Only in Japan Go — Transcripts
Summaries + full diarized transcripts
2025-02-03 · Ep 1789 · 29m

Tokyos Jimbocho Street View and Neighborhood

TokyoStreet walkBookstoresCafesPublishing history
Summary

Tokyos Jimbocho Street View and Neighborhood

Overview

In this episode, John Daub takes viewers on a nostalgic and informative walking tour of Jimbocho, one of Tokyo's most culturally rich neighborhoods. Known globally as a hub for used bookstores, Jimbocho is also a historic center for publishing houses, including Shueisha, where John worked early in his career. The walk begins at Jimbocho Station, weaving through retro alleyways filled with old-school cafes that have survived since before World War II.

John highlights the unique blend of literary history and culinary delights found in the area, particularly the famous Indian curry rice spots and affordable lunch sets at local kissaten (coffee shops). He points out landmarks like the Tokyo Dome in the distance and the nearby Imperial Palace, explaining how the neighborhood's layout influenced the development of nearby Akihabara as a manga center.

The video serves as both a travel guide and a personal reflection on how Tokyo changes while preserving pockets of history. John shares practical tips on escalator etiquette, lunch pricing, and where to find the best atmosphere for business meetings or solo dining. It's a love letter to the alleys of Jimbocho, urging viewers to explore beyond the main streets before these historic blocks disappear to modernization.

Highlights

  • 00:00:02 John introduces Jimbocho Station and his past connection to Shueisha.
  • 00:01:12 Explanation of escalator etiquette and no-walking promotion in Tokyo.
  • 00:02:50 View of Tokyo Dome and discussion on Jimbocho's curry rice fame.
  • 00:04:44 Tour of Sabōru Cafe and its affordable lunch menu.
  • 00:06:36 Inside look at retro cafes and the vibe of Jimbocho alleys.
  • 00:10:48 Visit to La Dorio, inventor of wiener coffee in Japan.
  • 00:14:29 Map overview showing proximity to Imperial Palace and Meiji University.
  • 00:16:20 Walk down the main street lined with iconic old bookstores.
  • 00:18:53 Story about passing fellow YouTuber Jason Vong at this intersection.
  • 00:20:24 Observation on phone booths remaining for earthquake safety.
  • 00:26:11 Closing thoughts on electric scooters and future walk ideas.

Timeline / Chapters

  • 00:00:02 Intro at Jimbocho Station (Mita/Hanzomon/Shinjuku Lines).
  • 00:01:12 Exiting Station Exit 7 and escalator etiquette.
  • 00:02:50 Shueisha HQ view and Tokyo Dome landmark.
  • 00:04:44 Sabōru Cafe lunch recommendations.
  • 00:06:36 Exploring the retro alleyways.
  • 00:10:48 La Dorio Cafe and wiener coffee history.
  • 00:14:29 Geographic context (Imperial Palace, universities).
  • 00:16:20 Main street bookstores and ramen shops.
  • 00:20:24 Street details: Kokeshi dolls and phone booths.
  • 00:26:11 Outro and future walk plans.

Japan Travel Tips

  • Escalator Etiquette: While people often stand on the left and walk on the right in Tokyo, official promotion now encourages standing still on escalators for safety.
  • Lunch Deals: Look for local cafes like Sabōru for set meals (teishoku) around 980–1,150 yen. They often close early (e.g., 2 p.m.).
  • Book Hunting: Jimbocho is famous for used books, but most are in Japanese. Great for decor or collectors.
  • Ramen Shops: Quick turnover establishments; eat quickly and leave unless drinking beer.
  • Navigation: Jimbocho is central; you can walk to Akihabara in 20 minutes or Tokyo Dome in 15.
  • Connectivity: Public phone booths still exist throughout Japan for earthquake emergencies; keep a phone card handy.

Japanese Language & Culture Notes

  • Ōmori (大盛り): Means "big serving." Often available for an extra fee (e.g., 250 yen) at cafes.
  • Shōgayaki (生姜焼き): Ginger pork. A staple lunch item in Japanese cafes. Shōga means ginger.
  • Kissaten (喫茶店): Traditional Japanese coffee shops, often retro, serving light meals and coffee.
  • Meibutsu (名物): Local specialties or famous products of a region.
  • Matane (またね): Casual way to say "See you later."
  • Publishing District: Jimbocho's concentration of publishers influenced Akihabara's shift from electronics to manga/anime culture.
  • Earthquake Preparedness: Public phone booths are maintained as backup communication during disasters.

Food & Drink Guide

  • Curry Rice (カレーライス): Jimbocho is famous for this, likely due to the nearby Indian Embassy. Available at many cafes.
  • Shōgayaki Set (生姜焼きセット): Ginger pork lunch set. John recommends this at Sabōru. Massive portion, around $7 USD.
  • Wiener Coffee (ウインナーコーヒー): Coffee topped with hand-whipped cream. La Dorio claims to have invented this style for Japan in the 1930s. Price: 650 yen.
  • Napolitan (ナポリタン): Japanese-style spaghetti with ketchup-based sauce. Often paired with curry at cafes.
  • Ebi Pilaf (エビピラフ): Shrimp pilaf, available as a lunch option at Sabōru.
  • Gapao (ガパオ): Thai stir-fried basil pork. Available as takeaway in the alleys (800 yen).

People

  • John Daub: Host and narrator. Former employee of Shueisha. Guides the walk with personal anecdotes.
  • Peter von Gomm: John's friend. Mentioned as having walked this intersection with John previously.
  • Jason Vong: Fellow YouTuber. Mentioned as having crossed paths with John and Peter here last year.
  • Shueisha Friend: Unnamed friend from John's former workplace. John is meeting them for lunch after the walk.

Key Takeaways

  • Jimbocho is a unique blend of publishing history, book culture, and retro cafe dining.
  • The neighborhood's layout and publisher presence directly influenced the rise of Akihabara as an anime/manga hub.
  • Many historic cafes and buildings remain in the alleys, offering affordable meals and a step back in time.
  • Tokyo is constantly changing, making these preserved blocks increasingly valuable and worth visiting soon.
  • Practical infrastructure like phone booths remains vital for disaster preparedness in Japan.

Notable Quotes

  • 00:00:02 "I used to work at a company called Shueisha, and they have offices just around here."
  • 00:01:12 "In Japan you stand on the left and walk on the right, but you're actually not supposed to walk on the escalators at all."
  • 00:04:44 "These are not chain cafes; these are better, all local cafes with history going back decades, some before World War II."
  • 00:06:36 "It's like going into a theme park, back in time."
  • 00:10:48 "This store invented wiener coffee for Japan in the 1930s."
  • 00:14:29 "Akihabara is perfectly positioned with manga companies, editors here, university nearby; a perfect storm."
  • 00:18:53 "In a digital world, feels good to be surrounded by them."
  • 00:20:24 "Phone booths still here because Japan is earthquake country; good backup with a phone card."
  • 00:26:11 "Tokyo is always changing, so I hope this block of shacks doesn't go away."

Related Topics

  • Akihabara Electric Town History
  • Tokyo Used Bookstores
  • Japanese Kissaten Culture
  • Shueisha and Manga Publishing
  • Tokyo Central Ward Walking Tours

Search Tags

#only-in-japan-go #tokyo #jimbocho #bookstores #cafes #curry #shueisha #manga #publishing #street-walk #winter #travel-tips #japanese-food #retro-cafe #chiyoda


Full Transcript

00:00:02 John Daub: Alright, we're at Jimbocho, one of the big stations in central Tokyo. I'm going to take you on a walk around this neighborhood, but first we've got to get out of the station. This is the Mita Line, but it's also connected with the Hanzomon Line and Toei Shinjuku Line. So we're going to exit 6 and 7. This neighborhood, I really love to come here. I used to work at a company called Shueisha, and they have offices just around here. There's a bunch of offices. It's a big publishing house. They publish manga like Shonen Jump, but I was working with their magazine department way back when. Now I get a chance to take you guys around this neighborhood.

00:01:12 John Daub: You know, in Japan you stand on the left and walk on the right, but you're actually not supposed to walk on the escalators at all. Just over the last few months, they've been promoting no walking. They even have restaurants inside the station. Exit 7 is the one we want. It is chilly here in Tokyo right now. I've got my jacket on. I'm bundled up quite a bit. A7 is my favorite because this leads you out right to where there's a bunch of alleys with cafes with histories going back a very long time. I've walked through here on a live stream before, but every time is different and things change all the time. And it is very popular for books, bargain hunting.

00:02:50 John Daub: We're at the top of the steps here. That's what it's like to leave the Tokyo Metro. Get to vending machine heaven. Over there is Shueisha's headquarters building, where I used to work years ago, another lifetime ago. This is the big intersection of Jimbocho and central Tokyo. You don't get more central than this, perhaps Otemachi and Tokyo Station. If you look straight ahead down the street, about 800 meters, three quarters of a mile, you can see the roller coaster. That's Tokyo Dome. The Indian Embassy is just down the street about one kilometer in Kudanshita, the next station. This area is famous not just for books, but also for Indian curry rice. I don't know why Jimbocho is so famous for curry, maybe because the Indian Embassy is right around here. There's a lot of restaurants catering to the publishing houses that are here, a lot of manga, anime. One of the reasons Akihabara became a manga central area is because it's close to here. Akihabara was not the manga center 25 years ago; it was more the electronics center, and it's evolved over time.

00:04:44 John Daub: This alley in the back of Exit 7, this is why I like to come here. These are not chain cafes; these are better, all local cafes with history going back decades, some before World War II. Some buildings were rebuilt, some renovated; this area was bombed pretty heavily. This one is called Sabōru. They have affordable lunch menus like beef curry and ebi pilaf for 980 yen. You can get a bigger portion, ōmori (big serving), for 250 yen more. I recommend this; it's still super cheap. This is the pork shōgayaki (ginger pork); shōga means ginger, thick cuts of pork with ginger flavor. It's incredible, like $7, massive, will fill you up, and you can get it as a set with coffee. They're open until 2 p.m. So if you're in Tokyo, come to a local cafe like this for lunch.

00:06:36 John Daub: Sabōru is really cool, and inside it looks just like you'd think, so special with character, an old retro telephone. They have English menus, but it doesn't matter; go for shōgayaki or curry rice. It's like going into a theme park, back in time. I love the alleys of Tokyo, especially Jimbocho. This is a new cafe, but it looks nice, a little darker inside, that's the Jimbocho alley feeling. This one's new too, the sushi shop; they're not catering to tourists. If you're going to Sabōru, just know shōgayaki or curry rice. The lunch options are amazing; it smells so good, curry in the air in the back alleys. There's a lot of bars and cafes, night cafes, because people finish work and want drinks with coworkers. There's a lot of history here.

00:09:03 John Daub: Meat and wine bar, places like that. Air to the Ron, a couple bucks if you buy a book. Let's take a look. My favorite cafe before we move to the main street: so much character in the alleys of Jimbocho. A lot of cafes have curry, sandwiches, good finger food, very tasty, business meetings. I had one here ten years ago about an idea that didn't work out, pitching to ANA Airlines.

00:10:48 John Daub: At the end of the street, the alleys keep going. Meron-ga is an old-school cafe, so old-school, but they've made a new one, maybe for safety. La Dorio, this is my favorite. I've had lunch here a dozen times, usually with friends. Chicken curry and Napolitan (spaghetti) for 1,150 yen. This store invented wiener coffee for Japan in the 1930s. They have pound cake, tea-flavored pound cake, chocolate, Basque cheesecake. Get the wiener coffee with hand-whipped cream for 650 yen, or blend coffee, Napolitan or chicken curry. The menu's easy, just two items. Inside probably unchanged, old brick bars, amazing character. That looks like a Thai restaurant. Takeaway for 800 yen: gapao (stir-fried basil pork), green curry, really good deal. The alley has an amazing vibe, so come to Jimbocho and eat in the alleys.

00:14:29 John Daub: If you look at the map, we're above the Imperial Palace, that big green spot. Jimbocho has the big intersection, offices for publishing houses, close to the Imperial Palace and Meiji University, so lots of students. Akihabara is perfectly positioned with manga companies, editors here, university nearby; a perfect storm. You can walk there in 20 minutes. The alleys of Jimbocho have so much personality. Tokyo is always changing, so I hope this block of shacks doesn't go away. That's one reason I'm here, the other to meet a friend from Shueisha for lunch. I did a Shonen Jump episode eight years ago, might do something else.

00:16:20 John Daub: Here on the main street. This is one of the more interesting intersections in Tokyo, old bookstores right here. Prices have gone up. A lot of old books, all in Japanese. Iconic one, kanji for sun. Ramen shops, quick takeaway; advice for tourists: go in, eat, get out. They keep prices low on turnover, don't linger unless drinking beer fast. Then go to a cafe. This shop used to have an old Edo-era map. A lot of old businesses, but some knocked down, like that big bookstore. From here is Ogawamachi, next stop before Akihabara, so close. Ogawamachi famous for camping and sports stuff; that's a massive sporting store, North Face, maybe Patagonia.

00:18:53 John Daub: For camera geeks, me and Peter von Gomm were walking this intersection last year and passed another YouTuber, Jason Vong [?]. We walked right by him; viewers recognized him later. Two ships crossing in the night, but daytime. Place always changing, major university over there, McDonald's been there forever for late-night eats. Let's walk down the street, show this side of Jimbocho. Lots of bookstores, books coming out onto the street. Pretty cool thumbnail shot; everybody knows Jimbocho is famous for books. In a digital world, feels good to be surrounded by them. Bookstores making a comeback, good thing. Meeting at 1 p.m. at Shueisha, don't want to be late.

00:20:24 John Daub: Another ramen place, halal beef noodles, looks tasty. Another old bookstore, big volumes, retro glass window like bubble era 1980s. None in English, but good for Japanese book library decorations. Big Mouth Cafe, big window on second floor for business meetings, nice view, five tables. Same place with alley entrance. Books cheap, 200-300 yen, like $1.50, inexpensive, some used, incomplete sets. Kokeshi (Japanese wood dolls), usually from Tohoku, funny on the street. Back to intersection, minute from Shueisha. These 200 yen books look old, Japanese famous things, meibutsu (local specialties) [?]. Cool for souvenirs, made in Japan. Phone booths still here because Japan is earthquake country; good backup with a phone card.

00:26:11 John Daub: Here we are, back where we started. Hope this was interesting. Next time, maybe walk to Tokyo Dome from Chidorigafuchi (cherry blossom walkway), crowded in sakura season, nice from Indian Embassy to British Embassy, or Kudan-shita to Jimbocho to Tokyo Dome. Pretty urban Tokyo. Retro tech like phones valuable; never know when you need it. Electric scooters everywhere, need driver's license, recommend helmet. Butcher shop restaurant I've been to. Good curry rice place down this alley, craft beer place too. Alleyways of Jimbocho really cool; walk around. Thanks for watching, see you next time. Matane (see you later). Pretty good with the time.

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