Only in Japan Go — Transcripts
Summaries + full diarized transcripts
2022-12-09 · Ep 1334 · 48m

Miyajima's Streets are Magical but Stay the Night

Hiroshimaovernight travelstreet foodshrine visitfamily travel
Summary

Miyajima's Streets are Magical but Stay the Night

Overview

John Daub returns to Miyajima (Itsukushima), a tranquil island off the coast of Hiroshima, for an overnight stay with his wife Kanae and son Leo. Having lived near Hiroshima 20 years ago, John observes significant changes in the island's infrastructure and tourism landscape. The video highlights the distinct advantage of staying overnight: experiencing the shopping streets and shrine in peaceful solitude before the day-trip crowds arrive.

The family explores the one-kilometer shopping street, sampling local specialties like deep-fried momiji manju (maple leaf buns) and kaki fry (fried oysters). John provides practical advice on navigating the island, from ferry timings to hotel costs, and emphasizes the importance of respecting the local wildlife. The journey culminates at the iconic Great Torii Gate of Itsukushima Shrine, captured at high tide under clear winter skies.

Throughout the stream, John balances travel guidance with family moments, showcasing how Miyajima suits visitors of all ages while warning about the potential aggression of male deer. The video serves as both a nostalgic return for John and a comprehensive guide for travelers considering an overnight trip to one of Japan's top three scenic sites.

Highlights

  • 00:00:04 John introduces Miyajima and explains the benefits of staying overnight to avoid crowds.
  • 00:05:24 Close-up look at momiji manju (maple leaf buns) and recent innovations in flavors.
  • 00:09:05 John orders deep-fried momiji manju, a recent street food phenomenon.
  • 00:12:32 Photos of the Great Torii Gate at sunset demonstrate the beauty of night stays.
  • 00:18:01 Observation of cormorants diving in the Seto Inland Sea.
  • 00:25:03 First clear view of the Great Torii Gate at high tide.
  • 00:30:41 Advice on visiting the shrine before 10 a.m. for a Zen experience.
  • 00:40:12 Important safety tips regarding feeding deer and avoiding males (osu).
  • 00:43:00 Behind-the-scenes look at momiji manju being baked on a grill.
  • 00:47:30 John mentions the camping option on the island as a budget alternative.

Timeline / Chapters

  • 00:00:00 Introduction to Miyajima and overnight benefits
  • 00:02:00 Meeting Kanae and Leo; hotel location discussion
  • 00:03:00 Walking the shopping street; new shops vs. old style
  • 00:05:00 Momiji manju varieties and innovations
  • 00:09:00 Buying deep-fried momiji manju
  • 00:12:00 Sunset photos and deer encounters
  • 00:15:00 Approaching Itsukushima Shrine and Great Torii
  • 00:18:00 Wildlife observation (cormorants)
  • 00:25:00 Viewing the Torii Gate at high tide
  • 00:30:00 Walking back towards the hotel; shrine entrance
  • 00:36:00 Seto Inland Sea views and equipment talk
  • 00:40:00 Deer safety etiquette and male deer warnings
  • 00:43:00 Watching momiji manju being made
  • 00:47:00 Conclusion and camping information

Japan Travel Tips

  • Stay Overnight: Hotels are pricier than the mainland, but staying overnight allows you to experience the island without the crowds that arrive between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m.
  • Arrive Early: Take the first ferry in the morning to enjoy peace and tranquility at the shrine before tour groups arrive.
  • Deer Etiquette: Do not feed the deer. They can become aggressive. Avoid male deer (osu), especially if you have children, as they have a temper.
  • Hotel Booking: Check if you qualify for resident travel campaigns (like Go-To Travel) before booking international sites to save money.
  • Camping Option: There is a campsite on the island (approx. 500 yen), though it is a 45-minute walk from the ferry pier.
  • Tide Times: Check the tide schedule. At low tide, you can walk out to the base of the Torii Gate, but the mud can be messy.
  • Photography: Tripods are not allowed inside the shrine. Ask staff or fellow travelers to take photos for you.

Japanese Language & Culture Notes

  • Itsukushima vs. Miyajima: Miyajima literally means "Shrine Island." Locals often refer to the island by the shrine's name, Itsukushima.
  • Momiji Manju: Momiji refers to Japanese maple leaves. These buns are shaped like maple leaves and are the island's signature souvenir.
  • Kaki: Japanese word for oysters. Hiroshima is famous for oyster farming.
  • Kanpai: The Japanese toast for "Cheers." John notes his son Leo says "Pankai" instead.
  • Itadakimasu / Gochisousama deshita: Phrases said before and after eating respectively.
  • Ashiyu: A foot bath, often found near hotels or onsens for relaxation.
  • Osu: Male (animal). John warns tourists to stay away from osu deer.

Food & Drink Guide

  • Deep-Fried Momiji Manju: 00:09:05 A recent innovation where the maple leaf bun is battered and deep-fried. Available in flavors like custard and cheese. Cost around 200 yen each.
  • Kaki Fry (Fried Oysters): 00:04:02 Famous Hiroshima street food. Breaded and fried oysters.
  • Coffee Ice Cream: 00:07:04 Available at a local coffee shop; John tried a half-and-half vanilla/coffee split.
  • Asari (Clams) in Miso Soup: 00:25:03 Locals pick tiny clams from the mud flats at low tide; served at hotels for breakfast.

People

  • John Daub: Host and creator of Only in Japan Go. American living in Japan for 30+ years. Former resident of Hiroshima area.
  • Kanae Daub: John's Japanese wife. Joins John and Leo on the walk, helps purchase food.
  • Leo: John and Kanae's young son (approx. 20 months old). Experiencing Miyajima for the first time. Interacts with deer and enjoys walking.

Key Takeaways

  • Miyajima transforms completely after 4:30 p.m. and before 10 a.m. when day-trippers are absent.
  • The island has undergone significant renovation and modernization during the pandemic to prepare for tourism recovery.
  • Deer are wild animals; feeding them encourages aggression, and male deer can be dangerous to children.
  • Staying overnight is expensive but offers a unique, magical perspective on the Great Torii Gate and shrine.
  • The island is larger than expected, with hiking opportunities on Mount Misen and wildlife beyond just deer (monkeys, boars, tanuki).

Notable Quotes

  • 00:00:43 "One of the great things about being here overnight is that you have the entire island almost to yourself."
  • 00:01:44 "When you think of Japan, you think of Mount Fuji... And you're going to see it in about 10 minutes in this live stream."
  • 00:05:24 "They make a confection not out of the leaves but out of the shape of it."
  • 00:10:23 "This is the greatest street food. Deep fried momiji manju."
  • 00:25:03 "The color is even more striking because my vision is 14-bit 8K HDR."
  • 00:30:41 "You want like this peace and tranquility when you visit any kind of a shrine. And it's so hard to do."
  • 00:40:12 "You do not want them to be your friend. They're deer. You're human. I'm serious."
  • 00:47:30 "At night it's spooky, which is awesome."

Related Topics

  • Hiroshima Travel Guide
  • Japanese Shrine Etiquette
  • Family Travel in Japan
  • Japanese Street Food
  • Seto Inland Sea Islands
  • Wildlife Encounters in Japan

Search Tags

#only-in-japan-go #miyajima #itsukushima #hiroshima #momiji-manju #deer #torii-gate #overnight-stay #family-travel #street-food #shrine #seto-inland-sea #japan-travel #john-daub


Full Transcript

00:00:04 John Daub: Good morning, everybody. Welcome to Miyajima. This is Itsukushima, also known as Miyajima. It's a very tranquil little island off the shore, just about 15 minutes on the JR train from Hiroshima City. And it is a beautiful island. I used to live in this area, a little town called Yokogawa, which is in central Hiroshima. And I would come here on the weekends 20 years ago. And it has changed quite a bit. In this live stream, you're going to come along with me. But you're going to see that the changes that have been made here are pretty amazing over the last couple of years.

00:00:43 John Daub: How you doing, everybody? Good morning. One of the great things about being here overnight is that you have the entire island almost to yourself. Tourists start to roll in around 10 a.m., 11 a.m. And then between 11 and 3 or 4 p.m., this island is almost overrun with tourists, especially now that tourism has restarted here in Japan. And one of the great advantages of staying overnight here is because you get those streets completely empty. As soon as 4:30 rolls around and in the winter the sun goes down, it's magic. All the deer are walking around. You're going to see that. And I'm going to take you to the end of the shopping street and show you the great Torii Gate, which is one of the iconic images of Japan. When you think of Japan, you think of Mount Fuji. You think of maybe Tokyo Tower, Tokyo Skytree. Maybe you think of Dotonbori in Osaka. And you're going to see it in about 10 minutes in this live stream. So let's get moving.

00:01:44 John Daub: We're also going to kind of learn about if this is a family-friendly place. It is in a way because there are deer here. Joining us for this live stream are two people who enjoy the company of deer and me sometimes, usually, always: Kanae and Leo. Leo-kun!

00:02:07 Kanae Daub: Oh, hi!

00:02:09 John Daub: You want to see some deer?

00:02:11 Leo: Deer?

00:02:13 John Daub: He's eating Miyajima cookies. Oh, he got a Miyajima cookie? Yeah, from a hotel.

00:02:18 Kanae Daub: Oh, that's nice.

00:02:19 John Daub: The hotel we're staying at is a little bit far from the ferry terminal. It's like a 20-minute walk. But it's up in the hill and away from everybody. I'll put a link in the description if you're really interested or I'll make a comment and pin it. I think it's a three-star hotel and they're doing some renovations. The hotels here are a little bit more expensive than they would be on the mainland, mainly because it's one of the top three sites according to some Japanese scholar. I don't know what the other two are. I just used to live here so I'm very proud of Miyajima. So that makes it a very popular destination in supply and demand.

00:03:06 John Daub: Oh, we almost ate here last night, right? This is a new pub. You're going to see a lot of new really stylish shops. When I lived here 20 years ago, this street was filled with mom and pop shops, like family-run businesses of locals that lived here on Itsukushima. I'm going to be calling it Itsukushima because I want you to know that name. That's the name of the shrine that was founded in the 12th century. So that name is by locals more known than Miyajima. Is that a coffee bar? That's an oyster bar. That's crazy. Like all the businesses that have popped up are in particular for foreign tourists. But that's not a bad thing because foreign tourists in general are probably more into the upscale places than the older Showa-era looking places these days.

00:04:02 John Daub: Here's a chef. I believe he's making grilled kaki (oysters). Kaki fries. And kaki fry is fried oysters, which is famous in Hiroshima.

00:04:28 John Daub: Alright, again, the stores have really renovated. So I think a lot of these places took the time during the pandemic when there weren't many tourists to shut down and prepare for when the tourists would reopen. So I think that Miyajima, the island here, Itsukushima, really did a great job of preparing for the tourism boom which is now upon us. Yesterday I was just shocked at the amount of people that were here.

00:05:05 John Daub: Leo, you want that? You want it? Is it a tanuki? No, it's a deer. I thought this was like a tanuki. Oh, that's a tanuki, right? It's a dog. Tanuki (raccoon dog) is a Japanese raccoon.

00:05:24 John Daub: One of the things here in Miyajima that you will see right away are the momiji manju (maple leaf buns). You see these? Momiji are the Japanese maples. And they turn a bright red, sometimes a yellow or orange. And they're just so colorful and beautiful. And they make a confection not out of the leaves but out of the shape of it. What I've seen over the last few years, about five years ago, I hitchhiked through here and I saw the beginning of some changes in Miyajima. I saw that they would take the momiji manju and they would innovate it. They would do something with it that was different than everybody else, which made them special. And so people would go back to that particular shop. Because the momiji manju was everywhere. It was like almost had the same taste and I didn't know what was special from one shop to the other. So they did something different. This one looks like they've made it out of like an apple pie looking momiji manju, right? That's pretty good.

00:07:04 John Daub: Oh, here's the Great Torii. And we're going to be seeing that really soon. Actually, Great Torii is made of wood. Um, these little stands have popped up. What they've done is renovated some of the older places. And you can see that there's a Showa-era picture of what the stand used to look like. And they've just redone it. And I like the way that they've kept it looking like its original self. But they made it structurally better. And more appealing. Meaning, like, it doesn't look like it was made in the Showa era, but it looks like it was made in the Showa era yesterday. And that's the important thing. Um, this is a Miyajima coffee. And this shop has opened up. I think this might have been here five years ago, too. But, you know, Japan is a country of tea. But coffee is just so much more special. And yesterday we had this half and half, the coffee ice cream here. It was incredible. I got half and half because Leo had the vanilla part. And Kanae had the vanilla coffee, and I had the coffee. So it worked out pretty good.

00:08:16 John Daub: Weather is warmer than I thought it was going to be. It feels like it's about 57. It's a little bit too chilly for shorts, but just warm enough where I don't need a jacket. This is a soy sauce factory. I think this was here before. It's hard to remember, but seems to go really deep in there. Really beautiful shops here. Walking down the shopping street, it's about a kilometer long. Oh, this is the nigiri-ten. I featured this on my old channel. The owner let me film, and I remember I just asked him suddenly, and he said, sure. And I think he's still there. I think he remembers because he was looking at me funny yesterday.

00:09:05 John Daub: All right, we're going to get some street food here. It's opened up. So this momiji manju makes like cake, right? It's a little different, right?

00:09:13 Kanae Daub: Yeah.

00:09:16 John Daub: Yeah. It's at the end of the street, and you see this one shop and the other shop to the left here? This is the one that I ate before as well, and they deep fry it. So we're going to get two deep fried ones. Kanae, you want to get two?

00:09:30 Kanae Daub: Yes.

00:09:31 John Daub: Okay, let me give you, here's 400 yen. You want cream or cheese?

00:09:37 Kanae Daub: Anything.

00:09:38 John Daub: You want me to take Leo or do you? I can carry Leo. You want the mango? Maybe custard.

00:09:45 Kanae Daub: Custard?

00:09:50 John Daub: You need 400 yen, right?

00:09:51 Kanae Daub: Yeah.

00:09:51 John Daub: All right, boom. This momiji manju is brought to you by Gabobot. Thank you. Our friends in Canada. And you can see here they are deep frying this. Look at this here. Wow. There's the oil. And they've made it so you can get it from vending machines, which is really cool.

00:10:23 John Daub: I can try. Oh, look at that. They make them fresh. Oh great. We're going to get a chance to see this. Wow. I can smell it deep frying. Oh my gosh. This is the greatest street food. Deep fried momiji manju. Oh my gosh. I think they've redone this booth. They have glass around here. I think it's just a protocol for the times we live in which is smart for them but I can't hear and smell the sizzling. Wow that's crazy they batter it up and then they deep fry it. They'll call your number so because they're making it fresh they'll give you a number and the great thing about this shop and the one reason is that we've been here three times already. Oh they have tea in there oh yeah right they have tea in the back is they make sure that you get it right out of the fryer it only takes like 45 seconds or so to cook it but there's nothing like deep fried anything that comes straight from the fryer.

00:12:32 John Daub: While we're waiting for this I can show you some pictures that we took last night check this out boom this is last night um the great torii at sunset and this is another reason why you'd want to stay here at night it's just stunning isn't it check that out boom and I think I have a picture of us here yeah there you go that's us uh in front of the shrine I tried to take a selfie it's really hard Leo wants to move he doesn't like to be captured in the net but it's for his own safety because it's really easy for kids to fall in the water or try to touch the deer or something so you have to be a little bit more careful speaking of the deer uh leo did a little bit easier than i thought but i think you all got the idea it's about the deer um and he's going in there he's got the deer doing the same thing he's just like oh he's like oh of the deer so yeah but there you go leo did discover some of the deer look at them they look like they're kissing but make sure that when the kids see the deer they don't go after the osu! the male deers they go after the females ah leo dropped it here the female deer are a little bit more tame.

00:14:05 John Daub: Which one is custard? This is custard, Kanae. Okay, we can share. Alright Leo, let's go. Let's walk out here because it'll need to cool down a little bit. No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no. No? No wait? Oh my gosh. Yeah, yeah, yo. Yeah, careful. It is very hot. Alright, we're going to be taking you towards the Great Torii Gate.

00:15:02 John Daub: It's a shrine. Itsukushima Shrine. And again, it was founded all the way back in the 12th century, which is crazy, right? You can see it's a beautiful day. I'm glad you could be here for today. Look at that. Oh, my gosh. The sun is out. The clouds are wispy white. Blue skies. Very little wind in the morning. Another reason why morning is just fantastic here. So if you are staying close to Miyajima and Hiroshima, get here on the first ferry. Because you will thank me for the peacefulness you will have. Because once 11, 12 o'clock hits, that peacefulness just kind of, yeah, it's gone. All right, there's the great shrine right there, the great torii gate. But first, Kanae and I are going to eat these momiji manju out of the fryer. You have to give it a second.

00:16:02 John Daub: You want me to take off your mask?

00:16:04 Kanae Daub: Yeah.

00:16:07 John Daub: Look at this here. Hold on. Yeah. I really like it.

00:16:18 Kanae Daub: No, I think you like it.

00:16:21 John Daub: Yeah, I like it. Don't blame. But she likes it too. Don't pin this on Leo. You like it. Look at this. This is a momiji manju that has been tempura-ized. Tempura is the deep fried Japanese goodies. You can tempura-ize almost anything. But again, this is a recent phenomenon. This comes back to like about five, six years ago, they started doing this. It's good though. Come on, Leo. Leo the lion. Good. Leo's taking some medicine. Maybe you should put the medicine in the manju. He'll eat it. It's hard to get him to eat the manju. All right, I'm going to try this custard here. That's good. Can you try one bite? You can have it. Really? Hey Leo, custard. Can you try custard? He just likes the crunchy bit. Oh. Okay. Can I eat mine yesterday too? Oh, yeah. Oh, wow. This is weird.

00:18:01 John Daub: Look at the birds out there. I know that they grow seaweed out there. I'm not sure if that's where it is. Are those cormorants? The birds that will dive down, but there's an entire flock of them. They're underwater. Now they just pop back up. You see it? Look at that. They're like in unison and they all went down and dive for the fish. And now there they go. This is amazing. Yeah, I think that they are. Let's take you now to... There they go. You can see them. They look like cormorants. Yeah, or aosagi (blue heron) or something. Oh, they're going diving. Nature. There's more than just deer on this island and we're going to see a couple of them right now. You've been seeing the shopping street. Now let's see the deer. We're going to take you to the end where people take photos of the great Torii Gate. And this just gives you kind of a vibe of what it's like here on the island, right?

00:20:13 Leo: Oh, he wants water?

00:20:15 John Daub: Oh, he says... He doesn't say water. He goes watu. Watu, watu. Okay. I have the watu. Right here. Good watu. Water. Leo, water. Here, you can... I'll take the trash. More, more. A little more. Done. Alright, let's move on. Leo has his own way of saying things. Between you and me, he'll say... We taught him to say kanpai (cheers), but he can't say that. He says pankai. He says kanpai became pankai. And now I say pankai because it sounds cuter than kanpai. I don't know. He just mixed the words around. If you ask foreign tourists to say itadakimasu (I humbly receive) or gochisousama deshita (thank you for the meal), you might get something similar, but it won't sound as cute as pankai.

00:21:29 John Daub: So, there's a lot of school students here, but sometimes it can get slightly annoying because then they'll all come out. They've been given tasks by their teachers to interview foreigners to get answers sometimes. And you could stand there for 30 minutes while they ask you questions sometimes. So, politely, you can say, no speak English or something, okay? If you don't want to do it. If you're late for a ferry or something and you're running, they ask you, you get, no English, no English, and then, no Japanese, no English, and then just run away. This is what I do. A few times. Because I've been here so many times, I didn't want to take the quiz every time. You gotta do what you gotta do. Make that ferry. There's a Starbucks here. Yesterday, I showed in an Instagram story. There's a Starbucks here. I feel conflicted. I'm not happy about that at all. And yet, I would go if it's here, right? And here's some students here. In the morning, you get the students because, oh, look, it's steaming over there. That must be like hot water or something. You see that, guys? The morning mist, the sun burning off something. I'm not sure. It's really beautiful.

00:23:07 John Daub: Sorry, this is a new app called Prism that I'm using. So, you can get 1080p. It's using HEVC codec. It's a little bit better than the streams I did before because of that. But it's not perfect. So, there's some things. The image will flip when I do the front camera. And I can't flip that back on iOS. There's just little teeny things. I know about them. Thanks, everybody, for pointing them out. Here's the deer. Leo deer. Leo deer. Leo deer. Yesterday, he would stand and confront them and speak in some language. What's he saying? Leo, tell him about your trip from Tokyo on the Shinkansen. Tell her. I think she's very interested. He wants to walk. He says, walk, walk, which means walk. Okay, should we let him walk or no walk? Yeah, I'm a little bit scared too. But as long as I guess we're giving him our full attention and I'm not doing a live stream, perhaps. But I am. It's not ideal.

00:25:03 John Daub: While Kanae is considering letting Leo walk, let me show you this. This is the great Torii Gate of Miyajima that it takes your breath away every time you see it with your own eyes. The color is even more striking because my vision is 14-bit 8K HDR. That's what I see and I guess it looks really nice here. The tide is in. Yesterday, when we came in the evening, the tide was out. If you come in the morning, you'll see local weather. The locals picking the little teeny asari (clams) or what are they like little clams, shellfish out and they may put it in miso soup. And I think we got that at the hotel this morning. It was just so beautiful. So delicious. The food was but this site is so beautiful. Last night, I think I showed you the pictures earlier in the live stream. It's amazing to spend the night here. And I know a lot of you won't do that because it is a little bit pricey to do that to spend the night here, but it is so worth it because if you've been to the island and you did a day trip, then spend the night here because you're going to want to see another side of it. Also the island is much bigger than people expect. It's like 100 times bigger than Okunoshima Rabbit Island, where we were yesterday.

00:26:22 John Daub: Everybody's got their selfie sticks. This is one of the points, but I'd say if you come here in the morning, I take the picture for the thumbnail. It was here before everybody came here. It was so nice. And if you do want to take a picture, you want to come here in the morning to go there. That is the Itsukushima Shrine. Oh, they got deer hats. Geeks, nerds. I don't judge. I would be doing it too. Really? Torques. Sorry. It's been clear throat. It must be the manju. I don't judge.

00:27:34 John Daub: Now we're walking back towards the hotel because we have to check out at 11. But you can see already that the ferries have come in and the amount of people here is crazy. I don't know if this is going to impact the live stream or not. Can I what are you pointing at? The boat is coming here. Oh, wow. When the tide is out, these stairways will take you down to the mud. Make sure if you do go into the mud that you wash your shoes or bring a towel or something. But can get kind of nasty. Look at the boat. Oh, man. We could try that next time. I don't think I would wear one of those hats, though. That's a little bit too touristy. I'll just wear a baseball cap. They make you wear the hat because then I don't think I would do it. Pikachu hat. Maybe. Yeah, maybe not. Canai is on this way? We'll take you to the entrance of the shrine. I do remember the signal was not great here. I guess the hats just if you wear a costume or cosplay or hats, it does make you feel like you are somewhere else. So the chat is kind of frozen a little bit. I think it might be because I'm switching back and forth. So I can't see any chats that might be coming in. I think I can't see the super chats. It's just really beautiful at night. If you do come to see the shrine, there's what it looks like. It's just so stunning, isn't it? I'm sure I can. I'm going to make this a postcard in the future and send it from Miyajima. Leo you're free. Where the deer usually hanging out by the port. There they are actually. So the photograph, dude, he always wants to get deer in the photo. So he I think he feeds them, which is not. Yeah, he feeds them. I'm not judging, but I think that that's kind of illegal to do that. But yeah, you can see the deer there and yeah, you shouldn't be feeding the deer. All right, let me let's take you towards the hotel because we have to walk back and pack up our stuff.

00:30:41 John Daub: Being good. He walks like Pingu sometimes because we watch Pingu together. It's on Netflix now. Very mini kimono. All the grannies. And people just love Leo, which I'm cool with. This is the entrance to the shrine. And once again, I highly recommend that you come in the morning before 10 a.m. just before the tourist boats. It's so much more peaceful and you want to have that kind of a Zen moment. You want like this peace and tranquility when you visit any kind of a shrine. And it's so hard to do. But in the afternoons, again, this was founded in the 12th century. And it's when the tide isn't like it is right now, quite high. It's beautiful. And you can look back. Let's see here if I can get at the end, you look back from that point where they are. And it's the perfect angle to get a picture of the great torii gate. There is some music going on inside the shrine. They perform ceremonies so Japanese families can pay to have prayers and special sessions where they're blessed. And especially if you have a new child or you want to get rid of evil spirits and things like this, they're happy to help you out with blessings. And it helps to keep the shrine in working order. There's often a line to get that picture, so no tripods allowed inside. So if you go inside, ask one of the staff members or one of your fellow travelers to take the picture for you. And make sure you check it because it could be an awful picture. I got many of them. Grandpa doesn't know how to use the camera. And yeah, that's years ago. It's beautiful though with the tide in, isn't it? We're staying up in a hotel behind here too. So we'll see if there's a signal and take you up the street.

00:33:19 Leo: Leo! Akane, you go inside?

00:33:22 John Daub: Are you going? We might have to go inside next time. It's crowded. He wants to go inside? Yeah, we gotta check out at 11, so we have to be back at the hotel now. He wants to go. Yeah, he does. He wants to go too. He needs a blessing. Leo, I shall bless you with a high five. Here, touch. No, he wants to go. He really wants to go. Yeah. Michael, is he walking already? Michael, he's running. He's jumping. He's climbing. Just any verb, he can do it almost. Loitering, he does that. Vandalism. Took a pen and missed the paper and drew all over the Shinkansen tray. Luckily, the alcohol wipes got that off. Yeah, Michael, he's 20 months. So he's... Yeah, mom got in trouble. Leo, let's go see some deer. Let's go see some deer. You want me to carry him? You can carry the bag?

00:35:05 Kanae Daub: Yeah.

00:35:07 John Daub: Please be quiet. She said, please quiet? Oh my gosh, they're spiritual people. What are they doing there? Ah, right. I heard like some kind of shinto ritual or something going on there. Leo, you must be calm in mind and in body. Maybe if we let him ride the deer, he will be calm. Although, actually, he rides mommy sometimes when she's on the ground stretching and he's not calm. In fact, he's very worked up. He's a pony. Yeah, mama pony. Is that the word? He's a mama pony. And when I'm sleeping, he'll jump on me, on my face, and then try to ride my face and say, dada pony. That's not the best way to wake up before six.

00:36:11 John Daub: Yeah, it's absolutely stunning. You know, this is part of the Seto Inland Sea region. This is from Okayama down to Hiroshima. They're very famous. And I guess it includes parts of Kagawa and Ehime Prefectures in Shikoku. The water of the Seto Inland Sea region is just stunning. Look at that emerald green. Isn't it? It's absolutely different from Tokyo. Of course, the Sumida River that I live on does not look like this. Actually, UFO Bob, if anybody does give me a super chat rolls in, just let me know just in case. Because I don't want to miss saying thank you to anybody. The Itsukushima Shrine does have the spaceboat which is absolutely one of its great treasures. It's a national treasure. There's a sign that has been here for 25 years since I came here first. It says, to the ropeway. It's a thing. 15 minutes and 10 minutes if you run a little. It's one of the cutest little signs. I don't know if they still have it. I haven't been in the ropeway in 20 years, but I never go further than the town. If you can rent a boat, you can go around the island. There's a kaki fry or fried oyster shack. They're just opening up right now.

00:38:16 John Daub: Dolphin reminds me, wait until he's a couple of years from now and he'll wake you up the daybreak on Christmas. That's okay because I wake up at daybreak on Christmas as well. I think this year I'm gonna be the one that wakes Leo up. So maybe Dolphin, I should get my revenge now. I'm gonna wake Leo up at 5 a.m. Kanae, is that okay? When we go back to the USA, because of jet lag, we wake up at 5 a.m. anyways, so we've been always the first ones up. Yeah, four. I can't remember that was a long time ago since the last time we were back for the holidays. But this year I probably will wake Leo up at five. That's my revenge. Wake up and open your presents because I want to play because I bought most of the gifts for myself because you're too young to enjoy them. Yeah, Prism has this little audio glitch when I switch the cameras. So I try not to do it too often, but it's hard to say no to that shot with the yellow leaves that have just fallen on the roof there. It's just stunning. So I don't want to give everybody motion sickness. There's another angle from here looking through the back entrance of Itsukushima Shrine, which I think is really beautiful. Hold on a little motion here. Yeah, right here is a really nice scene here from the backside. It's a beautiful day. In the distance, I think that's another hotel, but I've never stayed there. Like a resort type of a hotel.

00:40:12 John Daub: I accidentally dropped my camera and fell, camera and I broke the ND filter. There's a crack in it. I don't think I can use that anymore, right? You gotta take better care of your equipment. The tripod wasn't latched on. The camera wasn't latched on strong enough for the tripod. I'm just happy it landed on the ND filter and not on the lens because I had a prime lens on. You gotta take care of your stuff. Better the ND filter than the lens. Yeah, right, Shane? Although that's one of the Peter McKinnon ND filters and Peter took quite a chunk out of that, I think, because they're really a little pricey. But it's a variable ND filter. I'll probably just buy another one as my own Christmas present now. There's not a lot that I want. Hey! They're hanging out! Now you gotta switch lenses here. Boom! They're just chillaxing. Aliyah, which one is your friend? Warming in the sun. That's the baby, yeah. This one is a daddy. You gotta be careful. The daddies, they don't want anything to do with anybody. The osu, we call them the men, the male deer. They have a temper, so you want to stay away from them a little bit. And you want to stay away from the male ones. So for kids, the one, the biggest tip I could say, number one, don't feed them. It's cute to feed the deer, but they will become aggressive and make sure they get all of the food. So if you're going to feed them, you're going to have to be careful. If you give them a little bit of your ice cream, they're not going to leave you alone. They're going to follow you and harass you. And if you have kids, that's the worst thing that they'll do because they will get up on their hind legs and get upset if you don't give them the food. So please keep that in mind. Do not feed the deer. You do not want them to be your friend. They're deer. You're human. I'm serious. The second thing is that if you have a child, it's okay to approach the female and the baby deer, but don't approach the male deer because they are not nice. Some, most of the time. I'm not, you know, man, we dudes, we like our space. Okay.

00:43:00 John Daub: Oh, that's really cool. I like how they make these momiji manju, like the old style. Oh, they're filling in the custard. These are custards. Oh no, no, they're putting in the batter. Yeah. Zuotaku, they actually will remove the deer antlers for the safety of the tourists. Or if the deer does something wrong, then they will remove them as well. So it just depends on the situation. But I've talked with locals before about this and they said yeah, if the deer do something really bad, then they will remove the male antlers. But I've seen a lot of them have been removed. So I'm guessing they do this. I'll say put the uncle on one side and the batter on the other, then the hot grills they're heated underneath there. Interesting. It also smells amazing right now. You can't smell it, but it's baking through the window. You can smell it. It's really nice. It's a little shop here. Our hotel is up here, this hill. And yeah, you know, I made a huge mistake. I booked on booking.com during the go-to travel campaign. And if I'd booked directly with the hotel or through a Japanese company, I would have, we would have gotten 50,000 yen. So not only did I break my ND filter, I lost about 20,000 yen or $150 because I booked with booking.com because I could have as a Japanese resident taking advantage of the go-to travel campaign, which we were able to do on Okunoshima. The hotel was like less than a hundred dollars, which is crazy. Cause it's the only one there. It's pretty nice enough, but we messed up for this one because we booked at the last minute, so we weren't sure if we're going to come here. There are deer on this road as well. And they're also tanuki, right? Shiroi tanuki (white raccoon dogs), like white raccoons they have on this island. I don't know why it's really weird. And they also have, I think they have inoshishi (wild boars). And they also have monkeys up on Mount Misen, which is over 500 meters, I think 535 meters, maybe 1800 feet. You can climb it. There's a cable car. 10:30. Oh yeah. We better check out time to time to get out of here. White tanuki, like white raccoons. It's weird. We thought they were dogs because they had a picture of them in the elevator, but they're not maybe a dog bred with a raccoon. I don't know if that can even work too many deep fried momiji manju. Here's the hotel on the right side. You can see it's a, there's a guest house here, which looks pretty nice. What's this Mikuniya? Is that the kanji Mikuniya? All right. Here's the hotel up on the top of the hill. It's a, I think it's a three star. They have a ashiyu (foot bath) in the front. And yeah, it's got a pink motif or a pink and purple and dark motif. And the breakfast was okay. And there's the foot bath. I think it's shut down.

00:47:30 John Daub: All right, everybody. I hope you enjoyed this. We gave you a nice tour of Miyajima. This is Leo's first time and we wanted to see what it was like for a kid under two. Oh yeah. Your first time. He wants to walk. That's why he's crying. So, um, yeah. So I hope this gives you a good overview. We took you before the tourists came and I kind of like it. I just spending the night here. I've only done it a few times. Usually I do it at the camp. So I'm going to walk around the camp spot, which is only 500 yen, but it takes about 45 minutes to walk there from the ferry pier. And at night it's spooky, which is awesome. Um, there's lots of deer running around that camp spot too. You have to maybe call in advance and make sure you reserve a spot and you have to pay it. There's nobody there. There's like a little change booth where you can put in your 500 yen. I don't know. They might've raised the price, but, um, it's cool that they have a camping spot here too. Cause the hotels can be like 20 to 30,000 yen, which is a little pricey. Depends on what you can find. There are more hotels have been opened up over the last couple of years. So there's more options. All right. I might take you on the Shinkansen later today. No promises, but just to let you know, we got to go back to Tokyo to see everybody.

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