00:00:00 John Daub: Welcome to your favorite part of Tokyo, probably, maybe. Asakusa. Also known as Asakusa. I thought during this live stream, I would take you down Nakamise-dori (shopping street leading to Sensoji Temple) and the area that's usually packed with tourists, but is not right now. We're live in central Tokyo's Asakusa area. This is the third state of emergency. How you doing, everybody? I'm a resident of Tokyo, which makes it really hard to move around the country at the moment.

00:00:36 John Daub: My show, Only in Japan, is about the entire country of Japan, but it's really hard to film right now. For the next couple of weeks, I might be here in Tokyo, not moving too much. The state of emergency, this third one, is set to go on to May 31st. After that, we don't know yet. They're going to make a judgment call whether or not to extend it. There have been spikes here. The vaccine rollout has been pretty slow, but it's starting to pick up steam. I want to stay positive on that. As you can see, the city itself is pretty quiet.

00:01:14 John Daub: Over there is where you'd see the Tokyo Skytree. We're not at a really good angle to pick it up right now. There's the top of it, but you're going to see it all. For the next 30 minutes or so, join me on a walk through the historical cultural heart of Tokyo, Asakusa.

00:01:41 John Daub: We've been here before, but this is the big Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate), the big chochin (lantern). It's been renewed—it's a newer one, replaced pretty recently. It says Matsushita. Matsushita is an electronics company, and they're the ones who sponsored this, which is pretty cool. I used to have a Matsushita DVD burner 20 years ago. Underneath the chochin is a pretty elaborate wooden design. For really tall people, you could stand in there and put your head in. If you take a picture from over there, it looks like your head is the big red chochin, which means lantern.

00:02:20 John Daub: Check out Nakamise-dori now. It closes pretty early, typically just a little bit before 8 p.m. You can see it is closed, but the lights are still on. Despite the state of emergency, they're going to keep the lights on for a little bit. They encourage people not to drink alcohol right now—finish work and go home. This is my work. Greetings from Maryland. Greetings from Malaysia. Nice to see everybody here. Sorry I've been away for a while.

00:03:09 John Daub: For those who don't know, we have a health problem in the family, and it's been a really trying time. I appreciate all of you who've been pretty respectful. It's not something I want to talk about a lot—it's personal. The reason I haven't been uploading very often is health issues within the family that we're taking care of. It's a tough situation, but you've got to stay positive.

00:03:49 John Daub: I did a time lapse just before I started this live stream. It's kind of cool if you spend a minute at Kaminarimon and then walk down here, keeping a straight line. I'm going to upload this to Instagram right after the live stream. If you haven't followed me, check it out: Only in Japan TV. Notifications for live streams are on Instagram and Discord as well.

00:04:19 John Daub: You'll notice on the left and right of the shops here—these are all family-run shops. This is what I like about Nakamise-dori. It's run by an association, the Nakamise-dori Association. They're pretty strict with filming, like TV filming during business hours—you have to ask permission 10 days in advance. But they have these really beautiful paintings on the side of the shop doors that tell the story of this area. One of the most famous festivals that would be taking place this month has been suspended. Does anybody know the name? It's the Sanja Matsuri (Sanja Festival), one of Tokyo's big three festivals. It's a must-see during better times, but last year and this year, it's been suspended because of the state of emergency.

00:05:41 John Daub: It's a really vibrant festival where you can see yakuza proudly showing off their tattoos to tourists. They're very friendly on this day, and you can get some pretty cool shots. It's just too many people—a million all in one area. It would be a super-spreader event right now. Hopefully we return to this in better times in 2022—a reason to come to Tokyo in May, avoiding cherry blossom season. It's pretty nice weather here.

00:07:08 John Daub: I'm venturing off Nakamise-dori to one of the few intersections where we're making a stop. You get a nice view of the Tokyo Skytree here. By "she" I mean these characters up on the top of the roofs—kabuki actors, I believe. This is the cultural heart of the city, so you're going to see lots of cultural things looking down on you. If Nakamise-dori is really crowded, I highly recommend the alleys to the left and right—you can walk much easier. There's restrooms on the side, and that light in the center is a restroom you can sneak into. It's also a rapid way to get to Sensoji Temple, which has been around since the 8th century.

00:08:50 John Daub: Look how the vending machines have a nice little roof. It's a pretty street, isn't it? They've made the road orange, and there's an orange road that turns left about 150 meters down here. When tourists return, this is a good time to check out Asakusa. If you're coming for the first time, this might be the best place to stay. It's quieter, more fun to walk the alleys, geared towards tourists. A lot choose Shibuya or Shinjuku, but you can stay here and take the Asakusa Line or Ginza Line straight there. Loads of cultural ryokan and hotels. At night, you'd miss this vibe if staying in Shibuya or Shinjuku—you feel like you're in another world, especially if jet-lagged in the morning when there aren't people around.

00:11:16 John Daub: Here's a street going down towards Kaminarimon. The alleys here are really epic. The Tokyo that you'll visit in 2022 when tourism returns is probably going to be a little different, especially game centers. As of today, May 21st, no tourists are allowed into Japan. We're in the middle of a fourth wave, really tough, as the vaccine rollout picks up some steam. Still not where it should be, but got to stay positive and hope they figure it out.

00:12:51 John Daub: That looks like Sakamoto Ryoma, the hero of Kochi Prefecture who brought Japan together, the man of compromise. This part of the city has a dual personality—the historical side melts away into the modern world with chains, Don Quixote, shopping malls, Moss Burger, western food. Maybe the Showa era is this way, Heisei that way, Edo and Meiji back here. But today we're staying in the Edo period. Let's get moving—hanging a right back to Sensoji Temple.

00:15:05 John Daub: Despite the state of emergency, some places are still open. At night, the ones open just glow. After a little rain, it reflects beautifully—perfect for photography. This is an iPhone 12 Pro. That's monjayaki (savory pancake), famous in Tsukishima but pretty good anywhere. Businesses are supposed to close at 8 p.m.—it's the law, really tough. During normal times, all these places open big doors for street-side eating—awesome in summer with cold beers, soaking in the atmosphere. One step at a time. Richmond Hotel—make a note, good location.

00:17:30 John Daub: We're getting a blast of Japan today. This one's got sofas outside—how cool. Cafe Baru Isoichi—interesting. If you guys were with me, I'd take your photo inside the Edo period there. This looks like an old theater—they do stand-up comedy. No theater (Noh theater) is really tough for foreign tourists, residents, even Japanese unless you speak it. I helped a friend doing wakamono no Noh (Noh for young people) for college students—30 minutes in, 60% were asleep. Noh theater puts you to sleep in a good way.

00:21:02 John Daub: The construction or renovations of the pagoda here have been completed—really nice. The lights have gone out, so I guess until 8 p.m. This is Sensoji Temple in central Tokyo, founded in the 8th century with a very long history. We're walking around the temple, then circling back to Nakamise-dori. Really light foot traffic. If you like this content, give a thumbs up—if we get 1000 likes, I'll do more like this. You can still leave a prayer here.

00:23:10 John Daub: During the festival, this area is full of yatai (food stalls)—everything here, you'll fill up on street food easily. But right now, just an open park. Typically at this time of year on a weekend, full of yatai. Wondering how the yatai owners are doing—no major festivals for a year and a half, really tough. Fingers crossed the vaccine rollout picks up and the government vaccinates faster—they're doing the best they can.

00:24:05 John Daub: I even thought about going to Guam for their Air VnV (Air Vaccination and Vacation) campaign—the US gave them money to promote to Asian expats to get vaccinated there. But Rio was just born, complicated. These trees around the temple are ancient— they've done a good job protecting the exposed roots, making little chairs. You shouldn't hug city trees—they see too many people.

00:25:41 John Daub: Lights went out at 8 p.m.—ruins my fan video, but I have an A7S3, low light no problem. Mental note: lights out at 8 p.m. This was Asakusa Kagetsuro, famous melon pan shop—now a tea shop, they moved. Nowadays, really good melon pan everywhere in the area, inventive with custard, ice cream inside. No bad melon pan in Asakusa. Locals call it Asakusa—there's no wrong way. Another restroom here—looks like a love hotel right next to the temple, so wrong and so awesome.

00:27:52 John Daub: If I had a choice of vaccine, I'd say yes to anything for protection to do what I want. So many shoots canceled last couple weeks—big seasonal episodes suspended for 2022, hurts a bit. But no other YouTuber had the idea. Everything looks closed now—we started at 7:45 p.m., now 8:15, area changed. Back at the intersection with creepy characters.

00:29:14 John Daub: Walking back towards Nakamise-dori, down the side alley. Haven't had ramen from a shop in ages—imagine a crowded bowl. These alleys are express lanes—other businesses opened up taking advantage of foot traffic. Nakamise-dori is crowded and touristy, but alleys offer another quiet way to see Asakusa. During Sanja Matsuri, great view from here—colorful festival.

00:31:18 John Daub: Lights off for the big chochin—messes up my episode, but all good. This is Dorayaki (pancake sandwich with sweet filling)—they put ice cream in it, great idea, 400 yen. A lot of these restrooms from Showa era when bars were everywhere. Shotengai (covered shopping arcade)—let's do it. Mask prices down a lot—nice they have them in colors, like grey to match my eyes.

00:33:55 John Daub: Another reason to stay here over Shibuya/Shinjuku: shotengai filled with tons of shops. To survive, many now sell masks, t-shirts of the governor telling you to wear one. Nosh Abroad bubble tea out of business—sad, tourist-dependent. Yanagi Chaya finished. Some homeless here—beautiful night, but tough situations, give privacy. Love the combination: Meiji-era buildings across from vending machines—so much color. The Japan you're looking for is here, not Shibuya/Shinjuku/Akihabara—immerse yourself.

00:36:39 John Daub: Old shop from Meiji era, anomaly with trees and forest—in city center like Manhattan of Tokyo, defies urban asphalt. Little dango (skewered rice dumplings) shop. That Coca-Cola machine locked in since the '60s—competing Kirin (beverage company) ad. Japan has half a dozen big beverage companies, loads of wacky drinks. Asahi Super Dry sign off—travesty.

00:38:19 John Daub: Crossing the street—Tokyo Skytree in dark mode, stealth mode, cool like a samurai sword slicing the skyline. Big episode coming: Peter von Gomm and I had a private Shinkansen car, ate 7 ekiben (station bento) Tokyo to Shin-Aomori—loads of drone shots. Gonna make you sick for Japan. No one taking pictures, rickshaw guys gone—8 p.m. cutoff during emergency.

00:41:03 John Daub: Where you watching from? Dubai, Jakarta, Singapore, Discord, Philippines, Netherlands, Washington, New Zealand, Hong Kong, Cyprus, UK, Brazil, Hawaii, Pennsylvania, Texas, Michigan, Antarctica. Nice community—1100 watching live, ultra cool. Thanks for watching this state-of-emergency walk. I'll live stream more in May, back to normal in June—appreciate your patience and support. Bye from Asakusa—see you on Discord.