Tokyo's Edo Architecture and Imperial Gate Street View Sakuradamon
Tokyo's Edo Architecture and Imperial Gate Street View Sakuradamon
Overview
In this historical walking tour, John Daub explores the Sakuradamon area adjacent to the Imperial Palace in Tokyo. Standing at the historic Sakuradamon (Sakurada Gate), John delves into the pivotal Sakuradamon Incident of 1860, where Chief Minister Tairo Ii Naosuke was assassinated by rōnin samurai. This event marked a turning point in the Bakumatsu period, accelerating Japan's opening to the West and the eventual Meiji Restoration.
The walk continues past the striking red brick Ministry of Justice Building, designed by German architects in the Meiji era, before entering Hibiya Park. Inside the park, John reveals a hidden gem often overlooked by tourists: a replica of the Liberty Bell gifted by General Douglas MacArthur and American companies at the end of the Occupation. The video combines on-site exploration with deep historical context, explaining how these locations shaped modern Japan.
Filmed in late December 2020, the area is quiet due to the pandemic and the approaching Shōgatsu (New Year) holidays. John emphasizes the safety and openness of the Imperial Palace outer grounds, noting its popularity with runners due to the 5-kilometer loop free of traffic lights. This video is essential viewing for history buffs and travelers wanting to understand the layers of history beneath Tokyo's modern surface.
Highlights
- 00:00:00 Introduction at Sakuradamon Gate near the Imperial Palace.
- 00:01:53 Discussion on WWII firebombing and reconstruction of the gate.
- 00:03:57 Explanation of Soto Sakuradamon (Outer Gate) vs. Uchi Sakuradamon (Inner Gate).
- 00:05:10 Details on the Sakuradamon Incident and assassination of Ii Naosuke.
- 00:08:09 Context on Commodore Perry, Black Ships, and Japan's seclusion.
- 00:17:52 History of the red brick Ministry of Justice Building and German architects.
- 00:21:02 Mention of the 1930s assassination attempt on the Emperor and Japan-Korea relations.
- 00:28:40 Entering Hibiya Park and viewing Meiji-era arc lamps.
- 00:29:43 Discovery of the Liberty Bell replica gifted by General MacArthur.
- 00:36:51 Comparison of Hibiya Park to Central Park in New York.
- 00:41:52 Explanation of Mount Mikasa and the Kenkō Hiroba (Health Square).
- 00:47:27 Story of the Englishman who jumped into the Imperial moat.
- 00:52:59 Closing thoughts on travel, history, and safety during the pandemic.
Timeline / Chapters
- 00:00 - Introduction at Sakuradamon Gate
- 00:03 - Imperial Palace Running Loop
- 00:05 - The Sakuradamon Incident (1860)
- 00:08 - Commodore Perry and Opening of Japan
- 00:16 - Ministry of Justice Building History
- 00:21 - 1930s Assassination Attempt & Korea Relations
- 00:27 - Walking to Hibiya Park
- 00:29 - The Liberty Bell in Hibiya Park
- 00:36 - Hibiya Park vs. Central Park
- 00:41 - Mount Mikasa and Health Square
- 00:47 - The Imperial Moat Incident
- 00:50 - Closing and Travel Update
Japan Travel Tips
- Access: Sakuradamon is accessible via Sakuradamon Station on the Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line.
- Running: The Imperial Palace outer grounds offer a perfect 5-kilometer loop with no traffic lights, popular among runners.
- Safety: This area is heavily patrolled by the Metropolitan Police Department; it is considered one of the safest in Tokyo.
- Drones: Flying drones near the Imperial Palace and government buildings is strictly prohibited; enforcement is immediate and fines are heavy.
- Timing: Late December (Shōgatsu period) is quiet with fewer people, making it ideal for historical walks.
- Hibiya Park: Look for the Liberty Bell replica near the center; it is often overlooked but historically significant.
- Etiquette: Do not attempt to enter the Imperial Palace moats; past incidents have led to deportation and fines.
Japanese Language & Culture Notes
- Sakuradamon Incident (桜田門外の変): The assassination of Tairo Ii Naosuke in 1860 by rōnin from the Mito Domain. It signaled the weakening of the Tokugawa Shogunate.
- Soto vs. Uchi: Soto means outer, Uchi means inner. The gate is technically Soto Sakuradamon, distinguishing it from the inner gate closer to the citadel.
- Shōgatsu (正月): Japanese New Year holidays. Many businesses close, and people return to hometowns.
- Rōnin (浪人): Masterless samurai. In this context, they acted independently to assassinate a government official.
- Tairo (大老): Great Elder, the highest ranking official in the Tokugawa Shogunate.
- Kenkō Hiroba (健康広場): Health Square within Hibiya Park, designed to promote public health.
- Kasa (笠): Woven hat. Mount Mikasa was named because the land shape resembled three woven hats.
People
- John Daub: Host and narrator. Provides historical context and personal observations while walking through Tokyo.
- Ii Naosuke (Historical): Chief Minister assassinated at Sakuradamon in 1860. John highlights his bravery and role in opening Japan.
- General Douglas MacArthur (Historical): U.S. General who suggested gifting the Liberty Bell to Japan post-Occupation.
- Hermann Ende & Wilhelm Böckmann (Historical): German architects who designed the Ministry of Justice Building.
- Kanae Daub: John's wife, mentioned in the closing greeting but not present in the video.
Key Takeaways
- The Sakuradamon Incident was a catalyst for the Meiji Restoration and Japan's modernization.
- Hibiya Park contains a replica of the Liberty Bell, a symbol of peace and democracy gifted after WWII.
- The Imperial Palace outer grounds are accessible to the public and offer a unique 5K running route.
- Understanding local history significantly enhances the travel experience in Tokyo.
- Drone laws are strictly enforced around government buildings and the Imperial Palace.
Notable Quotes
- 00:05:10 "That's what it looked like back in the Edo period; that's exactly where we are, which is pretty crazy."
- 00:09:20 "Being friends had a price with America in this case because he ended up losing his life."
- 00:12:02 "My own safety is nothing when I see the danger threatening the future of the country."
- 00:14:21 "I always try to look at the bright side. The sacrifice and the work that Ii Naosuke put in had a big impact."
- 00:29:43 "He wanted to give this to them as a symbol of peace and prosperity in their new democracy."
- 00:36:51 "For me, not Yoyogi, but Hibiya is the Central Park of Tokyo."
- 00:47:27 "If you want to start an international scandal, just jump into it. Don't do that."
- 00:52:59 "History is also one of the most important things when you do travel to understand because it really enhances your trip."
Related Topics
- Edo Castle Ruins
- Meiji Restoration History
- Imperial Palace Outer Gardens
- Hibiya Park History
- Tokyo Running Routes
- U.S.-Japan Relations Post-WWII
Search Tags
#only-in-japan-go #tokyo #sakuradamon #imperial-palace #hibiya-park #edo-history #meiji-restoration #liberty-bell #japan-travel #tokyo-walk #ii-naosuke #kasumigaseki #japan-history #travel-tips
Full Transcript
00:00:00 John Daub: Hello, welcome to Tokyo. This is the Imperial Palace area, the side of Tokyo. There's a lot of open space over there that leads towards the modern Marunouchi side of Tokyo Station. We're going to be taking a look at a very historical area of the city. It's hard not to be when you're at the Imperial Palace. Look at the shadow showing some of the Edo architecture in the stone wall over there. This in front of us right here is part of Sakuradamon (Sakurada Gate). A lot of stuff happened here.
00:00:38 John Daub: There's something called the Sakuradamon Incident, which we're going to go over. I wanted to show you this side of the city because it's safe. There really isn't a lot of people here, and it's so wide open and spread out that I feel pretty comfortable in a pandemic to be in this area. At the end of the year, the city of Tokyo is pretty chill. Starting tomorrow, we start the New Year's holidays, shōgatsu (New Year). A lot of people are off work anyway, working at home, but things are going to start to really quiet down.
00:01:12 John Daub: So let me show you a map here first of all, and we're going to dive into some of the history of Tokyo between the Edo period and the Meiji era. Right here is where we are, boom, and this is Sakuradamon. There's actually a subway station here called Sakuradamon, so you could just get off the subway here. But there's nothing really here of interest to see except for the history, if you know about it. Not too far away inside of here is where the emperor lives, so I'm pretty much just a stone's throw away from royalty. Let's go underneath this Edo period gate.
00:01:53 John Daub: Now, in 1945, March 1945, firebombing in World War II, a lot of this was destroyed. It's hard to know what exactly is original and what isn't—a lot of it was reconstructed following World War II. March 10th, 1945 was what many people consider to be the most devastating bombing raid in the history of the world. Some historians have said that; some have said it was in Germany. I'm not really sure, but I just know that Tokyo was really hurt badly in those raids. I love this view right here, and this is probably what I'll use for the thumbnail. This is Sakuradamon, the gate. In the distance, you can see the red brick Justice Ministry building that was built at the turn of the century, the 1890s, by two Germans, so it has a German design, which makes it extremely interesting architecturally.
00:03:17 John Daub: That's the gate we just walked through. A lot of runners will go underneath here—this is all open to the public. You're going to see over the next couple of minutes a ton of runners doing a loop around the Imperial Palace, which is 5 kilometers, 3.1 miles for one loop—it's a perfect 5K. A lot of my friends, when you do come to visit, staying near the Imperial Palace—no traffic lights. You can just go for 5K straight. That's sort of a big deal in one of the big cities of the world, right?
00:03:57 John Daub: Let me go over some of the history as I show you the sign here. This is Sakuradamon, but they're calling it here Soto Sakuradamon—soto (outer) meaning the outside of Edo Castle. Edo Castle no longer exists, but you can see the ruins of it on the other side of the Imperial Palace grounds in the center of Tokyo. The base of the old Edo Castle still remains. Currently called Sakuradamon, this gate is officially named Soto Sakuradamon, as opposed to Uchi Sakuradamon (inner gate)—uchi (inner) near the citadel. These gates are named Sakuradamon because the area was also called Sakurada-go (Sakurada town) in the past—go (town). Soto Sakuradamon Gate has a dual structure consisting of the Korai Gate on the outside and the Watariagura Gate on the inside with a square in between. It covers an exceptionally large area, approximately 1056 square meters. As a highly defensive castle gate for the Nishinomaru West Compound.
00:05:10 John Daub: On March 3rd, 1860, the Japanese Chief Minister, Tairo Ii Naosuke, was assassinated by a group of samurai from the Mito Domain outside of the Soto Sakuradamon Gate in an event known as the Sakuradamon Incident. This had a big impact in the direction of Japan back in 1860, and that happened right here—exactly right where we are right now. That's what it looked like back in the Edo period; that's exactly where we are, which is pretty crazy. Just keep that in mind as you take a look right here at the walls, which are probably close to original. When you pan down, you see the Peninsula Hotel straight ahead in Ginza, the Shinkansen streaking by. You can see the Fujiya cake shop sign just on the bottom there. Interesting, right? Tokyo Tower, I believe you'll be able to see in this direction. That is the Metropolitan Police Department headquarters right there, and over there is the Building of Justice. If you keep going straight, you'll see the Diet, the National Parliament—they call it the Diet here in Japan.
00:06:41 John Daub: Here's a picture of the battle—an inkjet print, so the colors on my inkjet printer are not that great. You can see just a lot of people bloody and a lot of swords out there—that's right here, Sakuradamon. The Sakuradamon Incident was the assassination of Chief Minister Ii Naosuke on the 24th of March, 1860 by rōnin samurai of the Mito Domain. In 1860, Ii Naosuke was the most influential advisor to the shogun. He was the leading figure in the Bakumatsu period, a proponent of opening up to the West. The samurai and the shogun, of course, did not want to open up the country—they wanted to keep it closed. There were factions within the government that wanted to open up; he was one of them, and he was assassinated. Perhaps Japan would have opened up a lot sooner had he not been assassinated.
00:08:09 John Daub: Japan had 200 years of seclusion—it was shut down. Commodore Perry and the Black Ships steamed into Tokyo Harbor with cannons. They'd never seen anything like it—powerful cannons that could shoot. From what I've heard from history and read, Tokyo Bay came a lot further in than it is now, and Commodore Perry and the Black Ships apparently could shoot cannon from out there in Tokyo Bay and hit the Imperial Palace. I heard that's how close it was. Now they've built manmade land that kind of separates us, but if you just go this way, it's only a couple of kilometers or less to the Sumida River in Tokyo Bay. So you could fire cannons into the Imperial Palace, and of course that scared the heck out of everybody here. When you start hearing cannons that can be fired at such an amazing distance, I think people respected the power of the United States in the 1860s when the Black Ships came in 1853.
00:09:20 John Daub: Ii Naosuke was targeted after he signed the 1858 Treaty of Amity and Commerce with the United States—amity meaning friendship. Being friends had a price with America in this case because he ended up losing his life. He was also quoted as saying that he did not fear for his safety because he felt he was doing the right thing. So you have to respect that, Mr. Ii Naosuke. I'm glad we get a chance to shine a light on this brave guy who opened up the country. He was criticized for reinforcing the authority of the Tokugawa Shogunate against regional daimyō through the Ansei Purge. There's a lot of history that we just don't know about. Each time I do one of these, it takes me a step closer to unlocking more of Japanese history. Ii Naosuke had made strong enemies in the dispute for the succession of Tokugawa Iesada. There were a lot of Tokugawa shoguns after Ieyasu—he was the first, then the Tokugawa family, which had factions in Mito and also in the Satsuma Domain down in Kagoshima, which had a very strong samurai presence.
00:10:36 John Daub: If you ever saw the Tom Cruise movie The Last Samurai, Ken Watanabe's character was Saigō Takamori—that's an actual person who you can see a statue of in Ueno Park; he's the samurai walking the dog. I thought it was not a great movie—Tom Cruise wore boots inside the tatami mats to go meet the emperor. Who does that? Even the producer should have known: take your boots off to go meet the emperor, for crying out loud. Ii Naosuke was criticized for wanting to open up the country, and as a result, the rōnin decided to take the law into their own hands, which apparently happened a lot in Japan, and assassinated him. Just be very respectful—his spirit might still be in this area. The assassination took place on the 24th of March, 1860, on Double Third Festival, where all daimyō stationed in Edo were scheduled to enter Edo Castle for meetings.
00:12:02 John Daub: The assassins attacked his entourage just outside the castle near Sakuradamon Gate, where he was reaching the premises. He'd been warned about his safety, and many encouraged him to retire from office, but he refused, replying that "my own safety is nothing when I see the danger threatening the future of the country." Wow, that's a patriot. His entourage was comprised of about 60 samurai guards and palanquin carriers—he was carried here in palanquins. A total of 17 Mito rōnin ambushed him with one leader. A Japanese-made Colt 1851 Navy revolver was involved, which had been copied from firearms that Commodore Matthew Perry had given to the shogunate as a gift. That was the gun that shot Ii Naosuke, and then a samurai went in after he was down and beheaded him. Thus changed the direction of Japanese history for at least 8 to 10 years or so.
00:13:32 John Daub: The Meiji Restoration took place anyway in 1868, and the country was opened up—there was no way; the momentum had started and the downfall of the old Edo period was inevitable. The new Meiji era was just writing on the wall, and they were trying their best to delay it. There was actually fighting for power going on between the Mito and Satsuma clans—they knew it was going to end, and they were fighting for power grabs so when it did end, they came up with more land or wealth. This was all a big power grab that had repercussions later on, and it all happened right here. I love the history, right? It's very cool.
00:14:21 John Daub: JXB1A, B1A2, thank you so much—what a lovely gift. Merry Christmas plus two days. Thank you. I want to show you the area because we're going to be moving on from here in a second. Sakura from Europe, thank you with the punch and dog. Tony P, who's also celebrating, is here with the dog. I always try to look at the bright side. The sacrifice and the work that Ii Naosuke put in had a big impact. After he was assassinated, it also recharged the spirit to move towards the West and open up the country, but it also empowered the samurai with that samurai spirit. Because their assassination succeeded, it really empowered them, thus setting off a chain of dominoes in both directions. So this incident had a lot of repercussions.
00:15:36 John Daub: We're going to move away from here in the Imperial Palace—it's about 3:30, so the sun's starting to go down pretty quickly. Just behind the Metropolitan Police Building or in this direction is Tokyo Tower, so we might get a look at it. After we cross the street here, talk a little bit more about another incident that took place here. Let's get our masks on because we're getting closer to some people. There's another incident that happened here that had repercussions on the direction of Japan and the history of our relationship with Korea, which is the next talk I'm going to be doing as we get to the traffic signal here. This is Sakuradamon Station—again, here's the sign right there, and there's the moat. No drones here—they're very strict. Trust me, they will come down on you so hard if you try to fly a drone. I'm laughing because I've heard stories of people who tried here.
00:16:36 John Daub: You can see it really has not changed that much when you look at the pictures between 1870s and today. I like that they keep it looking very Edo style. Every neighborhood in Japan has one of these signs that will announce how many people have died in the area, how many were injured—and almost always it says zero. So it's kind of a good sign when you see none. That building over there on the right side is the red brick Justice Ministry building, and it sits on the site of another Edo period ruin. But that also has a lot of history to it. It's such a weird building—it's a beautiful building, but it's weird. Because what is it doing here in Tokyo, right? Very German style to it because it was designed by two Germans.
00:17:52 John Daub: Here's a picture of them—Hermann Ende with two N's, and Wilhelm Böckmann, and Kōzō Kawai. These are the architects of this building here, the old Ministry of Justice building, or the red brick building of Justice. This building designed by two German architects who were invited by the government of Japan in the Meiji era. It was constructed in 1895 with the participation of a Japanese architect, Kōzō Kawai, in the stage of its planning and supervision of construction. Later at the time of the disastrous Kantō earthquake in 1923, the building suffered almost no damage because the brick walls had been reinforced with iron pillars. But it was burnt down in 1945 by a heavy air raid in Tokyo, leaving only the brick walls intact. So it was reconstructed in 1950 for use as the main building of the Ministry of Justice, replacing the natural slates of the roof by tiles. It is quite an important building.
00:19:15 John Daub: Japan did a lot of that—where it had been closed down for 200 years, it was sending people abroad to learn about Western architecture, Western design, Western thought, trying to find ways to improve the country and compete because trade was a way to accumulate wealth. You can see how strong the walls here—you don't see a lot of red brick buildings in Japan. So I'm sure this cost them a lot of money. From what I understand, if you do fly a drone, the police can detect the radio signals—they know that you're flying a drone, and they come within a minute. I had a friend who tried to fly it—I told him not to do it, but he did it anyway in Roppongi of all places around the embassies. They were on him within a minute. First of all, he couldn't launch the drone—it got up a couple of meters and then it came down. He took it and ran into a Starbucks, and they found him. They confiscated his drone after a wasted day—they let him go, I don't remember if they fined him, but there's fines of up to $5,000 or so. In the end, he never got his $2,000 drone back—they said he could have it back in four months, but he came back to try to get it and they wouldn't give it to him.
00:21:02 John Daub: Before we leave this area, I just wanted to say one more thing about an incident that happened not too long after that. Another incident happened in the 1930s—the emperor was leaving on this exit, this gate. At the time, there was a lot of occupation of Korea going on, and a Korean independence movement supporter tried to assassinate the emperor right there in the 1930s. Of course, he was arrested and executed not too long after, thus really hurting the relationship between Japan and Korea even more. During the occupation it was already pretty bad, but after World War II had ended, in the 1960s or so, this is why the relationship between Korea and Japan continues to remain strained. Japan is trying to move on; Korea is not. They put the guy who tried to assassinate the emperor on a postage stamp and gave him hero status. I don't know if that's the best way to go, but they did that—I guess in the 1990s, he received a Korean postage stamp like 30 years after his death, and they built statues and celebrate him. I probably don't think that would be the best way to repair a relationship, but it happened. So did the history—the occupation happened too. It's a tough time; it's just hard to move on from that when you keep poking each other's eyes out.
00:23:14 John Daub: That 1930s assassination attempt is also in the record history books here. This is a picture of the remains of the Edo era residence of Yonezawa Uesugi family—Yonezawa is in Yamagata [?]. And it's now just the remains of it here, with the red brick building in the background. That used to be right here, as well as the water supply in case of an emergency or natural disaster—that building over there. Pretty interesting history, right? Marcus, Miki, welcome—new traveler and Twitchies here from Canada. I really love these little teeny details that I didn't know too much about; I dive into when I get a chance to do stuff like this. There's a lot of police presence here—it's probably one of the safest areas of the city right here, maybe because of the assassination attempts and all the little difficulties that happened at Sakuradamon, which is over there. Right behind us is the headquarters for the Metropolitan Police, and every now and then you'll see helicopters launching from that building, which has its own towers and radio towers and everything. This is probably the safest area of the city.
00:25:07 John Daub: On the other side of the street, you can also see the wall that surrounds the Imperial Palace. There aren't a lot of stuff here—there's no hotels to really stay in; it's a quiet area. If you want to, you can stay in Ginza and just walk here in about 10 minutes because that's Ginza—that's the Peninsula Hotel in the center of your screen behind the tree. We're walking now to the corner of Hibiya Park because I want to show you one last thing. This area is stacked with history—there's even more going on here. I know Happy Rails had shown and shared some things with me, but I'd read an account that there was some place where POWs were stationed here in a building. A lot of stuff was destroyed in the firebombing of 1945, but there's just a lot of ruins. When you get into Hibiya Park, which is just on the other side of the street here, there's a ton of markers that mark things that had been there in the past that are no longer there, and markers of freedom and history.
00:27:04 John Daub: Hey, Craig Kawaguchi, welcome to the corners of Tokyo. There's a red brick building over there, Sakuradamon in the center of your screen quite a ways away now, and you can see the wall of the Imperial Palace on a nice sunny day. We started here and walked around this direction—now we're on the corner of a disaster evacuation area, which is Hibiya Park. As you walk through here, you enter into Ginza, but you can see that the Imperial Palace—if you even look on Google Maps—is such an impressive area in the center of the city. What a lot of real estate it is, and it's so green and nice. Again, it's a five-kilometer loop if you want to run around there—perfect if you want to get a run in, no traffic signals. But there's a couple of things in here that I wanted to show you, so let's jump into Hibiya Park. I love the way that they keep some of that Meiji era, early 20th century feel to the gates of Hibiya Park here, despite all of those new office buildings in the distance.
00:28:40 John Daub: These were ten arc lamps installed through the park when it first opened—it is said that it had a brightness of 1,200 candles. 70 gas lamps were also installed. The designs of the lamps consisted with the cast iron drinking fountains found at the base of Mount Mikasa—one of each has been preserved in the park as mementos of the Meiji period. They measured it in terms of candle power—so each one of these lights had 1,000 candle power. Pretty cool. We've just entered here on the Iwabuchi Gate side of Hibiya Park, and right around here, again, this is a new smoking area, but they had disaster water supply in places like this.
00:29:43 John Daub: I want to take you there because I don't think a lot of people saw that live stream—it's from two years ago. During the occupation, America was here for a pretty solid decade, and before leaving, Japan was gifted a very interesting item up there in the distance behind that tree that's been covered—get a little blanket on it to keep it nice and warm. This is also the site of a ruin as well, that mountain up there. But this right in the center is, as somebody who grew up near Philadelphia, this felt really good to see. I didn't actually know about this until two years ago—I had no idea that General MacArthur had gifted a Liberty Bell to the Japanese people. It stands right in front of you right now—that's a replica of Philadelphia's Liberty Bell. He wanted to give this to them as a symbol of peace and prosperity in their new democracy.
00:31:32 John Daub: This Liberty Bell was gifted when America was leaving at the end of the occupation, handing over Japan back to the Japanese and they started the democratic government that they have today. He gifted this so that they would remember freedom and how hard they had worked in order to get to this point where they have peace and to keep peace at all cost. For me as somebody who grew up in Philadelphia and had always dreamed of owning a $100 bill—which I never really had until I was in college—you guess you have Philadelphia and Independence Hall in the back of the $100 bill, but it's just kind of neat to see the Liberty Bell inside Hibiya Park, right? It used to ring every noon. I came here at noon two years ago when I did the live stream here, and at noon it just kind of oscillated but never got up high enough where it would ring. I asked some people who were in the area, like some of the managers of the park, and they said that it rang so loud that it disturbed the people in the office buildings all around here, so they stopped doing it. Somebody else said after the 2011 earthquake, the structural integrity was a little bit questionable, and by ringing it they didn't want to destroy it. Liberty does not ring anymore.
00:33:17 John Daub: There's power going to it—it's supposed to ring every day at noon and three, I think. I tried to look for the crack, so apparently they made it without the crack. "Dedicated to you, a free citizen in a free land. This reproduction of the famous Liberty Bell in Independence Hall, Philadelphia, was presented to the people of Japan by a group of American companies at the suggestion of General Douglas MacArthur. This presentation was arranged by the Honorable John W. Snyder, Secretary of the United States Treasury. The dimensions and tone are identical with those of the original Liberty Bell when it rang out the independence of America in 1776, becoming thereby a symbol of freedom to not only Americans, but all mankind. In standing before this symbol, you have the opportunity to dedicate yourself, as did the founding fathers of the United States, to the principles of freedom which you share with free citizens everywhere." That's powerful.
00:34:44 John Daub: A lot of people don't know that this existed, right? Nagoya John, please get something to drink—I might need something a little bit stronger after this one. I feel a little bit emotional being American and standing in front of this thing—it's a symbol of freedom. It does ring—I still have not heard it ring, ever. It oscillates at the times and there's power going to it, but it never swings where you would hear it banging against the sides of the metal there. They've got Japanese on the other side—it's pretty much the same thing translated. They call it the Freedom Bell. They don't have a crack in this bell, whereas the one in Philadelphia was dropped and there's a crack—it's part of the personality of this bell. This bell is pristine; it's beautiful, just like it was when it was manufactured. You can also see that the wood support above the bell looks very much like the one in Philadelphia. Beautiful, right?
00:36:51 John Daub: If you walk around Hibiya Park—and I love this park—this would be, I guess, it's really small, not quite the same size as Central Park in New York. But for me, not Yoyogi, but Hibiya is the Central Park of Tokyo. It's not big—again, you can already see through the trees—but it has that feeling of it, just based on where it is. Where Yoyogi is just kind of an empty space near Meiji Shrine near Shibuya, separated from the Shibuya neighborhood—this one is pretty much in the neighborhood; it's all around it are buildings. So you get kind of that feeling of Central Park, which I don't get when I'm at Yoyogi Park. If I had to compare the two, this is way better.
00:37:51 John Daub: We've been getting on the news here on Christmas Day—a lot of really tough stuff happening all around the world. Try to stay positive, everybody. I know we're getting closer to 2021, and I'm an optimistic person—I just feel like we're so close to breaking through to the other side of this. It's going to get worse before it gets better, but we're getting closer—just have to stay safe and stay away from people and stay away from family members for now. The Christmas market was here just a few days ago—it ended on Christmas Day and that was kind of neat, although a little bit scary because it got kind of crowded. Japan until a few days ago had been okay—the situation here is not as bad as outside, at least we think that. But one of the problems is that you can't get complacent with this, and it is at its highest levels yesterday and today than it was all through the entire year. So still have to keep our fingers crossed and stay home more than going out.
00:39:36 John Daub: This is interesting here—this is Mount Mikasa, a small hill made of pond mud, and the Kenkō Hiroba (health square)—kenkō (health), hiroba (square). It's the first forum in a Tokyo park for promoting health. You got a picture of people in kimono hanging out on top of the hill—that's the Kenkō Hill on the other side over there. They had a swimming pool in here—1943 pool, Shōwa 18. And then there were some animals kept in the park here, two bear cubs. It's interesting to see some of the history and the signs, and I love the fact that the city of Tokyo has put in a lot of signs in English. The Imperial Hotel is over there, which is where the Queen of England stayed, and Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe stayed during their honeymoon. I had no idea until a few years ago that Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe took their honeymoon to Japan—they were ahead of the times. Now a lot of people are taking their honeymoons to Japan.
00:41:52 John Daub: You don't see a lot of tennis courts in Japan either—you have to register and might even have to be a member in order to play here, and then you have to register a time. I think you can do most of that online, but there used to be a registration book where you'd have to sign in. Every now and then somebody will cancel so you can just come here and wait for one to open up, but in the summer it's pretty hard. Now we're going up to the top of Three Umbrella Hill. Mount Mikasa, the area west of the tennis courts including the hillock, is called Mount Mikasa. The hillock is an artificial one made with leftover soil from the construction work—it was used to make ponds when the park was constructed. At the time it was created, the physical shape of the whole area resembled three woven hats or kasa (woven hats) in Japanese, and it got its name Mikasa (three woven hats). Due to improvements like the construction of the tennis courts, the mountain shape has changed, but the name remains.
00:43:51 John Daub: This might be the highest natural non-building point in the city of Tokyo—I just made that up. Let's see what kind of view we can get from Kenkō Hill. When they built it, this was such a popular place—I don't think even my wife, who's a resident of Tokyo, knows about it. For just a brief moment, I am king of the hill—I'm going to stand on that rock and proclaim it for Only in Japan. I proclaim this spot in the name of nobody because I can't legally do that, so it has no meaning. I can see the police station over there, so I better just not say anything at all. Be cool. From up here you do get a good view of the city—you can look down on everybody entering the park from the Ginza side. That tower up there is part of the Imperial Hotel.
00:47:27 John Daub: The last piece of history that just came to my mind is a funny one—about five, six years ago, there was an Englishman who got a little bit too drunk. He said that he dropped his wallet into the moat, which is just beyond the trees here. He went to the police station, couldn't understand anybody, so he had to get his wallet himself—he jumped in and dove into it on a really hot summer day to try to get his wallet back. While he was in there, he started to make a lot of commotion, and apparently helicopters from the news started to take off and swoop in—they started to cover the story like a massive news story, like some sort of attack. That's the emperor's moat—if you want to start an international scandal, just jump into it. Don't do that. In the end, he got in deep trouble and was deported, I think fined, and I don't know if they ever found his wallet. One of the swans could have taken it. So do not defy the law here—the long arm of the law in Japan is long and strong. Part of being a resident of Japan and part of society is to not break the law. Somebody is always watching—respect.
00:50:59 John Daub: One of the things that I love about Hibiya Park is that it is very steeped in history and it has all these little teeny cute buildings inside here. The more you walk around, the more you discover how pretty it is. This is a little cafe and I've had a beer there—in the summertime, nobody around, you can get a table and just sit and enjoy a cold beer or drink and some cake or something. A lot of weddings will come here and get their pictures taken. This is the last shot I'm panning around—such a beautiful day as we have the last few days. I'm going to be doing the live stream just about every day until we get to 2021—this is the beautiful Hibiya pond, the park and a fountain over on the other side of Hibiya. I love the colors.
00:52:59 John Daub: Japan has closed the borders to all foreigners because we have eight cases of the new strain of coronavirus from the UK. There's been a lot of worry, but I'll have a travel update because now you're starting to see a little bit on the trends and how 2021 is going to be shaping up right now as we hit the holidays and nothing new is going to be coming for the next two weeks. Do you have any questions? Leave them in the comments below. I'm very thankful—click the thumbs up button, show me that you like these historical walks. I need your encouragement to do these because not a lot of people end up watching these historical walks. History is a tougher sell than a cheeseburger made out of Wagyu beef or takoyaki where I burned my mouth. History is also one of the most important things when you do travel to understand because it really enhances your trip—it's a reason to travel just like food. When you know the history and you've seen the pictures, when you do visit those locations, if you do this before you travel, it really does have a big impact on the feeling and the connection with the city that you have when you're there. Not knowing the history, you miss an opportunity, I believe. So hope that this is somewhat informative and helpful. If you do stay in Ginza or this area or anywhere around the Imperial Palace, you can walk here—swing by this area of the city; it's pretty nice for a relaxing 30-minute walk. Just walk around the palace and come out to Hibiya Park and you're going to see the same stuff—and when you see with your own eyes, it's pretty impressive. Then come here at the end and have a tea—just might want to call ahead; it's a very picturesque place. I'll see you again tomorrow, and I'll be doing more indoor stuff and taking it easy in January because we're just not sure how this situation is going to shape up going forward. But stay safe, everybody—give one of your loved ones a big hug from Kanae and I, and we'll see you again tomorrow. Andrew Fort Wayne, love the history walkabouts—thanks for the encouragement, buddy. Friend Dania, thank you for the encouragement. Thanks, guys—have a good day. Bye bye.