Only in Japan Go — Transcripts
Summaries + full diarized transcripts
2022-09-07 · Ep 1263 · 43m

Hakodate Morning Market and Seaside Streets

Hokkaidomorning marketseafoodstreet foodtravel vlog
Summary

Hakodate Morning Market and Seaside Streets

Overview

John Daub and his friend Peter von Gomm explore the historic port city of Hakodate in Hokkaido. Starting early at the Hakodate Morning Market, they enjoy a fresh seafood breakfast at Donburi Yokocho before walking through the market streets. They observe the changes in the market since the pandemic, noting the closure of some family-run shops, including a favorite of John's from a previous visit.

The pair walk along the seaside towards the iconic Red Brick Warehouses, encountering local wildlife (including Toby the crow) and discussing the city's unique Western-influenced architecture. They visit a particularly beautiful Starbucks located inside a renovated warehouse, enjoying coffee with a view of the bay. The episode concludes with plans for a motorcycle trip to a tidal onsen, highlighting the compact and walkable nature of Hakodate.

Highlights

  • 00:00:00 John introduces the Hakodate Morning Market and their breakfast spot.
  • 00:01:25 A massive live crab is shown, priced as "priceless."
  • 00:03:57 They discover a giant gachapon (capsule toy) vending machine with high-value prizes.
  • 00:07:17 John shares sad news about a former shop owner, Abuyasan, closing due to the pandemic.
  • 00:13:06 Toby the crow makes an appearance and famously "drops a deuce."
  • 00:19:54 Discussion on how tourism changes affect local family businesses.
  • 00:24:50 They spot the creepy/clown-themed Lucky Pierrot burger chain building.
  • 00:26:09 Arrival at the stunning Starbucks inside the Red Brick Warehouses.
  • 00:33:20 John admits to licking a cinnamon roll to prevent Peter from eating it.
  • 00:35:51 Details on the motorcycles they will use for the next leg of their trip.

Timeline / Chapters

  • 00:00:00 Intro at Hakodate Morning Market entrance.
  • 00:01:00 Breakfast review at Donburi Yokocho.
  • 00:03:40 Exploring market shops and gachapon machine.
  • 00:07:00 Discussion on pandemic impact on local shops.
  • 00:10:00 Walking towards the seaside and Red Brick Warehouses.
  • 00:13:00 Encounter with Toby the crow.
  • 00:18:00 Views of La Vista Hotel and port area.
  • 00:24:00 Red Brick Warehouses and Lucky Pierrot.
  • 00:26:00 Starbucks visit and coffee tasting.
  • 00:35:00 Motorcycle trip preview and wrap up.

Japan Travel Tips

  • Visit Early: The Hakodate Morning Market opens around 6:00 AM. Arriving early ensures the freshest seafood and fewer crowds.
  • Seafood Bowls: Try kaisendon (seafood rice bowl) at Donburi Yokocho. Scallop (hotate) and salmon roe (ikura) are highly recommended.
  • Unique Cafes: The Starbucks inside the Red Brick Warehouses is considered one of the most beautiful in Japan; visit for the architecture and sea view.
  • Local Burgers: Lucky Pierrot is a Hakodate-only burger chain with distinctive clown branding; worth trying for a unique local experience.
  • Transport: Hakodate is compact and walkable. Renting a bicycle or using the city tram is convenient, though motorcycles offer freedom for surrounding areas.
  • Accommodation: JR Inn Hakodate is convenient for station access, while La Vista Hakodate Bay offers premium amenities like a rooftop onsen.

Japanese Language & Culture Notes

  • Donburi (丼): A rice bowl dish. In Hakodate, this usually refers to seafood topped over rice.
  • Kaisendon (海鮮丼): A specific type of donburi featuring assorted raw seafood.
  • Odori Gui (踊り食い): "Dancing food," referring to eating seafood (like squid) while it is still moving. Peter expresses discomfort with this practice.
  • Gachapon (ガチャポン): Capsule toy vending machines. The market featured a high-stakes version with electronics as prizes.
  • Riyou Shoushou (領収書): A business receipt. Starbucks staff stamped the receipt with a company seal for John's records.
  • Onsen (温泉): Hot spring bath. John mentions visiting a tidal onsen later in the trip.

Food & Drink Guide

  • Ikura Don (イクラ丼): Salmon roe over rice. John had this at Donburi Yokocho. 00:00:19
  • Hotate Don (ホタテ丼): Scallop over rice. John praised the freshness. 00:00:19
  • Live Crab: Massive crab seen in a tank, noted as "priceless." 00:01:25
  • Uni (ウニ): Sea urchin, available as a topping for rice bowls. 00:02:43
  • Coffee: Drip coffee and seasonal drinks (Marron Cassis) at Starbucks. 00:28:50
  • Cinnamon Roll: Purchased at Starbucks; subject of a joke about licking it. 00:33:16
  • Lucky Pierrot Burgers: Mentioned as a local specialty with clown branding. 00:24:50

People

  • John Daub: Host. Enthusiastic about food and local culture. Returning to Hakodate after several years.
  • Peter von Gomm: Guest. Friend of John and fellow podcaster (Homicide Inc). Provides commentary and humor.
  • Toby (crow): A local crow encountered on the seaside walk. Known for dropping droppings on signs.
  • Abuyasan: Former shop owner at the Morning Market. Mentioned as having closed his shop due to the pandemic and personal loss.
  • Nicholas: A Kickstarter backer mentioned by John who encouraged them to spend money on the gachapon machine (which they didn't do).
  • Staff: Starbucks employees who assisted with orders and receipts.

Key Takeaways

  • The pandemic significantly impacted small family businesses in Hakodate's Morning Market, with some closing permanently.
  • Hakodate offers a unique blend of Japanese and Western architecture, particularly in the Motomachi and Red Brick Warehouse areas.
  • The city is compact enough to explore on foot, but surrounding attractions like onsens may require transport.
  • Local chains like Lucky Pierrot and unique cafes like the Red Brick Starbucks are key cultural landmarks.

Notable Quotes

  • 00:01:29 Peter von Gomm: "They don't have a price. It's priceless."
  • 00:05:07 Peter von Gomm: "Curl up with your pet squid."
  • 00:13:22 John Daub: "Toby, he's going to drop a deuce, dude."
  • 00:19:37 John Daub: "I think it's kind of um it's a little bit more generic and cleaned up and looks like a theme park a little bit too much."
  • 00:34:33 John Daub: "Kids, if you don't want your friends to steal your food, lick it."

Related Topics

  • Hokkaido Travel Guide
  • Japanese Morning Markets
  • Motorcycle Touring in Japan
  • Historic Architecture in Hakodate
  • Japanese Coffee Culture

Search Tags

#only-in-japan-go #hakodate #hokkaido #morning-market #seafood #donburi #starbucks #lucky-pierrot #red-brick-warehouses #motorcycle-travel #john-daub #peter-von-gomm #travel-vlog #japan-travel #onsen #crow #toby


Full Transcript

00:00:00 John Daub: Good morning. Welcome to the Hakodate Morning Market and Seaside Walk. That in front of us is the entrance to the morning market. We're going to walk through there and keep going. We're going to take you to what many consider to be the most beautiful Starbucks in Japan.

00:00:19 John Daub: I thought you said the most beautiful partner. Okay, let's get moving here. We had breakfast at the place called Donburi Yokocho. And it was very good. There's a sign for it. You can see that ikura (salmon roe) right there on the top of it. A little pricey. Two people was about $30, 3,500 yen about, right? We both had a set. Yours was ikura and ika (squid). And I had the hotate (scallops), which is scallops, and the ikura, the fish eggs. And those scallops were the best, freshest.

00:01:00 Peter von Gomm: They look good. I've never had.

00:01:00 John Daub: They have melons here too, which is not seafood. And they're a little pricey, but they say that they're excellent quality melons.

00:01:08 Peter von Gomm: What do you mean it's not seafood?

00:01:10 John Daub: Sea? Well, it's seafood if it's by the sea. Look at this massive crab here. Peter was playing with him earlier. Show them what happened to your finger.

00:01:20 Peter von Gomm: Yeah. Well, it's almost fainted.

00:01:25 John Daub: I think we didn't even see this. How much is this one?

00:01:29 Peter von Gomm: They don't have a price. It's priceless.

00:01:30 John Daub: Yeah, he is huge though. Somebody's dinners. What if he just reached out and grabbed your camera?

00:01:39 Peter von Gomm: I'd freak out. Look at that mouth on him. Poor guy. At least they give him clean water and he's going to be tasty.

00:01:51 John Daub: The morning market is one of the big attractions of the city of Hakodate. Visiting here, you got to stop here. That Donburi Yokocho. Donburi (rice bowl) is just a bowl with rice in it and they put stuff on top of it. A kaisendon (seafood rice bowl) is... Oh wow. Look at the size of these mothers. There's a fly on there. Wow. That is a big shellfish. They've already chopped it up and put it back inside. One of them is 1,800 yen. Look at these scallops. Those scallops are massive. That's 800 yen for both. That's pretty cheap, I think.

00:02:27 Peter von Gomm: I don't even know how much a scallop would be though.

00:02:31 John Daub: Donburi is basically... You can see the signs for them. Everybody seems to sell them. It's a bowl of rice with a bunch of seafood on top of it. A lot of it is local stuff that is caught right out here. This would be the uni (sea urchin) and crab.

00:02:43 Peter von Gomm: Yeah, the uni and the crab combination.

00:02:46 John Daub: This is the ikura with crab. There's many choices. Yeah, this one seems to have a little bit of everything. What I was so surprised was we were here right when this place opened at 6 o'clock. And people were already lining up to get into some of these donburi restaurants. 6 am.

00:03:01 Peter von Gomm: Well, you want the fresh fish.

00:03:02 John Daub: Yeah, and we had the freshest. Fish does not get fresher over time. So get here early. The place opens up at 6 am. It opens up a little bit earlier, but it's probably a good idea to get here at 6 am. Because if you get here too early, some of the shops, because of the pandemic, close down. So there's not the same vibe.

00:03:22 Peter von Gomm: You said you were here five years ago.

00:03:24 John Daub: I was here five years ago when I was hitchhiking through the morning market. The vibe was much, much more vibrant, different, more touts out. There seemed to be... I don't know. It's just really tame compared to then.

00:03:40 John Daub: Let's walk a little slower through here. They have stuff in English. It looks like they've renovated some of the places. But in here you can buy the seafood. What is that? A vending machine over there?

00:03:57 Peter von Gomm: Yeah, it's a giant gachapon (capsule toy machine).

00:03:59 John Daub: Let's go check it out. I was looking at it earlier. Wow. 3,000 yen. You can hope to win... I'm going to put my mask on. Hope to win... Oh my gosh. I've never seen anything like this. So 3,000 yen. I'm not going to do it, but I'm not a gambler. And I have no place to put this stuff.

00:04:28 Peter von Gomm: Yeah.

00:04:29 John Daub: I guess you put the 3,000 yen in the slot there. Push the button and then one of these will open up.

00:04:35 Peter von Gomm: Well, no, you get a number. A number comes out and then you have to tell the shop staff.

00:04:39 John Daub: Holy crap. Is that a Dyson vacuum cleaner?

00:04:41 Peter von Gomm: Yeah. There's some good ones in here. There's a Nintendo Switch. A, like a Roomba knockoff.

00:04:50 John Daub: I could use a coffee maker too right now because I need a coffee. There's a 1,000 yen one, which is a lot cheaper.

00:04:58 Peter von Gomm: I'm sure it's rigged though.

00:05:00 John Daub: It's probably rigged.

00:05:01 Peter von Gomm: You mean you might not get anything?

00:05:05 John Daub: Look at... I could use a squid pillow.

00:05:07 Peter von Gomm: That's kind of creepy. Squid from this deep sea. Look how big that thing is. Those lonely nights. Curl up with your pet squid.

00:05:15 John Daub: All right, let's get out of here. That's kind of a neat concept.

00:05:18 Peter von Gomm: Nicholas, I got this.

00:05:19 John Daub: I just told you I can't do it. We have zero space, buddy. The first thing I said was, I'm not doing it. Nicholas says, do it. He gets 50 bucks. I was like, I'm not going to do it. We have very little space and we have to get on the motorcycle in about two hours. But I'll tell you what, I might be able to come back here tomorrow and then... I'll do it. How's that? I'm kind of curious now. Thanks, Nicholas. He's a happy guy.

00:06:02 Peter von Gomm: I'm not going to carry around a big squid. All right? You can just tie it around your neck. You can tie it around your neck. Wear it like a backpack. You look so nice on your motorcycle.

00:06:14 John Daub: By the way, Nick, I sent you a couple links for donuts videos.

00:06:20 Peter von Gomm: Oh, right. Yeah, we got that. I think... Where did I send them? There's a dancing massive... Look at that. Look at these big dancing crabs there. That's so big.

00:06:41 John Daub: I'd like to get one of those, Nicholas. They're like spider crabs. Those are huge.

00:06:50 John Daub: So, I have some news, everybody. I filmed here seven years ago and I met a guy named Abuyasan. Abuyasan was down there on the corner. And we found out recently that his wife passed away and because of the COVID crisis, business was so bad. He ended up closing off his shop. It's no longer there. So, I wanted to take Peter to go meet him and see if we could film again, but he's not. His shop's gone.

00:07:17 Peter von Gomm: Yeah, it's unfortunate. It's kind of... Yeah, it was really sad.

00:07:19 John Daub: Story, one of the neighboring guys, I asked him and he gave us the lowdown. Everybody seems to know everybody here. That was kind of bad. He said quite a few shops actually closed since the pandemic.

00:07:30 Peter von Gomm: Yeah, quite a few shops have. And they've sort of reorganized to try to make this stronger. So, that's... So, the services are better. It's a little bit more organized than before.

00:07:44 John Daub: But I was sad to hear about Abuyasan. There's some Google reviews, Peter, from viewers of Only in Japan that went in there after I'd livestreamed going into Abuyasan's shop.

00:07:55 Peter von Gomm: Into Abuyasan's shop? Oh, wow.

00:07:56 John Daub: So, we got a bunch of viewers that went in there writing, I'm here from John Daub's Only in Japan. I saw the livestream. Everybody loved it. He was so friendly and had a very authentic feeling in there. Because it was a family-run business. And, yeah.

00:08:15 John Daub: All right, we got to get to this cafe because we have limited time, Peter. We want to bring you on with us on the trip. But we don't have as much time as we wanted. We want to take you along the seaside here, which is right there.

00:08:32 Peter von Gomm: I want to get one of these rigs. Why don't we do a tour in one of those, John?

00:08:37 John Daub: Well, at the driving school, you could actually study and get one of those licenses. And I could carry you in that scoop. You ride in the scoop. And I'll drive it. What do you think? Can you do that on the highway?

00:08:49 Peter von Gomm: Why not? Sure. Hey, William is planning to come here July 2023.

00:08:53 John Daub: I hope you can. I'm pretty sure you can. That would be cool if somebody could sit in there, lay down... and then you just drive. You bet.

00:09:01 Peter von Gomm: Let's do it. Wow. Let's do it.

00:09:03 John Daub: By the way, look behind you. That's where we stayed last night. The JR Inn.

00:09:07 Peter von Gomm: Yeah. Hey, Arthur's here. Arthur Van Halen.

00:09:10 John Daub: That's the JR Inn. And we stayed there. It's inside of the station. It was nice. We arrived at 10 p.m., kind of tired. We went straight to the hotel. We didn't have to walk very far. It was inside the station. It was about $65 for a very nice room, 16 square meters. But it was a lot more spacious than it looked because of the layout, the way they opened it up. The sink and the toilet and the shower.

00:09:36 Peter von Gomm: Dude, it's a hot tub. It's a haunted mansion.

00:09:41 John Daub: No, it's not. That's the hotel we're staying at tonight. That's the La Vista Hakodate Bay, which has the number one breakfast in Japan. And I have a permit to film it.

00:09:54 Peter von Gomm: I'll believe it when I see it, when I eat it.

00:09:57 John Daub: You will be eating it. You'll be eating it a lot tomorrow morning. That's the beauty of a stretch goal, Peter.

00:10:04 Peter von Gomm: I want to know what this haunted mansion is.

00:10:06 John Daub: Oh, this in front of here? There's a lot of buildings in Hakodate that date back to the Meiji era. They're still around. Most of them look like this. It has a very western style to it. The history of Hakodate is pretty interesting. Let's go to the seaside and walk along the sea. This is where the ferry comes in. This is the ferry port.

00:10:30 Peter von Gomm: No, the Aomori Hakodate Ferry is a little bit further from here. Is it?

00:10:35 John Daub: Yeah. What's this one right over here?

00:10:39 Peter von Gomm: That's a different ferry. Okay, well. It's a ferry.

00:10:42 John Daub: I don't know where it goes, but the Aomori Hakodate Ferry is a little... It's a couple of stations away. Not too far away. We have a beautiful day. There's just a few wispy clouds in it. We're going to be riding on the motorcycle, trying to live stream while we're riding. Peter's got a helmet brace, so we'll be able to get something out on there. And we're riding pretty much straight to an onsen (hot spring) that is controlled by the tides. We don't want to miss it. So we're about one kilometer away from the old brick warehouses. That's where we're heading. I'll show you a little bit of this before we head back. We have to take the postcards from the Kickstarter project to the Hakodate Central Post Office before we get to the motorcycle place. I think we've got plenty of time.

00:11:36 Peter von Gomm: Famous last words. This is the really cool hill here in Hakodate.

00:11:41 John Daub: Oh, yeah. We can take the tram. Or what do you call it? Like the gondola up to the top. That's right. That's where the night view is. They say this is the number one.

00:11:48 Peter von Gomm: Nagasaki might disagree, but the number one city night view is from the top of here on that hill that's coming in.

00:12:00 John Daub: Oh, no, I think it's at the red building, Peter. That's the hotel we're staying in.

00:12:05 Peter von Gomm: Okay. La Vista?

00:12:06 John Daub: Yeah, it's got trees up on the top. It's got a hot spring on the roof. I think we could walk more towards the sea, right?

00:12:18 Peter von Gomm: Hey, Ike is here. Ike is here. Yeah, we did a stream on Peter's channel when we were riding. How did we do that?

00:12:25 John Daub: I have a mount on my helmet, and I'll hook it up. That was so nice. Yeah, let's do that. I will. So stay tuned for that later on. The sea does look nice.

00:12:38 Peter von Gomm: It is chillier here, isn't it? It's a beautiful little port town. I love the pines up in the hills here, the pine trees. When you come in with the ferry from Aomori, you can see this hill from quite a distance. So you know where Hakodate is despite being on the sea.

00:12:56 John Daub: Oh, dude, no. These Hokkaido crows, especially in this area.

00:13:03 Peter von Gomm: He's just sitting there. He's going to poop on that sign.

00:13:06 John Daub: No, he's not. He's in total control. Let's watch him. He's watching us. Wait until he has a cup of coffee. That's one of these Hokkaido crows.

00:13:17 Peter von Gomm: Hey, you know Toby, one of your cousins?

00:13:22 John Daub: Toby (crow), he's going to drop a deuce, dude.

00:13:26 Peter von Gomm: No.

00:13:31 John Daub: Oh, he did it. He did it. Oh, that's good. Oh, that's gross. I told you. He had that look in his eye. He's got a guilty face. Look. Oh, my gosh. You want to go examine it?

00:13:40 Peter von Gomm: No. Oh, that was nasty. He had that look in his eye. You could tell. He's got glint. You can't tell when a bird's going to drop a deuce.

00:13:49 John Daub: I'm a crow whisperer. Why did they say drop a deuce?

00:13:50 Peter von Gomm: I don't know. What is it, two? It sounds like something in the military. You must drop two and go. You can't keep dropping. Give me two. You keep limiting it to two. Give me two. I'll give you two. I'll give you two.

00:14:04 John Daub: I want to find out what this yellow stately home is up here in the base of the hill. Do you see that over there?

00:14:09 Peter von Gomm: Oh, yeah. Megan reminded us, it's a number two. The deuce is two. Yeah. Megan knows. Thanks, Megan. Is it a raven or a crow?

00:14:24 John Daub: It's a toby. That's what I call it.

00:14:30 Peter von Gomm: Cool. It's nice. It's very peaceful here. Hakodate is a city. I think it's the second or third biggest city in Hokkaido. I'm not sure.

00:14:38 John Daub: If Asahikawa is bigger I guess Hakodate is bigger, Sapporo being the biggest city. And this is very western influenced in a way. It's got streetcars. It's got this kind of old San Francisco feel to it maybe. It's a little bit of European, a little bit of old San Francisco.

00:15:01 Peter von Gomm: Yeah, it's got kind of a Scandinavian feel to it. So that house which you didn't show but when we come around the corner here we'll see it's the old Public Hall of Hakodate. Okay, oh that would be a haunted house. No, no, the one the really kind of stately looking. Oh, uh Georgian manor right in front of us you can see the old brick building. The old brick warehouses. Do you see it looks like triangles in the center that's where our destination is.

00:15:39 John Daub: So we're going to try to get there really quickly and then we have to end the stream there because we got a lot of stuff to do. We have all the shout outs, Peter's holding them in his hand. So if you purchase that as an add-on for the Kickstarter coming soon we have a little bit of homework and Satrio yours is the most complicated he wants us to speak in Indonesian like we're trying to translate we're trying to figure it all out. Satrio we'll do our very best buddy it's going to be hard.

00:16:17 Peter von Gomm: Even the Family Mart looks nice here look at it looks like it's made out of wood instead of the usual plastic.

00:16:31 John Daub: When you get to Hokkaido which is one of the four main islands of Japan there's a lot of islands in Japan but there's four main ones every island has its own kind of unique culture its own foods the vending machines the convenience stores when you walk in there they have a very regional type of cuisine or foods or offerings right here they have in the machine special coffees and special drinks Hokkaido only they write just to make sure that you don't forget where you are. Oh now we can see it up there that's the viewpoint right up there.

00:17:24 Peter von Gomm: Yeah the view from night is spectacular down into the city below yeah all the lights and town and I don't particularly want to go up there tonight but is that something you're interested in?

00:17:34 John Daub: No but if we get back in time on the bikes I would like to ride up that hill but you don't want to go the cable car route do you no not necessarily yeah you know what I think I can show the videos from 2017 and then pretend like we went up there does that count well I just announced that so I can't do that now damn darn.

00:18:02 Peter von Gomm: So hotel La Vista Spa & Resorts that's one of the nice places to visit in Hakodate world's best breakfast yeah and there's those huts on this left and the right is the uh the public the hot spring baths so you'll be naked on the roof looking over the city let it all hang out well unfortunately yeah for those down below well for those who are watching which is hopefully nobody because you shouldn't be watching people taking a bath sickos.

00:18:38 John Daub: So this is the fish packing place part of the market I guess not all of it goes to the ichiba (market) that's where I don't know that fish market is kind of touristy don't you think yeah and they're kind of aggressive.

00:18:48 Peter von Gomm: Well the outer markets are kind of aggressive yeah they want you to come in and buy stuff yeah Hakodate suffered big time as a result of the inbound tourism stopping in 2020 and it's been really hard for the people here because a lot of it they had they sort of geared it towards foreign tourists I think there's a lot of English available they have English menus they were ready and then boom when the pandemic hit a lot of people suffered and I think you said 40% of the shops went out of business um there's still a bunch left but it's it's still not it's not the same it's not the same.

00:19:37 John Daub: So it's going to be interesting when tourism does start what do you guys think of Hakodate's morning market I think it's kind of um it's a little bit more generic and cleaned up and looks like a theme park a little bit too much.

00:19:54 Peter von Gomm: I don't know when you start losing family businesses and you have opening up the chains you kind of lose that uh that feeling a little bit yeah that's the hotel yeah and check it out I didn't realize but the base of it is the original warehouse they built the hotel in the center of it so that's pretty cool.

00:20:15 John Daub: Yeah like it's been a little bit more chic than I've ever seen. La Vista baby that's what we're saying oh you can smell the ocean air do you smell that I smell something smells like seafood yeah we'll look right next to us it's a processing seafood oh yeah they're taking the stuff from the sea and munching it up in the ebi katsu (shrimp cutlet).

00:20:32 John Daub: This is a really neat area of Hakodate. Similar to Otaru.

00:20:39 Peter von Gomm: Yeah, Otaru's got a very similar vibe.

00:20:42 John Daub: This bridge here, Kanae and I have a picture jumping on the bridge. Remember, you try to freeze frame it on the top when you jump. They have the best manhole covers in Japan. Manhole! The dancing happy squids of Hakodate. I cannot complain. Squid, because Hakodate is quite famous for the squid. The areas that they fish in. You have maguro (tuna) down in the straits at a certain time between Oma, Aomori and Hakodate. Mostly Aomori fishermen through there, but some from Hokkaido here.

00:21:26 Peter von Gomm: Oh, excuse me. Can you see up there between those two buildings?

00:21:30 John Daub: Which two? Between the two buildings. It's kind of a red roofed, the yellow building.

00:21:37 Peter von Gomm: That's the town hall, original town hall. See it up there? Oh, yeah. Right there.

00:21:41 John Daub: That's the original Hakodate town hall, the yellow one. Interesting. Yeah. I wish we had more time to kick around this town.

00:21:51 Peter von Gomm: I will not be eating dancing squid. That's the one thing that does make me cringe.

00:21:56 John Daub: Live squid?

00:21:57 Peter von Gomm: Yeah, they cook it and it dances on the fire. I just feel bad. I don't know. It's just torture yaki. I don't know what they call it.

00:22:07 John Daub: I think Wakayama is a place where you can eat squid. I think Wakayama is a place where they do, they still do that, but it's a cultural thing. Something odori gui (dancing food), you're eating stuff that's still moving. Yeah. Nantoka nigiri (live sushi?). Nigiri? I can't remember. I'll check. I'll write the word for it.

00:22:29 Peter von Gomm: Yeah. It's nice here. Beautiful. It's still not really open.

00:22:44 John Daub: Wow. Last time I was here was 2017, hitchhike trip. Spent two nights here recharging my jets.

00:22:52 Peter von Gomm: Space boat. There's no space boat. There's no space boat here. Over there. That's not a space boat. It's got a boat. It's just a boat.

00:23:02 John Daub: I can name it whatever I want.

00:23:04 Peter von Gomm: You can and no one's going to like it. No one's going to agree with you. Just because you have... Would you just take a dump over on the other side? How can you tell a crow apart? He looks guilty. What do you think? He's going to drop a deuce?

00:23:24 John Daub: This guy doesn't have it in him yet. He doesn't have it in him yet?

00:23:28 Peter von Gomm: No. Really? No. He's not ready. How do you know it's not the same one?

00:23:31 John Daub: I'm positive. He's younger. He's younger. He's toilet trained, writes in Danish.

00:23:38 Peter von Gomm: I hope so. There's a restroom behind us, sir.

00:23:44 John Daub: This is... There's two shops of interest. In fact, there's lots of shops of interest here. This is a cool area to shop and walk around and stroll. Brick streets. Old brick warehouses. Red brick. Look at the windows, how clean they are. Shiny. There are shops, I believe, in there. Inside there's um I think there might be some uh some seafood places this reminds me of Newport Oregon.

00:24:12 Peter von Gomm: I was just there about 10 days ago the same vibe in this tiny little port town yeah and there's the sea if you if you get um around to the other side of this uh inlet here you can look all the way to Honshu which is a couple hour ferry ride.

00:24:38 John Daub: Now anyone who comes to Hakodate there's two there's a few chains I believe that are Hakodate only this is one of them this hamburger place called Lucky Pierrot. Pierrot means clown I believe yeah in Japanese they call clowns pierrot I believe that's ripped off from French this is their main building Peter yeah.

00:25:01 Peter von Gomm: It's creepy it's you don't like clowns I love burgers but no it's a good burger look at it well look at it it's right there how do you get your mouth around that but it's quite hard you look like a clown when you eat it. By the way the moving food odori gui dancing it's like dancing yeah that opens at night who eats a burger at 9:30 in the morning against jet lag hungry people yeah it is a little creepy why does he have a one star in his eye I don't know clowns I just think it's creepy.

00:25:48 John Daub: There's a vending machine you can get there um what is that clam chowder or yeah I forget Lucky Pierrot Hakodate Lucky Pierrot uh it's a gari which is I guess like a cola lucky okay yeah they have their own drinks.

00:26:09 John Daub: And here's one of the most beautiful Starbuckses in the world it's its own they took one of the old warehouses and turned it into a Starbucks it just opened and uh I'm going to buy Peter a coffee yes you are and we're over the shout outs and prepare for this trip. And then we're going to go back to the hotel double time.

00:26:27 Peter von Gomm: Yes, we are. That's the way things go here.

00:26:31 John Daub: We've got to then put in the postcards and the mail and get to our bikes. Somebody else is filming the inside of it. It is a beautiful Starbucks. The second floor has a balcony that overlooks the sea. Oh, look, they got the chestnut frap. Look at this. The marron cassis. Wow. This is cool. There's another pier over there. Look, they're taking over the town.

00:26:59 Peter von Gomm: Oh, yeah, that's even creepier. That looks like a horror house. Looks like you go in, you don't come out. Clowns, I just don't like clowns.

00:27:13 John Daub: Well, it's obviously working for Hakodate. These clowns are everywhere.

00:27:19 Peter von Gomm: No, I don't. I like burgers. Do people, oh, I want to be a clown. They don't do that anymore. It's like a 1950s thing, right? Yeah. Bozo did that. Yeah. Then that Netflix show came out about Gacy.

00:27:33 John Daub: Was he a clown?

00:27:34 Peter von Gomm: He was a serial killer that dressed as a clown. Oh, gosh.

00:27:38 John Daub: That's Peter's channel, Homicide Inc. Check it out. True crime that passes the test of time, Homicide Inc. Get it wherever you get your podcasts.

00:27:48 Peter von Gomm: Yeah, it's trending on Apple, isn't it? Amazon. Amazon podcasts. Trending on Amazon. It's growing pretty good.

00:27:56 John Daub: All right, we're going to get a coffee in here. I don't know. Should we take you inside? Nicholas, can we spend your money on coffee instead? $50 worth of Lucky Pierrot burgers and coffee. Yeah, can we get Pierrot burgers instead of gachapon? Is that okay? I'm going to buy Kanae and Peter burgers for dinner. All right, let's go. Let's go get something and we can sit down really quickly and then I'll end the live. All right. All right, you guys are still with us for this, okay? All right, inside we go.

00:28:42 Staff: Thank you.

00:28:43 John Daub: Do you want any sweets here?

00:28:48 Peter von Gomm: I'm just going to get a drip.

00:28:50 John Daub: Oh, today? Yes. Oh, today's coffee. Is it a hot and sour?

00:28:56 Staff: Yes.

00:28:57 Peter von Gomm: Then, a tall size.

00:28:59 John Daub: Yes, one tall and one short, please.

00:29:03 Peter von Gomm: I'll bring it home. I'll bring it home. Can I have a drink?

00:29:08 Staff: Yes. Thank you. Thank you.

00:29:22 Staff: Thank you.

00:29:25 Peter von Gomm: I had a chocolate scone yesterday.

00:29:33 John Daub: It's okay, you can have more next time. That was yesterday's scone, so... That's okay. I'll have another one, please.

00:29:43 Peter von Gomm: So I have a story about Starbucks. I will talk over John right now. I was at the Starbucks in Portland, Oregon, inside a store that will be unmentioned. And after going there like three or four times on my trip, I finally had enough. It was filthy. There was garbage all over behind the counter. I don't care. You understand that, right? Yeah, I know. There's garbage all over behind the counter, and it was just in complete disarray and disorganization. So I wrote them a letter to Starbucks, and I complained. Very nice. They needed a kick in the butt. And then they're sending a gift card to apologize. What? Sometimes you've got to do that. What? I had trouble at Starbucks. Oh. Not trouble, but a bad experience. I'll send it to you. It's okay. It's okay. But what I said to them was that I lived in Japan, and you would never ever see things out of place and garbage on the floor. Ah, yes. Especially at a Starbucks. But it's completely out of line.

00:31:07 John Daub: You want to go upstairs?

00:31:10 Peter von Gomm: Sure. And this is the outdoor balcony up there.

00:31:27 Staff: Ah, yes. I'll write it down. Here. Yeah, they stamped the receipts. If it's a riyou shoushou (business receipt), which is a receipt used for business, and they put the company seal on it. Yes. Thank you very much. Thank you. Come on. Thank you very much.

00:31:53 John Daub: Let's take this upstairs. It looks like they're filming something here. Thank you. Come on. Look, they used like this amazing wood, too. It's a very old, heavy wood. And you can, when you step on it, you can feel, right, this wood. It creaks.

00:32:19 Peter von Gomm: It is a very nice worn wood, I think, just maybe recycled from one of the buildings or something. Yeah, this is warehouse flooring. Yeah. Really cool spot. Let's go sit outside here.

00:32:30 John Daub: Nice spot. Can we just skip the motorcycle ride?

00:32:45 Peter von Gomm: You just want to stay at Starbucks? Come on.

00:32:56 John Daub: Nicholas says do it. All right, Nicholas, you got it. Thanks, buddy. I love the lights, too, these old gas-looking lights here.

00:33:16 Peter von Gomm: Hey, that's my cinnamon roll. You're like, I don't want it. Just give me a bite. It just smelled so good.

00:33:20 John Daub: Well, why didn't you get one? It made my mind change. It was on sale.

00:33:24 Peter von Gomm: It was on sale? Yeah, did you alcohol your hands? Because I saw you touching yourself. You didn't even use your shibori (wet towel), and you manhandled my cinnamon roll.

00:33:39 John Daub: I should take all of it, huh? Hey, no. Well, you didn't complain. Why didn't... That's more than enough. That's half. Besides, you didn't pay for it. Nick did. Thank you, Nicholas. Oh, gosh. You've got to wait 28 days for that to come through. But thank you, Nicholas.

00:34:05 John Daub: Yeah, so we don't have a lot of time. We have to be at the motorcycle place before 10 to set up, and we have a tide to meet. The tide, if it goes out, we can't go in the onsen.

00:34:15 Peter von Gomm: Right. Right? It's kind of weird like that.

00:34:17 John Daub: The camera hog, you going to share it? Thank you. Thank you. Do you have anything you want to say? Final comments?

00:34:23 Peter von Gomm: It's a wonderfully delicious cinnamon roll. Thank you. Oh, gosh. That's all you're getting.

00:34:33 John Daub: There, I licked it. I'm going to a beautiful little town. Kids, if you don't want your friends to steal your food, lick it. Lick the whole thing. Anyway... Anybody who takes it, they really like you. Right. All right, Don't lick it. Don't lick your food. I'm just kidding, kids. Don't lick your food. And don't announce that you're licking your food. Do it secretly so then when they do eat it, it's nice and moist. If you do, you'll wind up in that Lucky Pierrot overnight after the shop closes. You didn't know I licked it before you ate it, did you? I licked it. It's good coffee. Great atmosphere.

00:35:28 Peter von Gomm: Horrible company. Who does that? Good cinnamon roll. Would anyone admit it? That they lick their food so no one will take it? Yeah, come on. You have to lick each individual french fry.

00:35:39 John Daub: All right. Let's get back to the beautiful sights where we are and the wonderful ride we're going to have ahead of us. So, we have two new bikes for today. I'm going to take the camera now.

00:35:51 Peter von Gomm: All right. I'll share because I'm a bigger person than you. See? I'm bigger than you. Look at how small John looks in comparison. Talk about the trip. So, we got two different motorcycles for this trip. I'm going to be on the Yamaha XSR 900, which is a naked. And as I mentioned last night, I will be fully clothed, but the bike is naked. John will be on a CB 400, which was what he trained on at, what was the name of that motorcycle school you went to?

00:36:25 John Daub: Koyama Training.

00:36:29 Peter von Gomm: And so, he'll be on that and he will keep it upright. He's promised me. You want this? Is that the one you licked?

00:36:36 John Daub: No, it's the skin, the outside. Oh, thank you. Why? You only want the inside?

00:36:40 Peter von Gomm: Yeah. The part that's safe from your licking. So, we will be getting those in an hour and a half. So, we don't have a whole lot of time and we will get on them and head for that onsen. I'm really excited about that. That's going to be really cool. Have you actually been there before?

00:36:55 John Daub: No, I haven't been to this side of Hokkaido. It's going to be pretty neat too. Yeah. When you come to Hakodate, usually you don't leave the city because the city is the attraction, but maybe you should. So. I'm kind of curious about it.

00:37:09 Peter von Gomm: You don't have to hold it. I'm just trying to show them how small you are. You're like holding it like this. Yeah. This is how I said to the camera. To make you look smaller than you already are. I've seen like people on like BBC on interviews. This is how they light up their camera.

00:37:21 John Daub: Great. Hi, everybody. Oh, hi, Angela. Nice to see you again. Good morning to everybody. It's like, you're supposed to have it like this. Okay. Okay. Right. Thank you, maestro. I try. This is his master class. No, it's not. No, it's not. I did do a BBC World interview for the Olympics. They called me up and I was pretty nervous because it's like the main BBC World on TV, right? Like, on the line now we have John Daub. They could see me through Skype, I think. But I couldn't see them. So, they didn't tell me they wouldn't be able to see the reporter. They weren't wearing any clothes? I don't know. I can't even confirm or deny that. And I didn't even see a copy of it. So, I don't know what it was like. But I had to adjust really quickly. I couldn't say, sorry, Angela, I can't see you, so I can't do this interview. I don't know if she's laughing or her demeanor. So, it's harder. But you did end up doing it. I ended up doing it, but it wasn't what I thought because the fixer didn't tell me that you won't have a feed. Because I've had interviews on TV where I had a live feed of the reporter from the camera. But BBC didn't do that. And I don't know. It came out okay. But I think it was not thinking as clearly. Because I was kind of trying to decipher why can't I see them.

00:38:40 Peter von Gomm: Did you use your British accent so they'd understand you? No, I did. Greetings. This is how my grandmother talked to me. Did they call you John Daub? My grandmother was English. And she's no longer here, but she would speak to me in a very thick accent. Jason. Hi, Jason. It's Sashabooty. Are you? Don Juan. Your grandmother was from England?

00:39:16 John Daub: Yeah. She emigrated in 19, in the teens, 100 and something years ago. What? Did she lick food like you do? I guess so. So other people wouldn't get it? She made these minced meat pies. Oh, yum. When I was a kid, I thought it had meat in it. So, I didn't eat them until I was like a teenager because I didn't think, I don't want to have a meat pie. But I learned that it wasn't real meat. I guess they were just teasing me. What's in it then? It's like apples and raisins or something. Oh, okay, okay. I don't know why they call it minced meat pie.

00:39:54 Peter von Gomm: How about blood pudding? I don't know if we had that. We had giblet gravy. I'd rather have blood pudding. All sorts of neat English foods. We never had a Sunday roast though. I think that's a very English thing. Sunday roasts are awesome. I love bangers and mash. Pigs in a blanket? Yeah. That's just a great one. Bangers and mash. Bangers and mash, mate. We won't be able to find that here.

00:40:26 John Daub: All right, everybody. We're going to have to wrap these. Haggis, I think, is a Scottish dish. Scotland up there. That was good. When I was in Scotland, I had it. But I think it was a tourist haggis. That's like brains or something, isn't it? I don't know what it is. But they shove it all in the stomach and cook that. It's good though. It's good. Good Lord, man. A couple of beers, man. A bottle of scotch. No pun intended. Gosh. Neeps and tatties. It's in peso. I can't. Don't clarify. Yeah, we don't need to know what that is. This is breakfast time.

00:41:00 Peter von Gomm: This is sort of the main area. So you can walk, as you saw very quickly from JR Station to, you know, Hakodate to this Starbucks here. This is sort of the main thing. And you can even keep on walking up to the top of the station. So you can walk up to the top of the hill there. That's not that far away. So what makes Hakodate kind of a cool city is it's quite compact and you can get around quickly. Rent a bicycle might be the best way to do it, but we're renting motorcycles. So we will see you in maybe a few hours.

00:41:31 John Daub: Yeah, we'll get the bikes before long and we'll try to do a live stream from the bikes. Where? Probably maybe halfway through or maybe when we get to the... Yeah, after the bath or maybe at the bath. Yeah. We'll see you then. Probably like, what is that? Like 1, 12 or 1 lunchtime. Yeah, get it. It's... We're getting it in an hour and 20 minutes. So we got to get cooking. I know we got to get out of here in 10 minutes. Got to go to the post office. All right, everybody. We got to go to the post office. We're sending the postcards from Hakodate. Hundreds of them. Hundreds of them. Thank you for backing that Kickstarter project. We're here for that. There's three Tomys. Oh my God. Give them some of your licked cinnamon roll. Ooh. Oh, my God. Oh, my God. They're having dog fights. Should I give them a cinnamon roll? Will that appease them? Should we run? Should we run? It doesn't make sense. It doesn't make sense. Dog fight. Dog fight. All right, everybody. We'll see you in a couple of hours. Bye.

00:42:50 John Daub: Enjoy the view of Hakodate through... This is the view we actually see through this great... Something just went under. Was that a seal?

00:42:58 Peter von Gomm: It's a cormorant, I believe. Re-enacting Top Gun.

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