Sapporo Night Walk through Susukino
Sapporo Night Walk through Susukino
Overview
John Daub and his friend Peter von Gomm take a break from their Hokkaido motorcycle adventure to explore the nightlife of Sapporo. Despite heavy rain and chilly summer weather, they venture into Susukino, the city's famous entertainment district. The video captures the atmospheric neon lights, the unique underground walkways, and the vibrant energy of the area even during a downpour.
The pair stop at a local Seicomart convenience store to grab craft beers before heading toward the iconic Sapporo Ramen Yokocho (Ramen Alley). Along the way, they share updates for their Kickstarter backers, discuss the logistics of filming their documentary, and reminisce about 90s pop culture. The walk offers a candid look at travel realities—dealing with weather, managing massive amounts of footage, and finding joy in simple moments like a rainy beer toast.
This episode serves as a bridge between the rural riding legs of their trip, highlighting the contrast between Hokkaido's natural landscapes and its urban centers. John provides context on the history of Susukino and the changes in Ramen Alley over the years, while also engaging with their online community through live updates and backer shout-outs.
Highlights
- 00:01 John introduces the location as Susukino, Sapporo's great entertainment district.
- 00:26 They discuss the chilly rainy weather (22°C feeling like 15°C) and Peter buying beer at Seicomart.
- 01:54 John notes Sapporo's unique underground walkway system.
- 02:30 Peter reveals he bought a tiny "micro" beer, leading to playful banter.
- 03:27 They toast (kanpai) in front of the massive Nikka Whiskey sign.
- 06:40 A streetcar passes by; they discuss its electric sound vs. diesel.
- 09:27 John reveals they have 1.3 terabytes of footage so far for the documentary.
- 10:19 Nostalgic moment discussing MC Hammer and 90s music videos.
- 16:01 Arrival at Sapporo Ramen Yokocho; they note the sign has changed.
- 18:05 Discussion of butter corn ramen and Kickstarter backer updates.
- 26:51 Wrap up with takoyaki and plans for the next day's ride to the easternmost point of Hokkaido.
Timeline / Chapters
- 00:00 - Intro in Susukino rain
- 02:00 - Beer run at Seicomart
- 03:30 - Kanpai at Nikka Whiskey sign
- 06:30 - Streetcar sighting and weather talk
- 09:00 - Documentary footage logistics
- 10:00 - 90s Music nostalgia (MC Hammer)
- 13:30 - Walking toward Ramen Alley
- 16:00 - Inside Sapporo Ramen Yokocho
- 19:00 - Kickstarter backer shout-outs
- 22:00 - Neon signs and nightlife observations
- 26:00 - Takoyaki and closing remarks
Japan Travel Tips
- Susukino at Night: Even in rain, the neon lights of Susukino are worth seeing. It's the largest entertainment district in northern Japan.
- Ramen Yokocho: The Sapporo Ramen Yokocho is a must-visit, but note that shop signs and layouts can change over time. Look for miso ramen or butter corn ramen specific to Hokkaido.
- Weather Prep: Summer in Hokkaido can be chilly (22°C can feel like 15°C with rain/wind). Bring a jacket even in August.
- Convenience Stores: Seicomart is a Hokkaido-based convenience store chain distinct from 7-Eleven or Lawson, often featuring local products and craft beers.
- Underground Walkways: Sapporo has extensive underground pedestrian tunnels (Chi-Ka-Ho) useful during bad weather.
- Filming/Photography: Be mindful of privacy in entertainment districts; some establishments may not welcome cameras.
Japanese Language & Culture Notes
- Kanpai (乾杯): The Japanese toast equivalent to "Cheers." John and Peter use this to celebrate the end of a motorcycle leg.
- Ramen Yokocho (ラーメン横丁): Literally "Ramen Alley." Narrow streets filled with small ramen shops. Sapporo's version is famous for miso-based broths.
- Susukino (すすきの): Historically a red-light district, now a mainstream entertainment hub known for nightlife, dining, and the Snow Festival.
- Chashu (チャーシュー): Braised or roasted pork often used as a ramen topping. John spots a shop offering "grilled chashu steaks."
- Ganso (元祖): Means "original" or "origin." John notes the sign says "Ganso" (misheard initially as Gonzo) indicating the historic origin of the alley.
Food & Drink Guide
- Craft Beer: Purchased at Seicomart. Peter buys a small "micro" size. John prefers a larger size. 02:30
- Katsudon (カツ丼): Pork cutlet rice bowl. They ate this earlier in the day; Peter was too full for ramen later. 01:17
- Butter Corn Ramen: A Hokkaido specialty featuring sweet corn and a pat of butter melting into the miso broth. Mentioned as a target for future filming. 18:05
- Takoyaki (たこ焼き): Octopus balls. Seen at the end of the walk, noted as having "a lot of oil." 26:51
People
- John Daub: Host and creator. Leading the motorcycle trip, managing filming logistics, and engaging with Kickstarter backers.
- Peter von Gomm: John's friend and fellow American living in Japan. Companion on the motorcycle trip, provides comic relief and conversation.
- Matsumi: Mentioned as a previous companion during the Sapporo Snow Festival 2020.
- Kelvin Poe: Greeted by John inside the convenience store (likely a staff member or acquaintance).
- Kickstarter Backers: Mohammed, Super Fjord Manon, Bob. Mentioned by name during shout-outs.
Key Takeaways
- Documentary Scale: The trip is generating massive amounts of data (estimated 3 terabytes total), requiring significant post-production work.
- Weather Reality: Hokkaido summer weather is unpredictable; rain and cold can impact travel plans and gear.
- Community Support: The Kickstarter campaign is nearing a goal (500 backers), driving the ability to film specific segments like Lake Akan.
- Urban vs. Rural: Sapporo offers a stark contrast to the rural riding areas, providing nightlife and infrastructure not found elsewhere on the island.
Notable Quotes
- 00:01 "So here we are in Sapporo. This is Susukino, the great entertainment district of the area."
- 00:26 "It's actually cold, chilly, 22 degrees with rain. So that kind of feels like 15 maybe."
- 03:03 "I've heard of micro brews and then there are micro brews. This is six ounces."
- 09:27 "We have 1.3 terabytes of footage so far. We're probably going to end with about 3 terabytes of footage."
- 13:31 "Sometimes sketchy people... do sketchy people know that they're sketchy?"
- 20:27 "Life is a highway. I want to die. On the road."
Related Topics
- Hokkaido Motorcycle Adventure
- Sapporo Snow Festival
- Japanese Convenience Store Culture
- Ramen Culture in Japan
- Crowdfunding Documentary Filmmaking
Search Tags
#only-in-japan-go #tokyo #travel #sapporo #susukino #hokkaido #ramen #nightlife #rain #motorcycle #kickstarter #john-daub #peter-von-gomm #japan-travel #foodie #beer #takoyaki #summer-in-japan
Full Transcript
00:01 John Daub: So here we are in Sapporo. This is Susukino, the great entertainment district of the area. It's got such an amazing nightlife, this city. When you're doing a cross-country Hokkaido trip—which is the island we're on—it's pretty cool to stop here because we've been in rural areas where there's no nightlife at all. Tonight we're going to have something of a nightlife, which is basically walking around the city. And we're taking you with us.
00:26 John Daub: And it should be a lot of fun because it's not often that you walk around in the rain. I mean, I would avoid a night like this. And it's actually cold, chilly, 22 degrees with rain. So that kind of feels like 15 maybe. But Peter has gone in there to get a beer. And we will have something to say kanpai to the end of the motorcycle leg. We still have riding tomorrow and I'll probably do a live stream tomorrow on the motorcycle leg. Not to worry, there's still a little bit more coming. But we're going to be doing on the way back an update for our Kickstarter backers. Peter's in there, that's Seicomart. How you doing, Kelvin Poe? We're going to do a Kickstarter update while we walk back and then upload that to the Kickstarter. So we've been doing every night an update on how the trip is going.
01:17 John Daub: Actually, you're going to probably hear a lot of it right here. We wanted to get a bowl of ramen, but then around 4 o'clock, Peter got hungry around 3:30. So I bought him a katsudon. And I'm going to be eating a katsudon. And it was pretty amazing. And he said, oh, I'll be hungry for ramen at 7:30. And he's not hungry. He can't eat anymore. But we might take you to Ramen Alley. So you get a chance to see that. And then we're going to walk back home and then have a nice sleep because we get a long day tomorrow and it is raining pretty hard.
01:54 John Daub: Sapporo is one of my favorite cities in Japan. Cities in Japan all kind of feel and look like Japan. But Sapporo is a little bit unique. Susukino especially. One of the unique things about Sapporo is that underground you can walk.
02:00 Peter von Gomm: Oh, you just like magically appeared. Undercover somewhere.
02:18 John Daub: Well, we could go to the Ramen Alley and then we're pretty much there. Let's get the kanpai at the sign and then we'll dive in someplace. What did you get?
02:30 Peter von Gomm: A beer.
02:31 John Daub: Dude, that's too small. They have a size this big?
02:34 Peter von Gomm: You said you want a small one.
02:36 John Daub: Well, I didn't say that small. I'll be done before. Oh, is this revenge for yesterday? This one's fine. Oh, you got a good beer. A craft beer.
02:49 John Daub: Over here at the sign. Don't be a wuss. It's just a little rain. You have my broken umbrella.
02:56 Peter von Gomm: Sure. No, no, no, no, no, no, no. I'm not that. If I'm going to get a micro beer.
03:03 John Daub: You're not even going to use it. I've heard of micro brews and then there are micro brews. This is six ounces.
03:10 Peter von Gomm: Really?
03:12 John Daub: There's a wicked pallet. Put it under the mic and put the mic off. Those had problems too. I think it's just out of whack and all. We set it with the app tonight. See if I can salvage it.
03:27 John Daub: All right. There's the Nikka Whiskey sign.
03:30 Peter von Gomm: Great sign.
03:31 John Daub: It is pretty cool. It's massive. It's a symbol of Sapporo. Oh, there's that ramen. Isn't that Yama? Okayaya was the ramen place we went to.
03:52 John Daub: Whoa this is like the um we can drink it right here Peter yeah completely out of the element right here yeah so it's a little windy here so let's do a kanpai right here on camera with you guys here I want to say thank you everybody for the support just watching the live streams and being here there's a lot of support let's open up our beer I can't believe you sure you can handle that put your side by side just so you can handle that too much all right kanpai.
04:35 Peter von Gomm: I can't think of a mask sculpt do it with the small ones.
05:28 John Daub: Oh you bought another one I thought you were joking really oh my god that's after a proper kanpai oh so wait you didn't even drink you let me do that by myself oh this is the old head of yours your great support backing us on this mad adventure training even harder oh crap.
06:16 John Daub: Let's go here's all bitter to the uh cover here in the let's go to the um okay let's go to the cover I don't care where we go now I can't even see the screen that umbrella.
06:40 Peter von Gomm: It's a little bit better oh here's the streetcar for active driver too yeah do you see that it's not very often what the sound is it smells like uh it doesn't look like it's like a diesel it's an electric all right now it doesn't smell like diesel it smells like an electric burning electric that's cool sounds like a UFO writes in mega nerd neared that sounds like something you have to pop well that UFO Bob would say that.
07:21 John Daub: All right we also need to get to the rain because if the water gets into the mic then it gets all funky yeah it's a lot of fun to get to the rain last time I was here was with Matsumi during the Sapporo Snow Festival 2020 right when corona hit it's pretty weird if Matsumi's watching this she'll still remember whereas it's a lot colder than and snowing.
07:53 Peter von Gomm: I don't question for those who are watching so far on this trip what has been your favorite place that John and I have visited he's on a live stream please let us know it's a valid question I don't know what's been your favorite place uh we've ridden for you guys that you haven't seen maybe because of the documentary.
08:11 John Daub: We can't show everything because we're actually filming. Really filming.
08:17 Peter von Gomm: You asked a new question?
08:18 John Daub: Yeah, what's been your favorite so far?
08:20 Peter von Gomm: Um, that question's been quite a few places. I really liked Noboribetsu. That's a really cool place.
08:31 John Daub: Come on over here, away from the people. Yeah, this is a super good place.
08:37 Peter von Gomm: I've enjoyed every place we've been. Also, yesterday, coming from up around the peninsula. Wow. It's really cool. It would have been nicer if it was blue skies, but... Nice convention roads we rode on.
08:58 John Daub: Ah! Yesterday's ride was so nice. Coming from Niseko down S-curves, going into... Iwanae. Iwanae. Why are we doing that? Niseko. We're coming down to Iwanae from Niseko, and that was so beautiful. I just wish we had a little bit of wispy clouds and a little blue skies, but you can see the weather here is far from ideal.
09:27 John Daub: We'll take you around a little bit really quickly. We can go to the Sapporo Ramen Alley, and then we're going to have to call it a night. Peter and I have a long day tomorrow. And we are backing up all the footage, which has been a lot of work. We have 1.3 terabytes of footage so far. We're probably going to end with about 3 terabytes of footage. So it's a pretty crazy amount of data to edit down. My whole hitchhiking trip had 2.8, so we're going to pass that. And I had 45 days of footage. Oh, man. So I think it's the 8K camera that's really in play.
10:05 Peter von Gomm: Yeah. And the 360 camera is also quite large file. Right, right. And we've got to work that out for it.
10:11 John Daub: It's going to be a blast. That's going to be pretty good.
10:14 Peter von Gomm: Are you going to dance for us? The rain dance? You're going to do your MC Hammer?
10:19 John Daub: That's, oh, yeah. Ho, ho, ho, ho, ho, ho, ho.
10:23 Peter von Gomm: That's a different artist.
10:24 John Daub: Oh. Who is that?
10:27 Peter von Gomm: That was Boys Next Door.
10:28 John Daub: Boys Next Door. Yeah. That was them. The ride stuff. I don't remember. Boys Next Door. Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh. Look at the hammer. Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh. Hammer time. Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh. Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh. That's a different song, dude.
10:55 Peter von Gomm: Again? I got to mix it up again?
10:57 John Daub: I can't touch this. Oh, can't touch this. Can't touch this. Can't touch this. Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh. Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh. Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh. Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh. You do your little dance move.
11:13 Peter von Gomm: That day? I can't remember what I was doing. I think I cannot compete with your shuffle. Your MC shuffle. I know MC Hammer. I lived him through high school. We have our minivans. Everybody had minivans back in the 90s. Did you wear those harem pants too?
11:37 John Daub: The harem pants? I didn't, but a lot of kids did back then. One kid even taking steroids. If you went to high school in the late 80s and early 90s, you could tell the kids were taking steroids. They were just massive and they had pimples all over the place. They had rage issues. You would avoid them in the hallway. You would avoid them in the hallway. You were punching out the teachers. Those pants were famous with the roid boys because their legs were too big for everything else.
12:20 Peter von Gomm: That's true. The kids that were popular, this is true... From the early 1990s, the kids that were popular would over the summer take steroids. They would come back like different people. And sometimes girls would think that they transferred in or something from another state I don't know who's that guy but then the word rage would come through and yeah 90s is a fun time MC Hammer CNC Music Factory yeah some really good there's one kid he took steroids openly admitted it and he never worked out yeah you get fights all the time so you know the rage but you get a lot of fights I don't I'm actually afraid that he might be watching so I better office 90s to a fun time.
13:31 John Daub: All right let's let's say just walk around a little bit Peter and then we'll head back okay where's the Ramen Alley it's about 200 meters this way it's a blue light I call them blue because they say our shingle always blue gosh this weather sucks how do you run with a beer not spill it and on a wasted these is where we met Matsumi get down this street Wow the backside of Susukino I look at that I saw you super dry how dare they do this in Sapporo live images from Hokkaido.
14:37 John Daub: Alright let's go around here Peter go ahead start walking I'll come Sapporo I'm gonna have a look at uh go ahead start walking I'll come with you. Sapporo Gonzo Ramen Yokocho (Ramen Alley) is this way and then we're gonna go ahead home so this is a you know proper this area entertainment district sometimes sketchy people they mean well do sketchy people know that they're sketchy only if you tell them okay so they don't Wow how did they become sketchy excuse me sir did you realize yeah yeah here see these sir did you realize that you're a sketchy individual pop whoa the boys Club whoa you get soft skin oh there it is let's just walk through it and we'll come back to the other side and start walking home because I'm drenched.
16:01 John Daub: This is the back end of the Susukino Ramen Yokocho where do we put these in we're done we'll find a ramen alleys up this way it's right here you're underneath the sign look at it they've changed the sign! Oh it's like so generic here they changed the sign it's so generic now it's not the same this is the Sapporo Ramen Yokocho Gonzo Sapporo Ramen Yokocho this one here means the original or the origin original yeah and I don't know some of them might be open some of them might not be but we'll just walk through there I the signal might might not be so strong you going in there?
17:28 Peter von Gomm: Wait what? We're just gonna walk through just getting his mask on that's true you really don't want to catch it somebody could walk right out and boom you got BA5 we we don't want that then not when we're so close to the trip anyways we're trying our best it's it is paranoia but it's better to be safe than sorry when you have a trip and you have backers and everything ready.
18:05 John Daub: Let's do this I know it looks it does look like most of them are closed so we're trying our best to keep there as little as possible so this is the Sapporo Ramen Yokocho and a lot of the shops have changed they don't know wow it smells like ramen! You see this one this one has grilled chashu steaks. This is the one we want to go to the Shopping Mall in Lake Akan so this is the one I was talking about this this one right here. So will you just steak in there? Yeah so we're actually gonna try to go to this one but we're going to go to the shop now is the main fill up that we want to try in Lake Akan which is the middle of Sapporo, Hokkaido. So they have a shop here but for the documentary we might be going in there. One of the famous ramen here in Hokkaido is the butter corn ramen with copious amounts of butter corn.
19:02 John Daub: Thank you to Mohammed for pledging 9,000 yen. Thank you. We're getting updates from the Kickstarter. By the way, just checked, we're about 14 short of a dive into Lake Akan. Wow, we're 14 people short of 500 backers. Which is amazing. Yeah, thank you. And Super Fjord Manon, do you prefer country roads or on the road again? Wow, that is a great question. Which one do you prefer, country road or on the road again?
19:46 Peter von Gomm: Well, both those artists I highly respect. Which one? John Denver and Willie Nelson.
19:53 John Daub: Oh, come on over here. How about if we sing country roads like this? Country roads again. Take me to West Virginia. West Virginia, mountain miles. Take me home. Country roads again.
20:16 Peter von Gomm: On the road again. On the road again. On the road again. This is the only way to get home.
20:27 John Daub: Oh, what about this one? Life is a highway.
20:33 Peter von Gomm: Copyright. I want to die. On the road. I have no idea. You don't know that one? Life is a highway? Life is a highway. That's it. That's from a part, right? No, it's like that guy. Yeah. Rascal Flatts. Is it? Rascal Flatts, yeah. Tom Cochran Canadian.
21:05 John Daub: That's a tough one to get out of your head. I'm gonna have to say the John Denver one. I'm gonna do John Denver Country roads. What about you?
21:16 Peter von Gomm: You're going Willie it's hard to go against Willie I'm not going against him. I'm just really for John Denver. Wow. Okay, so oh So what just because John Denver's dead Then you play Gilligan and Gilligan Bob Denver Good question They changed the sign it's not as good without the neon lights, right This is the one of the most popular ones. This is where you get the butter corn ramen. It's more of a Chinese flavored ramen So there you go. That was that Sapporo Ramen Yokocho.
22:00 John Daub: Let's go out to them I'm gonna go down the street and say goodbye to everybody because we got some places to go You know what a main When I we're not going I'm not really going out. We are not going out We're sick. We got no reason to go out Perry it's not worth it. No Is that what it's called yeah, it's called 60 60 minutes, what's the time limit for? What cowgirl? Wow Why do they have a time limit? 60 minutes a lot of time. What can't you not do in 60 minutes? Boom boom Stop that since they can't get in a bad deal. That's probably that the price you paid somehow another zero gets added Oh, what what's out the point here God hot dog and rock Pretty cool That's something you'd see like these us I didn't think you'd see Nice looking neon lights like this with a cool in English.
23:30 John Daub: All right, everybody I hope that you hope you enjoyed Sapporo as much as we did not enough time but we're gonna have to go home now and and I did videos So there you go. That's just a little feeling of what it's like around here if you have any questions, you can leave us a note behind note and we will Getting everything I said see you in another livestream tomorrow, but it's nice to stop in the city You know the narrator for that that you would like to get you don't I Just Peter's to work, maybe I did a narration job and they digitalized everything. It didn't even sound like me What a ripoff Hey, well, all right everybody. Thanks so much Thank you Bob for pledging Bob is pledged thousand yen for Only in Japan Hiker Hokkaido Motorcycle Adventures appreciate very much Bob See your tongue Toby's in here and we will be back tomorrow See you guys tomorrow See ya Tomorrow That's all That was a very strong beer wasn't it all right see you on the road? Oh Cute Thank you She was just staring at us and waving incessantly like this I think we need to extend this We're walking in the opposite direction for our own benefits Let's go Thank you What's the name of the store? Uh, yeah Oh, thank you sir Hey wait There's the big one and the small one Hold the umbrella Trade something Awkward stuff happens out here guys Oh look at the burger place Michael Jordan jersey I'm sold Empty too Wow, I've been given a lot of trouble here Where have you taken me John?
26:09 Peter von Gomm: You can be home Your room By the way we got two separate rooms Thanks guys for the support We got in the room like, oh these are kind of small So we ended up getting another room For Peter Wow, check it out Takoyaki Can you eat that Peter? That's a lot of oil Wow That's more oil than usual.
26:51 John Daub: Alright click that like button and we will see you again tomorrow We're just taking you out here Um Tomorrow what do we have on the agenda?
26:59 Peter von Gomm: We're going to be riding to a rider house Yeah, really cool rider house You'll find out all about that in our documentary I think we can get some drone shots and do a segment for the documentary Then we'll be right back We're going to have a very long drive Very long drive to the easternmost point of Hokkaido Easternmost point of Hokkaido So that car is just going around the block Tempting us Do you think she paid for that or? I don't know.
27:32 John Daub: Alright everybody, we'll see you then tomorrow We changed vehicles but we're going to be riding for half the day Driving for the entire second half of that day Bye from Sapporo.