00:00:00 John Daub: Greetings! Hello, how do you do? Welcome to Higashi Ginza in Tokyo, not too far from the Ginza shopping district. This is actually also considered the Tsukiji area, where Tsukiji market, the fish market, was until it was relocated a few years ago. And behind me is a very famous building, especially in the 1960s, that represented Tokyo's future. In this episode, I'm going to take a look at this now abandoned building that was once the headquarters of the world's largest advertising agency, which has moved to neighboring Shiodome. This building tells the legacy of what people envisioned in the 1960s for a future Tokyo. And the story starts here with the redevelopment of the Tsukiji area. But first, I want to show you what that vision was.

00:00:55 John Daub: I have a picture of Tange Kenzo, a very famous architect who was instrumental in creating amazing buildings for the 1964 Olympics. Take a look at this building here. This was his vision of what the future of Tokyo would look like. I'm going to show you more pictures about the 1960 Tokyo redevelopment project. Take a look at what was actually constructed, though. This is the old Dentsu headquarters, completed in 1967, about six years after the plans were released. You can see there are a lot of similarities with the original designs, but they made a ton of compromises. I'm going to pan down and show you that original image one more time, and some other related images.

00:01:51 John Daub: Again, this building is abandoned. Dentsu moved out in 2002, and they moved a smaller subsidiary, Dentsu Tech, in here until 2014. The building's been abandoned since then. Here's a picture of the original so you can compare the two. They made big compromises, although the structure of the building is there. Over the course of this episode, we're going to walk around this building, get a look inside, a closer look at the materials and design. I guess they had it actually coming out of the poles there, or the two pillars that would structurally keep it together. There was more than just a few compromises. His vision for 1960s Tokyo was more linear and very much influenced by automobiles. This takes the design even further—almost looks like honeycombs.

00:02:59 John Daub: Tange Kenzo was responsible for the 1964 Olympics building—you can remember this one near Shibuya, very modern design. He designed so many other great buildings. I first heard his name when I moved to Hiroshima. Tange Kenzo was responsible for the Hiroshima Peace Memorial building as well as the cenotaph, this beautiful domed place where you could pray for those lost in the bomb. Okay, I'm going to cross the street here. Just want to be careful because despite the lack of traffic, there are pigeons. Again, this building is completely abandoned. It's a parking lot for police vehicles, so I also want to be careful about that.

00:04:06 John Daub: I'm a newbie to the architectural world here, but it's a really interesting look into where the city was going back then and where it is going today. I remember riding my bike past here when it was still in operation by Dentsu Tech. Now you look at it and it's very sad to see this historic building created by one of Japan's most famous architects just abandoned. It does look like Art Deco. I know it's owned by Sumitomo Real Estate, but I don't think anyone can buy it. The price is quite high. I can understand why Dentsu moved its headquarters to Shiodome, but they might be kicking themselves now that everything is done remotely. Again, there's a police van—it's like a parking lot for police vehicles. This is where Dentsu Tech would have gotten permission to go up in the elevators there. I think I was in this building once because I'd worked with Dentsu in the past before starting Only in Japan. I did some ad projects with them, apps for the iPad and things like that.

00:05:46 John Daub: This could be the future OIJ headquarters, perhaps, if we can get back to a million subscribers. I'm touching the poles here. The material looks like granite-like concrete. Very interesting. It looks so strong. And you have to remember the history of this area and Tokyo. In 1923, Tokyo suffered the devastating Great Kanto Earthquake that completely destroyed the city, especially the Tsukiji area where we are right now. So after World War II, they had a Tokyo redevelopment project in the 1960s. There's like nobody here. I've been reading the history a little bit. I'm trying to get a hold of Tange's book on the urbanization of Tokyo following World War II. He had a vision of a linear Tokyo, influenced by the automobile back in the 1950s and '60s, as Tokyo became increasingly populated.

00:07:16 John Daub: Here's some pictures of what a linear Tokyo looked like from the 1960 Tokyo redevelopment project I pulled offline. This isn't in the middle of Tokyo Bay. A lot of it goes along the lines. Here's Tange Kenzo in 1981, I believe. This is the building they imagined—great compromises made, as you can see. You can see Tokyo Bay here, and this would be where Odaiba is. They're building it out with reclaimed land using garbage, but not nearly all the way. This goes towards Chiba on the other side. Tokyo Disneyland would be somewhere over here. They built bridges and connected the two lands by filling in Tokyo Bay. This is a pretty ambitious project. I didn't know about this until a couple weeks ago when I started researching what they were developing for the 1964 Olympics. Again, these are the original designs of the building we're under right now. It's pretty amazing. You can see the bridges going across there—very linear, grid-patterned. But that's how they envisioned life in the 1960s. And this is what we got right above me.

00:08:56 John Daub: For me, it's just so fascinating. Hey Nagoya John, much love. I miss Japan very much and love seeing it through your eyes. I appreciate you watching. I know I'm going live a little bit more since the pandemic hit because a lot of you can't make it to Japan. If I can show you a little bit of what I've seen—the architecture, history, attractions, life like—that makes this channel a huge success. Alright, here's the end of the building, now a parking garage. I don't remember it ever being one when I rode my bicycle past here when it was still in operation. The purpose has changed a lot—now it's more of a parking lot, which makes sense because real estate is quite expensive here in Ginza. The new Dentsu building is striking—I believe it's a boomerang-looking structure in Shiodome. But when this was completed in 1967, this was a revolutionary design. After World War II, a lot of designs were quite boring—they just needed to get buildings up for administration and normal life. Then people got creative, one of them Tange Kenzo.

00:10:20 John Daub: You can see it looks like with the cement block sticking out—it was unending, you could connect it to another building. They all just sort of connected, like the image they were looking for, but they never got it done. This would have been built around the same time as You Only Live Twice, which came out in 1967. This building was probably being constructed when Sean Connery was here—he wasn't in Japan for very long, a lot filmed on location and some in England. Looking around the building, I wonder how much has changed. You have some seating—I could see ad guys talking about new campaigns, drinking beers. Daniel, welcome for catching your first livestream. Welcome to Tokyo. The neighborhood around this building has changed quite a bit. This looks like a 1980s building, a lot more modern. That one from the late '70s, early '80s, and higher ones from the 1990s. I can tell because I've been here 23 years—the architecture before and now. This one is newer because of the large windows. Japanese covet privacy, so they didn't like people seeing in, but newer buildings have more space and light.

00:12:24 John Daub: I don't know what's going to happen to this building—it's been abandoned six or seven years. I always worry it might be too late to cover something. I wish I'd done more research, but I want to cover it before one day it's gone. Then the news covers the demolition of this artwork. But it's so quiet right now—we have the entire place to ourselves. I'd like to get in touch with Sumitomo to get inside and make an episode, because I'm fascinated with how Tange Kenzo envisioned Tokyo in the 1960s. He was born before World War II, saw the war, and after the bombing, Tokyo was like a blank sheet of paper. To an architect like him, this must have been fascinating. He passed away in 2005 and worked until near his death—a very hard worker. He inspired Kengo Kuma, architect of the Olympic Stadium. I've had drinks with Kuma a couple times but never interviewed him about his designs. He's an inspiration on how I look at architecture.

00:14:53 John Daub: I met Kengo Kuma at a speech—he was brought by a group I worked with, and the chairman had me sit with him afterward. We talked, then went out for drinks in Osaka. I was going to interview him about the stadium designs, but the pandemic hit. Kuma started with stone, then moved to wood, influenced by Kochi Prefecture buildings like the old Kabuki theater. He now uses more natural materials than the stone and cement Tange used here. It's a striking design, but it doesn't fit anymore with the actual vision of the future over there in Shiodome. Shiodome is reclaimed land that's become a skyscraper magnet—what this area was supposed to be. Shiodome started opening around 2001 and has blossomed into something modern over 20 years. You can get lost in the maze of subterranean buildings. You can see the design sloping up so water would come down. I wonder what it was like in the rain—I guess come back during rainy season.

00:16:20 John Daub: Alright, we'll walk around this side—nothing saying we can't. This looks like a different kind of building, maybe more like what I've seen in the U.S. The roof is fascinating—seems like interlocked cement blocks constructed before and locked together. They're very uniform. I can't go inside—the building is abandoned, and Sumitomo real estate, I got to contact them. I'm here to scout because this would make an interesting story for the channel. I like challenging myself with stories bigger than what other YouTubers cover. Everybody hits the surface, but there's a foundation to Tokyo that started after World War II through eyes of great men like Tange Kenzo. I first learned about him in Hiroshima with the Peace Memorial—he designed so many amazing buildings, including a district in Naples, Italy.

00:18:26 John Daub: If you like these abandoned buildings or older Tokyo architecture, please click the like button—that encourages me. I'm going to the corner to show one more time the compromises they made and ask why. Why compromise? If they challenged themselves, this could have been really special. The most frustrating thing for anyone with a grand vision is to compromise. I can imagine it was frustrating working with the city and Dentsu: "We don't have the money, but we can make this." It could also be because it's not earthquake resistant. They shut it down in 2014. I asked Kanae to research why Dentsu Tech left—maybe not up to earthquake code. You'd think in 1967, building for the future, they'd consider earthquakes, but the 2011 Tohoku quake was so strong it questioned structural integrity of buildings like this.

00:20:17 John Daub: This skyscraper is the building for Kabukiza, the Kabuki Theater of Tokyo. It didn't exist five or six years ago—new after the 2011 quake damaged the old theater. They kept the traditional front with a skyscraper in back to lease out—smart business in pricey Ginza. They built with structural integrity for strong quakes; maybe this building wasn't. Let me show pictures for those joining—this is a livestream in Tokyo researching this building for a future episode. The story goes back to the 1960s with Kenzo Tange, family name Tange. He designed this building we're under. This was the first compromise, with honeycomb windows and a Gotham City look. This is the grander design—buildings could connect. Here's the main building—they could have kept building, but it was ridiculously expensive. This was the grand plan: Tokyo here, Chiba there, Tokyo Disneyland at the end of my thumb. They'd fill with bridges and roads, society living in the sea—super ambitious.

00:22:53 John Daub: Jody writes, could have run out of money—that could be one reason. Yeah, it's abandoned now. Any questions? I'm happy to answer. But I'm here to research and give a closer look—I never know how long these buildings will be here. With the 2020-2021 Olympics, they're not staying forever. Let's walk to the other corner for distance—you get a different perspective. There are many abandoned buildings in Japan because population is decreasing and younger generations don't want countryside. Most are outside cities, but it's costly to demolish and rebuild. I'm surprised this hasn't been—maybe because it was part of the 1960s Tsukiji redevelopment. Let's go down here past the Family Mart for another perspective. This is the Tsukiji area—original foreign settlement in the 19th century, first U.S. Embassy. Historical place, bombed heavily in the March 1945 firebombings—we're nearing the 76th anniversary.

00:24:48 John Daub: I came here 10 years ago working with ADK, another big ad agency—one of the big three with Hakuhodo. ADK's headquarters was in a skyscraper over there, but they moved. Wow, further away you see more—up on the roof there's another structure, some kind of penthouse. I wonder in the bubble era what this building was like—secret hideouts, tiny rising sun places, bedroom and boardroom. Who knows? My image of Dentsu's 1980s headquarters must have been interesting with all that ad money. Executive suites. Let's try from back at the bridge. Tsukiji is always changing. I did a livestream here a year ago showing copper-plated 1930s buildings after the Great Kanto Earthquake—plated to prevent fires, since fires destroyed most, not the quake.

00:27:07 John Daub: There on the right is the old Dentsu headquarters designed by Tange Kenzo. There's the cement block sticking out, looking futuristic like prefab Lego construction. I think Kurokawa designed the Nakagin Capsule Tower in the 1970s—maybe inspired by buildings like this, the image of the future as people moved to urban areas. Tokyo's population was skyrocketing. The Nakagin Capsule Tower was on Airbnb but not anymore—every year they talk demolition, but it stays. You can walk there in 30 minutes—I've covered it in livestreams. A friend of a friend was a TV director renting his as Airbnb—started cheap at $30 a night, went up to $200-300. I missed my chance—no shower, had to go to sento in Ginza. Crystal Frost, hi—this neighborhood is Tsukiji, Higashi Ginza, between Tsukiji and Sumida River and Ginza right there. Apple Store straight ahead, 250 meters. This highway is from the 1964 Olympics development to make Tokyo modern—it was a river they dried up for an expressway without impeding real estate.

00:31:37 John Daub: The pace of progress in the '60s and '90s got faster, especially with Olympics—they constructed so quickly there was negative impact like de-beautification, controversy over Nihonbashi bridge with the ugly overpass. Here's the building from another angle—you see it in totality. If you like neighborhood walks and historical architecture episodes, I'm going to do more—click like for encouragement. Food gets views; architecture and history, not so much. This building on the left is becoming abandoned too—old ADK headquarters, at least a third owned by them, now moved to Toranomon tower. Built early 21st century, kind of abandoned—a third still available. Dentsu moved out in 2002 to Shiodome, Dentsu Tech until 2014—now most work remotely. In the distance, Tsukiji's Stone Temple—unique, massive.

00:34:38 John Daub: I'm wrapping around one more time before ending. This is the final angle—you see new buildings, and this one that was so new in 1967 looks old now. Tange's vision of the future seems dated. But when I look at that design, I'm inspired—buildings should inspire, not just be practical. Even today it does. It looks dated because maybe not upkept well. Once again, this highway used to be a river—you see the odd shape, have to swerve. Here's the ADK building—they might still have offices. Tsukiji Market was over here, now a parking lot; this is Tsukiji Outer Market. Tsukiji Hongwanji Buddhist Temple with a nice view through the alley. Walk this way to Kabuki Theater and Ginza Yonchome with Wako Department Store. Higashi Ginza—I almost moved here, found a reasonably priced apartment but too small, so went to Shinozaki. Check yesterday's livestream for the difference—I wanted to feel more at home.

00:37:49 John Daub: The reason I'm walking this way is to end at the new Kabuki Theater—they kept the traditional design but it's structurally new, with a skyscraper above utilizing property to fund Kabuki forever through rent. Now you see the skyscraper growing out the back—pretty cool. The Kabuki Theater looks beautiful, new paint job—renovated every 20-30 years, just finished structural work. After the 2011 Great Tohoku Earthquake, a lot had to be repaired—my old apartment had cracks, sink cracked, aftershocks widened them, so I got a new one. Some sake barrels. Here's the front of Kabuki Theater, closed today. Kabuki is traditional Japanese theater where men play all parts, including women—going on for centuries. I've seen it and Noh theater—Kabuki more colorful.

00:40:51 John Daub: Let me take you back for the final scene—my bicycle is over there. Whoa, new burger joint—looks pretty good. 10 in Japanese means 10—a burger. I could eat one now. We're walking to the building, then back to my bike to say goodbye. Fascinating 40-minute look at the old Dentsu building—clear image now of that penthouse. No wonder it's up there—I got to beg Sumitomo to let me inside, wear a helmet if needed. That's a famous statue of a dog and her puppies—another reason to walk from Ginza. Wrapping around the ADK building—it's not called that anymore since they left. I had so many good friends there—they'd invite me for lunch, I'd wait on these wooden steps. There's a Schmatz German sausage restaurant—note to self, come back with Peter von Gomm.

00:44:16 John Daub: ADK is Asatsu-DK, third largest ad agency after Hakuhodo and Dentsu. Since 2005 doing video work, I had clients from ad agencies before YouTube—NHK reporting too. That's the exit for my neighborhood, Shintomi-cho on Yurakucho Line. I'm going to pan up one last time—this building, old Dentsu headquarters completed 1967, was HQ until 2002, then Dentsu Tech until 2014, abandoned since. Hit subscribe and like if you like these. I might be back tonight—Sunday nights in pandemic Tokyo are quiet, deserted like this building. Might do a late 1am neighborhood livestream to show another side special to now. Join me end of February—tough month, can't travel much. New Hokkaido episode from last year coming, then earthquake safety, sushi—eventful March as summer ramps up. Have a good day, stay safe. Hit Discord or Twitter @OnlyJapanTV. Thanks, Jiman3Full—gonna use that for something for Kanae at the organic vegetable stand.