Only in Japan Go — Transcripts
Summaries + full diarized transcripts
2021-04-21 · Ep 970 · 1h 1m

Utsunomiya Station Gyoza to Central Street View

Tochiginostalgiaregional foodcity tourbicycle travel
Summary

Utsunomiya Station Gyoza to Central Street View

Overview

In this nostalgic journey, John Daub returns to Utsunomiya, the capital of Tochigi Prefecture, where he lived and taught English roughly 20 years prior. Known famously as the "Gyoza Capital" of Japan, John explores the city on a rental bicycle, scouting locations for future episodes while revisiting old haunts. The video captures the contrast between the bustling past and the quieter present, impacted by the pandemic and shifting retail trends.

John starts at Utsunomiya Station, noting the enduring presence of gyoza shops, before cycling down Baba Dori toward the historic Futaarayama Jinja. He navigates through the Oriandori Shotengai (covered shopping arcade), pointing out changes in the landscape, including closed department stores and new buildings. The tour culminates in Izumi-cho, his former neighborhood known for its entertainment district, and a visit to the legendary Minmin Gyoza main store.

Throughout the ride, John shares personal anecdotes about life in regional Japan during the late 90s, the culture of shotengai, and the specific pride Utsunomiya holds for its dumplings. Despite the quiet streets, the video highlights the city's unique charm, its connection to Tokyo via the Tobu Line and Shinkansen, and the enduring appeal of its local food culture.

Highlights

  • 00:00:03 John introduces Utsunomiya as his old stomping ground from 20 years ago.
  • 00:01:18 Discovery of the famous Gyoza Statue near the station.
  • 00:03:09 John secures a free rental bicycle to tour the city.
  • 00:06:05 Riding down Baba Dori (Horse Street) toward the shrine.
  • 00:13:31 Arrival at Futaarayama Jinja and the surrounding shopping district.
  • 00:15:21 Spotting gyoza vending machines and gyoza beer.
  • 00:18:20 Explanation of Tobu Department Store as the anchor of the area.
  • 00:26:01 Reaching the Tobu Department Store and Oriandori Shotengai.
  • 00:28:01 Entering Izumi-cho, John's old "seedy" neighborhood.
  • 00:39:13 Marveling at a massive tower parking garage.
  • 00:45:40 Arriving at Minmin Gyoza, the most famous shop in town.
  • 00:54:19 Climbing the steps to Futaarayama Jinja to pray.
  • 00:58:32 Planning to eat gyoza on the Shinkansen back to Tokyo.

Timeline / Chapters

Japan Travel Tips

  • Transport: Utsunomiya is accessible via the Tohoku Shinkansen (approx. 45 mins from Tokyo) or the Tobu Line from Asakusa (approx. 90 mins, cheaper fare).
  • Bicycle Rental: Free or low-cost bicycle rentals are available near the station; ID may be required.
  • Gyoza: While Minmin Gyoza is famous, you can also find quality gyoza inside Utsunomiya Station without the long wait.
  • Shopping: The Oriandori Shotengai is a covered arcade great for walking regardless of weather, though some stores may be closed on weekdays.
  • Timing: City centers in regional prefectures can be quiet on weekdays; weekends may offer more activity.
  • Shrine Visit: Futaarayama Jinja requires a climb up steps; wear comfortable shoes.

Japanese Language & Culture Notes

  • Gyoza (餃子): Pan-fried dumplings. In Utsunomiya, they are a local specialty often eaten as a main dish rather than a side to ramen.
  • Shotengai (商店街): Covered shopping arcades common in Japanese cities. John notes they were "ultra cool" hangout spots in the 90s.
  • Baba Dori (馬場通り): "Horse Street." Baba relates to uma (horse), historically referring to a place for horses.
  • Shu-i-ro (朱色): Vermilion color, often seen on shrine gates. John clarifies it is the color of the sun, not just red or orange.
  • Danchi (団ち): Public housing complexes. John mentions his old apartment was in a danchi in Izumi-cho.
  • Nihonshu (日本酒): Japanese rice wine, often donated to shrines in barrels (kazaridaru).
  • Eikaiwa (英会話): English conversation schools where John taught during his time in Utsunomiya.

Food & Drink Guide

  • Gyoza (餃子): The star of the city. John highlights Minmin Gyoza as the most famous spot, though notes station shops serve the same product.
  • Gyoza Beer: A local specialty beer paired with dumplings, spotted on vending machines.
  • Gyoza Sandwich: Seen at a stand in the shopping arcade.
  • Karaage (揚げ物/唐揚げ): Fried chicken spots visible in the shopping district.
  • Takoyaki (たこ焼き): Octopus balls available in the shotengai, though John notes this is more Osaka-style.
  • Minmin Gyoza: The flagship store often has lines out the door; known for brand recognition and TV appearances.

People

  • John Daub: Host and narrator. Revisiting his former home city, sharing personal history and observations.
  • Kanae Daub: John's wife, mentioned as waiting for him in Tokyo; it is their wedding anniversary.
  • Leo: John's son, mentioned briefly.
  • Chat Participants: Michael Sassano, John Kimura, Amanda Stevenson (mentioned via super chats during the livestream).

Key Takeaways

  • Utsunomiya is fiercely proud of its gyoza, despite losing a ranking to Hamamatsu.
  • Regional city centers have changed significantly over 20 years, with some decline in traditional shotengai due to suburban malls.
  • Bicycle travel is a viable and enjoyable way to explore compact prefectural capitals.
  • Many famous local foods (like Minmin Gyoza) have satellite locations in transit hubs for convenience.
  • Nostalgia plays a strong role in how long-term residents view changes in their former neighborhoods.

Notable Quotes

  • 00:00:34 "This is my old stomping ground. I used to live here about 20 years ago."
  • 00:01:18 "Unfortunately for Utsunomiya, just keep this between us, they lost the ranking of best gyoza spot to Hamamatsu in Shizuoka."
  • 00:03:09 "Any gyoza makes me happy."
  • 00:19:16 "I want something that says Utsunomiya. You know what I mean? Support some local businesses."
  • 00:30:27 "That's the dedication you have to put into a YouTube video."
  • 00:54:19 "I'm going to pray for all of you for safety for the next couple of months as the world starts to get vaccinated slowly."
  • 00:59:13 "If you have gyoza eat it don't tell me about it I don't want to know I'm hungry bye."

Related Topics

  • Regional Japanese Food Specialties
  • Shotengai Culture in Japan
  • Living in Regional Japan vs. Tokyo
  • Shinkansen Travel Tips
  • Bicycle Tourism in Japan

Search Tags

#only-in-japan-go #utsunomiya #tochigi #gyoza #minmin-gyoza #shotengai #futaarayama-jinja #tobu-department-store #izumi-cho #bicycle-tour #nostalgia #shinkansen #japan-travel #regional-japan #john-daub


Full Transcript

00:00:03 John Daub: Welcome to Utsunomiya. This is my old stomping ground. I used to live here about 20 years ago. And I wanted to show you around, not the station, because it's not too exciting here. Although, inside of Utsunomiya Station, there are a lot of places where you can get gyoza (pan-fried dumplings). You eat that as an accompaniment with ramen. However, I think you can eat it on its own, and Utsunomiya likes to prove that point.

00:00:34 John Daub: This station really hasn't changed much over the years. We are in the middle of a pandemic, and Tokyo will be shutting down soon. But I'm here on work to film some shots for the Shinkansen and some other episodes, and scouting here for gyoza. And I have a bicycle. So you're going to be walking around Utsunomiya Station. And I'm going to take you from here to the center of Utsunomiya, where I used to live. I didn't live around here. And I got a bicycle, so we're going to get a chance to ride into town. It's not that far if you have a bicycle. Let's get going.

00:01:18 John Daub: Up here, Utsunomiya Station. How you doing? Is that Leonardo? Welcome. This town, as I said, it's very famous for gyoza, which is represented right here in this. It's a rock. I guess that's like Gyoza Man. You can see it, right? It looks like a piece of dumpling. Actually, it is gyoza. It's a gyoza statue. Unfortunately for Utsunomiya, just keep this between us, they lost the ranking of best gyoza spot to Hamamatsu in Shizuoka. That does not bode well. But I have a feeling that Utsunomiya will fight and win that back. Here. Let's get going.

00:02:13 John Daub: I know it is a little bit creepy. Beautiful afternoon. I've been spending most of my afternoon in a farm field getting shots of the Shinkansen riding by. So I think this livestream won't be too, too long. It's not a big town. Although it is the prefectural capital of Tochigi Prefecture. And it has not changed that much since I lived here 20 years ago. Not this area anyways. The station looks just as old as it did back then. Although I have a nice photo from up there on the screen. I was on the platform saying goodbye to Utsunomiya when I moved out of here.

00:03:09 John Daub: Alright, here we go. My bicycle is parked. Oh, there's some gyoza. Right away, we're inundated with gyoza. Happy gyoza. Any gyoza makes me happy. I guess you can actually get this to go. I want you to stay tuned because I'm going to take you to Minmin Gyoza's first shop. Yeah, you can. You get 12 for 500 yen. That's pretty good. And the restaurant, unlike most places that serve gyoza in Japan, this one majors in gyoza and minors in ramen. You don't see that in a lot of places.

00:03:57 John Daub: The buses are a little bit dated too. Not a bad thing. These all could be buses that I rode 20 years ago. It's interesting. A lot of the prefectural capitals, the big cities in these prefectures outside of Kanto, away from big, big cities like Tokyo, they all kind of look alike. You have the yellow tactile pavement for people that are blind, you see. It helps guide them to traffic lights so they know where to stop.

00:04:39 John Daub: I'm just so excited. We don't have to go that far. We just have to go to the end of the street there. But I do have my bicycle here. It's a rental. I think it was free. They didn't ask for any money. They asked me for my ID. I gave it to them and they didn't charge me. The guy said, where am I from? I said, America. And then he said, oh, big country. Bad situation. I go, it's bad everywhere. Then he told me he used to work for Canon. And I said, oh, that's too bad. I'm shooting with Sony right now. I thought that was pretty funny. Then he gave me the bicycle. End of story.

00:05:40 John Daub: But it's interesting. They have here free bicycle rentals. I don't know if it's free or not. But the bicycle rentals are open in the morning. All of the places on this side of the station, they were all sold out. Because it's such a beautiful sunny day. Everybody wanted to ride a bicycle.

00:06:05 John Daub: Here we go. So when I'm riding the bicycle, due to laws, I cannot be watching the smartphone. So anybody who leaves a chat as I'm riding, just update. I'm not going to be watching what you're saying. But you can watch the road. I also have a portable mic with a wind buffer. So you can still hear me. I believe this is called Baba Dori (Horse Street). I haven't been here in ages. I don't remember a lot of the stuff. But I believe this is Baba Dori. And the kanji was like place of horse. Baba. The kanji ba also is for uma, which is horse. So we're going straight down Baba Dori to the shrine, which is Futaarayama Jinja.

00:07:22 John Daub: All right, here we go. I'm not looking at the smartphone. I see Michael Sassano did a super chat and John Kimura. I can't see the smartphone, guys. And Amanda's here too. Thanks for the drink, Amanda. All right, I'm not watching the smartphone. Just focus on the road, everybody. The wind is here. All right, no traffic. Beautiful, beautiful sailing. Really not a lot of traffic. You can't compare this to Tokyo. Completely different. I think we got two more traffic lights to go and then we're there.

00:08:26 John Daub: Amanda Stevenson. I'm going to stop and see if I can get something good on the shopping street. And they do have a very nice shotengai (covered shopping arcade). We're going to get a look over there. Oh, gosh, I remember when I was teaching English school here. Teaching English. It's not abunai (dangerous) if I'm not looking at the smartphone. I can actually hold on to the railing. Look, you can hold on to both. So, actually was teaching here English back in 1999. Was it 2000 or 1999? And it was, yeah, it was actually a nice place to live.

00:09:23 John Daub: It's a nice place to live for me. I made a lot of friends here. There were, I think, six foreigners living in the city at the time. And everybody seems to know your name. You're that foreigner. You're one of six. And the other five, I think two of them were JETs. And the other three besides me were teaching at eikaiwa (English conversation schools).

00:10:29 John Daub: I'm so hungry. If we could find some gyoza, like, as street food, you better believe me. I'm going to jump on that right away. Okay, I think we're just about there. I remember the post office. Oh, there's the post office. There was a massive post office right before all of the shops. I used to go there to send stuff abroad. Oh, look at this little free space. Interesting. Oh, this has changed. This is a brand new apartment building. I've never seen this before.

00:11:34 John Daub: Oh, they're moving a sofa. Okay. We should be reaching the shopping district in about 30 seconds or so. Here's the post office. Whoa, blast from the past. Gosh, I remember so many good memories. They used to have, was it a Starbucks? They had a coffee shop here, but it wasn't a Starbucks. Back in the 1990s, it was just a place to go. It was a place where it reminded me of home. They didn't have many places like that. Hard Rock Cafe and McDonald's were just about the only places where I could go when I was homesick.

00:12:40 John Daub: All right, we're walking. I'm in shock. This place has changed. This place has changed so much. It's just a little bit windy today. Wow. This is awesome. I have not been here in ages. I can't remember the last time I was in Utsunomiya. Right off the bat, we've got restaurants and stuff with karaage (fried chicken).

00:13:31 John Daub: All right, first of all, a couple of things here. So we'll see if we get a chance to go up here. There's a lot of steps. This is Futaarayama Jinja. Gosh. I remember it was hard for me to say 20 years ago when I first moved here, first got here. It's still hard today. And the station, it's about a 20-minute walk. This is out of business. I'm so much in shock right now. This was like a parko, I believe. And these windows here, I would sit in a cafe and look out the window. When I had nothing to do, it just sort of felt like I was in the big city. But it's out of business.

00:14:15 John Daub: All right, there's a shotengai this way. Let's walk around. This Don Quixote wasn't here. Look, it's closed. All the young people were here back then. Seriously, I'm in shock. I guess the economy has not been good. Parko. This was the department store. I think they had a Loft inside there, too. Loft is a really popular store where you can get stuff. Here's the shotengai. This is where all the young people, including me back then 20 years ago, would hang out, try to act cool, dress up to walk down the shotengai.

00:15:21 John Daub: Wow, look at the vending machines. They even have gyoza there. John Kimura has paid for the gyoza funds, so we'll see what we can find. I know that they got gyoza beer. They got gyoza beer in Utsunomiya, which is so awesome. It is a nice city. It's a retro city in a way. I haven't seen a lot of improvements or work on it. A lot of these buildings, they do look very Showa era, including this one right here.

00:16:23 John Daub: There's a takoyaki stand right here. Was this here 20 years ago? My memory is very faint. Wow, the shotengai still looks good. Konnichiwa. Still looks really good. Konnichiwa. Wow. It looks so old. I'm actually riding a bicycle, so the shotengai. Just saying. It's very quiet, very empty. I'm sure just like a lot of other places, they've been deeply impacted by the pandemic.

00:17:15 John Daub: This man used to be the owner of the shop. Oh, I remember there used to be a Docomo shop here, right on the corner there. And I remember this is when they released something called FOMA, and they had the first video phone in the year 2000 from Docomo. And I got so excited. I said, I want to get this FOMA. And then I looked at the price, and I said, never mind. But you could do a TV phone, and that was just the future. And that was when I was living here in Utsunomiya. I first saw that.

00:18:20 John Daub: Freshness Burger. But, you know, at shopping malls, they have something called anchor stores, okay? There's an anchor store here in Utsunomiya. It's Tobu Department Store. And you can get to Utsunomiya, the cheapest way is on the Tobu line, which leaves from Asakusa Station. I think it was 1,000, 1,050 yen or like 1,100 yen or something. It took a while. I think it was like 90 minutes. The Shinkansen takes 45 minutes. And it ends at the Tobu Department Store. So we're going to go towards there. And I'm going to loop around to the neighborhood that I used to live in. See if that apartment's still there.

00:19:16 John Daub: I'm looking still for that food. I don't want takoyaki or kebabs. I want something that says Utsunomiya. You know what I mean? Support some local businesses. But takoyaki. That's so Osaka to me, anyways. So after we get through Tobu Department Store and Izumicho, which is my old neighborhood, I'm going to take you to Minmin Gyoza, which is the first gyoza place. First Minmin Gyoza. And it's maybe the most popular gyoza place in Japan.

00:20:05 John Daub: It is pretty empty. Wow, I remember this bridge. I remember meeting friends here. This is such a blast from the past. In between the shotengai from the entrance here and the one where we get off to see Tobu Department Store, there's a little bridge. And this would be a meeting point right in the middle. I'll meet you on the bridge, we would say. Shotengai sort of look alike. They all have a shopping street. They're all pretty much covered. They look kind of retro now. But 20 years ago, it was ultra cool. Like shopping malls. But in Japan, we had shotengai. Now actually, Japan does have shopping malls. But back in the Showa era, it was all about this, right? And now the shopping malls, mostly the Aeon malls, have come taking over.

00:21:21 John Daub: And there's a gyoza place. Let's see if they got something to go. Everything's going well. Got a little of a break. The little guy is sleeping. I'm going to miss a couple of diaper changes. But I should be home well before dinner. This is our... We got married in 2018. So this is our third anniversary. So I have to bring home something better than gyoza, actually. My friend Joanne in London reminded me this is the leather year. So I got to buy her a bag.

00:22:28 John Daub: This is new. What? A little amphitheater action. Hey, gyoza sandwich sounds really good. I'm looking for that. This amphitheater was not here before. Check it out. So you'd be walking down the shotengai, guys, shopping with your friends, and then hearing this. You'd hear music cruising through these streets. Not today, but that sounds pretty cool if they were playing. What I like about the shotengai, guys, is you'll still see family-run businesses. This is a yaoya (vegetable stand), and they still sell stuff here. I think this was here 20 years ago when I was living in Utsunomiya, too.

00:23:17 John Daub: I like to stream in the afternoons because I'm working in the daytime, too, just like a lot of other people in the morning. And then in the evening, I'm editing. So welcome. And plus, our friends in Singapore are just getting into the evening, maybe. I think they're two, three hours ahead. Retro. I'm going to look back, just pan around. But sometimes when I'm not talking, which is very rarely, I'm going to look at the camera and I'll be like, OK.

00:26:01 John Daub: All right, this is the luxurious part. Check it out. Louis Vuitton is here and so is Tiffany. This is Tobu Department Store. This is the end or the anchor. It's massive. And inside of this department store is a train station, which is awesome, right? You can take a train from the department store to central Tokyo. So this station, Tobu, will connect with Asakusa Station all the way in Tokyo. And that's pretty sweet. Wow. It's been ages. I remember it's just kind of sad because it doesn't seem like there's a lot of people around. So this is Oriandori. Now I remember the name of it. Oriandori is the name of this shotengai.

00:27:05 John Daub: That department store has everything, including a train station. A lot of the department stores are train companies in Japan. Kintetsu. Meitetsu in Nagoya. It's amazing because I guess they own the property, right? The railways own the properties around the station where there's a lot of people. It just makes sense to build a department store. And Tobu Department Store is right there, which is extraordinary. And this whole city is extraordinarily quiet. I cannot believe how quiet it is. All right, we're going to cross the street over to Izumi-cho. Cho is the name of this neighborhood. It's the ending for towns or subdivisions within a city.

00:28:01 John Daub: Here's one of the alleys where there's a lot of hostess bars and entertainment down here. It's pretty hopping on a Friday night. I'm going to wrap around and we're going to take a look at Minmin Gyoza and perhaps get something there. They definitely are open. That's the most famous shop here in Utsunomiya, the Minmin Gyoza. Now Izumi-cho, where I lived, had a bad reputation. It was where a lot of the snack bars, quote-unquote hostess clubs, quote-unquote seedy places. But I do know that it's seedier than other places.

00:29:02 John Daub: All right, we're going to have to get some food because I'm running low on gas. I'm just nostalgically blown away by how Utsunomiya has not changed at all. I'm shocked that this city did not change. That traffic light talks to you. All right, this is looking back at the Tobu department store. You can see it really is massive. What I showed you earlier... I told you it was just the entrance. But the scale of it, it really does go up quite a ways. And Tobu also has a department store in Ikebukuro, which has just about everything in there.

00:30:27 John Daub: I've been in a rice paddy trying to get a drone shot. And I keep missing it because the Hokuriku Shinkansen actually departs every, like, once an hour, the Hayabusa. So if you miss it, you have to stay there for an hour until you catch it. That's the dedication you have to put into a YouTube video. So I've been working on my suntan in a rice paddy that looked like a cornfield because there was no rice. They don't plant the rice until June.

00:31:20 John Daub: All right, to get to Izumicho, the seedy places, we're going to have to go off-road. We're going off-road to Seedy Town. Don't worry. You're with me. You're safe. Gonna take you to Seedy Town. Welcome to Izumicho, which I don't know what its reputation is today. I used to live down on Exit 7A, then on Route 206 into the boons of the Pine Barrens. New Jersey is not all city. The south part of it is a very beautiful place.

00:32:16 John Daub: All right, so this traffic light, which is kind of low, this is where all the seedy stuff happens. This is where you want to be, aka Izumicho, baby. There's the maki room. Don't know what that means here. Is that my apartment this way? Let's go to the end of the street a little bit. I don't remember much of Izumicho. I just remember that it's seedy. And I would finish work here. So I would finish work here in the evening and have to walk through here to get to my apartment. And I got propositioned quite a bit. I never took anybody up on it. But the propositions came in. I had a suit on because even though I was teaching children, they made me wear a suit. Business suit. Didn't make any sense to me.

00:33:18 John Daub: I hope that apartment building was also torn down. Because it was a real hole in the wall. Wow, this looks like my bike from 20 years ago. I remember the apartment building because it had like a slope to it. And I was living on that floor and the roof was sloped. So it was kind of a rip off. It's like half a room because the ceiling was sloping. You know what? I'm guessing that they just tore it down. Which is probably a good thing for everybody involved. No, let's just say that it's gone forever and good riddance.

00:34:53 John Daub: From Izumi-cho, we can wrap around to the shrine. So get your five yen coins ready. I didn't have cash for the vending machine or to get, I had just enough for the takoyaki. People were super chatting me money. Here, use this. How do I convert a super chat into instant cash? I don't know. It doesn't work like that. Although one day the iPhone will become a printer and be able to print cash. That would be pretty cool. Or it would just do a digital thing where I could just use it instantly through a QR code generated for use at vending machines.

00:36:51 John Daub: Club Hardy and the Notice Club. You go there to get noticed. Hey, look at these ones. This club is called Boy Hunt, another place. It has some pretty cool names. Star Palace, Night Spot Jun, and Mondo something. Club Union. You know what's funny? The name of love hotels too. They always have a very funny name. My favorite was Hotel California. I wonder where they got that idea from. Speaking of love hotels, what's the name of a love hotel? I guess if you do come to an entertainment district, you need a place to go.

00:38:01 John Daub: This is sort of, I'm looking back for my apartment. I think, honestly, I think it's really gone. I really think my apartment is gone. Utsunomiya doesn't really have a manhole cover. That's interesting. They should do one with gyoza, don't you think? This is a gyoza shop. So tomorrow I intend to... Looks kind of old. Do you mean party? That's the party of Abe-san and Suga-san.

00:39:13 John Daub: Look at that. Massive. Do you see this? This is a parking garage. This is massive. It's a parking garage tower. So all in here, it's like a Ferris wheel filled with cars. I've always wanted to put a GoPro in there, like six of them, and put a really bright light, and then park the car, and then just turn on the light and the GoPros and film it as it goes merry-go-round. That'd be pretty cool. I don't think we have those kinds of parking garages in the United States. There's also, this is a beautiful place to the cherry blossoms. Now, we're past the season. But let's walk back to the street.

00:40:02 John Daub: So this is the danchi Izumi-cho, which didn't look at danchi these days because they cleaned up their act. Couldn't find my apartment, but I'm not sad about that. Now, the Utsunomiya City Hall is back the other way. Another 20-minute walk, and trust me, it's not worth live streaming. However, there is the equivalent of Tokyo Tower here in Utsunomiya. Every city seems to have a TV tower that looks like Tokyo Tower. And the one here is pretty good because it's not as high as the Tokyo Tower, but it's on a hill, which makes it sort of one of the highest things in the city.

00:40:55 John Daub: Oh, there's the Aeon. So this is near where I used to work. I wonder if the Amity Aeon is still there. That'd be creepy. Imagine if I run into one of my students who's 20 years older. John-sensei, oboete imasu ka? No, I don't remember you because you look like a little kid. I don't think I would recognize anybody, but they probably would recognize me. I just look older. Less hair. I'm wearing a mask. I'm in disguise.

00:41:50 John Daub: So this is where the shotengai, the center of the shotengai. We're not going to go that way. We're going to make a left. I just want to walk by to see if the school is here. Then we're going to take a look at the shrine. Just a little bit and then walk over to a gyoza place. That's where we'll end the live stream because John's got to get back on the Shinkansen and go home. Actually, I wanted to go to Okamoto Station. I forget what the name of it. It's the next one here. And you can see the Shinkansen blowing through that station, which is really cool, which would be a great B-roll for the Tohoku Shinkansen episode I'm making.

00:42:31 John Daub: That's pretty creepy. Look at that. Look. That's like one of the dwarf chapels or something, isn't it? Look at that. That's unusual architecture. It's got a clock on it. Yeah, like a gnome hat. Right, Wendy? Good call. It's the gnome hat building. So I worked on this street in the shotengai, this overhang off of this road, Babadori. And I wonder if I'm sure that they moved it to a clean location. There was a slight cockroach problem in there. But the kids liked it because they get extra points the more that they smashed. It's hard to catch them, though. When your students are five and six years old, they're not that scared of gokiburi (cockroaches). They actually, a lot of boys will collect the bugs.

00:43:57 John Daub: I don't see it here. Looks like a lot of places are closed. It's not a weekend. This is a weekday. This is kind of weird. But I think over the course of the last 20 years, a lot of people have moved out of the center of Utsunomiya because there's just so much more now outside of here. A lot more Aeon malls, shopping, new shops, new houses, new infrastructure. It's just kind of old here in the city center. But the way things work, it's very cyclical, right? 20 years, this place will be completely empty and they'll start to renovate the city center and people will come back here.

00:44:45 John Daub: There's the city hall, I believe. The center of your screen. Utsunomiya. What do you think? This is such a... There's Baba. Babacho. I can see this being Gyoza town. I'm kind of sad that they lost the Gyoza crown to... Look at that mega Don Quixote. Don Quixote is serving gyoza? What? I guess they... Interesting. Mental note, Don Quixote has gyoza. Stop there on the way home.

00:45:40 John Daub: Oh, there's my bike right there. Let's cross the street to Minmin Gyoza and... Whoa! Dude, don't do it. This is a chicken place. You will be eaten. Get away off of this. It's pretty crazy. The pigeon has no idea how close he is to the gyoza. To being in a fryer. They eat your kind there. Pigeons and chickens are related as they both can take flight. Oh, sorry. Oh look, they're painting the omikoshi (portable shrine). That looks nice. That's shu-i-ro (vermilion, color of the sun). It's not red. It's not orange. It's shu-i-ro, which is the color of the sun. And good job painting it.

00:47:07 John Daub: Would you rather see gyoza or shrine? I'm thinking gyoza. Orange, red or shu-i-ro. Shu-i-ro. It's the color of the sun. You notice that a lot of the shrines have the gates colored in shu-i-ro. I think it's from the Han period. Nosh said shrine. Obviously, Jim, you said shrine. Everyone's saying shrine. Franklin says shrine. Joy says shrine. All right. You know what? Okay, fine. I'm going to go here and just show the gyoza shop and then I'll walk back to the shrine, okay? Because I'm hungry.

00:47:51 John Daub: So we started here at the station. Now you can clearly see Utsunomiya Station right in the center of your screen there. Just at the end of the street. We rode our bike here. I had both hands on the steering wheel. At no time was I looking at the smartphone screen. So it was safe. Safety first. I'm just before I go back to the shrine and I have 15% battery because I was using this to fly a drone. I'm going to show you where Minmin Gyoza is. And this is a nicer entertainment district. As you can see, there's a craft beer place right here with pizza and natural wine. It's good.

00:49:09 John Daub: Hey, everybody. We are back. Hey, everybody. We're back. Hope you have a screen here. Why is it the black screen? No, really. Hey, welcome back, everybody. Sorry. There's a dead spot on the corner there. We lost the signal for a second. I'm now standing in front of Minmin Gyoza. And OK, we're back. Good. There's already a line here, which is pretty incredible. This is the most famous gyoza spot, maybe in the west. But you can get... Usually when I was living here, the line was out the door. It would start here and would go all the way down the street here. And seriously, people would wait for half a day to get gyoza from Minmin Gyoza. Other competitors came and opened up shops, but nobody had the brand recognition and been on TV as much as the Minmin Gyoza places.

00:50:37 John Daub: I'm going to tell you a secret. You can actually get Minmin Gyoza at Utsunomiya station. It's the same thing. So you don't have to wait in the line. Just saying inside of Utsunomiya station, there's a gyoza place where you can get a lot of different foods from this area. You don't actually have to come to the main restaurant to eat it. But everybody says it's a little bit better if you eat it at the main restaurant. Everybody says that. I think everybody is kind of crazy. I think it's the same. I don't think that they make it inferior because it's not the head office. And I'm pretty sure that the owner no longer works there anymore. I'm pretty sure that he's made a pile of money and moved on to greater things. They've been around forever. They also have another shop in Kanuma, which is another city just down the street from Utsunomiya, which is quite large. You can drive your car into there.

00:51:50 John Daub: All right. Let's see the shrine. Are you happy now? Raymond said, the stream title says gyoza. It does. I showed you the gyoza shops. Doesn't that count? I don't find anything around here to eat that's gyoza-like. I might have to eat it. I'm literally starving. I haven't eaten anything all day. I've been hanging out in a rice paddy.

00:53:06 John Daub: We are now on the climb. Here. Now I'm back. Cannot you see me? This is a hike. Halfway there. Halfway there. This is Futaarayama Jinja. I wish drones are legal in the city. I could just fly the drone up to the top.

00:54:19 John Daub: I'm looking for five yen coin. Here, I'll give a 50. Take my hat off. Ichi. Nii. Clap. Pray. I'm going to pray for all of you for safety for the next couple of months as the world starts to get vaccinated slowly. I do wish all of you are doing well, not just health-wise, but also work-wise. I know it's been really tough for a lot of people. This is here, the sake barrels. These companies here in Tochigi will donate the sake here for rituals. And there are... that the shrine will present them here and show you the ones that have been presented as gifts. Yeah, sake is the drink of Japan. It's a nihonshu (Japanese rice wine), which means Japan's drink. Wow, I haven't done that in 20-some years. Come here to the shrine to give a prayer.

00:56:14 John Daub: Alright, looks like I'm gonna be eating gyoza on the Shinkansen back home. This is like a roller coaster, like when you get to the top of the coaster and you're about to go down except instead of going down real fast you go down real slow and that's not good. Alright, just do it one step at a time. Good old-fashioned legs in the age of drones, come on. Some of the shrines have escalators. You never see those when you need them. Dan, you can't slide. You get demolished by this thing at the end and probably somebody would come out and it's not respectful.

00:57:22 John Daub: Alright, there you have it. What a wonderful, wonderful day and despite the fact that I spent the last like two hours in a field just filming the Shinkansen once because I messed up and had to change batteries waiting for this. I even had a schedule and it came early. Hayabusa was fast ahead of schedule, which is weird, but you've gotten a chance to see the gyoza. Not just the gyoza, but the gyoza itself. I'm not gonna lie, I was just at the shop, but I'm now showing you the gyoza just for Raymond and everybody else on the side of a bus. Alright, there you go. They've basically been teasing me with dumplings the entire hour and there you go. One last look at dumplings on the side of a bus.

00:58:32 John Daub: So I'm gonna get back on my bike, ride to the station and jump on the Shinkansen and go home. Kanae Daub's waiting. I'm gonna bring her back some gyoza. We have an anniversary tonight. If I can recharge this battery real quick, maybe I'll do a behind-the-scenes gyoza. That's what I'll do. Okay. Alright. I'll try to get some gyoza for the Shinkansen and I will buy it at the station. And if you're a traveler or an insider or a Patreon supporter, I'll share the link on Patreon. And on a YouTube members, so then you'll get a chance to see the gyoza.

00:59:13 John Daub: That's the best I can do, folks. I'm starving and I gotta get home. We're losing the sunlight. Uh, I'm not that happy. I need gyoza. I might even just take a quick look in the Don Quixote because they said they have gyoza in there. I don't know. I see that pigeon is gone. I wonder where it went. Alright. Thanks, everybody. I hope you enjoyed this one hour with me. Thanks for hanging out. It's going to be a pretty good evening. I'm going to bring back some good food for the missus and I appreciate all the support. Thanks so much for the wonderful wishes on the anniversary. I really appreciate. I saw that going by. I'll have another live stream for you but maybe on the Shinkansen if you're a traveler and uh I'll see you back in Tokyo tomorrow. I believe I'm gonna have to get back on the Shinkansen. I have five days to use this pass. I'm on the JR East Rail Pass Tohoku area and I got three more days but I gotta get these background drone shots. Today was just such a beautiful day such a beautiful day for the drone shots because look at the sky just a little bit of wind it's absolutely perfect. I think I did get the shots. I'll share with you some of the shots I took on Instagram a little bit later and the Discord server. See everybody. Have a good day. If you have gyoza eat it don't tell me about it I don't want to know I'm hungry bye.

Related Episodes