Staying Atop a Tokyo Mountain Village Mount Mitake
Staying Atop a Tokyo Mountain Village Mount Mitake
Overview
In this episode, John Daub escapes the urban sprawl of Tokyo to discover something remarkable: a mountain village sitting atop Mount Mitake, right here in the capital prefecture. Just 90 minutes from Shinjuku, accessible only by a scenic cable car ride, lies a world of misty forests, traditional wooden architecture, and breathtaking autumn foliage. John brings along his wife Kanae and son Leo for a family retreat at Komodori Sanso, a traditional shukubo (shrine lodging) that offers private hot spring baths, heated kotatsu tables, and views that make you forget you're still in Tokyo.
The episode explores the unique experience of staying in a Shinto shrine lodging—a rarity, since most shukubo are Buddhist temples. John showcases the room, the hiking trails, a nearby waterfall, and the remarkable geography that keeps this village hidden among the peaks. With fog rolling through the autumn-colored trees and the city far below, this is old Japan existing within one of the world's largest metropolises.
Highlights
- 00:00:02 The stunning morning view from Komodori Sanso, with Tokyo's urban sprawl hidden beneath a sea of fog
- 00:01:05 Introduction to the Mitake Tozan Railway cable car—the only way to reach the summit by vehicle
- 00:01:35 The 20-minute hike from cable car station to the village, showcasing the steep but manageable terrain
- 00:03:08 A detailed tour of their traditional Japanese room featuring a kotatsu heated table and private outdoor seating areas
- 00:04:10 The comfortable bed setup—actual beds rather than futons on tatami—and the traditional Japanese house aesthetic
- 00:04:41 Explanation of the private onsen bath system, including the kashikiri (reserved private bath) option for guests with tattoos
- 00:05:20 A map overview explaining exactly where Mount Mitake sits within Tokyo Prefecture—literally in the mountains west of the city
- 00:07:24 Reflections on the remarkable fact that a whole village exists atop a mountain, hidden from view
- 00:08:26 Discussion of shukubo traditions, Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, and how this Shinto shrine lodging differs from the norm
- 00:09:31 John's philosophical observation about how most Tokyo tourists miss this side of the city entirely
Timeline / Chapters
00:00 – Introduction & Morning Views John introduces the shukubo lodging at Mount Mitake, showcasing the stunning fog-covered view of Tokyo below and the autumn foliage surrounding the property.
01:05 – The Journey Up: Mitake Tozan Railway Explanation of the cable car system, operated by Keio, that is the only vehicle access to the summit. John notes the prohibition of cars and the importance of hiking or the cable car.
01:35 – The Hike from Cable Car to Village A time-lapse walk showing the entire 20-minute journey from the cable car station to the mountain village, including the initial downhill and then steep uphill sections.
02:38 – Autumn Foliage & Mist John describes the seasonal beauty as fog creeps up through the trees, commenting on this being his last view of autumn colors for a while.
03:08 – Room Tour: Komodori Sanso Detailed tour of their premium room featuring the kotatsu heated table, comfortable beds, private outdoor seating areas, traditional Japanese architecture, and the room's amenities.
04:41 – Private Bath System John explains the bathing arrangements: private baths available by reservation (kashikiri), making it ideal for guests with tattoos who might be excluded from public hot springs.
05:20 – Geography Lesson: Where Is This? Using a map, John shows viewers exactly where Mount Mitake sits within Tokyo Prefecture—western mountains beyond the urban core, with Okutama nearby.
06:53 – The Mystery of the Mountain Village John ponders how and why a village came to exist atop a mountain, noting it seems hidden among the peaks and is not easily visible on maps.
07:56 – Hiking & Waterfall Brief mention of nearby hiking trails, a waterfall accessible in 30-40 minutes, a famous rock garden, and lookout points—all close to their lodging.
08:59 – Family Moment with Leo Kanae and Leo make a brief appearance; Leo is shy but clearly enjoying the peaceful atmosphere.
09:31 – Tokyo's Overlooked Wilderness John reflects on how 99% of Tokyo visitors never discover this side of the city, staying in western Japan instead, and urges viewers to explore Tokyo's own mountains and islands.
10:33 – Shukubo & Shojin Ryori Culture John explains that shukubo are typically Buddhist temple lodgings serving vegetarian cuisine, but this Shinto shrine offers a different experience with fish and meat.
12:11 – The Best Room & Morning Atmosphere John confirms this is the premier room at Komodori Sanso, noting the peaceful morning with light rain, birdsong, and fog still surrounding the property.
12:46 – Getting Here: Transport Options Practical travel information: 90 minutes from Shinjuku by car, Chuo Line accessible, buses to cable car station, and the option to hike from the train station.
14:29 – Morning Routine & Hot Bath John and Kanae's playful locked-door moment, followed by preparing for their post-breakfast hot bath before departing.
15:38 – Closing John thanks viewers, mentions the monthly postcard (a shot of Kiyomizu-dera), and says goodbye.
Japan Travel Tips
- Getting There: Drive from Shinjuku takes approximately 90 minutes. Alternatively, take the Chuo Line to Mitake Station, then a bus to the cable car station. The Mitake Tozan Railway cable car operates from the base to the summit.
- Best Time to Visit: Early November captures peak autumn foliage in the mountains. Weather can be unpredictable—fog and light rain are common, adding to the atmosphere.
- What to Expect: No cars are allowed at the summit, creating a peaceful, pedestrian-only village atmosphere. The hike from the cable car station takes about 20 minutes and includes some steep sections.
- Accommodation: Shukubo (shrine lodgings) offer a unique cultural experience. Komodori Sanso provides private baths reserved by time slot, which is excellent for visitors with tattoos.
- Temperature: At elevation, expect temperatures 10°F (5-6°C) cooler than central Tokyo. In early November, conditions range from cool to cold (around 50°F/10°C), requiring just a sweatshirt during the day.
- Hiking: Trails range from easy to challenging. A waterfall is accessible within 30-40 minutes of the village. Sturdy walking shoes are recommended.
- Food: Traditional shukubo typically serve shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), but Komodori Sanso offers fish and meat dishes, accommodating non-vegetarian preferences.
- Permits: If planning to film professionally, note that filming permits are required for certain areas, including Mitake Shrine.
Japanese Language & Culture Notes
- Shukubo (宿坊): Traditionally, a lodging within a Buddhist temple. However, Mount Mitake features a rare Shinto shukubo, where visitors can stay at the shrine. Typically associated with pilgrimage traditions.
- Kotatsu (炬燵): A low table with a heater underneath, covered by a blanket or futon. In winter, it becomes the warm center of a Japanese household where families gather.
- Onsen (温泉): Hot spring baths. At Komodori Sanso, private onsen (kashikiri/貸切) can be reserved for exclusive use by individuals or families.
- Tatami (畳): Woven straw mats that form the traditional Japanese floor covering. However, this room features actual beds rather than futons laid on tatami.
- Shojin Ryori (精進料理): Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, traditionally served at temple lodgings. Emphasizes seasonal vegetables and avoids meat, fish, and strong seasonings.
- Sugi (杉): Japanese cedar, recognizable by its tall, straight trunk. Common in Japanese forests and often used in traditional construction.
- Kashikiri (貸切): Literally "rental private," referring to a bath or room reserved exclusively for one party, not shared with others.
- Okutama (奥多摩): The westernmost region of Tokyo Prefecture, known for its mountains, rivers, and natural hot springs.
Food & Drink Guide
- Shojin Ryori (精進料理): Traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, typically served at shukubo. Features seasonal vegetables prepared with minimal seasoning to honor the ingredients.
- Fish Dishes: At Komodori Sanso, non-vegetarian options are available, including fresh fish prepared in the traditional style.
- Duck Dish: John mentions enjoying duck during his stay, confirming that this Shinto shukubo differs from typical Buddhist temple lodgings.
- Japanese Beer: John mentions having a glass of beer with dinner, poured for filming purposes before sharing with his crew.
Note: Full dinner and breakfast details were filmed for the main channel episode, scheduled to release later.
People
- John Daub: Host and narrator. An American who has lived in Japan for over 30 years, creator of Only in Japan Go. In this episode, he leads viewers through the mountain village experience with his family.
- Kanae Daub: John's Japanese wife. Appears briefly, enjoying the kotatsu warmth and the peaceful morning atmosphere with the family.
- Leo: John and Kanae's son. Makes a shy on-camera appearance, playing in the room and briefly greeting viewers.
- Camera Crew/Assistant: Mentioned briefly; John pours beer for the cameraman during dinner, a gesture of generosity.
Key Takeaways
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Tokyo Has Mountains: Most visitors never realize that Tokyo Prefecture contains extensive mountain wilderness. Mount Mitake sits just 90 minutes from central Tokyo, offering a complete change of scenery without leaving the prefecture.
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No Cars, More Peace: The car-free summit creates a uniquely tranquil atmosphere. The only options are the cable car or a challenging hike—no vehicles disturb the mountain village.
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Private Baths for Tattooed Guests: Unlike many traditional accommodations, Komodori Sanso offers reserved private baths (kashikiri), making it accessible for travelers who might be excluded from public onsen.
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Shinto Shukubo Are Rare: While temple lodgings (Buddhist shukubo) are well-known, Shinto shrine lodgings are uncommon. This creates a distinct cultural experience.
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Off the Guidebook Path: John emphasizes that this side of Tokyo—its mountains and islands—remains largely undiscovered by international tourists who follow popular routes to Nagano, Nagoya, Hiroshima, and Kyoto.
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Old Japan Exists in Modern Tokyo: The mountain village feels like stepping back in time, yet it's all within the boundaries of one of the world's largest metropolitan areas.
Notable Quotes
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00:00:03 "Unbelievably, this is Tokyo. This is a shukubo, which is... a religious place where you can stay for."
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00:01:05 "You gotta take a cable car to get to the top here... And that's the great thing about this place. There's no cars up here."
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00:05:20 "You realize how amazing this place is until you see where we are... There's Tokyo. That box right there. There's the city on the right side and we're on the left in the zone."
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00:06:53 "Most people aren't going to build their town... It almost looks hidden. Like you can't see it on a map because of all the other mountains around it. But when you come down there, there it is."
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00:09:31 "Of all the tourists that visit Tokyo, 99% of them will never find their way up here or to this side of Tokyo... You can find culture and history right here in Tokyo. You don't even have to leave the prefecture."
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00:10:33 "I wanted to get out of Tokyo and I ended up staying in Tokyo... Sometimes a retreat or getting away, you end up not going as far as you thought, but also finding some sort of a paradise that is not as far as you thought."
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00:12:11 "This is essentially old Japan, and it feels it. But having a place to stay that's as beautiful and clean as this is really amazing."
Related Topics
- Only in Japan Go: Traditional Ryokan stays
- Only in Japan Go: Tokyo's hidden destinations
- Only in Japan Go: Hiking and nature in Japan
- Only in Japan Go: Shukubo and temple lodging experiences
- Only in Japan Go: Autumn foliage (koyo) in Japan
- Only in Japan Go: Okutama and western Tokyo exploration
Search Tags
#only-in-japan-go #mount-mitake #tokyo-mountains #shukubo #komadori-sanso #autumn-foliage #tokyo-off-the-beaten-path #hiking-tokyo #kotatsu #mitake-tozan-railway #tokyo-ryokan #traditional-japan #tokyo-shrine #onsen #japanese-mountain-village #okutama #tokyo-nature #tokyo-travel #koyo #autumn-in-japan
Full Transcript
00:00:02 John Daub: Good morning. Welcome to Tokyo. Unbelievably, this is Tokyo. This is a shukubo, which is a... Actually, it's a shrine, not a temple, but it's... It's a religious place where you can stay for. And with this amazing view, this is the morning. It seems like all of Tokyo is underneath a layer of fog today. But we're okay. We're above the rain. That's Tokyo down there. Well, and this is actually Tokyo here too.
00:00:33 John Daub: But the leaves have changed. We're at elevation. We're on the top. We're literally at the top of a mountain. And I'm going to take you inside the room and show you this really beautiful traditional place. Good morning, everybody. I'm here filming a main channel episode, so I don't have a lot of time. I gotta get out there and film some of the beauty of this place. But it's pretty crazy. I found out about this place about a year ago.
00:01:05 John Daub: It's Mount Mitake. This is like on the top of a mountain. You gotta take a cable car to get to the top here. The temperature today is relatively... It's cool, but it's not cold, you know. This is the cable cart. Let me pull this up here. You have to take this cable car, the Mitake Tozan Railway, which I believe is... Which rail line company is Keio. So you got to take this at the top, you can't drive a car.
00:01:35 John Daub: You can hike to the top, but you can't drive. And that's the great thing about this place. There's no cars up here. So everybody comes in by this cable car. And after you get from the cable car, you have to hike all the way to the hotel or the village. I made a little time lapse for you to share. You can check this out. This is the entire walk of Mitake. From the cable car station all the way to the village.
00:02:06 John Daub: It takes about 20 minutes. It goes downhill at first, and then you start going uphill fairly steeply right about here. And yeah, right here it's pretty steep. But when you get to the top and you can see there are a lot of people, mostly Japanese here. This is where I get to the Shukubo or the... I keep saying temple, but it's really a shrine. So it was pretty cool walk up here. And they said it was going to be rain on the...
00:02:38 John Daub: On the weather forecast. But I'm kind of pleasantly satisfied with the steam. It's really satisfying to see it just... It's starting to creep up now into the trees. Look at that. Soon it'll envelop all of this area, I think. So this is the last time I'm really going to see the autumn foliage. Probably for a little while, at least with this colors, before it moves away.
00:03:08 John Daub: The fog adds mood. It sure does, Jason. This is maybe one of the better rooms in the place. Some of the average rooms are a little bit smaller, but this has two places to sit outside, drink coffee, kind of take in the view. I like this. This place is Komodori Sanso. The link is in the description. It's quite popular. So what we have here is mama and son at the kotatsu. The kotatsu is the center of Japanese rooms in the winter, late fall, early spring. You can see it's got this red glow because there's... There's heat going on down there. There's Kanae's feet staying toasty warm. And it becomes the center of the Japanese house.
00:03:39 John Daub: Oh, look, they found... We bought this at the cable car station too. It's a model. The train goes up and down, so the cable car pulls its pulls one to the other. That's kind of cool. The beds are very comfortable. It's different, right? They weren't laid out like on a tatami. They're actual beds. And there's three of them. Leo had his own, which is kind of nice. But I like this. You're staying basically in an old traditional Japanese house. That's the feeling. You get it just by looking at the roof. Look at this. It's really beautiful and clean. We haven't turned on that TV at all. There's no reason to when you're out here, but it's nice to have it.
00:04:41 John Daub: Refrigerator, some mats to sit down on the floor. And we have our own private bath. I... I guess it's an onsen. I'm not sure. But it's kind of neat to have your own private bath. So if you have tattoos, you don't have to worry about it. But the public bath is kashikiri or private... Private or rental, so you have to reserve a time. So I don't think it's an issue. If you have tattoos, you can stay here because you schedule the time to go into the bath, and only you and your family get to use one of the two baths that are here.
00:05:20 John Daub: They're quite large. I'm gonna make this for the main channel video, but you'll see it. You'll see it there. But I thought it would be kind of neat to share the room and the experience of staying in a... A top of mountain. Let me show you the map really quickly. I don't think you guys can... You realize how amazing this place is until you see where we are. So Tokyo is one of Tokyo, Japan's 47 prefectures. You can see it's that... That box right there. There's the city on the right side and we're on the left in the zone. And you can see Tokyo's got urban area and it's got mountains to the... The west. And that's where we are right now. You see Okutama is going to come up here. So this is from Tachikawa, which is like the end end of that urban area. There's Okutama up there. And we're at Mitake, which is more in the center.
00:06:22 John Daub: It's pretty deep. I don't think it's... It's that high up, but it's... It seems like maybe like 1500 meters or so. Maybe more... Definitely higher than the Sky Tree. So we're... Now you understand we're literally on the top of a mountain. There's a village on the top of a mountain in Tokyo. It's just so amazing. And I'm trying to get this story kind of understanding today. How'd this happen? Why did they build the town?
00:06:53 John Daub: Most people aren't going to build their town... It almost looks hidden. Like you can't see it on a map because of all the other mountains around it. But when you come down there, there it is. There's a village up here. So I'm going to try to get the... The story and understand how this temple town, this town was built on the top of a mountain and why it's not easy to live up here. Some people live up here all the time. You got take that cable car you can... There's a road for locals, but you can see down on the river. That's where humanity is down there. It's a lot easier than being up here. But some of the views... I went hiking outside, the trails are pretty... Some of them are challenging, some of them are not. But getting around is definitely interesting. You see these... I think this is Sugi that these trees that are standing up so straight.
00:07:56 John Daub: It's really a nice way to take a look at a different way to look at the city of Tokyo. And again, this is in Tokyo. I think I did this as an Instagram reels yesterday. So you can see we found a waterfall which was about... It's only 30 minute... 30 or 40 minute hike from the Shukubo, the Japanese inn that we're at so very close by and you can go to this waterfall. There's a rock garden that's quite famous. A couple of lookout points. There's some restaurants. But the food here is really good. I filmed that from the main channel episode, so you get a chance to see the... Some of the food probably in an episode. I think this might not drop till next year because we're working with others on it. But you can see how the kotatsu is quite... It's a place where you stay warm in a cold Japanese house and becomes the center of the room, which is really cool.
00:08:59 John Daub: You want to say hello? Hi to everybody. What are you doing? What are you doing? Nice. Are you hungry? No. He's not that hungry. He feels shy after he says this. Hello. Hi. It's very... It's very peaceful. So I wanted to get out of Tokyo and I ended up staying in Tokyo. Sometimes a retreat or getting away, you end up not going as... As far as you thought, but also finding some sort of a paradise that is not as far as you thought.
00:09:31 John Daub: It's really interesting. And I would say like, of all the tourists that visit Tokyo, 99% of them will never find their way up here or to this side of Tokyo. Most people follow the guidebooks. They go out to, you know, and they're beautiful places. In Nagano, up and to Hoku, you're going down to Hiroshima, to Kyoto. But you can find culture and history right here in Tokyo. You don't even have to leave the prefecture.
00:10:02 John Daub: And with the Mount and with the... The islands that Tokyo has going out into the Pacific. There's just so much just right here that sometimes we take for granted. I think we do take for granted. And you can see the steam is really starting to come up now. Oh no, it looks like it's gone down. There's a light rain falling in the... In the woods around. Temperature is like typical October, even though it's November. It's like, I don't know, maybe 10 degrees, 50, 50 in the 50s Fahrenheit. It's relatively warm actually, when I think about it. You don't need a jacket yet. I'm okay with just a sweatshirt and a button down.
00:10:33 John Daub: But the food here and a shukubo, which is a Buddhist temple typically. I'm going to ask him about it because this is a Shinto shukubo. I'd never heard of that before. But the food is typically all vegetarian because in Buddhist cuisine you don't eat any meat. But here we had some fish... Spider web... We had some fish. We had some duck. I'm not sure. I think it was duck. It was a little bit different. And that's not a bad thing because I like to eat meat. And so this shukubo worked out pretty good for me. But typically at a Buddhist shukubo, there's no meat involved. So Shukubo... Stay tuned. I'm going to find out more about it right now.
00:11:38 John Daub: The Nightbot writes in here the temperature, but that's accurate for Tokyo city down there. We're up at elevation, so it's going to be probably 10 degrees colder than that Fahrenheit are probably like 49 to 55 somewhere in that range, but it's certainly colder. Cooler, I should say. And that's the main house. So we're kind of like... We enter in through this gate and we kind of come down all the way here to this very special place.
00:12:11 John Daub: This is certainly... This is maybe... This is certainly the best room. Let's just put it like that. This is the best room here. No wind for sure. Ronald, wait. If you listen, you can hear the birds too. Hold on. Hear the... You can hear the... The light rain as well, falling. I'm hoping that it stays like this for the rest of the trip because we got to go up to the Mitake Shrine and film up there. The thing is, we had to get permits for everything here for filming, so it should be... It should be a really good main channel episode.
00:12:46 John Daub: We drove here from Shinjuku. It took 90 minutes. 90 minutes from Tokyo. You can... Sorry, you can... You can drive here. I would recommend driving because a lot of places aren't as accessible by train. The populations in this area are a lot smaller, so there's not a lot of reason to have a lot of trains. But the Chuo Line does run out here going towards Okutama, I believe, but stops at Mitake and a couple of other stations. You could... You could literally walk from... From the station to here. There's not a lot of traffic, but a lot of people just take the bus to the cable car station and then get to the top and then you can hike around this area.
00:13:22 John Daub: This area is really good for... Yeah, it looks exact. Ronald, you're right. It's... This is essentially old Japan, and it feels it. But having a place to stay that's as beautiful and clean as this is really amazing.
00:13:54 John Daub: They have... Oh, Kanae. We're locked in. We're locked in. How do I open this door? Yeah, I'm locked in. I don't know. We can't get out. Who locked the door last night? It's off. The door is off. Oh, the door is off. I don't know. Probably me. I think you pushed last night. I better fix it. You drunk? No, I didn't drink. I had one glass of beer at the dinner. I don't drink that much. I did it mostly for the video so I could pour the beer and then I gave the beer to the... To the cameraman into the assistant, which is nice. I don't drink that much at all anymore.
00:14:29 John Daub: All right. Yeah. You got heaters in the room, so you're going to stay warm. Two of them over there. And then you got the kotatsu, and we got the hot bath. Check this. So if you're just joining us, we have a hot bath here. Actually, this is a hot bath waiting for us after our breakfast. We're going to reheat it a little bit and then take a quick bath before we get out of here.
00:15:04 John Daub: Yeah. This month's postcard. Thanks, Jason, for sharing the link. Is Kiyomizu-dera. This is a nice shot in autumn from, wow, many years ago. But that'll be this month's card. So there you go. Thanks for joining the postcard club.
00:15:38 John Daub: All right, guys. Everybody, I'll see you from another episode. Maybe we'll... We'll see you later on today, Matane. That's one way to do it. All right, bye, guys. If you have any questions, you can leave them down in the comments below. I'm always happy to see what you guys are up to. Hey, Ranjit. Hey, guys. Bye. Bye. Bye. Bye. Bye. Bye. Bye. Bye.