00:01 John Daub: Welcome to Ningyocho in the heart of Tokyo. We're just starting the show. Check this out. Up here they have a clock and we timed it really well. Check it out. The clock opens up and shows traditional Edo Japan and plays every hour, of course. That is so cool. You see some geisha, warehouse workers, transport dudes. At the base you can hear the sound. There's a storyteller in the front. Let's go to the other side. Here he is, telling the story. The sound is very light. Even for me I can't hear much, but this is just a taste. That's neat. He's going back and forth. The characters up there are moving. You find these clocks in Japanese parks and historical areas. Looks like we've finished the show.

01:24 John Daub: That's one of the reasons why this place is so unique. It's got this vibe—you can feel the culture, the history. Look on the map here. We're in one of the lower areas along the riverside near Suitengu Shrine, where the TCAT bus—the Tokyo City Air Terminal—lets you out. Not a lot of high-rises. A lot of these buildings are older, not very big, which gives it character and personality. I'm at a very famous intersection. If you're choosing a hotel here, you chose wisely. Really nice places, convenient to the airport with that TCAT bus right onto the highway. Great, especially for Narita—less than an hour from here.

02:26 John Daub: Here's the intersection: Amazake Yokocho. If you know what amazake (unfermented sweet sake) is, oh my goodness. No alcohol typically, though some might add a little. I've never had it with alcohol that I remember. Places like this, you can pick it up across the street. Whole range of interesting shops, including a sushi place behind me for local foods. Great spot. There's a sukiyaki restaurant that's been around a couple hundred years—they say it's some of the best. As well as oyakodon (mother-and-child donburi). Because it's raining, the screen isn't turning. Sensitive touch. You can get McDonald's too, if tired of traditional. The Tsukimi Burger is traditional McDonald's Japan—the first burger I had with egg 26 years ago. Still a favorite, represents the harvest moon.

04:06 John Daub: Over here is where oyakodon was born—a chef created it with egg and chicken, mother and child. Bizarrely, cruelly named, but so good. It's a donburi on rice. Down here, more traditional places. Trees give a homey feel. Lots of traditional shops. Let's cross. I'm getting what I always get: tofu or soy milk donuts. Always here. Wonder what they'll put up in this corner—not a nice building now, but opening it would make it attractive. Rain's coming down.

05:06 John Daub: This shop is one of the originals for ningyo-yaki (doll cakes). Ningyo means doll—they make cakes in doll shapes. Usually a long line, but not today—maybe the rain. They make them out back. Some tourists here. If in town, get them. You snooze, you lose—now there's a line. Pick up a pack here. See the boxes of ningyo-yaki. I've sent them to my Daimyo supporters.

06:09 John Daub: Alright, let's go. Like ningyo-yaki, but my favorite's the soy milk donuts around the corner. Taking you to the back alley to show the sukiyaki restaurant—might need a reservation, but worth it. Amazake Yokocho. Couple shops selling amazake. This is a matcha shop—selling ice cream? Usually roasting; you smell that sweet, acidic green tea. Doesn't smell like it now. Old Showa-era roaster. Once roasting hojicha (roasted green tea), that sweet acidic smell wafts—makes you want to try it. One of those smells I strongly associate with Japan: roasting hojicha. This is my connection for soy milk. Got to get some for Kanae Daub. Thanks for the super chats over the years.

07:46 John Daub: Thank you, Michael Sassano. Over my shoulder, amazake ice cream—that'd be interesting. If coming to Amazake Yokocho, get amazake to take home. They sell these bags—pink ones, three for 1000 yen. Take home and make it. Good for the stomach, healthy—get low-sugar. This is the bags—one for 300 yen, or three-four for 1000. Light sugar taste. Really interested in this ice cream. Soft cream? Closed today. Shame.

10:21 John Daub: Not leaving you hanging—really hungry, right in front of Imahan. Let's try a soy donut. Done this many times—my favorite. Soy milk donuts, tonyu donuts. Can take home, but no preservatives—eat quickly. Slightly healthy, still deep fried, made with soy milk. Good with coffee or amazake. Rainy day, probably reduced stock—not much street traffic.

11:31 John Daub: Doesn't matter if staying here—everybody should know Imahan. Part of the adventure is wet lenses. Imahan's in Odaiba? No, renovated old traditional sukiyaki restaurant, famous for wagyu beef. Incredible. Sweet-salty-savory with raw egg and richness. Best kuroge wagyu (black-haired Japanese beef) in Tokyo. Steaks—20,000 yen for five is a bargain vs. US. Butcher shop on bottom floor, reasonable prices, mostly beef, some pork. Thinly sliced for sukiyaki, famous here. Restaurant on side—far, needs reservation. Love those soy milk donuts.

13:10 John Daub: You can get steak, kuroge wagyu sets. Everything in English—lots of foreign tourists. Name is Imahan. Sukiyaki nikuman? Yes! Let's try. Here's an old one. I'll have one. Nice, 240 yen? Have it right away. Also croquette—they're famous for it.

14:44 John Daub: Nikuman (steamed buns) from China, Japan spin—sukiyaki inside. Oh my, so good. Sweet-savory soy with meat, glutinous noodles. Not as good as sukiyaki, but darn good. Didn't know street food at Imahan. Homemade—shiitake mushroom. That's why so good.

17:22 John Daub: Now you feel what's around: soy donuts, nikuman—all good. Walk this way, around alleys, see what else. Maybe a street I've never been down. Workman cobbling shoes. Traditional tamagoyaki (rolled omelet) shop. This makes Ningyocho special—shops specializing in things. Supermarkets like Aeon Mall changed times, got rid of these, but not here. Still that charm. Little traffic. Butcher shop with big meat chunks—yakiniku restaurant? Lunch menu, 2000 yen—affordable. Said hi to owner.

19:54 John Daub: Used to be alcohol vending machine. Strong autumn vibes. Kanji Kyo shop? Nice corner—Hakata and Kyoto kanji? Elaborate bento—save appetite. Closed today. Stylish pizza places. Place with interesting sake, maybe cask sake—hard to find, hinoki (Japanese cedar) wood flavor. No traffic—fun rainy day adventure. Don't need sun to enjoy Tokyo.

21:53 John Daub: Wow, check this—they're making senbei (rice crackers) right now. Flipping so it doesn't burn. Conveyor to package. Hard work, hot with AC. Fresh, crispy, real ingredients—no chemical taste. Smell in air.

23:09 John Daub: Kakigori (shaved ice) shop. New cafe—kissaten (old cafes) leaving for comfy spots. They have kuri manju (chestnut sweets). New store? Yes, since March, during COVID. Live nearby 26 years? From America, YouTuber on NHK, introduce places to foreigners. Live in Ningyocho, eat amazake, soy milk donuts. Live streaming to 500 people.

24:14 Staff: (in Japanese, subtitled/translated) Chestnuts. Sweet potato—natto kinteki [?], thin like soba.

26:49 John Daub: This is cake. Roasted green tea waffle, kuri manju—great in autumn.

28:29 John Daub: Live nearby in Chuo-ku. Mambran (chestnut sweets). They're making it—1mm thin. Had sukiyaki nikuman, soy donut, now dessert kuri manju for Kanae Daub. Fun sharing Japan experience. Store: Fuwari, 11-6, last order 5:30.

33:02 John Daub: Instead of shooing cameras, she invited in—nice. Bought stuff. Izakaya yakiniku—good smell. Rain and wind picking up. Going side streets to hotel—Patreon Anthony left something 10 days ago. Thanks, Anthony—heading there. Chestnut harvest now—she proud of 1mm size. Metric system now. Older neighborhood, trees, nature—buildings from 1950s-60s, some Meiji. Firebombing 1945, Great Kanto Earthquake 1923 destroyed—rebuilt concrete. Tsukiji moved from Nihonbashi. Due for big one—renovations for that. Low buildings, boutique hotels—unique Tokyo. Avoid Shibuya/Shinjuku—loud, dirty. Go shitamachi (downtown), Asakusa, here—feel real Japan, nicer people, history, new businesses.

37:35 John Daub: Walked to station. Great yesterday at Ameyoko Market—Shimura-san gave 1000 yen candy bag.

38:31 John Daub: Postcard for this month's Only in Japan Patreon—from Yugu Shrine, Kochi, secluded Shikoku, no trains. Saw Pacific sunset. Out Friday—creative stamps, Tokyo postmark, thick card. Thanks postcard club—some 7 years, hundreds. Main channel episode 125k views—check it.

39:54 John Daub: Interesting shop—matcha ice cream confections. Ningyocho does well. Yugu for fishermen's wives—flash to sea for husbands. Local tale—grain of salt. Manjiro episode best doc—Hawaii, Mass., 8K. Postcard meaningful. Sweet Tenga Shrine, neko matatabi (catnip) at Hakozaki. Thanks for watching—comments below. See you soon.