Only in Japan Go — Transcripts
Summaries + full diarized transcripts
2020-12-12 · Ep 875 · 1h 48m

Fishing in Kesennuma Rockfish and Fugu

Miyagifishingseafooddisaster recoverytravel logistics
Summary

Fishing in Kesennuma Rockfish and Fugu

Overview

In this winter adventure, John Daub travels to Kesennuma, Miyagi Prefecture, a coastal city famous for its recovery following the 2011 Great Tohoku Earthquake and tsunami. The goal is simple yet challenging: go fishing on a local boat to catch rockfish (kajika) for a fresh sea-to-table lunch. John documents the entire process, from boarding the Jiman Maru 3 at the port to navigating the choppy Pacific waters off the coast.

The video serves as both a fishing vlog and a travel update on the Tohoku region. John shares observations on how the ecosystem has renewed itself over the decade since the disaster, noting the clarity of the water and the return of marine life. He provides practical travel advice for reaching this remote area, specifically highlighting the value of the JR East Welcome Rail Pass for foreign visitors.

Despite the excitement and perfect conditions, fishing proves unpredictable. John battles the elements, technical difficulties with his live stream signal, and elusive fish. He manages to catch a small rockfish and a poisonous fugu (blowfish), both of which are released back into the ocean. The episode captures the authentic experience of recreational fishing in Japan—sometimes you eat, sometimes you don't, but the journey through the revitalized coastal landscape is the real reward.

Highlights

  • 00:00:00 Intro: John introduces the sea-to-table fishing concept in Kesennuma.
  • 00:01:10 Kesennuma Recovery: Discussion on the town's revitalization 10 years after the 2011 tsunami.
  • 00:04:29 Setting Sail: Boarding the Jiman Maru 3 and safety briefing on the inflatable life belt.
  • 00:13:34 Arrival at Spot: Reaching Toriyama Out Point, noting water clarity and depth.
  • 00:21:34 Fishing Technique: Explanation of the lure setup and how to hook rockfish.
  • 00:41:10 Gilligan's Island Joke: John humorously compares the situation to being stranded, mentioning Peter von Gomm.
  • 01:10:47 First Catch: A small rockfish is caught but released due to size.
  • 01:42:57 Fugu Catch: A poisonous blowfish is caught and carefully released.

Timeline / Chapters

  • 00:00:00 Introduction & Location Overview
  • 00:04:29 Boarding the Boat & Safety Gear
  • 00:13:34 Arriving at Toriyama Fishing Spot
  • 00:21:34 Fishing Gear & Technique Explanation
  • 00:41:10 Waiting for Bites & Pop Culture References
  • 01:10:47 Catching & Releasing Small Rockfish
  • 01:26:23 Struggling with Signal & Cold Weather
  • 01:34:30 Travel Tips: JR East Rail Pass
  • 01:42:57 Catching Fugu & Conclusion

Japan Travel Tips

  • Getting to Kesennuma: Take the Shinkansen to Ichinoseki Station, then transfer to a local train or bus. The total trip is about 3.5 hours from Tokyo.
  • Rail Pass: The JR East Welcome Rail Pass is highly recommended for this region. At the time of filming, it cost around $100–120 USD for 3 days of unlimited travel.
  • Fishing Tours: Kesennuma offers charter fishing boats where you can keep your catch. Expect to pay for the boat charter; some places offer cooking services for an extra fee.
  • Season: Winter (December) can be windy and cold (around 9°C). Dress warmly and consider seasickness medication if prone to motion sickness.
  • Connectivity: Mobile signal can be spotty offshore. Download maps and content beforehand.

Japanese Language & Culture Notes

  • Kesennuma (気仙沼): A city in Miyagi Prefecture heavily impacted by the 2011 tsunami. Known for its shark fin industry and seafood.
  • Fugu (フグ): Blowfish. Contains lethal toxins in certain organs. Requires a licensed chef to prepare safely. John catches one but releases it.
  • Sugoi (すごい): "Amazing" or "Wow." John uses this when catching the fugu.
  • Shinkansen (新幹線): Japan's bullet train network. Essential for long-distance travel within the main islands.
  • Tsunami Recovery: John notes the significant revitalization over 10 years. New buildings and clean waters indicate a healed ecosystem, though the memory of the disaster remains important to the local identity.

Food & Drink Guide

  • Rockfish (Kajika / カジカ): The target fish. Firm white flesh, excellent for sashimi or grilling. John catches a small one but releases it.
  • Fugu (Blowfish): Poisonous if prepared incorrectly. Often served as thin sashimi (fugusashi) or in hot pot (chirinabe). John catches one but releases it due to lack of license/preparation.
  • Sashimi (刺身): Raw fish. John mentions bringing wasabi and soy sauce to eat fresh catch on the boat if successful.
  • Wasabi & Soy Sauce: Standard condiments for sashimi. The captain brought these along in anticipation of a catch.

People

  • John Daub: Host and narrator. Enthusiastic about fishing and sharing Tohoku's recovery story.
  • Captain: The boat operator (unnamed). Manages the vessel, provides gear, and brings condiments for potential sashimi.
  • Peter von Gomm: Mentioned jokingly by John in a Gilligan's Island analogy. A fellow American creator living in Japan.
  • Viewers/Community: John frequently addresses his live stream audience, acknowledging comments and subscriptions.

Key Takeaways

  • Ecosystem Recovery: The waters off Kesennuma have cleaned up significantly since 2011, supporting diverse marine life again.
  • Fishing Reality: Even in fertile waters, catching fish is not guaranteed. Patience and luck are required.
  • Travel Accessibility: Tohoku is accessible via rail passes, making it a viable trip for foreign tourists despite being remote.
  • Respect Nature: John practices catch-and-release for undersized or dangerous fish, emphasizing respect for marine life.

Notable Quotes

  • 00:00:00 "This is sea-to-table, not farm-to-table—it's the sea back there."
  • 00:01:10 "Over 10 years, it's gone from war zone to revitalized with new buildings."
  • 00:04:29 "This belt inflates if tossed in. I'm a dive master, swimmer, survivor—enjoy the 15-minute ride."
  • 00:41:10 "Leave Mrs. Howell for Peter von Gomm, I'd be professor, he Gilligan."
  • 01:10:47 "Size doesn't matter—picture for magazine. Fish can't say cheese."
  • 01:42:57 "Caught one—fugu! Sugoi. Can't eat—not best fish."

Related Topics

  • Tohoku Travel Guide
  • Japanese Fishing Culture
  • Seafood in Japan
  • JR East Rail Pass Reviews
  • Disaster Recovery Tourism

Search Tags

#only-in-japan-go #tokyo #travel #kesennuma #miyagi #fishing #rockfish #fugu #tohoku #tsunami-recovery #jr-east-pass #winter-travel #shinkansen #seafood #japan-travel


Full Transcript

00:00:00 John Daub: In Kesennuma, we're about to go fishing for lunch. This is sea-to-table, not farm-to-table—it's the sea back there. We're on a fishing boat heading to a spot famous for rockfish, kelp greenling, lots of different types. People come from all over Japan to fish here. It might get windy, so I'll shield you. It takes about 15 minutes to get there. Hope you enjoy the ride—there's a chapter list to skip to catching, cutting up, and eating the fish. I've done this maybe two or three times, but it was so traumatic I forgot, so it's like the first time again.

00:01:10 John Daub: Alright, hope you're ready for adventure. Thanks for joining in Kesennuma, famous for the 2011 Great Tohoku Earthquake and tsunami that devastated the town. I've shared stories in recent live streams—over 10 years, it's gone from war zone to revitalized with new buildings. We're here for this fishing. Captain's settling people in. "Jiman Maru 3 [?]." Thank you. This is radar—you can see fish, but that's just static, nothing.

00:02:12 John Daub: If we don't catch fish, we have bread and coffee. Fishing in Kesennuma, Miyagi Prefecture, Japan. We have standard light tackle spinning outfits, 12-pound class with braided line, little plastic worm lure like a crayfish with a sinker and hook through the body. Fish grab it and hook themselves—like black bass fishing. Pretty easy for rockfish. Don't jinx it—they showed a big one down there. That's what we're going for. This is the port on the other side, nice 30-minute drive from the hotel via Route 26.

00:04:29 John Daub: "Jimby two." Wow, is that 5G? I know I'm gonna fall in. You took seasickness pills? I never take pills. Bon voyage—waving to people, but nobody's there. On the other side of the Pacific, weather's surprisingly warm for December, about 9°C, but wind's chilling now. Buckling up—this belt inflates if tossed in. I'm a dive master, swimmer, survivor—enjoy the 15-minute ride. No idea on signal out here, fingers crossed. You're with me on adventure live—hooray, it's my theme song, slightly heavy metal. Whoa, waves—I wish I had my scuba rig to look fish in the eyes before catching.

00:07:48 John Daub: Seagulls here—where were you this morning when crows bothered me? Fifteen minutes to the rockfish spot—maybe maguro, but these poles can't handle it. Overcast day, clouds in distance, not far off Kesennuma coast in Miyagi. Hey Jeff Bang, Bradshaw's Studio—sup Game Pro. Shark fishing's popular here, but no Jaws in this small boat. This is Kesennuma, Japan, not Amity, Massachusetts. Halfway to fishing spot—glad you're joining, feels good on open water. Waves strong enough for live stream, why not bring you along.

00:13:34 John Daub: Something jumped—mackerel? Birds over there see something—"Nabuda" or "Toriyama." Lots of birds, like Hitchcock movie. Getting close, gonna park in reverse like everyone in Japan—no anchor at Toriyama out point. Middle of nowhere, not jumping in. This is the spot—nice. Gotten quiet, warm—not as cold as thought, 10-15 minutes out. Rocky coast. Water's pretty clear, about 6 meters or 18-20 feet deep—I could touch bottom if naked. Captain brought knife, wasabi, soy sauce—might eat sashimi right here, sea-to-table. If we catch big one, cut it up on boat—crazy. Only 2 hours total, live stream about 45 minutes.

00:17:23 John Daub: Sometimes fish in seconds, or couple minutes—lots here, up to 60cm, massive, fattened on food in area. Like good sushi shops with live fish from aquarium—this could get weird live. Anything can happen. "Tension foreigner?" They're fishing. Fishing posse. Asked if fishing—no, gonna try. No float, let it sit. Feel rockfish swimming around—clear water, see bottom. Danny Tran, fingers crossed. Any nibbles? Wish we had radar to see fish below. Out in Kesennuma—pretty sweet.

00:21:34 John Daub: Which way's better? Right handle. Don't know what I'm doing—gotta pull, cast without crossing streams, Ghostbusters. Child safety on reel—two-handed cast, put phone down. Okay? Cast button—hold like this, leave line out, flip bail, swing out, let go. Let sink to bottom, bail back, wait for stop. Now do this—watch me, rod tips down, flip. Drifted under boat—strong current. Easier: drop straight down under boat, touch bottom so fish think alive. Hop it—90% bite. Line goes flat on bottom. Rockfish on bottom in weeds—hoppity hop, hopefully bite.

00:28:56 John Daub: If bite, they'll yank—you'll know, hold tight. This lure looks like crayfish—various vermin fish eat. Convincing, but I'd deep-fry 'em. Line cut—not good sign, could take while. Hoped for fish in 30 seconds—moving to new spot, fish elsewhere, no schedule. Kesennuma in distance. Hold tight. New spot with plants, rocks—lure to bottom, bounce like food, rockfish go "wow, food!" and yank. Humans eat them—humanity. After tsunami, debris in water 10 years ago, but sea renewed, extremely clean now. Ecosystem changed—less food for fish?

00:34:09 John Daub: Nice adventure, moving again. Saikyut, thanks—calls help fish. Small trouble with line. Stranded in sea—just us. Rockfish, give good content. Pacific looks like Atlantic or Indian—waves, wind, ripples. If I said North Atlantic, you'd not know. No Coast Guard—far away. Alex Carter part fish? Guide us. Pick side. No horn—scramble away. In Kesennuma bay, best fishing in Japan—people from Okinawa coming. On road again—found rocks.

00:41:10 John Daub: Near rocks, hide in captain's berth. Team reeling—catch in three seconds? Amateur lure. Beautiful. Rockfish between rocks. Senses say 45 seconds to something—bones tingling, or just cold. Wanna plant OIJ flag on island, claim for community—no humans there? Signal holding—cool out here. Not long now. Tebanski, reason no humans: no electricity. Could live week in shack—like Michonne's island in Walking Dead. Don't read manga. Gilligan's Island—unless Ginger/Mary Ann, swim ashore; leave Mrs. Howell for Peter von Gomm, I'd be professor, he Gilligan. Marianne underrated—all eyes on Ginger/Mrs. Howell.

00:47:35 John Daub: Any moment. New boats—good location. Staying till catch—two hours max. New channel 85k subs, good family—dropping video soon. Monday to Kochi Prefecture. Had nibble—whoa! Big bites, didn't feel—biting but missing hook. Good sign, moments away—sashimi today. Chapter listings for playback. Lures delicious-looking, different from last year's black sea bream. Who's first? Feel them—biting, big one! Won't be long—someone's getting it. Moments from amazing catch.

00:52:41 John Daub: Team 2 fighting near rocks—18m deep. Raymond Centeno—here fishy. Need cat on board? Cats don't like boats. Sea dogs yes, sea cats no—catfish have whiskers. Bottom 12m, super clear—polarizer to see bottom. Clean water, beautiful day. No dropping phone—you're inside it. If stranded, jump rocks, SOS, fire, catch fish, barbecue. Three times lucky. Color stunning—have drone, but wanna catch/eat first. Bite! Moments away—let fall again, rockfish locks on. Hundreds down there, colony. Hat backwards—wind traps in brim.

00:58:40 John Daub: Lots fish below—even sharks, tuna. Not catching? Hit like button—fish feel digitally, wanna be famous on YouTube. Few likes now. Fish sense worth being caught, eaten. Pulley 10 likes—awful. Bit again—sharp teeth for crustaceans, shells. Rockfish chomp rocks—not pretty, no mermaid. Keeping eyes peeled for marine life, Aquaman—nemesis Black Manta in cartoon. Got him! Tension. Biting—coming. In Kesennuma fishing rockfish for lunch—if no catch, elsewhere. Smart fish nipping carefully—not aggressive, instinctual, but eventually hook in mouth.

01:02:57 John Daub: When there's a will... octopus catcher—octopi, not eight pies. Hungry for pie now. Fish outsmarted—spot three, spots better. Like lures but not biting deep—evolution, wised up. If fish, I'd bite—add wasabi? Fish university there, now uneducated corner. Customers of captain. Beautiful—Kesennuma, Miyagi, Pacific—straight to Hawaii. Signal amazing. Giant squid catches us. Signal fading—boost in three... didn't work, no booster. Refresh browser. Fishing rod antenna? Moments from rockfish—must eat what catch, last chance. Good feeling—people from Japan come here.

01:10:47 John Daub: Special day on boat, catch fish, drinks—but pandemic, just home. 12-13m deep, 30-40 feet. Silver lure? Strong feeling—hunger pangs? Got something! Whoa—came at camera! Big teeth. Not professor, student. Looks good—lunch? Small size okay, size doesn't matter—picture for magazine. Fish can't say cheese. Too small—let go. Hope doesn't warn friends. If fish president, gather people—don't let go, like Walking Dead, they lie. Thousand fish rebel? Benevolent—we let one go, so next eaten fair.

01:17:53 John Daub: WigAlert to Lucky Worm Fund. Bit lure. Mission—winds southwest. Net fishing cruel, not sport—man vs. fish. Voodoo doll lure so we feel bites—mini John lure, feel every bite, fish wins if head. Wrong bait? No, biting lots—caught one. Stream ends eating something. Optimistic—three seconds. Getting cold—mask helps. Caught small, gave mercy. Net fishing? Get out water. Couple more minutes—wanna eat. Big one! Lost signal—caught lunch? B team. Not many fish this year, wind strong. Final push—90 minutes in, signal on/off.

01:26:23 John Daub: Fingers crossed—chilly. Lots fun, outdoors mystery. Missed—locked on lure. 888 lucky. Demolished lure—half gone, every spot. Biting but outsmarting—nibble/spit. Cyborg fish? Never disrespect. No Spongebob here. Got it! Art to it—feel pole/lure/fish, use Force. Pole extension of arm—like camera for me. Live from Kesennuma, Miyagi—3.5 hours north Tokyo Shinkansen to Ichinoseki [?], then train. Popular fishing, fertile waters—but changed post-earthquake, less food, windy today.

01:34:30 John Daub: Shinkansen cheap with JR East Welcome Rail Pass—$100-120 for 3 days unlimited till Feb 26. Got here that way. Careful ticket blows—stuck forever. Cut default fish? Backup in tank—feels wrong, didn't earn. Viewers say no—spare them. Did fish once. One more spot—8 min battery. No cheat, three-hour tour? Might not make back—Gilligan's Island. No plan B. Nature/skills mismatch—theirs. Watch time high—three hours good. Better signal—one more time, 13m bottom. Birds on coast.

01:42:57 John Daub: Beginner's luck? Waiting to fish. Got one—fugu! Sugoi. Picture—blowfish, poisonous, need license. Can't eat—not best fish. Caught/released—back warning friends we're benevolent? Not ideal—failed fishing? No eat tank fish. Crushed ego—they fished. If catch more, Instagram/YouTube community. Battery dying—later from Pacific. Sad? Journey on—later gator.

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