Osaka Street Food Takoyaki Binge
Osaka Street Food Takoyaki Binge
Overview
In this episode, John Daub returns to the iconic Dotonbori district in Osaka, accompanied by fellow expat and content creator Kevin Reilly (Kuma's Kitchen). Filmed in late December 2019, the video captures the vibrant, neon-lit atmosphere of Osaka's most famous entertainment district during the holiday season. John and Kevin explore how Dotonbori has transformed over the past 20 years, shifting from a local hangout to a heavily tourist-focused zone.
The primary mission is a takoyaki (octopus balls) binge, though John quickly notes that the quality in the main tourist strip has declined compared to local neighborhoods. Along the way, they sample gyoza (dumplings), discuss the upcoming Expo 2025, and share insights on Japanese New Year traditions like hatsumode (first shrine visit) and ringing temple bells 108 times. The journey concludes with a visit to a hidden gem, the Mossman Jizo shrine, and a late-night ramen stop at Hanamaruken, showcasing the deeper layers of Osaka beyond the main drag.
Highlights
- 00:00:05 John introduces the location at Dotonbori River with Kevin Reilly.
- 00:01:11 John admits the takoyaki in Dotonbori is not very good compared to elsewhere.
- 00:02:19 Kevin notes the Glico Man sign is now an LED screen instead of neon.
- 00:11:26 Walking past Kani Doraku and discussing changes like Starbucks and Tsutaya arriving.
- 00:14:27 Trying original gyoza for 240 yen; staff no longer speak Japanese due to tourism.
- 00:17:29 Explaining Japanese New Year's Eve traditions vs. Western countdown parties.
- 00:23:24 Reviewing the gyoza texture and flavor balance.
- 00:30:02 Watching takoyaki being made; noting the shift to Asian tourists since 2017.
- 00:40:26 The takoyaki binge begins; fifth tray consumed.
- 00:44:27 Cutting into the hanjuku onsen tamago (half-boiled hot spring egg) takoyaki.
- 00:52:55 Finding the secret Mossman Jizo shrine away from tourists.
- 00:58:17 Visiting Hanamaruken for 24-hour ramen and free kimchi.
- 01:05:40 Celebrating 70 minutes of streaming with a beer kanpai (cheers).
- 01:08:16 Advice on finding better takoyaki by checking octopus size.
- 01:19:18 Closing remarks and holiday wishes from Dotonbori River.
Timeline / Chapters
- 00:00:00 Intro at Dotonbori River with Kevin Reilly
- 00:02:00 Crossing Ebisubashi and discussing tourism changes
- 00:10:00 Walking down Dotonbori alley; Kani Doraku and Starbucks
- 00:14:00 Eating Gyoza; staff language changes
- 00:17:00 New Year's Eve traditions and shrine visits
- 00:30:00 Takoyaki preparation and tourist demographics
- 00:44:00 Eating Takoyaki with Onsen Tamago
- 00:52:00 Exploring back alleys and Mossman Jizo
- 00:58:00 Late night Ramen at Hanamaruken
- 01:05:00 Beer celebration and viewer interactions
- 01:19:00 Outro and holiday greetings
Japan Travel Tips
- Takoyaki Quality: Avoid the main tourist strips in Dotonbori for the best takoyaki. Look for places where the octopus pieces are visible and large. Recommended spots include Takohachi or areas like Shinsekai.
- New Year's Eve: Japanese people typically do not hold countdown parties. Instead, they visit shrines or temples for hatsumode (first visit) and listen to bells ring 108 times at midnight.
- Dotonbori Changes: The area has become significantly more tourist-heavy since 2017. Many staff in main street shops no longer speak Japanese due to the volume of foreign visitors.
- Late Night Food: For authentic late-night eats, venture into the back alleys of Namba or visit 24-hour shops like Hanamaruken for ramen.
- Expo 2025: Osaka is preparing for Expo 2025, which will bring further changes to the city infrastructure.
- Gyoza: Street-side gyoza stands offer quick, affordable meals (around 240 yen) with a crispy bottom and soft top.
Japanese Language & Culture Notes
- Takoyaki (たこ焼き): Ball-shaped snacks made of wheat flour-based batter, cooked in a special moulded pan. Filled with minced octopus, tempura scraps, pickled ginger, and green onion.
- Hatsumode (初詣): The first shrine or temple visit of the New Year. Often done immediately after midnight on New Year's Eve or during the first few days of January.
- Kohaku Uta Gassen (紅白歌合戦): A popular annual TV music show broadcast on New Year's Eve by NHK, featuring teams of male and female singers.
- Kanpai (乾杯): The Japanese word for "cheers" when drinking.
- Otsukaresama (お疲れ様): A phrase meaning "thank you for your hard work," often used among colleagues or friends after an activity.
- Jizo (地蔵): Statues of a Buddhist deity who protects travelers and children. The Mossman Jizo is covered in moss due to its damp, hidden location.
- Seishun 18 Kippu (青春18きっぷ): A discounted train ticket pass available during specific seasons, allowing unlimited travel on local JR lines. John mentions using it years ago to travel from Nagoya to Osaka just for coffee.
Food & Drink Guide
- Takoyaki (Octopus Balls): 00:30:02 The main focus. John notes quality varies; Dotonbori tourist spots are often inferior. Look for golden brown exterior and visible octopus.
- Hanjuku Onsen Tamago Takoyaki: 00:44:27 Takoyaki topped with a half-boiled egg. John cuts into it to reveal a runny yolk.
- Gyoza (Dumplings): 00:14:27 Sold at a street stand for 240 yen. Described as soft on top, crunchy on bottom, with good negi (green onion) and nira (garlic chives).
- Ramen: 00:58:17 At Hanamaruken. Features free kimchi and egg. Chiaiwa-se ramen (happiness ramen) mentioned with juicy chashu (pork).
- Beer: 01:05:40 Consumed at a standing bar or izakaya. Frosty mugs used for kanpai.
- Melon Pan (Melon Bread): 00:34:55 Mentioned regarding a sign where the bread bites itself. Some have custard inside.
- Kushikatsu: 00:37:00 Deep-fried skewers. Kushikatsu Daruma is a famous chain originating in Shinsekai.
People
- John Daub: Host of Only in Japan Go. American living in Japan for 30+ years. Guides the tour, provides historical context, and samples the food.
- Kevin Reilly: Guest. American living in Osaka, creator of Kuma's Kitchen. Instagram handle @OsakaReilly. Joins John for the walk, provides local insights, and shares hiking expertise.
- Yako: Viewer from Finland working as an engineer in Osaka. Appears briefly for a selfie.
- Michael and Chen: Viewers mentioned by John as watching the stream in the background.
Key Takeaways
- Dotonbori has changed drastically in 20 years, becoming much more tourist-oriented and less authentic.
- The best takoyaki is often found outside the main tourist strips; check for visible octopus pieces.
- Japanese New Year's Eve is traditionally spent at shrines or temples, not at parties.
- Hidden gems like Mossman Jizo exist just steps away from the crowded main streets.
- Osaka locals have a distinct sense of humor and culture compared to Tokyo (more relaxed about filming, etc.).
Notable Quotes
- 00:01:11 "I've come here to eat takoyaki, and I think I made a big mistake. The takoyaki here is not very good."
- 00:02:32 "We're going to cross Ebisubashi into the lion's den where all the non-locals are."
- 00:05:36 "Everyone in Tokyo is serious. If you want permission to film, they say no. Here they're like, okay, do it quickly and get out."
- 00:13:25 "I rode it too—24 hours round trip for coffee."
- 00:17:29 "Japanese don't do countdown parties; go to temple, ring bell 108 times at midnight."
- 00:23:24 "Gyoza soft on top, crunchy bottom, good negi and nira balance. Slightly burned—love it."
- 01:00:06 "Don't need Dotonbori—Shinsekai better old Osaka. Old entertainment district now food."
Related Topics
- Osaka Street Food Guide
- Japanese New Year Traditions
- Dotonbori History and Changes
- Takoyaki Making Process
- Expat Life in Osaka
Search Tags
#only-in-japan-go #osaka #dotonbori #takoyaki #street-food #travel-vlog #kevin-reilly #kumas-kitchen #christmas #new-year #gyoza #namba #japan-travel #foodie #nightlife
Full Transcript
00:00:05 John Daub: Here we are in Dotonbori in Osaka. Check it out. This is the amazing side of the Dotonbori River where the lights are. And there's that massive Asahi Super Dry neon light up there. And you know who this is. This is Kevin Reilly, of course, Kuma's Kitchen. Check him out on Instagram, Osaka Reilly. I'll put a link in the description.
00:00:31 John Daub: We are here just for a day, sort of to visit Kevin, but also because we're filming an episode for the Only in Japan channel. And it's on takoyaki (octopus balls). I've come here to eat takoyaki, and I think I made a big mistake. The takoyaki here is not very good. Dotonbori is not the place anymore for takoyaki. It's still nice to be here. But if we didn't come here to try it and learn that it stinks, you wouldn't know you can get better takoyaki elsewhere.
00:01:11 John Daub: But what are we going to do in this live stream? Go eat some takoyaki. This is what you subscribe for. Hit subscribe for live streams all around Japan with really interesting content like takoyaki in Osaka. This is Ebisu-bashi (Ebisu Bridge), very famous when the Hanshin Tigers win. People jump into the river, naked. The last time they won was about 20 years ago. It doesn't happen often, but every now and then some idiot jumps in, police come, big commotion.
00:02:19 Kevin Reilly: The Glico Man has changed. If you haven't been here in a while, he's an LED screen now instead of neon lights. He circles the world without moving his legs. It's pretty unique.
00:02:32 John Daub: It's so bright here, almost like daylight. We're going to cross Ebisubashi into the lion's den where all the non-locals are. Everybody's a tourist here, Kevin. This is so different from 20 years ago. Back then, hardly any foreigners. This bridge was famous for picking up guys and girls. In Osaka, girls pick up guys. Those little girls are very straightforward.
00:03:23 John Daub: But this has changed a lot. I preferred the neon light version from a decade ago. Now it's okay, so bright and theme parkish. They used to compare it to Blade Runner. Now it's going towards Shinsaibashi-suji (Shinsaibashi shopping arcade). It's so crowded, takes forever to go down. The first time I came to Ebisubashi, I remember standing in the middle. That building has changed. There used to be a Haagen-Dazs over there.
00:04:46 John Daub: The Dotonbori River is very narrow. Lots of cruise boats go back and forth showing Osaka attractions. Have you ever taken one? I did an NHK report eight years ago. It was fun; the guide gives insight into Osaka culture. They point and bang like this, and locals pretend to fall down—Osaka has a big sense of humor.
00:05:36 Kevin Reilly: We're popular in places like Tokyo for our comedy trips. Everyone in Tokyo is serious. If you want permission to film, they say no. Here they're like, okay, do it quickly and get out.
00:06:07 John Daub: But we're going to get some takoyaki. We've come for street food. Click thumbs up so YouTube pushes this. I'm still doing a midnight snack run later, bringing you back to Ebisubashi in two or three hours for street food. Because Kevin's here, taking you while the street's awake. Around 11 it gets quieter.
00:06:55 John Daub: This would be like Shibuya. Kevin just came back from hiking—that's why he looks like he was in Apocalypse Now. 2025 is for Expo 2025 here in Osaka. We had one in 1970 up north.
00:07:36 Kevin Reilly: That's because we're having Expo 2025 in Osaka. I don't know where yet.
00:08:01 John Daub: Kevin takes people hiking—he knows trails in Nara, Wakayama. He's the king of Osaka. Hard to miss a tall dude with a beard. Big shoutout to Top Shelf.
00:09:42 Kevin Reilly: Yeah, hit me up for tours.
00:10:15 John Daub: This 2025 is where you find everybody. That massive TV is so high. Funny story: when we first came in 1996, girls cheering facing this way—we thought stars, but it was the TV.
00:10:48 Kevin Reilly: We come across the bridge, hear music, girls cheering at the TV.
00:11:26 John Daub: This alley's Dotonbori. There's Kani Doraku (Crab Pavilion) where I had crab brains—they're closed. This place hasn't changed much. But Starbucks and Tsutaya weren't here 20 years ago. This was Forever 21, now Yodobashi electronics. No Starbucks in Osaka back then except HEP 5 by Osaka Station. I took Seishun 18 Kippu (youth unlimited train ticket) from Nagoya for seven hours for one cup because I was homesick.
00:13:25 Kevin Reilly: I rode it too—24 hours round trip for coffee.
00:13:25 John Daub: Osaka Gyoza blasts international music. Should we risk copyright for gyoza?
00:13:52 Kevin Reilly: Go get one.
00:14:27 John Daub: Check it out, dancing ladies. Original gyoza, 240 yen. Lady shaking—not me. Kevin's getting gyoza. Delicious, good. The guy behind the counter doesn't speak Japanese. Staff can't speak Japanese because so many tourists. This used to be for young Japanese kids; now foreign tourists. Osakans go elsewhere.
00:15:53 John Daub: Dotonbori sign. This is crazy—I don't fit in anymore. We've been saying hi to viewers. Hard to film—everyone watches the show. Oh, hello world. Can we move from this music? I want to dance—not good for sake.
00:17:29 John Daub: Question: recommend New Year's Eve spot? Go to shrine like Tenmangu over drum bridge—food stalls, street food. Japanese don't do countdown parties; go to temple, ring bell 108 times at midnight. Chill, family-oriented, watch NHK Red and White Song Festival (Kohaku Uta Gassen). New Year's Day: hatsumode (first shrine visit).
00:19:29 Kevin Reilly: Sumiyoshi Taisha (Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine). Food stalls everywhere.
00:20:06 John Daub: Buddhist temples ring bell 108 times—festive. Shinto shrines for praying. Crowded, raining coins into boxes. We went once on New Year's Eve—cold, but fun.
00:21:08 Kevin Reilly: Planning Rokko Snow Park for snow hunting in Kansai. Biwako no snow—go north to Hokkaido.
00:22:00 John Daub: Shirakawa-go (Shirakawa village) has snow—beautiful in winter.
00:23:24 Kevin Reilly: He says best gyoza on street.
00:23:24 John Daub: Michael and Chen watch videos in background—thanks for ads. Gyoza soft on top, crunchy bottom, good negi (green onion) and nira (garlic chives) balance. Slightly burned—love it. In my neighborhood, mini gyoza: eat 80, name on wall.
00:24:46 Kevin Reilly: Love mini gyoza. Tried massive one, yacked it up.
00:26:01 John Daub: These pop like potato chips. Fabulous has Christmas beer from UK.
00:26:37 Kevin Reilly: Everybody knows you.
00:26:56 John Daub: This is Dotonbori man (street performer figure). Kuma's Kitchen—check it out. Sushi shop famous for 3D hand with sushi sign. Don Quixote Ferris wheel. Kushikatsu Daruma creepy Santa.
00:28:31 Kevin Reilly: Only ridden Nanba Honten Ferris wheel.
00:29:00 John Daub: So touristy now. Takoyaki hats, octopus headbands. Shops closing—better get takoyaki. Kevin playing Santa tomorrow—get him home early.
00:30:02 John Daub: Making takoyaki. So many tourists since 2017. Started after 2011—word got out. Mostly Asian tourists: Korea, China, Taiwan. Not even staff Japanese.
00:31:47 Kevin Reilly: Daiki Suisan kaitenzushi (conveyor belt sushi)—friendly, let film.
00:32:23 John Daub: Kinryu Ramen started ticket system. Our old Dotonbori video: street empty then, crazy busy now. Hit 500 likes for more takoyaki, hanjuku onsen tamago (half-boiled hot spring egg) takoyaki.
00:34:01 John Daub: Next Kureoru—filmed Denmark TV there. You did Netflix Chef's Table.
00:34:19 Kevin Reilly: Yes.
00:34:55 John Daub: Signs take it to another level—3D popping out. Meronpan (melon bread) bites itself.
00:36:38 Kevin Reilly: Different colors, custard inside.
00:37:00 John Daub: Cow surfing on manhole. Dotonbori manhole cover rare. Few speak Japanese here—Kevin more local than 99.9%. Gem Defensers misses Dotonbori. Kushikatsu deep-fried sticks.
00:39:00 Kevin Reilly: Daruma started in Shinsekai.
00:40:26 John Daub: Takoyaki binge—fifth tray. Staff speaks languages. Good size balls, golden brown, not gooey. Egg one—mayo so much you can't see.
00:44:27 John Daub: Itadakimasu. 400 likes to cut egg—did it! Beautiful orange yolk. We eat eggs raw here.
00:45:40 Kevin Reilly: Used to Rocky eggs.
00:46:00 John Daub: Viewers want selfies. Yako from Finland, engineer in Osaka. Eat this—maze (mayo) insane.
00:51:15 John Daub: Pukabashi area good okonomiyaki. Might work there a day—CEO offered. Blowtorch cool.
00:52:39 Kevin Reilly: Yako.
00:52:55 John Daub: Takoyaki places closing. Girl of the night. Alley to Mossman shrine—secret, no tourists. History pictures.
00:54:46 Kevin Reilly: Quiet now.
00:55:01 John Daub: Real Namba—locals in bars. Mossman Jizo covered in moss.
00:58:17 Kevin Reilly: Hanamaruken ramen 24 hours. Free kimchi, egg. Chiaiwa-se ramen (happiness ramen)—juicy chashu from special pig.
01:00:06 John Daub: Eat healthy with negi. Hojicha KitKats cheap. Don't need Dotonbori—Shinsekai better old Osaka. Old entertainment district now food.
01:02:35 Kevin Reilly: Still bars across bridge.
01:03:06 John Daub: No beer—seats taken. Quality down from tourists.
01:05:10 Kevin Reilly: Open.
01:05:40 John Daub: 500 likes—kanpai! Frosty mugs.
01:06:44 Kevin Reilly: Philippines! Kanpai.
01:07:00 John Daub: Otsukaresama beer after hiking Hell Valley—dangerous trail, mudslide.
01:07:09 Kevin Reilly: Typhoon slid mountain—climbed over.
01:08:16 John Daub: Street food mostly takoyaki—varied quality, check octopus size. Takohachi fantastic, Akashi-yaki too.
01:08:45 Kevin Reilly: Akashi-yaki eggy, dip in broth.
01:10:00 John Daub: Kanpai—70 minutes! Selfies from Thailand, Philippines.
01:15:24 Kevin Reilly: Third Santa gig—kids light.
01:17:30 John Daub: Beards: some shouldn't grow. Sneak out. Thanks Kevin.
01:19:18 Kevin Reilly: See you next year—2020 exciting.
01:19:18 John Daub: Kuma's Kitchen, Osaka Reilly Instagram. Merry Christmas, happy holidays. Midnight snack run later, another stream tomorrow before Tokyo. Bye from Dotonbori River.