00:00:00 John Daub: Japanese ryokan. This is a room. Everybody, I'm in Aizuwakamatsu, a beautiful city in western Fukushima Prefecture, the countryside, about three hours from Tokyo. I came by Shinkansen to Koriyama, then drove over from Koriyama to Aizuwakamatsu. I've been here before, and I wanted to start quickly in the room and give you a quick view of this beautiful tatami room. All ryokan have this traditional feel, thanks to the tatami. They've already laid out my bed, the futon. It's kind of lonely. My wife, Kanae Daub, and our son, Leo, are at home. I'm making the trip, filming for another production, but I thought I'd start here and show you this beautiful room as I make my way to what's called a kashikiri ofuro (private bath).

00:01:00 John Daub: Kashikiri means private, and I'll tell you more about it when I get inside the onsen bath. For people with tattoos, if you come to Japan, there are options. You shouldn't be afraid not to go to the bath because there are places like this where you can go to a kashikiri ofuro—you pay a little extra, but you get the bath all to yourself. If you have a tattoo, it's okay. If you have a family, it's okay—you can go in with your kids. If you have a wife or girlfriend, the two of you can rent one of these special onsens and go together. It's great if you're shy and want privacy. So I'm going to take you down there right now. I've made a reservation from 11 to 11:50 and gotten special access to film—not anybody can go in there with a camera, but I've asked in advance and gotten permission.

00:01:30 John Daub: This sign means kashikiri—it's private. I'm taking you down through the hallway to the special private bath. This is awesome. This is Higashiyama Onsen in western Fukushima's castle town, Aizuwakamatsu. It's one of my favorite places in Tohoku, one of the top three onsens there. Definitely worth it. This sign has been reserved for me. When you do kashikiri, make sure you have the sign posted so nobody comes in—this means don't enter. All right, this is yours. It's been rented. Let's get inside. Leave your shoes here. Hey, Footloaf, you're totally taking a bath with me, as creepy as that might be.

00:02:46 John Daub: So many people haven't been able to make it to Japan because of the pandemic, and now I'm taking you on a bath together. This is a live stream—anything can happen, but I'm hoping it doesn't. This ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn called Shintaki—meaning new waterfall—has a lot of history and about 80 rooms. I'm staying in a fairly spacious one—you saw it before I came down. This is the changing room. These baskets are where you put your stuff. When you change out of your clothes, pick one, flip it over, and put your yukata and everything in there. I forgot my duck—it's upstairs. There are some risks to doing this, so I have to be very careful not to pan down. I've done this before, and we'll be fine—just cross your fingers.

00:04:27 John Daub: There's no reflection behind me. I'm mindful of it—nothing to see. I'm not wearing anything. I have a light for some visibility—all you see are my shoulders. I brought camera equipment and lenses for video later. The key for kashikiri—you lock it yourself. I'm not wearing anything, just this towel, staying away from mirrors. The camera's fine. I'm wearing a little mask—I'm not waterproof. This is the iPhone 12 Pro. I have to turn off Wi-Fi and go to 4G because the signal's weak, but it's okay for this first bath. Check this out—this is the first onsen bath. The water's all natural, sodium sulfate, with a slight eggy smell.

00:06:09 John Daub: This door leads to the outdoor bath—I'm taking you outside naked. There's a waterfall too—the sounds are soothing, and I'll talk about this onsen outside. I'm back. Do you hear the waterfall in the distance? There's a bucket and pail to rinse off before getting in, which is typical—I took a shower before coming. No mirrors here, so no worries. The water doesn't have much smell, but it's sodium sulfate, good for high blood pressure and healing wounds. I'll tell you about the history soon. Rinse off your body—nice. Now let's get into the bath—carefully, don't drop or fall. Ah, this feels so good.

00:09:15 John Daub: Close but no cigar—this is a private kashikiri onsen, a private bath anybody can rent. It's 25 minutes for 1,000 yen—I think it's worth it because the experience of a Japanese onsen is so important. If you come to Japan, you've got to go to a hot spring—you're missing out otherwise. Hey Sasha, thanks—enjoy your bath. I hope Japan gets more flexible with tattoos; it's getting better, and private baths like these help. Jennifer French, how you doing? I'm a professional—I'd never show something I didn't intend. This bath I rented for 50 minutes. No photography allowed despite it being private—talk with management in advance, maybe exchange business cards. We have permission to take viewers here.

00:12:03 John Daub: Higashiyama Onsen was founded 1,300 years ago in the 8th century by a Buddhist monk who followed a three-legged bird here and discovered its healing properties. It's been a popular hot spring resort for 1,300 years—one of the top three in Tohoku. There's a lot of ryokan (hot spring inn) neighborhood here—pretty and charming, but I can't walk around naked. Now to the waterfall—bring the light, it's scary. Wow, that's awesome. Check this out—you're gonna love this: naked in a bath with this waterfall view. Pan around to show the bath without me—got bit by a mosquito. Like because you're at an onsen, not because I'm naked—do it for the right reasons.

00:14:20 John Daub: That's a cool railing made from a tree branch. Here's the entrance and exit—don't jump into the river. If you're watching, in the comments below, share your Japanese onsen experiences. Have you been to Higashiyama Onsen? Were you afraid at first but it became a trip highlight? When I first came to Japan in 1998, I didn't go to a public bath—I was scared and shy. It took over a year and a half; I had no choice at a cheap Kyoto hotel without its own bath, so I went to the sento (public bath). In 1999, I confronted my fears, enjoyed it, and realized everybody else was naked—what's the big deal? Every onsen is unique—I love this one off a river in a castle city with bushido samurai culture history.

00:17:40 John Daub: Japanese sake is outstanding here—they make it locally. Food's good; I like the katsudon and source katsu. This ryokan had a wonderful kaiseki ryori (multi-course meal) dinner—seemed like a hundred dishes, wagyu beef we grilled ourselves. A ryokan stay isn't cheap—don't skimp on meals; they're half the experience with the bath. Breakfast and dinner—don't miss out for McDonald's. Spend the money; it's worth it for the traditional room and incredible meals. Now first-person view of the bath—live stream's only 720p, thank goodness. This bath's separated by rocks—oh, it's cold! I did it—it's nurui (tepid), not even cold.

00:20:27 John Daub: Old men go from hot to cold baths—some have electrical current for seniors. This colder bath makes sense after 10-15 minutes in hot water. For those joining: private kashikiri ofuro at Higashiyama Onsen in Aizuwakamatsu—25 minutes for 1,000 yen, under $10. Ryokan rooms 14,000-16,000 yen, up to 30,000 for nicer. Sweet spot 14,000-22,000 yen—don't skimp. They change seasonal menus every night for multi-night stays; second night the chef gets creative with special ingredients. Best feeling in the world—15 minutes is my threshold. If you're older, just sit naked—cool down, then back in.

00:24:01 John Daub: I streamed at night to reserve this—open till 11 p.m., late. Gotta wake at 7 a.m. Kagoshima's nice for onsens; Kyushu has many. I lived in Iwaki, Fukushima, 1999-2000—after the Tohoku earthquake, Western media called everything Fukushima, but Aizuwakamatsu's hundreds of km away. Nothing to worry about—rewarded with natural beauty at good prices. Martin J: don't like being naked? No swimsuit at onsen—it's culture. But kashikiri is private; call ahead for availability. Normal bath's free for guests—empty early morning or late night (open ~5 a.m. to midnight). If you skip onsen, you miss traditional Japanese culture—this is where Japanese come to relax.

00:28:02 John Daub: Eric Eggers, congrats on Tokyo job—your videos helped; let me know what you're curious about. To the waterfall—amazing view. They've drawn shades, maybe for rain—I'd prefer up. Enjoy the waterfall sound for 15 seconds—thumbs up. No beverages in bath. For tattoos, ask for kashikiri—no problem. Japanese don't like tattoos due to yakuza history—business decision to not scare customers. Changing with tourism; 99% Tokyo sento tattoo-friendly, like Daikokuyu near Skytree. Rules work in Japan—no bending. This is Shintaki ryokan—watch playback for room. Bath gets deeper—ease in, no swimming; it's for soaking, not pool. Tell kids—relax, don't disturb others.

00:33:15 John Daub: Ryokan ~14,000-24,000 yen depending on size/season—book popular ones 3 months ahead. Kashikiri often same-day for 1,000 yen. No cannonballs—respect rules; depth ~60 cm. Water up to here sitting deep—no towel in water, naked only. Don't ruin for others. Wild onsens exist—check my video with Greg Lam on new channel. Water ~43°C here; some 52°C. Follow rules—have permission to film. Japanese viewers shy in person but confront online—explain in Japanese too. No gaijin card after 23 years—do right thing, bushido code. Residence card now, not alien registration.

00:38:53 John Daub: One last look—thanks for sharing this. Private kashikiri ofuro costs 1,000 yen—tattoos/family/shy OK, no swimsuit but private. Up to 5-6 people? 25-min limit, last 5 for cleanup—I have 55 min. Watch uneven pavement—sandal tan. Hold on entering—slippery; I fell last year with Greg, scar still there. Love the nature. That's where I've been streaming. Extend stay if unbooked—ask front desk. No suing signs—relaxing experience. Mixed baths (konyoku) exist like Takaragawa Onsen in Gunma—private for couples too. Follow bushido—do right thing.

00:42:40 John Daub: Thanks for questions—naked Q&A live stream. Konnyoku for male/female. Informative—appreciate it. That's it—good night, bye. Thanks for joining naked live stream—questions in comments, share, thumbs up for more. Happy to travel/share after shutdown. See you tomorrow.