku remains a highlight of Ginza shopping streets.

Notable Quotes

  • 00:00:33 "There goes the Shinkansen—woohoo! I love this road; it is so convenient."
  • 00:01:50 "Behind there is a massive Godzilla statue—that's the one where you take a picture next to."
  • 00:09:42 "More fun in Osaka than here. Wow—don't tell anyone. Secret: USJ doing better than Tokyo Disneyland."
  • 00:11:31 "This sign and alley... in You Only Live Twice, James Bond movie, where Aki and Sean Connery escaped Osato Chemicals."
  • 00:22:15 "First McDonald's Japan on Harumi Avenue, 1970s—smell angered Ginza Shopping Association, moved."
  • 00:35:05 "Not original building—wood, fires common. Kiyomizudera Kyoto over 1000 years."

Related Topics

  • Ginza Shopping District Guide
  • Kabuki Theater History
  • Tokyo Street Food Tour
  • James Bond Locations in Japan
  • Pandemic Travel in Tokyo
  • Shuto Expressway Infrastructure

Search Tags

#only-in-japan-go #tokyo #ginza #harumi-dori #kabukiza #japanese-sweets #daifuku #street-view #walking-tour #pandemic-japan #bond-location #ginza-shopping #tokyo-food #japan-travel


Full Transcript

00:00:00 John Daub: Welcome to Tokyo everybody! This is where I live, not too far away. I guess you'd call this my neighborhood. This road here cuts past the Imperial Palace and Hibiya Park—right there, the Imperial Palace starts right around here—Harumi-dori (Harumi Avenue). This avenue cuts straight through the heart of Ginza. We're going to be walking underneath the Shinkansen tracks, past one of the most expensive real estate areas in the world, Ginza Yonchome, making our way through some shops, a closed pedestrian street on weekends, and then to Kabukiza, the theater where Kabuki takes place.

00:00:33 John Daub: I hope you're excited. Buckle in for about a 30-minute episode. There goes the Shinkansen—woohoo! I love this road; it is so convenient. It starts right there, but if you keep going straight, you'll pretty much get to the Parliament Building, where the government's offices are, where they vote and all that political stuff. If you go around the Imperial Palace a little and straight on Route 246, you're in Shibuya. This road cuts through the heart of Tokyo. There goes a Yamanote Line. This starts at Hibiya Station underneath me. Walk a little to the left and you'll get to Yurakucho and eventually Tokyo Station.

00:01:50 John Daub: This is the Marunouchi Nakadori. I've had a couple live streams here; it's beautiful during Christmas, and they're setting up the lights. That's the new Hibiya Midtown building, a big shopping mall and office buildings. Behind there is a massive Godzilla statue—that's the one where you take a picture next to. It's gotten more ferocious; they changed it to a modern-looking Godzilla that will eat you alive. There's a sign: Hibiya Park 200 meters and Ginza Station. We're walking towards Ginza Station along Harumi-dori. There might be some street food.

00:02:48 John Daub: Cody's here—how's it going? Mr. Donut or takoyaki? Oh, taiyaki! That sounds good. Vending machine corner—do you see it, all boarded up? Sad state, but due to non-smoking laws, Olympics revitalizing the area, they closed it down. It was such an important place underneath the tracks. You have old-style restaurants modernized for tourists—not a lot of local food, but they're still open. Many local foods are on the ground level. Good restaurant Showa and the [inaudible] campground to eat. Neat posters; the roof is interesting, much unchanged since the Showa period, which ended in the 1980s, through World War II and Vietnam War era.

00:04:01 John Daub: Let's wait for the traffic crossing here. I love this road. It goes past the Imperial Palace, straight through Ginza, then past Tsukiji Market, over the bridge to Kachidoki—which we've done a live stream on—to the Harumi area, a manmade island, and eventually the new Toyosu Market. If you kept going straight, you'd get to Tokyo Bay. Hey, Antares, N-A-E, nay nay. Let's see what we find along the way. I'm social distancing, staying two, three meters away. Not easy on the weekend with people out.

00:05:01 John Daub: Torotoro Porco writes, "the magic of 720p"—yes, when the signal is clean, magical. Sam Carver got here first with Super Chat—thank you, Sam. Beautiful blue sky afternoon in November that feels like end of September, slight chill but warm sun. This bus cuts through Harumi Avenue to Big Sight, the huge convention area—used to be Tokyo Marathon end, but now conventions canceled, ghost town.

00:06:02 John Daub: Not gonna say too much about what they're talking about right here—conservative party. Kanai tells me to stay away. Ultra right side, I guess. I don't get into politics much, but Japanese politicians don't adhere to noise policies—they just use a megaphone. Merry Christmas. Social distance. This is Tsukiyabashi. Underneath in the basement is Jiro Sushi—that guy from the documentary, 100 years old making sushi.

00:07:13 John Daub: Hey, Irvin, Shane, WRX Turbo—looks like the three amigos. John Kimura chiming in. Food and drink fund—is that for Toby (crow) or us? This is Tokyo Plaza, built not long ago. Up top is a beautiful observation point where you can look down on Tsukiyabashi intersection—stunning angles. You see down Harumi Avenue, across the street the highway I've driven—scary as hell—then Shinkansen tracks we walked under.

00:08:11 Spencer: How you doing? How'd you find me? Yes, you were here.

00:08:16 John Daub: This is our neighbor, Spencer. Hi, oh, don't look at my shirt. It's another YouTuber. How dare you? How have you been?

00:08:29 Spencer: Tired, cold—tired mostly. I have a lot of work. Busy life.

00:08:35 John Daub: I noticed your attire—shorts. Beautiful day, 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Perfect. What are you doing here?

00:08:50 Spencer: Just walking down Harumi Avenue, showing the people. Already done Ginza a million times—something different. You going to Kabukiza?

00:09:02 John Daub: Yeah, to Kabukiza then a JNTO seminar at four. Don't keep me too long. How's everything at Disney? Spencer knows Disney well—TDR planning on Twitter, which one to go to now?

00:09:24 Spencer: We can walk.

00:09:32 John Daub: Okay, avoiding people—down the side. What's it like in Tokyo Disneyland these days?

00:09:42 Spencer: Not fun. More fun sent to Osaka covering USJ. Went last week—Tuesday, Wednesday at Disney for Christmas, then USJ Christmas press event. More fun in Osaka than here.

00:10:07 John Daub: Wow—don't tell anyone. Secret: USJ doing better than Tokyo Disneyland. Hopefully wakuchin (vaccine) helps.

00:10:31 John Daub: This sign and alley—or one of these—in You Only Live Twice, James Bond movie, where Aki and Sean Connery escaped Osato Chemicals, drove past here. Changed a lot since 1967. Signs and buildings different since Connery days. May he rest in peace—huge loss with Trebek too. Saturday Night Live skit—Connery gave Trebek hard time.

00:11:29 Spencer: Gonna go buy snacks later.

00:11:31 John Daub: They're calling it the surge in Japan—trying hard to be careful, come to Ginza weekend afternoon. Genius—better than crowded theme parks mid-pandemic. Couple YouTubers went to Shibuya Halloween. Where that dude came from—Japan spiking in Tokyo, told to stay home. Sapporo stay home; Tokyo okay. Might have to soon—utilizing time. Went Hokkaido last month, feel better. Glad went Europe Christmas markets last year—world changed two months later. Austria, Prague—lucky.

00:13:04 Spencer: Never been there.

00:13:14 John Daub: Crossing street—Harumi Avenue crossed by Chuo-dori (Chuo Avenue). Straight this way to Shimbashi—featured bazillion times. Other way to Akihabara, eventually Ueno. This shopping street shuts weekends 12 to 5—too many people. Japan not as bad as West, but getting complacent.

00:13:50 Spencer: Friend interviewed internship—no masks; CEO said only for clients. Insane.

00:14:14 John Daub: Japan does good job, but dip made complacent—hard to get back. Fatigue real.

00:14:37 Spencer: [inaudible]

00:14:45 John Daub: Anytime—Spencer emoji on Discord. Nice to see you, stay safe. Don't look at my shirt—don't know that creator, Donna's t-shirt. Don't watch much YouTube. He's dressed for summer. See you, Spencer.

00:15:26 John Daub: Tis the season for mochi—fa la la la la. Mochi daifuku. Matcha kuri daifuku (matcha chestnut rice cake). Yes, please. Have daifuku money. Smells good. My favorite daifuku place—never seen matcha kuri before. Hajimete (first time). Line here—popular. Wash hands with alcohol. Protect people—fa la la la la. Too early for Christmas? Japan Christmas since Halloween ended. Daifuku main channel episode—film story, kinds. This one whole anko (red bean paste) beans—delicious. On Harumi Avenue.

00:18:04 John Daub: Inside shop, other confections—Akebono famous here, not cheap real estate. Daifuku hundred yen more than elsewhere, but good. Matcha kuri daifuku—kuri (chestnut). Social distancing. Thank you. YouTube 101—three amigos chimed in. Don't forget for Kanae. That's my daifuku—buy her fresh ones home. Thank you.

00:21:08 John Daub: People eat KFC in Japan—not big deal, few friends do. Ginza Chuo Avenue—not going, focus Harumi. Away from crowds. Love concept cars—Datsun! Had Datsun 510 kid station wagon. Sony headquarters—play with A7S3, ordered August, still no. Do you think Kanae like hairless dog? Aibo—robotic dog.

00:22:15 John Daub: Broke from crowds—look back at Wako department store, here since Meiji era. Hourly bell rings all over. Clock by Seiko, renovated. Toilet top floor nicest in Japan—I know good toilets. Ginza streets off Chuo-dori have interesting shops, always changing. That Starbucks first in Japan, 1998 when I came—only one long time. First McDonald's Japan on Harumi Avenue, 1970s—smell angered Ginza Shopping Association, moved. Big step for global McDonald's—Ginza means something.

00:24:45 John Daub: Area redone last few years—new benches for picnic, opened up. 300 yen bar—early 30s, beers with buddies, mischief. Pointing to Toyosu, Harumi—love signs. Same generation as MWSG27—high school '74. Harumi cuts major parts—wicked cars. Japan kick-ass cars. Passed Ginza Station (Hibiya, Ginza Lines)—now Higashi Ginza (Asakusa, Hibiya). Metro, Toei meet—close to others: Ginza 2 min, Hibiya 5, Yurakucho JR 10.

00:27:18 John Daub: Whoa—car aficionados, what is that? McLaren—can't be cheap. Rev it! Stealth mode. Awesome—dozen others passed unnoticed. Showa-dori (Showa Avenue) past Akihabara. Chuo-dori. Know these three, know this side Tokyo. Kabukiza goal. Peso equation not today—stuff to do. Kabukiza damaged 2011 quake, renovated—scaffolding gone 3-4 years ago. Skyscraper in its butt.

00:30:07 John Daub: Shutoko (expressway) underneath. 1964 Olympics, drained river for highway—quick infrastructure. Goes to Nihonbashi—cool driving to Yokohama, Tomei to Nagoya. Lanes split around poles—built fast. Kabukiza main Kabuki theater. Less crowded Higashi Ginza. That way Tsukiji, Kachidoki Bridge, Sumida River.

00:32:49 John Daub: Fujisoba—one coin (under 500 yen): tempura soba, gyudon-style soba, mini oyakodon soba, katsudon soba. Quick, cheap, good, salty. Map: Chuo City, walked Harumi—remember it for hotels on big roads. Kabuki on with distancing. Front: woodblock prints, people in kimono—traditional feel. Takes hours to dress—even men, wore for wedding.

00:35:05 John Daub: Sake barrels. Here till Nov 26. Not original building—wood, fires common. Kiyomizudera Kyoto over 1000 years. Mochi from Akebono—famous. Basement gift shops, escalator. Nice burger. Soft—rice flour. Mmm, big chestnut, matcha anko, roasted kuri—delish.

00:38:24 John Daub: History: reconstruction pre-quake, original Meiji 1889. Taisho era till 1921 Kanto quake. Post-WWII design, then skyscraper caboose. Iconic orange, green, black seating. Performance Dec 1-26—famous actors. Harumi, Chuo, Showa dissect Tokyo—key for taxis.

00:40:57 John Daub: Thanks for watching—safe day. Back soon. Questions in comments, thumbs up for more walking adventures. 1200 likes: Akihabara street view other side. Bye from Harumi.

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