00:00:07 John Daub: Greetings! Welcome to Monzen-Nakacho. It's midnight and this is one of our adventures where we're going to be walking the alleys of a neighborhood here in Tokyo. This one is not too far from where I live. This is Koto Ward, one of the 23 wards of Tokyo. I love this place because it has such a shitamachi (old-town) feel. It feels like the age before our father's father's age, just kind of trapped in time. The alleys, the old shopping streets, the vibe—it's really authentic.

00:00:46 John Daub: That's why I always think everybody goes to Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku. If you're coming to Japan, you go to the same places and all you see are tourists. I never see that many tourists here, maybe because we're in the middle of a pandemic. But even when we're not, this is a place that's so fresh and so close to the center. Here's Monzen-Nakacho Station. It's accessible by the Oedo Line, the circle line of the subway system, sort of like the Yamanote Line and the Tozai Line, which goes east to west. You can stop here very easily and you're going to really love where I'm about to take you.

00:01:24 John Daub: The first stop is one I've been to before, one you're really going to love. This alley has so much personality. So let's head over to the left, this is exit number six, I believe. These are standing bars in an area that doesn't really ever change. Tatsumi Shindo is what it's called—tatsu meaning standing, so it makes sense. It's one of the most picturesque bar streets and it hasn't really changed. You'll see the owners still put out trees and plants; it has a touch of nature. All the buildings are low-rises, just two stories, with that Showa era feeling—that's like 1926 to 1989.

00:02:40 John Daub: We're walking down here, and you might hear some karaoke going on. A lot of these places are closed down, but a few are still running; it has a really unique vibe. I've been here during the daytime but never at night in a live stream to show you. It is a lot different at night. I have a light if it gets dark, but it's pretty bright out here. This is what I'm talking about—you see there's a tree that just juts out of the side of the alley. Can you hear some karaoke? There's some construction going on, usually in the middle of the night because there's less traffic. The signs are so old; I love this look.

00:04:12 John Daub: So the karaoke is coming from here as well as this tree. Let's get a closer look—looks like some sort of evergreen. Hey, Danny, nice to see you there. I just pushed some buttons hoping I didn't kick anybody off. Sorry about that, Danny—I deleted your Super Chat. Oh my gosh, I owe you big time. It's hard to moderate and do live streams here. Now the bathrooms are outside here, and they've redone them, which is neat. Here's the ladies room—they get a door, men don't. That's old-style Showa era. Usually you're drinking too much—why let doors get in the way? And in the pandemic, who wants to touch doors anyway?

00:05:26 John Daub: Hey, Jeff Ang is here—thanks for the contribution, brother. And Jennifer French—another fun live stream. Danny, if you're out there, I'm so sorry; I deleted your comment trying to touch it. So that's about it for this alley. It's not very long, only about 80 to 100 meters. But that's what makes it so great. Each of these standing bars was constructed decades ago, still in operation, some by the same owner for decades. If you come here, this is the type of town in Nakacho where you sit shoulder to shoulder and make friends. This is the amazing thing about shitamachi places like Monzen-Nakacho—it's so inviting. Here's the marker for the start of this historic street. My bicycle is down there, so we might walk through again.

00:06:52 John Daub: We're gonna walk this way and see if we can find any food. I don't think there's street food open right now except convenience stores, but who knows on these midnight snack adventures? I'm a little hungry—we had an amazing sukiyaki dinner today with Kanae and her dad; that was a really nice time. The parking here is 400 yen from midnight to 8 a.m.—only four dollars, but you have to start at midnight. Interesting—nice, and if you only come for 20 minutes it's 200 yen, that's a ripoff. Always keep good parking spots in mind. This shop looks closed; midnight is a quiet time. Tokyo is not a city that never sleeps—I think I just saw a rat or a cat go by. Tokyo is a city that sleeps, so keep your voice down in residential neighborhoods like this.

00:08:30 John Daub: I think this is Fukagawa Park. This area was called Fukagawa Monzen-Nakacho, and Fukagawa got dropped in the Meiji period, 1868 to 1912. Just ahead there's a street with lots of shops leading up to a famous temple, Naritasan Fukagawa Fudo-do. Let's look over here—maybe we'll find some eats. I love the vibe of this town; restaurant just closed. People are out and about. I know a lot of countries are in stay-at-home stages; Japan hasn't been for a while, but it's a good place to travel from there. The Go To Travel campaign where people got incentives to travel was stopped last week—travel to Hokkaido, Sapporo, and Tokyo. Japanese need incentives to travel because if you give them money like a thousand dollars, they save it. They need incentives to spend it, like only getting it if they travel.

00:10:26 John Daub: Young kids are over there partying—stay away from that area, we're too good for them, although it looks kind of fun. Hey, Tasty Chronicles—happy belated Thanksgiving; here's a little something for carrot and celery sticks. Kanae doesn't like celery, but she's been eating a lot of mushrooms. I just finished a mushroom episode releasing soon on the edited channel. Look at this little bar—they're closing now, so customers are leaving; there's four or five still in there. Audacity is a new traveler—welcome. We're about 50 members short of a new emoji, our 28th or 29th; we have a really active community.

00:12:04 John Daub: I'm gonna do a U-turn. We're going down the block and back up the shopping street—this area called Monzen-Nakacho, locals call it Mon-Naka, like Pokémon. Monzen-Nakacho has history going back 400 years; it's a gate town and temple town with a famous temple and shrine. In the Meiji Restoration a lot changed; not far away is reclaimed land. There's an old section where we are and newer parts. Look at that alley—if a cat scampered by it would be perfect. Hey, John Kimura's here—there's Monzen-Nakacho Station, this is the Tozai Line exit. Big shoutout to Louise in Glasgow, Scotland—here's your postcard; you just joined the postcard club yesterday. Thank you, David Kimura—hi brother; John Kimura is my younger brother, same name. The John family is very large—we're everywhere.

00:14:25 John Daub: It does look really urban, and there are unusual people out at night, but this town gets a bad rap. People just like to drink and have fun old-school style, so it's pretty safe. What's that over there? Looks like a nudie bar—staying away. Torre Toro Porco, thanks for staying up so late. I've been having a tough edit for my next video, a collaboration with JR East—pretty excited. Social distance—good two meters cleared. There's a ramen shop, closed; ramen is midnight food, but in the pandemic they can't keep it open. Shoutout to Cody, Japan Ramen Guide—he had emergency dental surgery, hope he's well; my partner in crime for ramen.

00:16:06 John Daub: Monzen-Nakacho is kind of famous for samurai and river culture—you see them represented on the street. Sometimes it pays to look down. We're gonna see a sumo statue tonight. Yoshinoya is open 24 hours—you can't close that. Everybody's getting in on Pokémon—Poke-Mori gyudon in the shape of a Poké Ball, about 500 yen with tax. When you order you get a toy figure—19 of them including Pikachu. A lot of people in Japan are eating gyudon to collect them. Weird—I didn't know Yoshinoya did Pokémon collabs; Mr. Donuts just did one. Pokémon chudonuts are amazing—did a live stream on that. Lots of famous restaurants here open during the day. First time I went to Japan I was starving at 2 a.m.—that midnight ramen is always the best.

00:19:00 John Daub: There's a Family Mart so I know where to come back for a snack, and a 7-Eleven—gonna loop to that. Magnificent Meal from Denmark—awesome name. Always give respect to moderators—they help when things go awry. They're not the fun police—you can have fun, just keep it clean. Share the love emoji with a moderator near you. This is cool—the statue of Ino Tadataka, a geographer; that's why the map of Japan is behind him. He mapped Japan's coasts. Your tool was that thing in your hand, mine's a gimbal with smartphone—centuries apart, but respect for pioneers. Over here is the sumo wrestler statue, Ozeki rikishi Monnokorozashi—this one's dark, gotta get my light.

00:21:02 John Daub: Hey, John Minton—will I collab with those two YouTubers? Sure, I met Paulo before he was famous; we talked but it was a weird topic—call me with something better. Chris is a good guy too; one day stars might align. You can put your hand in the sumo wrestler's hand—don't worry, I have alcohol for pandemic hands. Let's see how big John's hands are—could I run for president? Apparently not—massive fingers. This guy's fingers are beefy—had to be steel gloves; look at that thumb. Sumo wrestlers leave their print here. I'm the weakest link—this is embarrassing. Cool little thing, but you have to know it's in the back.

00:23:21 John Daub: During weekends they have a festival atmosphere, even in pandemic. This year I skipped Tomioka Ichino Matsuri, my favorite street food festival—better to stay home. This is the shrine or temple—I always mix them up. Tomioka Hachimangu is this way. It's creepy watching them in the shadows—I was freaked out. Behind me is another samurai statue—Ino Tadataka, the geographer; I was just there before the sumo wrestler. This is the entrance to Tomioka Hachimangu—looks pretty unique. Never walk down the center—show respect, though not all locals follow it. Wonder if there's fish—oh, carp right there. Do carps sleep?

00:27:51 John Daub: This is another sumo statue. Always pay respect. It's carved strong into this boulder—kanji and an image of a sumo wrestler; look at those hands. Let's see if we can get to a thousand likes—click that button; I'm about to get something to eat, I'm hungry. This is Tomioka Hachimangu, a beautiful temple—wait, shrine? Got that orange color like Honden shrines in Kyoto, really unique. Illuminated here is some artwork—beautiful when no one's around to marvel at alone. Security is low because people pay respects—this lantern right in the city.

00:31:04 John Daub: Hey, Waiyan Makashi from Switzerland. Santos Fernandez—hi. Postcards to India? No airmail right now—Canada stopped today too, holiday demand. Fingers crossed for India; seven or eight waiting, same for Middle East. Australia postcards go out quick. Let's head to Naritasan Fukagawa Fudo-do temple—very historical. Happy belated Thanksgiving—hope you didn't eat too much turkey. When it's daytime in America it's nighttime in Japan—that freaked kid me out. Community boards in every ward—Reiwa 3 health check meeting; I'll use that in my 40s. Hey Martin from Nara and New York. Mike D—keep up the good work, have a beer.

00:33:40 John Daub: Looking for a beer vending machine or convenience store—this is a midnight snack run after midnight. One more thing: road leading to the temple with shops—looks different at night. Little tipsy guy—Vishal, Marcus, Micky welcome; you've unlocked cool emojis. Here's the path up to the temple—everything closed; now live images from Tokyo. Famous Mon's Cafe—local coffee shop. This area's famous for coffee; Kiyosumi-Shirakawa has the most cafes in Japan, very relaxed and park-like. Mon's has that rep. Another reason to come—standing bars serving sake from around Japan. Some new, some historic. Adventurous travelers stay here—cheaper, soak up shitamachi vibe, friendlier than Shibuya.

00:37:12 John Daub: On New Year's this place buzzes, but not today. Cool to have you traveling with me. Day after tomorrow, Fuji City for two nights, three days—amazing Mount Fuji shots on Only in Japan Go channel. Is that a statue? Nah, bicycle. Party of rowdy teenagers singing. Aomit saw my coldest town video, minus 35°C—not long ago. Was in Rikubetsu, minus 27 at night; Canadians say that's summer. For Japan, really cold—would've licked a flagpole if I saw one. Everything hurt outside—just pain. Uber Eats—maybe he'll drop something; midnight snack run, follow him. Sometimes they drop stuff—this alley looks cool.

00:41:04 John Daub: Cool bar—Cherry, like Tom Cruise's girlfriend in The Outsiders. Tough for Uber Eats deliverers—news of bike thefts since jobless folks use them without owning bikes. Kushikatsu restaurant—love it, popular in Osaka not Tokyo; deep-fried sticks, bad for you but awesome. Say it: kushikatsu. Where's the 7-Eleven? Boss coffee, ochia, tomato juice—halfway to Bloody Mary. Nat-chan—had a friend named that. No coffee for me. Whoa, Xmas KFC—chicken and cake? Santa from Kentucky—$10 box with Snoopy and Woodstock. Yoshinoya has Pokémon, Colonel has Snoopy—Yoshinoya wins. Tartar tomato looks good—not big on KFC but love Kentucky state.

00:44:27 John Daub: Olympics—Tokyo 2020 or 2021? Chime in. More closed food. 20/21—great idea, best of both worlds, like Only in Japan/John Daub. Man watching exercise video with 1400 people—what? Convenience stores locked and loaded. Mr. Donuts closed—should be 24 hours; donuts after midnight create gremlins—don't get Gizmo wet. Construction zones like amusement parks. Chris Hansen checked Dunkin' Donuts dumpster—no donuts thrown away. Family Mart entrance song—hum it loud enough from Japan? People still eating after midnight—this chicken place looks good, closed. Funkus USMC humming—loving it but not right.

00:49:52 John Daub: McDonald's—at least open. When I first came in 1988, no breakfast; cheeseburgers only, even at 7 a.m.—my first meal was one. Crazy—no breakfast till around 2000, World Cup time. As backpacker in 1996, burgers for breakfast worldwide—not cool. Scout: sandwiches, onigiri—what should I get? 10 seconds. Onigiri, tamago sando, donuts, beer, sandwich, seven chicken, baumkuchen—love it, if they have it. No oden anymore, sanitation. Yakisoba, beer—all? Got a 1000 yen—fruit sando, shrimp cutlet sandwich. No baumkuchen. Found something and small beer.

00:54:51 John Daub: Got a beer, dessert—washing hands. Joined by Walking Man—share a drink? Like your hat. Thought onigiri not healthy, so shrimp cutlet sandwich deep-fried with sauce—healthier? Walking Man agrees. Dessert: healthy chocolate sauce raspberry with cross-section—chocolate cream inside, winner. Plus tiny beer—135 ml, kanpai! Nothing says kanpai like a beer that fits in your hand—do they make these where you are? Sanitizing hands—Kanae might be watching. This is susume, recommended. Saving other for Kanae. Pork cutlet sandwich—crusts off, tonkatsu sauce sweet-salty, bit of tartar—good balance. Itadakimasu—deep appreciation.

00:59:00 John Daub: Mmm, good—maintains crunch somehow. Recommended for relaxing—Asahi times. Kanpai—halfway done. Promoting health—don't finish before bed. Next: chocolate raspberry—romantic, 5% alcohol. Ooh, like a queenie—deep fried, raspberry cream. Friday night party. They're dancing to Backstreet Boys—I named that tune. View of alley—hiring at McDonald's. Everybody knows the lyrics. If I danced, only three watching—subway closed. 135 ml beer—cute, $1 good night beer. People walk by, double-take—what's that guy doing? Passive then aggressive.

01:05:30 John Daub: Thank you to my kitchen table, Japan Post. Straight ahead to Ryogoku sumo town, crossing Route 14, Morishita, Kiyosumi-Shirakawa coffee town. Love mini adventures like this after midnight—thanks for joining. Here's my bike—no trash in basket, well done. Safety first—walk the bike, no live stream riding; police station watching, Big Brother. Amazing adventure—thanks everybody: Gamer Pro, Tony P, Joseph from Chile, Mike D, Waiyan. Back tomorrow live stream, Fuji City day after for Mount Fuji episode. Discord passed 10k—onlyinjapango.com/discord, free 24/7. Questions in comments, like for notifications. Day after Thanksgiving—rest, but good to see Dallas thumped. See you tomorrow—maybe Akihabara. Later—check Mr. Donuts Pokémon video.