00:00:00 John Daub: Arriving at Shintomi-cho Station (Y20) on the Yurakucho Line. Greetings and welcome to Shintomi-cho, a neighborhood in Tokyo that a lot of people don't know about. Let's wait for the Yurakucho Line to leave. Shintomi-cho—shin meaning new—was largely demolished by the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923 and then destroyed again in the March 10, 1945 firebombing. A lot of it is brand new. We're exploring everything above ground. You might not know this neighborhood, but you kind of do because it's between big attractions like Nihonbashi, Tokyo Station, Tsukiji—the old fish market—and St. Luke's Hospital.

00:01:39 John Daub: It's on the Yurakucho Line from Shinkiba—where you go to Tokyo Disneyland—and not far from Chiba, Ginza, and Yurakucho, just one stop from Ginza. It's not too far from where I live, and if you keep going, it takes you to Wakoshi in Saitama, a really pretty town near big attractions. I get flyers all the time for Brozer's Hamburgers—the burgers look really good. So up we go into the neighborhood, out Exit 4, a bit away from where most people exit, and there's a reason why. How you doing, everybody? Hey, I see Tasty Chronicles is in the house.

00:02:58 John Daub: Quick quiz: What are these on the sign? You get them at Japanese shrines—omamori (protective charms). Cool that they put it in English. Do you have omamori? Maybe because people can't go to shrines, they have digital ones now. I don't think it counts if you don't go to the shrine. All right, gates 1 through 3 are very central for Chuo-ku (Chuo Ward). We're heading to Exit 4 for a reason. You can see the Tokyo network is thorough. Sorry about the blinking—let's look at this English map. Shibuya here, Shinjuku there, Imperial Palace where the emperor lives, and we're right here at Shintomi-cho. The Yurakucho Line runs straight past the palace toward Ikebukuro—pretty convenient, and it's like my backyard since I live nearby.

00:04:26 John Daub: Inside Shintomi-cho Station is a bakery I haven't visited since last year. They put up plastic, but check out these cherry blossom croissants—I'm stopping on the way back. They have cherry blossoms on anpan too. I have a point card here, and three kinds of melonpan, including kocha (black tea) and chocolate-flavored. Interesting. That's what's in Lawson's. Let's go out Exit 4.

00:05:25 John Daub: This exit was redone for the Tokyo Olympics—a lot of stations renovated for accessibility, since many from the '70s and '80s weren't built that way. Tokyo will become one of the world's most accessible cities this decade, especially with the Paralympics. One reason for Exit 4: Shintomicho connects with Tsukiji Station above ground. Walk straight 100 meters or less, and you'll see Tsukiji on the Hibiya Line, taking you to Akihabara or Roppongi. They don't connect underground. Exit 4 is new and pretty—part of the thumbnail—and goes over the shutoko (Tokyo expressway), with the back entrance to Shintomi Inari Shrine, which we're visiting. Pan right: that's St. Luke's Hospital, set up over a century ago by an American doctor. This was the site of the first American embassy in Edo, before it moved to Akasaka—all foreigners were placed in Tsukiji. Straight 300 meters is Tsukiji Market.

00:08:39 John Daub: This is the shutoko exit ramp—I use it often living nearby. It was a dried-up river, letting them bypass ancient property rights since nobody owned the river. Built fast for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, it meanders left and right. That building is the Chuo-ku (Chuo Ward) city office with satellite offices. Most famous for Nihonbashi. Now into the back alleys on this beautiful sunny day—blue skies, fair weather, not much wind.

00:10:11 John Daub: In back alleys, you find unusual things: restaurants you didn't know existed, little neighborhood shrines—that's where we're headed. Look at this meat and veggie cheese bistro in an alley—closed until March 21st, a shame. Over here, a very old shrine surrounded by buildings built around it. In Japan, they don't move shrines—they protect them. Though modern and rebuilt many times, it's an Inari shrine (god of harvest), painted shu-i-ro (vermilion, like the sun's color)—same as Kyoto's Fushimi Inari Taisha with its 10,000 gates. Here, just one torii gate. Let's see if I have 5 yen... nope, and no Suica. Paying respects. Beautiful color, with neighborhood houses built around it. When you move to Japan—especially English teachers or expats—you find little places like this walking your neighborhood. So amazing to live next to a shrine, no matter the size. Joy Rite's right—cute shrine. Little neighborhood cats hang out there.

00:12:38 John Daub: Another important Tsukiji area feature: organic vegetable markets—you find them near Exit 5. Here's a little shop, Litas, selling bakery items like muffins and donuts from a teeny kitchen with an oven—pretty cool and modern. Right next to it, an old wood-and-aluminum Showa-era shack, post-WWII quick-build, living with the modern bakery. That's this Tokyo area. Tasty Chronicles says go back to the shrine to cover the blessing—I'm looping back anyway to find 5 yen, maybe from a vending machine. Thanks, Tasty. Gmon3Full, Big Cup of Joe—could use one. Brad Fletcher, glad you caught the stream before bed—Kanae, baby Leo, and I are great, thanks. I streamed earlier for East Coast and California prime time. Check that building—post-Great Kanto Earthquake from the 1930s. Shame about the van, but it has copper alloy turning green, symbolic of Tsukiji area.

00:16:43 John Daub: Unique plating like scales on the second floor. Not sure if it's operating. Lots of little memorials—probably marking old buildings. Across is the new tax building, finished last year—beautiful. Tax season in the US, just finished in Japan. This used to be Shintomi-za, the local Kabuki theater. Chuo Metropolitan Taxation Office. Here's the sign: former site of Shintomi-za. HNL808, thanks. Archong89, first discovered me at Akihabara's hidden shrine—using this for Kanae's pastries. Fingers crossed borders reopen this fall. I'll address questions soon. Look at this vibrant old street photo—now businesslike, but then an entertainment district with theaters like Ginza's Kabukiza (rebuilt modern). Shintomi-za built in Manji 3 (1660), taking over Morita-za. Za means theater. Morita Kanya generations of Kabuki actors. It moved, name changed from Mori (forest) to Mamori (protection). Center of Kabuki until Kabukiza opened Meiji 22 (1889). Burnt in 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake (Taisho 12). Imagine the Meiji woodblock print atmosphere. Important lost Tokyo history you feel in the streets.

00:21:45 John Daub: Strange mixing entertainment with a tax building. Let's walk these alleys. Colors of Serafina, welcome. Nice building—if staying in Tokyo, Shintomi-cho lacks Ginza name but walking distance to Ginza, Tokyo Station, Nihonbashi. There's a large APA Hotel—affordable at 5,500 yen low season, but small and cramped. Quiet neighborhood, subway close. Down this alley: mix of architecture I love. In 10 years, Showa-era low-rises gone for high-rises. Last owner probably 80s or 90s—kids will sell for apartments. Another 1960s Showa building, shacks behind, family wholesaler business.

00:24:23 John Daub: Diana Liu from Hong Kong, Gaming Mon Durox from South Dakota—working late/early. Hontou desu ka? Arigato gozaimasu. This is kitsuchin [?]. Lots of sellers near Tsukiji—Nihonbashi was the old fish market, moved 1923 post-earthquake. Empty lot for building—neighborhood changing. Shintomicho lacks personality since losing Kabuki theater a century ago in Taisho era. Residential too—nice houses, cat lovers. Someone said hi live in the area. APA owns here. Alex: touristy? No, unknown but central with hotels spilling over from crowded Tokyo. Resident adds plants for greenery—no theft.

00:27:07 John Daub: Hachobori-Shintomicho, between Hachobori (JR/Hibiya) and Shintomicho (Yurakucho)—convenient for hotels, though APA struggling. Post box—new Shinkansen postcards on Patreon: Tohoku Shinkansen in Tokiwa Green from Tokyo Station, with stamps from Tohoku series (shogi—Japanese chess). Free Discord invite—photos, general chat. I've livestreamed Hachobori's niche restaurants—fresher, quieter than Shibuya/Shinjuku. Toward Eitaibashi and Sumida River. Shogi reminds me of Akita or Iwate station with shogi clock [?]. French place? Maison Michel—ate here with Simon before he left for Canada. Gokuri vending drink—Suntory, one of my first in Japan. Old machine, no Suica—got change. Teeny matcha pet bottles.

00:33:14 John Daub: Good drink. Vending refill: Georgia coffee. Nice corner. Watch the guy fix wires. Baby Leo fine—Kanae and I exhausted but proud; he's gassy. Frank the Tank: top three beers? Changes—Sapporo Red Star, Asahi Super Dry/Fujiyama (craft-like), Kirin Ichiban (clear taste). Lunchtime: business people getting bentos at supermarkets. Central city pricier (15-20% more), harder to find—department store basements work but not ideal. Champagnisumo: oba-chan/oji-san met Leo via FaceTime—US travel trapped. Taylor: Leo, Rio [?], Kanae well—October Tokyo? Hotel recs depend on personality. First time bright lights? Shibuya. I prefer Asakusa (Taito Ward)—quiet, cultural, old buildings/traditional eats, Ginza Line direct to Shibuya (30-35 min), peaceful mornings.

00:38:26 John Daub: Apartments: 2K (living/kitchen + 6.5 tatami room), 1984 build, 35m², $1,200/month + key money/shikikin, 3 min Tsukiji/1 min Shintomicho. Clean, convenient. 1R: $650-700, 23m², 1977, Kayabacho (Tokyo Stock Exchange), tiny—no laundry. 1LDK: $1,700, 50m², 2004, 9+7 tatami, no-smoking, bike space—good deal. Strawberries, watermelons slashed. Last spot toward Tsukishima/Sumida on Harumidori—left to Monzen-Nakacho/Kachidoki. Up bridge for Tokyo Skytree view—beautiful day. St. Luke's where Leo born—relaxing, low traffic, ER private hospital. Paella food truck! Getting Kanae bento. Nova KHD: Hi Grace (mom post-stroke loves videos)—$100 for Leo, saying hi. Beautiful day, blue sky—favorite bridge Skytree view. Great community saying hi.

00:45:37 John Daub: Onto bridge in 100m. Chilly jacket weather, alive feeling. New apartments vs. Showa low-rises (1940s/50s)—sloped roofs question for architects. Old building codes from ancient city grandfathered, like Akihabara secret shrine alley (public road <1m wide). New restaurant serving lunch. Up stairwell for river sight—cherry blossoms done, walked here for Kanae in hospital. Recycling bins everywhere. Old ferry pier Showa 28 (1953)—boats to Tsukuda island. Straggler blossoms gone—spring delicate.

00:50:46 John Daub: Dozens of Sumida River bridges—main Tokyo river. Double whammy: Tsukuda island (cherry blossoms a month ago, now green) and space boat rumbling under. Space boat arches to Chuo Bridge, ends at Asakusa. John Kimura food fund to Kanae's lunch; Grace's to Leo. Cover of Bebop: wisteria next week Tohoku trip (countryside near Sendai). Beautiful park, old lighthouse—picnic here with bento, tables/playground near Tsukishima (Yurakucho). Questions? Air buggy maiden voyage pic in free Discord—HQ for chat/calls. Leo smooth. Jay: stack for Tohoku/Tottori—coming Kansai/Tottori area soon (top secret). Betty: space boat is boat bus—history tour to Odaiba, less crowded than trains/taxis. Diving cormorant (not crow/Toby)—ukai (cormorant fishing) in Gifu.

01:00:00 John Daub: Ducks sanctuary—taunt from fence. That's it—thanks for sharing time. Livestream tomorrow, travel next week. Pandemic limits excitement, but home for Leo good. Lunch for Kanae—support appreciated. Grace, hope this brightened your day. Skytree cool.