Only in Japan Go — Transcripts
Summaries + full diarized transcripts
2019-08-30 · Ep 522 · 1h 21m

Tokyo Midnight Food Adventure in Shinbashi

TokyoNightlifeStreet FoodVending MachinesShrines
Summary

Tokyo Midnight Food Adventure in Shinbashi

Overview

In this late-night livestream, John Daub explores the vibrant, sometimes chaotic streets of Shimbashi, Tokyo, just before and after midnight. Known as a hub for salarymen finishing work, Shimbashi transforms after dark into a network of narrow alleys filled with standing bars (tachinomi), izakaya, and hidden shrines. John navigates the area on his bicycle, showcasing the contrast between the modern Olympic countdown clocks and the lingering Showa-era atmosphere of the backstreets.

The adventure includes stops at vending machines for unique drinks, a visit to the hidden Karasumorijinja (crow forest shrine), and sampling late-night snacks like gyutan (beef tongue) onigiri from a convenience store. John shares observations on Tokyo's safety, the culture of drinking in public spaces, and the historical significance of Shimbashi as the original terminus of Japan's railway system. Throughout the stream, he interacts with viewers, answering questions about ramen, travel safety, and the changing vibe of Tokyo leading up to the 2020 Olympics.

Highlights

  • 00:00:04 John introduces Shimbashi Station and the iconic SL Steam Train meeting point.
  • 00:00:27 A monitor counts down the days to the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.
  • 00:03:04 Spotting a historical kissaten (old-fashioned coffee shop) with tin coffee cups.
  • 00:03:34 Discovering Pikachu mugicha (barley tea) at a vending machine.
  • 00:05:55 Walking through alleys that retain a Showa era feel.
  • 00:10:58 Visiting Karasumorijinja, a hidden shrine off the main street.
  • 00:20:42 Observing couples in the park and discussing office romance culture.
  • 00:31:20 Trying gyutan (beef tongue) onigiri from a convenience store.
  • 00:34:29 Watching the high-tech Eco-Cycle bicycle parking system.
  • 00:41:04 Highlighting Yakitori Marukin, one of the cheapest izakaya in Japan.
  • 00:47:07 Exploring restaurants under the Yamanote train tracks.
  • 00:54:34 Discussing Sushi Zanmai and aburi toro (blowtorched fatty tuna).
  • 01:08:23 Q&A on the best ramen spots in Japan.
  • 01:19:13 Closing thoughts on the community and upcoming channel changes.

Timeline / Chapters

  • 00:00 - Introduction at Shimbashi Station & SL Train
  • 00:27 - Olympics Countdown & Station Atmosphere
  • 03:04 - Historical Kissaten & Vending Machines
  • 05:55 - Exploring Showa Era Alleys
  • 10:58 - Karasumorijinja Shrine Visit
  • 16:28 - Convenience Store Food Hunt
  • 20:42 - Park Observations & Office Romance Stories
  • 31:20 - Eating Gyutan Onigiri
  • 34:29 - Eco-Cycle Bicycle Parking Demo
  • 41:04 - Cheap Izakaya & Standing Bars
  • 47:07 - Restaurants Under the Tracks
  • 54:34 - Sushi Zanmai & Late Night Safety
  • 01:08:23 - Viewer Q&A (Ramen, Travel, Coins)
  • 01:19:13 - Conclusion & Sign Off

Japan Travel Tips

  • Safety: Tokyo is voted one of the safest cities; even late at night in Shimbashi, John feels safe, though he advises keeping wits about you in crowded drinking areas.
  • Last Train: Many izakaya and bars close around midnight when the last trains depart. Plan accordingly or be prepared to stay out until morning.
  • Vending Machines: Great for hydration; look for unique drinks like Pikachu mugicha (barley tea) which is caffeine-free.
  • Standing Bars (Tachinomi): Affordable way to drink and eat; Yakitori Marukin offers all-you-can-drink beer for under $20.
  • Cash: Some smaller vending machines or older establishments may not accept IC cards (Suica/Pasmo); carry cash (yen notes).
  • Bicycle Parking: Use high-tech Eco-Cycle systems if available; they store bikes underground automatically.
  • ATMs: 7-Eleven ATMs accept foreign cards for cash withdrawal.

Japanese Language & Culture Notes

  • Shimbashi (新橋): Means "new bridge." The original bridge lost its meaning when the river dried up, but the name stuck.
  • Era Names: John references the transition from Showa (64 years) to Heisei (31 years) to Reiwa (current). Shimbashi alleys retain a Showa era feel.
  • Karasumorijinja (烏森神社): Literally "Crow Forest Shrine." A hidden shrine in the alleys where visitors can pay respects.
  • Kanpai (乾杯): The Japanese toast meaning "cheers."
  • Tare (タレ): Dipping sauce used for yakitori; sometimes garlicky and flavorful enough to drink (jokingly).
  • Keiban (警備): Security patrol; John notes seeing security guards watching over the area.
  • Chochin (提灯): Paper lanterns often found outside izakaya indicating food displays or entrance.

Food & Drink Guide

  • Pikachu Mugicha (130 yen): Barley tea featuring Pikachu branding; caffeine-free and hydrating. 00:03:34
  • Gyutan Onigiri (165 yen): Beef tongue rice ball from a convenience store; grilled flavor with crispy seaweed. 00:31:20
  • Kushikatsu: Deep-fried skewers from Osaka; mentioned as a favorite late-night option. 00:29:13
  • Tonkotsu Ramen: Pork bone broth ramen; John recommends Unari in Fukuoka or local spots in Sumida/Asakusa. 01:08:23
  • Aburi Toro: Blowtorched fatty tuna sushi; activates the fats for better flavor. 00:54:34
  • Beer: Sapporo Red Star, Asahi Superdry, and seasonal Autumn beers (higher alcohol content). 00:34:29
  • Horumon: Offal/intestines often grilled at izakaya. 00:47:07

People

  • John Daub: Host and guide. Exploring Shimbashi on a bicycle, interacting with viewers, and sharing cultural insights.
  • Kanae Daub: John's wife. Mentioned regarding recycling habits and how they met (office romance story).
  • Peter von Gomm (PVG): John's friend. Mentioned as someone who would do pull-up contests in the park.
  • Viewers: Cecil, Danny, Mark Snow, and others interact via chat, sending donations and questions.
  • Locals: Salarymen drinking in alleys, couples in the park, security guards (keiban), and bicycle parking attendants.

Key Takeaways

  • Shimbashi offers a unique mix of modern business infrastructure and nostalgic Showa-era drinking alleys.
  • Tokyo remains incredibly safe even late at night, though visitors should remain aware of their surroundings.
  • Convenience stores offer high-quality late-night food options like gyutan onigiri.
  • The 2020 Olympics anticipation was palpable in 2019 with countdown clocks and infrastructure changes.
  • Standing bars (tachinomi) provide an affordable and authentic way to experience Japanese drinking culture.

Notable Quotes

  • 00:00:57 "In these live streams, anything can happen. Anything at all."
  • 00:03:04 "They use tin or copper coffee cups—a nice contrast to Starbucks."
  • 00:08:17 "Authentic Japanese experience: get lost in the city like Bourdain, sit with locals."
  • 00:16:28 "Even if you fall from SkyTree, someone on Shibuya scramble would save you."
  • 00:27:02 "That's how I met Kanae."
  • 00:41:04 "Could drink the tare."
  • 01:08:23 "Support local over chains like Ichiran."

Related Topics

  • Tokyo Nightlife
  • Showa Era Nostalgia
  • Japanese Vending Machines
  • Salaryman Culture
  • Tokyo Olympics 2020
  • Convenience Store Food
  • Shrine Visits

Search Tags

#only-in-japan-go #tokyo #shimbashi #nightlife #streetfood #vendingmachine #showa #izakaya #travel #japan #midnight #safety #ramen #sushi #beer


Full Transcript

00:00:04 John Daub: Welcome to Shimbashi in central Tokyo, Minato Ward, one of the 23 wards. How you doing everybody? It's time for a midnight snack. Long time no see for this series. I'm in front of the old train, one of the most popular meeting points in all of Tokyo at Shimbashi Station.

00:00:27 John Daub: Over here there's a monitor counting down the days to the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, which is pretty exciting. There's the Paralympic mascot on a bike or wheelchair, getting ready. This is what the station looks like just before midnight. A lot of these people finished work, going home on one of the last trains. Most are slightly tipsy, which might happen to me if I'm not careful. In these live streams, anything can happen. Anything at all.

00:00:57 John Daub: I'm going to take you around Shimbashi, show some streets and alleys. It's a lot different during the day. We've done this live stream during the day on a hot day last summer. I've been to the vending machine corner down the street, Hibiya Park many times. We're going to one of the shrines, Karasumorijinja (crow forest shrine). I can't remember the name exactly, but it's in one of these alleys. We'll wrap around and get some food on the way. So buckle up, get some popcorn, hit that like button— the more likes, the longer the stream goes. Welcome to Shimbashi.

00:01:28 John Daub: Shimbashi is an interesting place. I'm filming horizontally, but it's more of a vertical city. It'd be better in Instagram mode. Looks like they're taking away things from an event in the plaza. That's Shimbashi Station, the backside. On the other side is Shiodome. That used to be where a river was. Shimbashi means new bridge. The river dried up, so the bridge doesn't have much meaning now. The old station opened in 1872, the original terminus to Tokyo—not Tokyo Station. From Shimbashi, you went all over Japan by rail.

00:03:04 John Daub: This is a historical kissaten (old-fashioned coffee shop) on the second and third floor across from the station. Great for a good cup of coffee and Japanese culture. They use tin or copper coffee cups—a nice contrast to Starbucks. Let's go straight into the alleys.

00:03:34 John Daub: Following these people. Who knows, we might find food and build an appetite. This is the chain Miami Patio—you can sit outside. Be careful, not a lot of people want to be filmed at night. I've seen these vending machines before. We found Pikachu drinks here. They still have Pikachu mugicha (barley tea) for 130 yen. I might get that to stay hydrated. Other offerings: tomato juice next to Mountain Dew and Japan Cola, then Boss Coffee craft coffee that Tommy Lee Jones promotes. I can't taste the difference, but mugicha has no caffeine.

00:04:48 John Daub: I only have a 10,000 yen note. No Suica reader here. Completely unprepared. Doesn't take Suica. We're on the prowl again. Ramsey Silent chimed in for drink and food money—much appreciated. Last train might be gone. I came by bicycle. I live in central Tokyo now. Check this out—a standing bar. Pretty cool.

00:05:55 John Daub: Let's get some distance and wrap around. Last time I went down this alley. I love Shimbashi alleys at night—they keep that Showa era feel. Showa era was 64 years long. We finished Heisei (31 years) and now we're in Reiwa. Dudes drink outside with buddies. I'd spend time here with friends, cold drinks in the alley.

00:06:53 John Daub: Check that out—a yakitori bar in the alley. Standing outside with buddies after work, having a cold one. That's Shimbashi. If I had to pick a town for night, this is up there—cheap, fun, wider streets than Okachimachi and Ueno, more options. This is tonkotsu ramen, Hakata ramen spilling outside. People drinking, eating, now heading to the station.

00:08:17 John Daub: Cecil's in the house—wish I knew about this channel four years ago. You're gonna have fun in November. A lot's changed with Olympics coming—the vibe's more exciting. Shoutout to Danny from Canada. Looking forward to seeing you, maybe for a drink. I keep getting lost, wanted to take you to that shrine. Wow, pictures on the wall at this Chinese restaurant. Sports bar, Irish pubs here. This area back here is lost in time—family-run places, mamasan snack bars with old guys singing karaoke. Authentic Japanese experience: get lost in the city like Bourdain, sit with locals, share karaoke or beer and weird snacks like squid tentacles. Explore Shimbashi more, especially Friday night. But places close at midnight for the last train. Thankfully, I have a bicycle.

00:10:58 John Daub: PVG, Sascha—have a beer with me, thanks. Mark Snow caught the livestream. Student trips from New Jersey—exit 7A. Dollar for peach nectar, thanks. Gonna break this 10,000 yen at the conbini. These are places I came for NHK with Jennifer in 2009. Go in if it looks scary—just say sorry and escape. Sometimes they invite you in. This is Karasumorijinja (crow forest shrine), right off the main street like a hidden shrine. From FamilyMart by Yamanote platform, pay respects.

00:13:17 John Daub: Love the vibe. If you're in Tokyo, come share a drink in Shimbashi—Friday night. Shops closing up. They renovated the shrine a bit—beautiful, tucked in an alley. Good water here, I believe you can drink it. Showa era bathrooms were outside. This public restroom from Showa era—someone's using it. Shimbashi's vertical: look up at the wires, chaos above buildings. That's the personality. Now, the old 1970s New Shimbashi building—random cement pattern, unforgettable. Inside, gaudy Showa stuff leftover. Saw capsule toys with ladies' pants on fifth floor ten years ago for NHK.

00:16:28 John Daub: That ramen looks good but too crowded to film. Gotta-me so negi, tonkotsu, spicy miso—love karamiso ramen. Japan voted safest city yesterday. Even if you fall from SkyTree, someone on Shibuya scramble would save you. Keep your wits about you. Breaking this 10,000 yen note.

00:18:17 John Daub: Marble tofu with egg—featured before. Futon (beef tongue). Food that tastes you back. Line at rush hour. More healthy veggies now, colorful salads in cubes. Genki drinks.

00:20:42 John Daub: What are you looking at? Japanese Yankee—be careful. Intimidating shops, but go in without a camera. Shimbashi famous for body parts. Here's the park. Irish pub, Man in the Moon—many Irish pubs here. Used to be just The Hub, now pints. Empty space with track—school? People cross through. If Peter von Gomm was here, pull-up contest. Kanpai, drinking alone in the dark—creepy. People making out—jettison. Never see makeouts, but tonight. Drinking on this ride-on toy? Audience participation: 500 likes for drunk riding.

00:25:03 John Daub: 450 likes—close. Got kid in ichiban and beef tongue onigiri. Recycle responsibly, says Kanae Daub. Opens at 450, riding at 500. Click like. We hit it! Time to ride. Kanpai to all. Long time coming, this midnight snack run. Appreciate you joining.

00:27:02 John Daub: Kanae, if watching, sorry—this is crazy. Ride it to the station? Too dangerous. Six drunk people watching—run away. This park's where office romances start Friday night. Picture it: Monday, spot pretty girl at desk. Build rapport, lunch Wednesday, giggle, Friday bring her here. Seven or eight couples—same story started Monday. That's how I met Kanae.

00:29:13 John Daub: Onigiri feels wrong with people making out on playground. So Japan—deep Italian love like Naples PDA. PDF? Adobe document—sent some today. Better illuminated area. Osaka kushikatsu place—love it, from Shinsaibashi.

00:31:20 John Daub: Gyutan (beef tongue) onigiri, 165 yen—$1.50. Smells good. No pull tabs, but seaweed crispy. Beef tongue inside. Barbecue taste, grilled—nice. Cop watching—rent-a-cop, keiban (patrol). Bicycles in teeny parking booth—bike lift, eco-cycle. Stakeout waiting for one.

00:34:29 John Daub: Favorite beer? Started Kirin, to Sapporo, Asahi Superdry, back to Sapporo Red Star like Kanae's dad. Eco-cycle: bike comes up automatically—wild, high-tech. Interview the guy? He hoped a foreigner would. Live streaming—gotta be careful. Shimbashi nice but tough. Tokyo safest city, but midnight in makeout park—still feel safe, but careful. Guy depositing bike—conveyor belt, inventive.

00:38:05 John Daub: Park by New Shimbashi building. Past kushikatsu to Yamanote, curve around. 750 likes for original Shimbashi Station? Depends. Kushikatsu: ippon (one skewer) 50 yen, beer 380, highball 250, sour 280, oden 90, kushiyaki 80. Cheap—$20 gets you plowed and full. Thank you, Osaka. Moderation. Standing bars opening, alleys full of eats. Raindrops—might end early.

00:41:04 John Daub: Signs for everything. Wagyu restaurant, A5 marbling, golden meat. Tanuki izakaya—raccoon dog. Cheapest izakaya in Japan: Yakitori Marukin, second floor. Electronic beer pourer, all-you-can-drink, never over $20. Vials of tare (sauce) with garlic—dip everything. Could drink the tare.

00:44:25 John Daub: Places closing. To Yamanote tracks. 95-year-old woman ran hostess club—maybe still open. Slice of life through windows: chef cooking, people chowing. Vertical color, wires, old and new. Under tracks, tons of restaurants like gyoza chain. Capsule hotel. Neat spots under Yamanote. Shinidai sakana-ya oashi with chochin (lanterns), plastic food displays—point and order by number.

00:47:07 John Daub: Live stream? Watching 1000 people. Tokyo! Shinbashi! From America, Chiyoda, Japan's Chukyo [?]. New York? Greatest. Train okay? Yeah, bye. People friendly even drinking. 24-hour chain with English menus. Tachinomi standing bar, horumon (offal). 95-year-old hostess spot out of business. Anything can happen.

00:49:25 John Daub: No original station due to rain. This side to Shiodome, 1872 station, Ginza Lion, Yurikamome driverless monorail to Rainbow Bridge—sit in front. New Shimbashi building classic—don't get rid of it. Wander inside. Parking meters: 300 yen for 60 minutes, Suica soon. Friday night, everyone leaving—quiet morning. Saw passed-out people. Did Ginza livestream at 4:20 AM sunrise—ghost town, then bodies in alleys like zombie apocalypse.

00:54:34 John Daub: Streets clearing. Miracle Body drink? Pocari Sweat. For 700 likes, end of street bright lights. Building with restaurants by floor. Premium Moritsu beer 650 yen, wine 700. ATMs at 7-Eleven accept foreign cards. Hub point card expired after decade—20,000 yen gone. Sushi Zanmai 24-hour, aburi toro (blowtorched fatty tuna) favorite—activates fats. Chutoro balance best. Eat responsibly—maguro overfished. Guy passed out, buddies pouring water—feel bad, but with friends.

01:00:17 John Daub: Shimbashi worth evening stroll—even without eating. Air very ichiban today. Bike still here—thank goodness. Taxis booked under tracks. New main channel: kaitenzushi special menu. Perfectionist—Sunday maybe. Last was blue ramen.

01:03:26 John Daub: Fried chicken? KFC night. Super dry or autumn beer? Autumn—6.5% alcohol vs 5.5%, same price, more bitter. Stronger for fall. Goodnight beer. Over 1200 watching. Last Yamanote trains. Live central Tokyo—bike home easy. Autumn drinks early, then Halloween, Christmas. 800 likes—proud of community. Closest to 1000.

01:08:23 John Daub: Kanpai. Ideas for next midnight run? Tried Hiroshima—shuts at 10 on weekdays, Hondori deserted. Taxis like mini English cabs, bigger for foreigners/Olympics. Roomier. Q&A: best ramen—Unari in Fukuoka tonkotsu, Asahikawa shoyu/shio with oil for cold winters. Support local over chains like Ichiran. Good Tokyo ramen in Sumida-machi, Asakusa-bashi, Kudanshita, Akihabara off-road. No more martial arts—low views. Patreon lets sensitive topics.

01:17:12 John Daub: Best udon Kagawa, Shikoku—not Tokyo. Enoshima whole island cool. 1 yen coins? Recycle. Blu-ray coming. Working on car manufacturers, more episodes September. Q&A Patreon Sunday. Where watching from? Global: UK, Australia, Philippines, Seoul, Netherlands, Chicago, Burkina Faso, Romania, etc. No Antarctica yet.

01:19:13 John Daub: Thanks for great midnight run. No more trains—last Yamanote. Sunday morning livestream idea. End of summer—thanks. New channel September, animated opening, 150k+ subs. 360 channel next. Discord 2500 free members. Walking past toasted folks—respect privacy. Bye everybody, good night.

Related Episodes