Akihabara Suehirochō Station to Ueno via Yamanote Tracks and Ameyoko
Akihabara Suehirochō Station to Ueno via Yamanote Tracks and Ameyoko
Overview
In this live stream walk, John Daub takes viewers on a journey from the outskirts of Akihabara to Ueno, bypassing the usual main streets to explore the spaces underneath the Yamanote Line tracks. Starting at Suehirocho Station on the Ginza Line, John navigates through Sotokanda, highlighting the revitalized artisan shopping area known as 2K540 Aki-Oka Artisan. The route offers a unique perspective on Tokyo's urban valleys, showcasing new cafes, craft beer spots, and local businesses that have emerged in the shadow of the railway infrastructure.
The walk progresses toward Okachimachi Station and enters the historic Ameyoko Market. John observes significant changes in the area, particularly the opening of a large Don Quixote chain store at the market's entrance, sparking a discussion on gentrification versus local tradition. Along the way, he samples street food, comments on the availability of seasonal cherry blossom goods, and reflects on the state of tourism in Japan during the pandemic.
Arriving at Ueno Station, John discusses the remarkable cleanliness of Japan's public spaces, attributing it to cultural concepts of shame and personal responsibility. He also shares personal anecdotes about customer service experiences with Sony and Apple Japan, contrasting their approaches. The video serves as both a virtual tour of a changing Tokyo neighborhood and a commentary on the social and economic shifts occurring in the city during a period of reduced international travel.
Highlights
- 00:00:00 John introduces the route from Suehirocho to Ueno via the Yamanote tracks.
- 00:03:57 Exploration of 2K540 Aki-Oka Artisan underneath the train tracks.
- 00:05:30 Discovery of Yanaka coffee shop and artisan hat makers.
- 00:10:05 Visit to Egg Baby Cafe, noting the menu and prices.
- 00:13:25 Spotting a spicy ramen challenge with a dramatic poster.
- 00:16:03 Arrival at Okachimachi Station and the panda/pigeon square.
- 00:18:53 Observation of the new Don Quixote at Ameyoko Market entrance.
- 00:23:25 Takoyaki stand offering 4 pieces for 200 yen.
- 00:25:01 Seasonal cherry blossom snacks and Kit Kat flavors.
- 00:30:03 Smelling roasted hojicha tea leaves being processed on the street.
- 00:32:07 Shimura's chocolate shop and the history of Ameyoko.
- 00:35:15 Discussion on the controversial new Ameyoko sign replacing the retro one.
- 00:37:33 Arrival at Ueno Station and praise for the cleaning staff.
- 00:39:35 Cultural commentary on cleanliness, guilt, and shame in Japan.
- 00:41:29 Comparison of customer service between Sony and Apple Japan.
Timeline / Chapters
- 00:00:00 Introduction at Suehirocho Station
- 00:03:57 2K540 Aki-Oka Artisan Underpass
- 00:08:17 Craft Beer and Egg Baby Cafe
- 00:16:03 Okachimachi Station Plaza
- 00:18:53 Ameyoko Market Entrance & Don Quixote
- 00:23:25 Street Food and Snacks
- 00:30:03 Roasted Tea and Chocolate Shop
- 00:35:15 Ameyoko Sign Controversy
- 00:37:33 Ueno Station Cleanliness Culture
- 00:41:29 Customer Service Rant & Conclusion
Japan Travel Tips
- Walking vs. Train: Walking from Akihabara to Ueno along the tracks takes roughly the same time as the train when accounting for station access, and offers much more to see.
- Okachimachi Exit: When heading to Ameyoko, getting off at Okachimachi Station (south exit) is often less crowded than exiting directly at Ueno.
- Ameyoko Crowds: Expect significant crowds on weekends and holidays; tourism return will likely make it impassable at times.
- Budget Eats: Look for the takoyaki stand on the corner in Ameyoko (4 pieces for 200 yen) and morning sets at local curry/soba shops (around 410 yen).
- Seasonal Goods: Late February is the time to find cherry blossom (sakura) themed snacks and goods before the actual bloom in late March/early April.
- Service Centers: The Sony Service Center in Akihabara is reliable for camera repairs; John notes a significant improvement in their customer service over the years.
Japanese Language & Culture Notes
- Ameyoko (アメ横): A famous open-air market in Ueno. The name likely derives from "America Yokocho" (America Alley) from the post-WWII era when American goods were sold there.
- Hojicha (焙じ茶): Roasted green tea. John smells the leaves being roasted on the street, noting the acidic sweet smell and reduced caffeine content.
- Cleanliness Culture: John explains that cleanliness in Japan is driven by a sense of personal responsibility and "shame culture." People pick up trash because they feel watched and don't want to be associated with messiness.
- Showa Era Vibe: John laments the loss of the retro Showa era (1926–1989) personality in neighborhoods like Ueno, as chain stores replace local vendors.
- Meishi (名刺): Business or name cards. John mentions buying a wooden meishi case at the artisan market.
Food & Drink Guide
- Egg Baby Cafe: Located under the tracks. Offers egg bacon toast, egg baby sandwiches, and adult french toast. Prices around 1,000 yen. 00:10:05
- Spicy Ramen: A shop with a poster featuring a challenging finger pose. Bowl priced at 850 yen. 00:13:25
- Indo Curry & Soba: Morning set available from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. for 410 yen, including rice, soba, raw egg, and natto. 00:17:23
- Takoyaki: Sold on a corner in Ameyoko. 4 pieces for 200 yen. Described as great value. 00:23:25
- Kit Kat Flavors: Pistachio, melon, strawberry milk, and peaches available at local stores. 00:25:01
- Sakura Snacks: Sakura cookies, Sakura Matcha Poki, and Sakura mochi available seasonally. 00:25:01
- Shimura's Chocolate: Historic shop where you can get a bag of assorted chocolates for 1,000 yen. 00:32:07
People
- John Daub: Host and narrator. Guides the walk, provides cultural context, and interacts with live stream viewers.
- Kanae Daub: John's wife. Mentioned as having received her booster shot and potentially enjoying the egg dishes at Egg Baby Cafe.
- Leo: John's son. Mentioned as napping during the walk time.
- Peter von Gomm: John's friend. Mentioned in passing regarding approval of the Yanaka coffee shop.
- Viewers/Moderators: Rainer, Michael Sasano, Adi, Joy, Omar, and Megan interact via chat, asking questions about travel updates and sharing birthday wishes.
Key Takeaways
- Urban Exploration: Walking between major stations like Akihabara and Ueno reveals hidden artisan zones and cafes often missed by tourists taking the train.
- Gentrification Concerns: The arrival of large chain stores like Don Quixote in historic markets like Ameyoko threatens the unique character of local vendor communities.
- Pandemic Impact: Local businesses are struggling without tourism, leading to property sales to chains. International tourism reopening is uncertain but moving in the right direction.
- Cleanliness Ethics: Japan's cleanliness is maintained through a cultural framework of guilt and shame, where individuals feel personally responsible for public spaces.
- Customer Service Variance: While Sony has improved its service significantly, Apple Japan's customer service is criticized by John as lacking compared to local standards.
Notable Quotes
- 00:01:07 "The valleys of Tokyo are absolutely worth exploring. Sometimes taking a straight line from A to B makes no sense."
- 00:03:57 "If you're in Akihabara, do the walk to Ueno and cut through here... Sometimes just walking from one station to the next instead of grabbing the train is almost the same amount of time."
- 00:13:25 "That looks like it would completely obliterate your taste buds. You might as well just put a torch in your mouth."
- 00:18:53 "To see more chain shops come in here, it kind of disturbs me... I hope Takeya doesn't take a hit as a result."
- 00:30:03 "The intoxicating smell of grilling... It's hojicha. And it has such a strong acidic sweet smell."
- 00:35:15 "Shibuya is Shibuya. Ueno is Ueno. And Okachimachi is Okachimachi. And each neighborhood... had its own personality."
- 00:39:35 "You might as well pick it up. Because you'll be happier picking it up than just leaving it. Because people are going to think that maybe it was you who did it."
- 00:41:29 "If you ever want to get something in business. Don't get angry. Make the other people feel guilty. And they will feel shame. And then you'll get what you want eventually."
Related Topics
- Akihabara Electric Town Exploration
- Ueno Park and Zoo Guides
- Ameyoko Market History
- Tokyo Walking Tours
- Pandemic Travel Restrictions Japan
- Japanese Customer Service Culture
Search Tags
#only-in-japan-go #tokyo #akihabara #ueno #ameyoko #okachimachi #yamanote-line #walking-tour #japan-travel #street-food #hojicha #takoyaki #don-quixote #cleanliness-culture #john-daub #live-stream #pandemic-japan #showa-era #tokyo-cafes
Full Transcript
00:00:00 John Daub: Akihabara, at least that's Akihabara down there. And we are in front of Suehirocho Station. This is on the Ginza Line. In fact, if you walk straight this way, you will follow the Ginza Line all the way to Ueno. But that's not what we're going to be doing. Oh no. So in this walk, I'm going to be taking you from the outskirts of Akihabara. Because we've been down there so many times before. In fact, it's the Gachapon Kaikan right there in that alley.
00:00:26 John Daub: I'm going to take you via the Yamanote Line tracks along there. There are some very interesting new cafes that have opened up over the last couple of years, including an artisanal shop that goes underneath the Yamanote track. We'll cut through Ameyoko Market (アメ横,open-air market). There are some new developments including a brand new Don Quixote that opened up at the entrance of Ameyoko Market. So there are some things happening in the city of Tokyo without international tourism. It will be interesting to see how the city has changed in this direction. So we're going to go through this Sotokanda. And then make a right. And follow those Yamanote tracks.
00:01:07 John Daub: It's been a while since I've done another live stream. Welcome everybody. The last one was at the Snow Monkey Park in Nagano. So I hope everybody is doing well. In this direction, you can see the Yamanote Line tracks straight ahead of you. And if you follow them, it'll take you straight to Ueno. Along the way, we will take some detours. Of course. Because that's the fun part. The valleys of Tokyo are absolutely worth exploring. Sometimes taking a straight line from A to B makes no sense. Especially if you're walking around exploring.
00:02:03 John Daub: I haven't done this walk in about two and a half years. Today's the holiday. So happy birthday to the Emperor. February 23rd. Oh, there's the Yamanote Line right there. So we know we're going in the right direction. They're cleaning the streets there. So for those that have Sony products, I want to show you also where the Sony Service Center is. Because I've been going here for the last couple of years since I switched over from Panasonic to Sony cameras. And they're pretty good. In fact, I don't know if this place is hidden or not. Because there's almost nobody inside. Or maybe Sony is just making better products. But it's right there on the corner. We're going to walk past it. Today is a holiday. So nothing's open.
00:03:06 John Daub: How you doing, Rainer? Nice to see our moderators here as well. Thanks, everybody, for joining me on this adventure. Oh, it's a little bit cold. But it's a sunny day and it's really warm. The track here between Akihabara and Ueno. So many interesting changes have taken place. Like I love exploring the city of Tokyo, walking through here every now and then because it changes all the time. So if you're saying, oh, you've shown us this before. I have. But it's not the same. Each time is different.
00:03:57 John Daub: This is a place that some of you might know. 2K540. And underneath the tracks here is kind of a shopping area of local stores. If you're in Akihabara, do the walk to Ueno and cut through here. Look at this. This is underneath the Yamanote line. It is really nice. Look at that. They've cleaned this up so much over the last 10 years. You can buy lots of leather goods, things that are all handcrafted stuff. I once bought a meishi (name card) case made out of wood here, which is really nice. That's one thing I haven't done enough and walk between stations. You'll find that like the city of Tokyo is so well connected with public transportation. But if you look at it, sometimes just walking from one station to the next instead of grabbing the train is almost the same amount of time. Like from Shibuya to Harajuku, for example. Just walk it. From Akihabara to Ueno. Just walk it.
00:05:30 John Daub: Hey, Michael Sasano. Excited for this live stream to see what's changed. Yanaka coffee shop. And I find that if Peter von Gomm approves that it must be a good place. They make some good coffee in here. A good alternative to Starbucks. And of course, it's attached to the artisans. Oh, they make hats in there. I've also noticed that a lot of the restaurants here have a line. So they're quite popular locally. It's just interesting because I don't think a lot of guidebooks have added in this area. Because a lot of the places are just new. And it is a holiday. So there's more people out and about. Looks like Thai cuisine, maybe? Looks like a dessert cafe. Let's keep walking. There is a very trendy cafe just about 100 meters up the street from here. And if you squint. You can see Ameyoko Market. The bright lights at the end of the street there.
00:07:07 John Daub: You're going to be hearing the Yamanote Line cruising above us as we do this walk as well. There's another entrance to the artisans shopping area underneath the tracks. And that's it for the shopping area. It's not very big, but it's just very well done. And from Akihabara Station, I think it would take about 10 minutes to walk. About 3 to 4 from Suehirocho Station. Alright, from here, you're still in the fringe of Ueno. So we've left Akihabara. And from this Lawson's here on the right side, things start to get a little interesting.
00:08:17 John Daub: I see Rainer also chimed in here doing fine. I'm doing great. Got your Tadamigawa Bridge postcard. I'm glad you brought that up Rainer. Because I have one here for Yuri in California. This is going out to you buddy. As soon as I find a post box, I'll put this in there. Here's the stamp I put on there for you. It's kind of fun. So there are a bunch of these really local craft beer meat restaurant places. This one says Tokyo's Butchers. Like the kind of shops you'd find maybe in every other big city. This one is called Tokyo Butchers. I wonder how much butchering they actually do in there. Smells great. Meat, a little bit of garlic. And it looks like they might even be brewing beer in there. Oh, so there's another craft brewer that has opened up here. This is so interesting. The Egg Baby Cafe makes beer? Or is that part of the Tokyo Butcher? But you can see this area underneath the Yamanote line has been so beautifully redone. It's so clean. The railings look like pipes. You could even sit outside and enjoy a beer. I'm guessing.
00:10:05 John Daub: This cafe didn't exist six months ago. At least I don't think it did because I don't remember it in operation. Look at the big windows. I love it. They're making coffee here. And they have takeaway. Looks like they got egg sandwiches and beer. I can't disagree with that combination. But I can't disagree with this line. Check it out. There's a lot of people here waiting for lunch. Check it out. Look at this menu. Egg bacon toast with french fries. And then here's the egg baby sandwich with french fries. Ten bucks for that. Well, a little bit less with the exchange rates the way they are. Raspa dura carbonara and egg farmer vegetable power salad. I could live with that. The desserts look good. There's a moss tiramisu. And then there's an adult french toast. What makes it adult? I don't know. But that word is right there. Egg baby pudding. So this place is called Egg Baby Cafe. Look at the big windows. I got to totally come here not on a weekend or a holiday. Come on a weekday when there's like nobody around. Just go in there and sit. Enjoy a craft beer. I'm sure Kanae Daub would really love to have some of the egg dishes in there. Maybe bring Leo when he's taking a nap. Right next door to it. And look, they got a second floor here. Is a halal market. And that's kind of neat to know because we do have a lot of viewers from the Arab world watching. You can get some halal products right here.
00:12:17 John Daub: All right, let's keep walking. It's gotten interesting. Excuse me, sir. This is a highly trafficked road. It might be prudent for you and your friend to depart. Saving lives. Loads of interesting restaurants and bars. It's kind of an eclectic mix of Asian dining next to eggs. Next to halal market. Next to another old looking izakaya. Looks like it's been here a while. Next to a hat shop. Make sure you stay out of the road. I mean, these are the streets. These people really the pigeons know better than these guys. Very polite. Tap punk. This is New York. You would have laid it on strong.
00:13:25 John Daub: Look at that spicy looking ramen. What? It's $8.50. 850 yen for that bowl. That looks like it would completely obliterate your taste buds. You might as well just put a torch in your mouth. That guy's like sitting there challenging me. What? It's like, dude, this finger could change your life. It's got a pretty long finger. Serious mug. So if you're walking from Akihabara to Ueno, you can try this spicy ramen. Challenge yourself. See if that guy's finger is in the ramen. I don't know. I like that pose. On we go.
00:14:30 John Daub: Any update on travel to Japan? I just reading some of the comments from Adi here. Nothing solid. I know that things are okay. We're opening up there. It's moving in the right direction, but it's not quite there. The thing is that it's moving in the right direction. That's the most important thing there. They're allowing more international students and workers with visas to enter into Japan from 3500 to 5000 starting in March 1st. But that's a precursor. That's a good start to tourism which gosh, I don't know when but I reckon if Australia can open up to tourism. Japan is not going to be the same. It's not going to be that far behind because of all the money that might be associated to it. But that's all you know I've been telling you about this since it started this pandemic in January 2020 giving updates on travel to Japan. The decisions are made based on the voters and the people the citizens here that are mostly over the age of 50. The average age of Japan is 46 or 47 years old, the oldest in the world. And they're the ones that will ultimately make the decision. And the vast majority of them, they don't care about tourism or you coming here. They just are fearful of catching anything and they're old and they don't want outsiders to bring stuff in even though it makes no sense scientifically because there's Japanese traveling abroad and bringing this in. So what are you going to do? Just got to wait it out.
00:16:03 John Daub: There's Ameyoko market. We're going to go through there but not directly. Kind of side directly because that's a lot more fun. Okachimachi station. So if you do get off you can pass Akihabara and go straight here and get off at this exit, which is a lot better. This is the south entrance or exit. I think it's a little bit better to get off here than in front of Ameyoko, which is a lot more crowded. But it'll take you to this square where the pandas and the pigeons live in unity. I've met you guys before. In fact, didn't we do a stream here two Christmases ago? I think so. Interesting. Look at that. Beautiful looking pigeon. You have your time in the limelight, sir. Ma'am. Sorry. And on we go. Yeah, that's right. We featured this KFC. Got kicked away from another KFC in Akihabara because there was this gangster guy there saying that the maids that were trying to get people to go in there didn't like me live streaming there. So I had to move here. That was two Christmases ago. Crazy.
00:17:23 John Daub: Oh, Okachimachi Station. This is probably also easy access to get to Ueno Zoo from here to just cut through the market. So the pandas in this area are also quite famous. I see second breakfast is here. Thank you guys. Also, they are traveling. I wonder if they're still in Mexico or if they're somewhere else. Maybe they've returned back to India. But they have a very interesting channel to where they're showing different areas of the world. I love it because we can't travel at all and they're doing it for us. Thank you. Thank you guys. So this is Indo curry. Really? This is interesting. It's like a Japanified Indian curry. They write in here with tempura. What? I guess they got a bunch of stuff here. Yeah, this is different kinds of curry dishes with soba. That's an unusual mix there. That's a morning set right here. From 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. you can get this for $4. 410 yen. That is ridiculously cheap. Bowl of rice and some soba. Nice. Raw egg and there's some natto in there. That is a really good combination for four bucks. It smells like curry.
00:18:53 John Daub: All right, here we go. We are right on the side of the new Uniqlo building that has opened up. Now we're in an area where a lot of you probably recognize. Let me cross over here to the other side. The trains are cruising above us. You see a father and son cruising through here. Leo takes a nap around this time. But when things get a little bit better, we'll be making excursions around just like they are. So here's a side of Okachimachi Market. And one of the amazing things I discovered here at Ameyoko. As I kind of wrap, I'm just going to swing around this intersection before we cross into Ameyoko Market. They opened up a Don Quixote right there. I have very mixed feelings about that because I know that Ameyoko is a place. It's a market of local vendors. Going back historically to post World War II. And to see more chain shops come in here, it kind of disturbs me. And I know a lot of you love it. I love Don Quixote. There's like four or five of them in the area. I don't know if they really needed to put anything here. But with property prices so cheap now and local businesses just struggling, they're kind of smart. The group is buying a lot of property.
00:20:38 John Daub: By sitting around here, you have the Uniqlo. The Uniqlo Market here. So I'm going to take you in through here when the light changes and then show you this. And then make a quick right, take you down an alley. Because I've been, gosh, I've been down the Ameyoko like a dozen times. The power station is here. Hello from London. If you want to, you could chime in and say where you're watching from. All four corners of the globe. David Jay's watching from Sydney. This is sort of a little bit late for the East Coast and the U.S. You can see because of the state of the pandemic we're in. And I'm going to talk not quite as loud right now. My mouth is closer to the screen. Because of the state of the pandemic, everybody is wearing masks here despite it being outside. And this is one reason why. I guess Japan has been able to clamp this down. But I do try to stay away from crowded areas. So I'm not going to. I'm going to limit my exposure by taking a left pretty quickly here.
00:21:54 John Daub: So if you were wondering on the weekends and holidays, Ameyoko is doing okay. Imagine what it's going to be like when tourism returns. When tourists were here two years ago, you couldn't even move. I'm moving to the side of the street here. And now I'm panning over. Check this out here. This is what I'm talking about. This is insanity. And I am not a chain store person. So I'm not really happy, positive about this. But you know, what are you going to do? I just remember that there was an old business that was here for a long time. But it didn't really sell much of anything. And they sold out the Don Quixote. They just waited and waited until the property prices, I guess, got better. And they sold out. And now this Don Quixote looks like it's got four or five floors in there. I'm not sure. I think it's going to be more popular with foreign tourists than locals. Because from next to here, just if you go to the left here is Takeya, which is the cheapest department store in Japan. So I don't know if this is going to become a bidding war or what. But Takeya is, it's got a purple exterior. That's one of my favorite stores in Tokyo. And it's kind of sad to see chains coming in here. I hope Takeya doesn't take a hit as a result.
00:23:25 John Daub: A lot of the stuff that these stores do sell changed on the front here. Most of them are masks and alcohol. And still catering to the pandemic crowd. Those are not brassieres. Those are masks. It's like somebody has taken apart a bra. All right, let's find a vending machine. Gosh, the line for this takoyaki place is always mega long. This might be the cheapest and the best value takoyaki in Japan. Right here on the corner. They've been doing it here for decades. You get a four for 200 yen. That is so cheap. And you can load it up with sauce and whatnot. This place used to be a Korean cheese dog, a stretchy cheese place. It turned into a different kind of a Korean place. And now that went out of business too. At least it's closed right now. I guess everybody was banking that the pandemic would turn around and tourism would return. But that was not the case.
00:25:01 John Daub: Here's one of my Kit Kat connections here. You can see the flavors that are popular here. Pistachio and melon just came out. There's some strawberry milk and peaches here as well. The pistachio is almost $4 though, so it's not quite worth it. All right, let's go to the side streets. They are selling some cherry blossom stuff. So, tis the season the blossoms will be blooming in less than a month, which is crazy to think about it. Spring is here. Oh, these would be great for our daimyo. Will it fit in the box? Sakura cookies. Then they have the Sakura Matcha Poki, which are nice. Sakura mochi. I used to get my running shoes from Sports Zuyin. They don't have a Z, Z-Yin. I had a point card here, but now you can get them online a lot cheaper. This is my connection 10 years ago. I would always get a pair of running shoes every six months because I would wear them out running 100K a day. I'm not sure if I would wear them out in a week. They've torn down this building here, and I think that something interesting is going to pop up as a result. There's a lot of construction in this area. When you do come back to this area, it's going to be a lot newer than it traditionally was.
00:27:19 John Daub: Hey, is that Brandania? Brandania, I just saw the certificates for the Kickstarter fireworks project for the Shakadama, and they look incredible. They're coming in these beautiful tubes, and I just got mine, and they're being sent out their rewards very shortly. We were in the red because we had budgeted for a small packet, and they changed it. Now there's no mail available to some countries. I think we're $2,000 in the hole now from shipping charges, which is part of it. You never know the direction business will go. It's a close call. It's a colorful place, I have to say. This street is a lot wider than Ameyoko Market, which is right down there, and the streets do converge in about, I don't know, 50, 60 meters from here. Let's just keep going and see if I can grab a drink at a vending machine here. Getting a little thirsty.
00:28:33 John Daub: So what is your guess? If you're watching in the live stream and you're participating in the chat, you're watching for the first time, I always encourage people to leave me a message. When do you think tourism to Japan is going to start? What is your crystal ball? Stay? What do you think? Is anybody planning a trip and just buying the ticket anyways? Because I got a good feeling that summer is going to be okay. I got good feelings all the time, though. So it's not. Joy says 2023, fall 2022, third quarter, October, November, July, autumn. We really don't know right now. Anything is possible. Just looking to see if there's anything interesting in here. No. Some apartments available. Would you live there? That looks pretty clean. 70, 72,000 yen or 700 bucks to live in room 101, which is probably the ground floor. It's kind of small.
00:30:03 John Daub: There goes the Yamanote line up above. Hey, did anybody see the video I just posted on the main channel? How they keep Ueno Station clean? Thanks so much. We crossed 100,000 views in four days, which is really good for a new channel. We're really close to Ueno Station right now. So you always get some interesting gifts here on the corner. And here we go. This is where Ameyoko converges with the side street here. And it has really changed a lot. The signs are brand new. If you pan up here, you can see the signs of change. And apparently this platform is open and you can get photos up here and check out the sign. Check it out. Wow. The intoxicating smell of grilling. Do you smell this here? This smoke coming out here is roasting green tea leaves. It's hojicha (roasted green tea). And it has such a strong acidic sweet smell. Oh, man. I love it. Roasting hojicha. It takes some of the caffeine out of it as well.
00:32:07 John Daub: Now the life of outside eating is still going on here in Ueno. And I bet you tonight. A lot of these restaurants are going to be crowded. The economy is starting to come back a little bit. The booster shots have been rolling out really strongly over the last week. Kanae just got hers today. I got mine a couple of weeks ago. It was based on when you got your second shot, which is weird. It's kind of a gaffe by the prime minister. I think he said eight months after the second shot, they stayed. They stuck to that. And then he changed it. And then it threw all the local ward offices into chaos. But they worked it out as they always do. This is one of my favorite shops here. Historically, this is Shimura's chocolate shop. You give them 1000 yen and he will fill a bag of goodies for you. And I'll be making an episode about this shop in the history of Ameyoko in the next few months because this place is changing so much. I think it's about time to do a really deep historical episode of Ameyoko market. Don't you think? Shout out to the Patreon supporters. I really appreciate you guys helping me. I just made a snow monkey video based on the support and going to be doing a lot more traveling for the main channel as well as this.
00:33:46 John Daub: By the way, I just have this handy for the people watching. These are on sale now. I have the store open. Only in Japan store is open. Store.onlyinjapan.tv. And you can purchase a copy of the Only in Japan Blu-ray video. Check it out. It opens up. The box that opens up and you can see every single person that picked me up and some of the hitchhiking signs from this 2017 adventure. All these kind faces. I love to make this and I take a look at it every now and then just to remember why I stay here in Japan. All these very friendly people picked me up and took me from one place to another. And there's a second audio track where Kanae also does some narration when I met her in Hakodate. But the entire country on this one disc and it's available now on the Only in Japan store. Which is cool. I think we sent out about 40 or 50 of them already. Here's a timeline of all the places I went to. I do carry it with me everywhere because I'm trying to sell them. I haven't had a way to sell them for like three, two, three years. So I'm sitting on a couple of hundred of them. So I do carry it everywhere. Of course I do.
00:35:15 John Daub: This sign is somewhat controversial. As we make our way to the entrance of Ueno. This Ameyoko sign is brand new and they took out the retro looking sign and switched it up for that. And it's created a little bit of a buzz. A lot of people aren't happy with it. What do you think? Is this sign controversial? Do you prefer the old retro style sign? I do. I'm somebody who doesn't want to see it change. I want to see Ueno stay kind of retro and have some of that old charm. The new building should be constructed like the old buildings. But that's the way I think. Shibuya is Shibuya. Ueno is Ueno. And Okachimachi is Okachimachi. And each neighborhood going all the way back to the Showa era. Maybe even before that. It had its own personality. Different kinds of people. People from Tohoku would settle around Ueno because the train lines would come into Ueno Station here. So you had the cultures from up there settling down here. And you had that vibe. And now that vibe has kind of gone away a little bit. As everything just gets a little bit watered down by chains and chain shops. And that desire to make everything nice and new. And I just hope that it's more small businesses and people can keep what they have going. And if the family wants to continue, the grandchildren should have that opportunity to continue what the family has started. But more and more younger people are not wanting to take over for their fathers and grandfathers. The family business. They want to do something else. YouTube. Run the business and do a YouTube channel at the same time. That's what I would do maybe.
00:37:33 John Daub: So this is Ueno Station. There's the Metro Station which I didn't feature on the main channel episode. I featured JR Ueno Station because the team that cleans it is inside there. And I know them all. Well, a lot of them. And when I go in there I like to say hi if I see them. It's nice to see a friendly face. There's the staff of JR East which do a great job of cleaning the station. And watch the video. And I think when you do you have a new respect for the people who keep our cities running smoothly and safely. What they do. They've been doing it now for over 50 years I believe. So think I can take you a little bit inside of here. I wanted to put in some of the history of what they do. I wanted to put in some of the history of Ueno Station. But I just couldn't get permission. Somebody asked me about the Hard Rock Cafe. It's still open right here. So don't worry. They're still around. I just couldn't get the permission to use the historical footage or videos of Ueno Station. Because just technical stuff. It wasn't a sponsored job. I didn't get paid to make it. But I did get access. And I wanted to respect the wishes. But it just would have been... It's just a shame that I couldn't feature the history of Ueno Station. Because it wasn't that clean 30-40 years ago actually. Japan has changed. Culturally this was a massively dirty place. It stunk in the summers. The toilets were dirty. Smoking was a huge problem. People would bring a lot of paper, trash, tickets, newspapers. It was just really a messy, dirty place. And the last 30-40 years it has changed dramatically.
00:39:35 John Daub: In fact when I moved here in 1998 Japan was still really clean. But it's so much cleaner now than it was back then. Maybe it's more security. I don't know why. But this place gets cleaner and cleaner. And the society does a better job. Because they teach this in the schools. To keep clean. And you are responsible for what's around you. A personal responsibility to make sure that you don't leave a place messier than you found it. One reason why people in Japan are very honest. I've asked hundreds of Japanese people this. Is because they always feel like they've been watched. And if they took something that they found. They always feel like somebody had seen them take it. So they do the right thing. Because it makes them feel better than to hold on to it. Because there's this amazing amount of guilt. To hold on to a possession that's not yours. Same with cleaning things. You might walk past a piece of trash. But if you don't pick it up. Someone might see you and think that you had done it. So you might as well pick it up. Because you'll be happier picking it up than just leaving it. Because people are going to think that maybe it was you who did it. That's one explanation. Shame culture, right Saya? And as I've said many times before. Guilt and shame are pretty powerful in Japan. If you ever want to get something in business. Don't get angry. Make the other people feel guilty. And they will feel shame. And then you'll get what you want eventually.
00:41:29 John Daub: That hasn't worked with Apple Japan though. Which is probably more of an American company than a Japanese company. They just don't want to help at all. Worst customer service. Any tech firm. Apple Japan. Still waiting on a phone I haven't received for over four months. I got a good story for you. It's still developing. I'm still working with the Tokyo Police Department. It was there a couple of weeks ago. It's a developing story. I tried to call because they changed the terms of service. From the time I worked. Listen to this. On December 28th. Customer service representative after sales called me and read me the terms of service. Which is a loser. Once you start to do that, you've lost the customer. Why would you read legal terms? And it says we allowed to put it in the lockers. But the terms of service when I ordered it were different than the terms of service that she read me. Because I printed that out too. So I thought that was really interesting. It just stinks. It reeks the situation. So I have a good story for you. Once we work out things. It's not finished. I'm still going to buy Apple products. I still think they make some good stuff. Apple Japan's customer service. Not really up to standard. For what you would consider in Japan. Even Sony has gotten really good. And we went past their customer service center. Sony was one of the worst. And now they're one of the best. They're really good at taking customer service requests. And replacing products. And honoring the warranty, etc. But come on, Apple. I bought the phone. At least give me the serial number. So I could get the AppleCare. And report it stolen. And get a new phone. They won't even do that.
00:43:25 John Daub: Omar writes in here. It's not just Japan, John. Alright, thanks Omar. There you go, everybody. Sorry to complain. I want to put a positive spin. But it's hard to. Because I'm still. It should be the iPhone 13 Pro bringing you this live stream. Not a 12 Pro that I've been using for a while now. Not to worry. Order on Amazon. It's good advice. I should have done that. Never order from Apple directly. On their online store. It's a disaster. And they'll tell you the terms of services. So you better read the fine print. With them. Because if you don't get it. You're probably not going to get it. Unless Federal Express or the carrier does it. And Japan Post said no.
00:44:10 John Daub: Alright, everybody. It's been fun. Yeah, Michael. By the time this is settled. The 14 Pro will be here. And they're going to send me a 13 Pro. The devaluation is awful. Alright. More serious note. Starbucks Japan does have really good products. Really good cherry blossom drinks right now. Maybe something I feature in the future. But Megan. 2-22-22. February 22, 2022. Hey, everybody. Have a great day. Have a great night. Thanks for watching this live stream. I'm heading back home. Got a new episode dropping tomorrow. Got a new episode dropping tomorrow on the main channel. So I'm focused back onto the edited videos. Sorry. There hasn't been a lot of live streams on this channel. But we're going to get the new main channel purring really well over this year. And I just thank you all so much for the support. And if you have any questions, leave in the comments below. And I'll see you tomorrow. Because I've got to be doing live streams now to pick off where I left off from the monkey park. Which is a week ago. I can't believe it took a week to get a live stream done. What? And finally, happy birthday to the emperor. Today's a holiday, everybody. Take care. Have a good night.