Tokyo Omotesando's Hidden History: Dojunkai Apartments 1927
Tokyo Omotesando's Hidden History: Dojunkai Apartments 1927
Overview
John Daub explores one of Tokyo's most overlooked historical landmarks—the surviving east wing of the Dojunkai Aoyama Apartments—standing inconspicuously next to the modern Omotesando Hills shopping complex. Built in 1927 by the Dojunkai (People's Welfare Association) company, this reinforced concrete building was one of Japan's first earthquake-resistant apartment complexes, constructed in direct response to the devastating Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923. The structure represents a pivotal moment in Japanese urban history: the shift from traditional wooden construction to modern, disaster-resistant architecture.
The video traces the complete arc of this site's story, from its revolutionary beginnings through its survival of WWII bombing to its controversial demolition in 2003 to make way for Omotesando Hills. John walks viewers through the narrow alleyways behind Omotesando Hills, revealing the ivy-covered remnant wing that somehow endured—despite being sandwiched between gleaming glass and concrete. He also ventures inside Omotesando Hills itself, discovering how the development has largely erased the Dojunkai's presence from its own narrative, much to his disappointment.
Beyond the Dojunkai, John unpacks the broader history of Omotesando itself—originally a ceremonial approach road to Meiji Shrine, once lined with Japanese black pines before being replanted with today's iconic zelkova trees. The video serves as both a historical documentary and a meditation on the tension between urban modernization and heritage preservation in Tokyo.
Highlights
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00:00:31 John explains how the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 destroyed Tokyo primarily through fire, prompting the construction of earthquake-proof concrete buildings like Dojunkai.
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00:01:34 Inside Omotesando Hills, John notes the building's striking glass structure designed by Tadao Ando, including his observation that a historical pillar from Dojunkai was likely removed.
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00:03:45 John questions the information desk staff at Omotesando Hills about Dojunkai remnants and receives no knowledge of the site's significance—a moment that clearly frustrates him.
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00:04:16 John shares vintage video footage showing what Dojunkai and Omotesando looked like approximately 25 years ago, including an elderly resident walking through the complex.
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00:06:26 The video highlights that Dojunkai's concrete construction helped it survive the WWII firebombing of Tokyo—a fate that destroyed most of the surrounding area.
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00:07:32 John walks viewers through the alleyways behind Omotesando Hills, showing the surviving Dojunkai wing up close with its original 1927 soil, steps, and ivy-covered walls.
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00:09:09 John reads from research notes: Dojunkai (Dojunkai = People's Welfare Association) was a humanist response to disaster, housing artists, professors, and writers in Bauhaus-inspired U-shaped courtyard apartments.
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00:10:16 John explains Omotesando's original function as the ceremonial approach to Meiji Shrine, originally planted with Japanese black pines before being replaced with today's zelkova trees.
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00:11:25 John self-corrects his pronunciation throughout the video, acknowledging the correct name is "Dojunkai" not "Dojunkan," and that the surviving structure is called a kan (wing/plaza).
Timeline / Chapters
00:00 — Introduction at the Dojunkai Wing John stands before the remaining Dojunkai east wing, built in 1927 as Japan's first earthquake-proof concrete apartment complex. He introduces the site's significance in the context of post-Great Kanto Earthquake urban development.
00:31 — Historical Context: Great Kanto Earthquake 1923 John explains how the 1923 earthquake destroyed Tokyo primarily through fires that followed the seismic shaking. This disaster prompted the construction of safe, reinforced concrete buildings.
01:02 — Omotesando Hills and Architectural Erasure Omotesando Hills opened in 2003–2006, replacing the Dojunkai complex. Designed by Tadao Ando, the modern glass shopping center now draws tens of thousands of tourists daily who walk past unknowingly. John notes that Dojunkai's original entrance pillar was likely removed.
01:34 — Inside Omotesando Hills John enters the shopping center, noting its minimalist design and the striking lack of shoppers. He observes that the building's basement may have once housed Dojunkai historical displays but finds nothing.
03:12 — Consulting the Staff John approaches Omotesando Hills' information desk to ask about Dojunkai remnants. The staff members have no knowledge of the site's history, deepening John's frustration about the erasure of this heritage.
03:45 — Vintage Video Footage John shares archival video showing Omotesando and Dojunkai as they appeared approximately 25 years ago, before demolition. The footage reveals ivy-covered facades, an elderly resident, and the building's lived-in character.
05:23 — The Spirit of Old Tokyo The vintage footage emphasizes how the Dojunkai site once embodied residential life in 1920s–1930s Tokyo, contrasting sharply with today's luxury retail and designer brands.
05:55 — Great Kanto Earthquake and Architectural Response Footage and narration explain how the 1927 Dojunkai was revolutionary—people felt safe inside these concrete structures after years of post-earthquake anxiety.
06:26 — Survival Through WWII The Dojunkai's reinforced concrete construction meant it survived the 1945 firebombing of Tokyo, unlike surrounding wooden structures. This fact underscores the building's resilience across nearly eight decades.
07:32 — Walking the Alleyways Behind Omotesando Hills John navigates the narrow passages beside Omotesando Hills, photographing the surviving Dojunkai wing up close. He notes 1927 soil, original steps, and ivy crawling up century-old walls. The building even survived the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake.
08:34 — Dojunkai's Meaning and Cultural Significance John reads research notes: "Dojunkai means People's Welfare. The apartments were a humanist response to disaster." The complex housed artists, professors, and writers, serving as a cultural hub. Its U-shaped Bauhaus-inspired courtyard design is highlighted.
09:42 — Omotesando's Sacred Origins John explains that Omotesando was the ceremonial approach road to Meiji Shrine—the "Shōnai-ji" (inner approach) of Tokyo. The trees were originally Japanese black pines, later replaced with zelkova trees after WWII.
10:16 — Modern Omotesando and Tourist Appeal John acknowledges that visitors to Tokyo will likely walk Omotesando for its fashionable back alleys, Instagram-worthy cafes, and the distinctive Harajuku aesthetic.
10:53 — Call to Appreciate Hidden History John encourages viewers to look beyond the shopping and fashion, to recognize what once stood where modern buildings now stand. He emphasizes that understanding history makes Japan come alive.
11:25 — Conclusion and Pronunciation Correction John corrects his mispronunciation throughout the video, clarifying "Dojunkai" and the meaning of kan (wing). He expresses hope for continued heritage preservation despite his disappointment with how Omotesando Hills has minimized the site's story.
Japan Travel Tips
- How to Get There: Take the Tokyo Metro to Omotesando Station (Ginza, Chiyoda, or Hanzomon lines). Exits A1 and A2 place you steps from the Dojunkai remnant wing.
- Best Time to Visit: Any season works, but spring (cherry blossom) and autumn (fall colors) enhance the walk along Omotesando's tree-lined avenue. Summer provides shade from the zelkova canopy.
- What to Look For: When walking past Omotesando Hills, step slightly to the side (near the A1/A2 exits) to glimpse the ivy-covered Dojunkai wing. Look for original 1927 architectural details—concrete walls, stepped foundations, and climbing vines.
- What to Know: The Dojunkai wing sits largely unnoticed between Omotesando Hills and the subway station. Visitors often walk right past it absorbed in shopping or sightseeing.
- Cost: Viewing the Dojunkai remnant is completely free. Omotesando itself is a public street. Omotesando Hills shopping is upscale; window shopping costs nothing.
- Tips for Foreigners: Use Google Maps or a translation app to locate "Omotesando Hills" and search nearby landmarks. Ask at the Omotesando Hills information desk about local history—but be prepared to do your own research, as staff may not know the Dojunkai story.
- Walking Route: Start at Omotesando Station, walk along Omotesando toward Meiji Shrine approach, then detour into the back alleys for cafes and fashion shops. The Dojunkai wing is visible from the main avenue near the A1/A2 exits.
Japanese Language & Culture Notes
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Dojunkai (同潤会): The Dojunkai was a housing welfare organization established after the Great Kanto Earthquake. The kanji 同 (dou/do) means "same/together," 潤 (jun/jun) means "moisture/benefit," and 会 (kai) means "association/society." The name translates to "People's Welfare Association" or "Mutual Aid Society."
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Omotesando (表参道): Literally "front shrine approach road." The kanji 表 (omote) means "front/surface," 参 (san) means "visit/pay respects," and 道 (dou/do) means "road/way." This was the ceremonial path leading worshippers to Meiji Shrine.
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Kan (館/ wing): The surviving structure is called a kan—meaning a building, wing, hall, or public space. John correctly notes that the development retained this kan (the east wing) of the original complex.
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Great Kanto Earthquake (大正12年/1923年): A magnitude 7.9 earthquake that devastated Tokyo and Yokohama. Over 100,000 people died. Most destruction came from the massive fires that followed, which burned unchecked due to broken water mains.
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Bauhaus Influence: The Dojunkai apartments featured modernist design principles inspired by the German Bauhaus school—emphasis on function over ornament, clean geometric forms, and communal living spaces.
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Heritage vs. Development Tension: The Dojunkai demolition in 2003 sparked public debate about urban heritage preservation. This case is often cited in discussions about Tokyo's rapid redevelopment and the trade-offs between modernization and historical continuity.
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Harp of the Alley (裏参道/ura-misesando): The modern term for the back streets parallel to Omotesando, now famous for trendy cafes, independent fashion, and the Harajuku aesthetic John mentions.
Food & Drink Guide
No food or drink items are featured in this video. However, the back alleys of Omotesando (often called Ura-Omotesando) that John references are known for:
- Specialty coffee shops and minimalist cafés
- Artisanal pastry and cake shops popular on social media
- International cuisine alongside traditional Japanese options
- The upscale dining options within Omotesando Hills (various restaurants and cafés)
People
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John Daub: Host and narrator. American who has lived in Japan for over 30 years, creator of Only in Japan Go. Provides personal reflections on walking past Dojunkai in his early years in Tokyo, expresses both appreciation for the surviving wing and disappointment at how its story has been minimized.
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Tadao Ando: Renowned Japanese architect who designed Omotesando Hills. Known for his minimalist concrete-and-glass aesthetic and mastery of natural light. John notes Ando's effort to preserve part of the Dojunkai structure within the new development.
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Dojunkai Residents (historical): The original inhabitants of the 1927 apartments included artists, university professors, and writers, making the complex a genuine cultural hub of pre-war Tokyo. An elderly woman (77 years old at time of filming vintage footage) is seen discussing her memories of the building.
Key Takeaways
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Disaster Drives Innovation: The Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 was a catalyst for Japan's modern earthquake-resistant architecture. Dojunkai represents the first wave of concrete construction that would define Japanese urban building codes.
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History Is Fragile in Tokyo: Dojunkai's near-complete erasure demonstrates how aggressively Tokyo redevelops. Only the east wing survived, and even inside Omotesando Hills, its story is largely untold.
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Concrete Survived What Wood Could Not: The Dojunkai's reinforced concrete construction allowed it to survive both subsequent earthquakes and the devastating firebombing of WWII. This material choice literally preserved lives.
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Omotesando Has Layers of History: The avenue began as a sacred imperial approach road, lined with different trees, serving a ceremonial function. It evolved into a fashionable residential area with apartments like Dojunkai, and now stands as an upscale retail destination.
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Small Remnants Matter: Even a single preserved wing can anchor a neighborhood's historical identity. John argues that noticing such details enriches the travel experience and connects visitors to the deeper story of place.
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Questions Spark Discovery: John's willingness to ask Omotesando Hills staff about Dojunkai—despite their ignorance—highlights that heritage education is often incomplete. Travelers who dig deeper uncover the most fascinating stories.
Notable Quotes
00:00:31 John Daub: "Concrete of course is much better than wood, which is what they were made of back in the Taisho era and the early Showa era buildings were still made of wood. So this building is all that remains."
00:01:02 John Daub: "Tens of thousands of tourists walk by this every single day and don't actually realize the significance of Omotesando Hills."
00:04:46 John Daub: "Now it's all about money, luxury, designer goods, fashion. Back then, it's where people lived, you know."
00:06:58 John Daub: "More than the bombing were the fires of Tokyo as a result of the bombing. It's a lot of history here."
00:09:09 John Daub: "Dojunkai means People's Welfare. The apartments were a humanist response to the disaster. The controversy of the demolition led to wider debates in Japan about urban heritage preservation and versus commercial development."
00:09:42 John Daub: "Housed artists, professors and writers. A cultural hub in pre-war Tokyo."
00:10:16 John Daub: "Omotesando which is considered the Shōnai-ji of Tokyo. Originally lined with Japanese black pines. Later replaced with the now iconic zelkova trees."
00:10:53 John Daub: "If you do, I think you might want to pay a little bit more attention to this building and kind of feel that old Tokyo history, because I think it makes the city and the country of Japan come alive."
00:11:25 John Daub: "The preservation of the city, I think, is very important, and sometimes I think the city loses sight of that."
Related Topics
- Only in Japan Go: Tokyo historical walks and hidden history explorations
- Pre-war Japanese architecture and the influence of European modernism (Bauhaus)
- Tokyo's Great Kanto Earthquake aftermath and urban rebuilding
- Heritage preservation debates in modern Japan
- Tadao Ando's architectural philosophy and Omotesando Hills design
- Omotesando and Harajuku urban evolution
- Japan's earthquake engineering history
- Japanese shopping street culture (shotengai and modern retail districts)
- Sacred approaches and shrine roads in Tokyo
Search Tags
#only-in-japan-go #tokyo #omotesando #dojunkai #dojunkai-apartments #tokyo-history #heritage-preservation #earthquake-proof-architecture #tadao-ando #omotesando-hills #meiji-shrine #prewar-tokyo #great-kanto-earthquake #modernist-architecture #bauhaus #japan-architecture #urban-history #tokyo-urban-planning #hidden-tokyo #tokyo-walking #japanese-history #shibuya #aoyama #tokyo-off-the-beaten-path #japan-travel-tips #tokyo-shrine-approach #1920s-japan #concrete-architecture #tokyo-heritage
Full Transcript
00:00:00 John Daub: Welcome to Tokyo. That building right behind me is the whatever's left of the Dojunkan apartment complex that was built in 1927. It's the first earthquake proof concrete building. Following the Great Kanto earthquake that destroyed so much of Tokyo. In 1926 and 27, the Dojukan Company started to build a bunch of complexes around Tokyo in concrete which would withstand the earthquakes that would come in Tokyo. After a big one does occur, the cities usually react.
00:00:31 John Daub: This is what they did. They built these really massive concrete apartment buildings that would be able to stand withstand strong earthquakes and the fires, which is what really destroyed Tokyo. Not so much the earthquake as much as the fires that came after it. Concrete of course is much better than wood, which is what they were made of back in the Taisho era and the early Showa era buildings were still made of wood. So this building is all that remains.
00:01:02 John Daub: And in 2003 and to 2006 they built what you see here, which is Omotesando Hills. Tens of thousands of tourists walk by this every single day and don't actually realize the significance of Omotesando Hills because all you see is a shopping center that nobody goes. To be honest, Omotesando Hills is not really a popular shopping mall. I'll show you what's inside there. Let's look at some of the history though. It really is fascinating. So I did go inside of the Omotesando Hills here.
00:01:34 John Daub: Let me play this video. You can see the structure of the Omotesando Hills made of glass, very modern. The designer Ando San is there. And actually right there at the entrance of Multisando Hills back when they first built it, I'm pretty sure there used to be a pillar that was remaining right there where that Chloe is. There used to be a pillar from the old Dojukan apartment complex. I guess they removed it. Another example of how they've minimalized the history of it.
00:02:06 John Daub: Here's the backside of it so you can get more of a feel the, the trees, the old avenues of the back streets of Multisando. There are actually I believe, 38 high super luxury apartments inside of here that are very minimalist, but they're very expensive which makes them luxury. There's a walk through to the main avenue over there, but it's still covered in ivy the way that it was back in the Showa era. So you get kind of that feel on the backside of the Multisando Hills.
00:02:37 John Daub: Although that's a new building but. But you can see what's circled there. What was once a pillar that I guess they've taken it out inside of Omotesando Hills. You can see like, there's no point. The first thing is that it's really nice inside. But the second thing that you notice is like, there's nobody inside shopping here. I've been going in and out of Omotesando Hills for decades, and quite often I don't see people in here buying anything. So I don't even know how the building, the businesses stick in business.
00:03:12 John Daub: And I heard that in the basement they had some sort of photo display showing the history of Dojunkan and the apartment complex. I didn't find anything down there. So another example of how. I think that they've really minimalized the history here. And that's super sad to me because the history really makes the city come alive. I even asked the information ladies at the at the entrance of Omotesando Hills, and I said, what? Are there any remnants of the old Dojunkan besides the wing right here?
00:03:45 John Daub: And they said, nope, we don't know. I don't think they'd ever heard about that pillar. I guess they removed it in the early 2000s, I don't know. But it kind of rubbed me the wrong way knowing that all of the past, except for this wing here, is gone. It is a beautiful wing, though. I want to show you a video I found on YouTube and kind of react to it. This video is quite old, but it shows what Omotesando used to look like back in, I don't know, like 25 years ago.
00:04:16 John Daub: There was that old building called Dojunkan. I walked by it in my first five, four, five years living here in Tokyo or living in Japan. When I walked through Omotesando Hills, I remember walking past this. It looked kind of abandoned to me. It was a really old apartment complex. This is the old site of what is now hills covered in ivy. I don't know if it was an ice or not, but people still lived in there. That's what it looked like from street level.
00:04:46 John Daub: And today it looks very much different, like glass and steel. Got another section, Another section of the video here. From the top of this video showed the top of Dojunkan, the old apartments. You can feel that 1920s, 1930s Japan. The way that people were living here 25 years ago, like this, which is crazy to me, because now it's all about money, luxury, designer goods, fashion. Back then, it's where people lived, you know. And this lady was 77 at the time, and she's talking about coming in here, I'll see if I can link a description in here.
00:05:23 John Daub: But there's no English to it. It's all in Japanese. The street itself, including these trees, are the same. They're a lot bigger now. But you can see the old Dojunkan apartment building. Earthquake proof, also covered in ivy. It had kind of an almost abandoned feel, which I guess this is one reason why the city of Tokyo might have taken it out and turned it into a Motesando Hills. But there was a lot of people that were against that wanted to retain the old charm of Tokyo.
00:05:55 John Daub: And now Motesando Hills is like a shining example of modern, modern Tokyo. I, I kind of, I, I was, I was here when Dojunkan was here. So for me there's some history to it and I kind of have a lot of respect. You can see there's the great, Great Kanto earthquake in 1923. A lot of things were destroyed. You can see the fire is really what destroyed most of this stuff. The building's made of like mud and wood and things like that. And then they built this in 1927.
00:06:26 John Daub: It was brand new then. It was kind of a big deal. It looked real nice for 1927, doesn't it? But it was made of cement and people felt safe in here because you could see. Here's a resident from back then. People didn't feel really safe for a long time after the Great Kanto earthquake. So they really wanted to be in safer buildings. So these earthquake buildings were very important. And then when World War II hit, because this building was made of cement, not all of them were.
00:06:58 John Daub: A lot of shacks had gone up here. World War II did not destroy the Dojunkan here in Omotesando, the bombing of Tokyo, most of the stuff was completely destroyed, but Dojunkan remained because of that cement. So a lot of the buildings that were reinforced during the Great Kanto earthquake survived the fires. More than the bombing were the fires of Tokyo as a result of the bombing. It's a lot of history here. And today you can see Dojunkan, right? Whatever is left of it is very much representative of the old structure.
00:07:32 John Daub: I'm gonna walk around it now. You can take a look at it. You can kind of. There's a modern toilet right here in multisando. And the A1 and A2 exits of a multisando subway station is in this direction. Walking through the alley here, you can see the old ivy crawling up this hundred year old building. In a couple of years, it'll be celebrating 100 years. Surviving the great Tohoku earthquake in 2011 as well. That was pretty strong. Here's the backside of it.
00:08:03 John Daub: And you can see the difference in the architectural style. But at the time, Ando, who is the designer of Omotesando Hills, really wanted to find a way to protect it. So it's between. This is also part of the Multisando Hills and that one is. So they made sure they kept part of it intact because again, it was quite significant building. You can even see like there's old soil from 19. Is that from 1927? I guess so. And then you can see the steps here also from 1927.
00:08:34 John Daub: As well. There's a lot, a lot of history here. It's a little bit of the history replaced the Monte Sando Hills. It's a used glass concrete, natural lighting from modern urban canyon. I'm not a really big. It's a reinterpretation. I'm not a big fan of the Multisando hills here. Dojunkan. Dojunkai means people's welfare. And the apartments were a humanist response to the disaster. The controversy of the demolition led to wider debates in Japan about urban heritage preservation and versus commercial development.
00:09:09 John Daub: It was one of the big losses of old Japan at the time. Post World War II, many locals still call this the old Dojunkai Apartments. So I guess it's Dojunkai instead of Dojunkan. Maybe I'm getting that wrong here. The Internet will correct me. The Dojunkai aoyama Apartments. In 1927 it was built one of Japan's first reinforced concrete apartment complexes. U shaped Courtyard design, communal gardens. 28 low rise units with thick concrete walls. Inspired by European Bauhaus and modernist ideals.
00:09:42 John Daub: Housed artists, professors and writers. A cultural hub in pre war Tokyo Withstood the World War II bombing. Survived till the early 2000s. Demolished in 2003. I remember that being in the news. Everyone was talking about it. Yeah. And you know Omotesando itself has a history. Right. It was the front approach road to Meiji Shrine. So that's why the trees are here. This is supposed to be the approach road to Meiji Shrine. So it is a significant road, a multisando which is considered the Shonji le z of Tokyo.
00:10:16 John Daub: Originally lined with Japanese black pines. Later replaced with the now iconic zelkova trees. Post World War II. So the trees were different back then. That's interesting. I didn't know that. Served as a ceremonial procession route and symbolic approach to imperial modernity. So there's a little bit of insight into here. I think if you are coming to Tokyo, you're probably going to come to Omotesando, because the back alleys, they have all of the fashionable instagramable donut shops and cake shops and cafes and satellite shops for unusual fashion.
00:10:53 John Daub: That Harajuku look, you're probably gonna be walking up and down this road. So if you do, I think you might want to pay a little bit more attention to this building and kind of feel that old Tokyo history, because I think it makes the city and the country of Japan come alive. If you just understand a little bit of what was once where you're standing right now. I have a lot of appreciation for that. Thanks, everybody, for watching. If you have any questions, leave in the comments below.
00:11:25 John Daub: If you want to correct me for saying Don Jun Kan a thousand times, it's Donjun Kai. It says just Don Jun Kai. Khan, I think, is this building, which is now Khan, meaning like a plaza or wing or something that's changed. But I'm glad that they've remained. This building remains, and you can still see some of the old Tokyo. The preservation of the city, I think, is very important, and sometimes I think the city loses sight of that. I'm glad that we didn't hear, but I am sad that they have really minimalized its history inside of there, what was once there 25 years ago when they completed this building.
00:12:06 John Daub: All right, guys, see you in the next live stream. Thanks for watching.